Metal or Carbon Resistors - Which is better?

@larryi @sns 

You’re both spot on and get my dilemma. No matter what I choose, it’s going to be a bit of tradeoff, resolution and precision vs. romance and presence. 

Sometimes the right choice isn’t about specs, it’s about what makes the music feel right. 

“For some passive linestages, the resistors are almost the whole game—they have a few switches/selector, and attenuation means a stepped attenuator or relay switching of different combination of resistors.  The right choice is important.”

+1, @larryi 
Exactly. I am trying to see if I can keep the signal (from TT) with minimal coloration. This is my 2nd attempt to access and possibly keep a 300B amps in my system. First attempt was a complete disappointment disaster (please don’t ask about the amp manufacturer). The plan is to audition few well designed 300B amps before settling on the ‘one’ that highlights the true virtues of 300B valve known for! 

The passive pre under consideration is a simple circuit, zero flash, all substance. How good it sounds, only time will tell.  

Here’s what I know about passive pre design, a passive volume and balance control using a 23-step rotary attenuator. The signal path passes through only two fixed resistors at any volume setting, minimizing degradation. Gold-point, double-contact rotary switches (the kind used in industrial test gear) are used for both volume and the 3-position input selector. 
 

@grannyring  - PM sent! 

@larryi 

Appreciate the thoughtful take and advice. I wouldn’t be here if I didn’t keep an open mind :-) 

All of those recommended other than Metal or Carbon resistors, appreciate your input. Unfortunately, manufacturer only offers metal or carbon resistor option. I am keeping my options open but all bets are off if I stumble across a Shindo Monbrison or Masseto from the Ken Shindo era. There’s just something undeniably special about Ken’s designs…the harmonic richness, the pacing, the soul.

A 300B amplifier can sound dynamic if it has a properly designed driver circuit. The 300B tube is much more difficult to drive than 2a3, 45 and px25.
@alexberger 

Agreed with your assessment. A 300B amp can sound very dynamic, but it all comes down to the driver circuit design (that’s where my last amp failed to deliver despite of more than one revision). The 300B requires significantly more drive than 2A3, 45, or even PX25, and if the circuit can’t deliver sufficient voltage swing with low distortion, the amp can end up sounding soft, distorted or underwhelming. 

A well-designed driver stage especially one with strong current delivery and proper impedance matching makes a world of difference. I’ve heard 300B amps with properly executed driver circuits that were anything but polite…fast, vivid, and emotionally gripping.

I wonder if anyone heard this amp, 

https://fezzaudio.com/en/produkt/fezz-mira-ceti-300b-evolution/