From previous threads, your room is basically a small cube (10x9x10) which, to put it kindly, is a tough acoustic environment. You should get professional help and guidance. It will probably be more cost effective than hit or miss internet forum advice.
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Soffit traps, from GIK Acousitcs, you can run them on all 4 sides of your ceiling.
However, two tips:
1. Place your speakers asymmetrically
2. Get an EQ.
Since you have bass traps, controlling the room nodes is going to be a lot easier with an EQ, you are no longer in the realm of "impossible" peaks and valleys.
Best,
Erik
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Talk with the gents at GIK. They are pros with this stuff and can save you time and effort with their expertise. They are very helpful.
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It would help considerably if you located the standing waves and reflections in the room using a test tone on a CD or record and a sound pressure meter. Trying to find the ideal locations of multiple tube traps is a lot like trying to solve three simultaneous equations in four unknowns. As fate would have it oftentimes the standing wave one is attempting to address with a tube trap is not located directly in the room corner but say a foot or two away from the corner. |
There are also room resonance calculators/simulators on the 'net. You put your room dimensions into a form, and a three dimensional depiction of where standing waves are produced in the room will be displayed. That is where bass traps should go. An active electronic unit designed to deal with the problem, like the DSPeaker Anti-Mode 2.0 Dual Core, can also be of help. |
Thank you for the post guys and sorry for not being more clear. As @onhwy61 mentioned my room is almost a cube at 10’ l x 9’ w x 9’ h. Note that the back wall behind me is 36" tall, above which the space opens up to my family room and kitchen. Because the room is almost a cube I cannot tell from which dimension the axial mode is coming from.
I know that my Right speakers has peaks at 60/120/180 and since I sit with my back right against the short back wall, I have to believe this is being caused by the length axial mode which has max volume of all the modes at the extremes. What I dont understand is if I want to try to address the length axial mode should the bass trap go directly behind the speaker or on the back wall behind the seating position? Even though the back wall is only 36" tall, it is only about 2" lower than my ear height.
@geoffkait I am not sure I understand what you are suggesting. I measured my room response only from my listening position so isnt this where the wave is?
@erik_squires and @bdp24 I do use EQ with REW. I found that peaks are dealt with effectively with EQ but dips do not improve much. |
Tbooe wrote,
@geoffkait I am not sure I understand what you are suggesting. I measured my room response only from my listening position so isnt this where the wave is?
The wave at your listening position is determined to a large extent by the other waves in the room, waves like reflected waves, standing waves in room corners, standing waves anywhere in the 3D space. Waves interact. It's quite possible to be sitting right in the middle of a standing wave. |
I had great success with room equalization and did it all in the analog realm without spending much money. I had a major issue with boomy bass in a small room last year. I got an XTZ room analyzer Pro and it identified a big room mode at 38hz, suggesting a -22db correction. I attenuated it down about 15db with a McIntosh MQ 107 equalizer and the boomy bass issue was completely gone. One of the most immediate and dramatic changes to my system ever. I think the digital room EQ devices work well too but the analog equalizer I got is from the 1980s and was very inexpensive. Would be worth a try.
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Contact GIK acoustics for help, and you may need to place your speakers like they were 2 subs. What I mean is, you may need to place 1 speaker, and then look for the best location for the second. Use a mic to find the locations that have the worst nulls and try to put the second speaker there. :)
Best,
Erik
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tboooe, the reason eq doesn't help with the dips is because they are "nulls", the rooms dimensions creating frequency cancellations that no amount of eq can correct for---an infinitely deep hole at null frequencies. The only way to deal with nulls is to move the speakers around, the find a location where the nulls are shallowest. |
Thank you guys for the reply.
This weekend I did some experiments with some extra GIK panels I had..
I put a 244 panel on the ground next to the speaker, a 244 on a Softfit bass trap at the first reflection point, and the Softfit was laid horizontally on the ground against the side wall at the midpoint. The interesting thing is I got better results with just the two 244 panels (removing the SoftFit on the ground) except for a deep null at 160hz which the Softfit on the ground seemed to do a much better job improving it by over 11db! I am wondering if using Monster Traps on the side would be better instead of my 244s and the Softfit on the ground. I guess only one way to find out and buy some! |
Remember the soffits can be hung up where the walls meet the ceilings as well. :)
Reflection points don't work all that much for < 100 Hz where the worst issues will occur.
Also, with enough bass traps, EQ can become effective with nulls. :)
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Thank you @erik_squires What I am realizing (at least in my room), is the floor to wall interaction has a bigger impact in terms of bass than the vertical room corners as is traditionally mentioned. I am thinking about getting the 12" x 48" Monster Bass Trap and laying that horizontally on the floor. Then placing my 244 panel on it so it is at the appropriate height to deal with the reflections.
Based on what I am hearing, I will definitely need to think about adding some traps at the ceiling/wall corners too. One small issue for me is that I have crown molding so I need to find a way around that. |
I'd ask GIK For advice. :)
But soffit traps ton't have to be exactly in the corners to work. With museum hangars, you may even be able to use the crown moldings to hang the traps from. They're like S hooks which slide above the moulding. Depends on exactly what kind of moulding. :)
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