How to repair bottom diaphragm connection of Eminent Technology LFT8 planar speakers

Thermally conductive is different to electrically conductive🤦‍♂️

If I'm seeing what I'm seeing, the middle contact doesn't just hit the END of the trace. LOOK close it touches the trace on both sides too.

I'm wondering if the insulation was stripped away or added. I'd be looking and either re insulate or clean before your repair. I don't see a problem as long as the traces don't tough where they're not suppose to and DO where they did before..

Way to many great glues for that to ever come apart and if you did want to take it back apart glue it with silicone. At least that won't come apart and adds great vibration and heat control.. Silicone is good stuff.

High temp silicone is conductive clear is not.. Not all silicones are pure.

I would like to try repairing the connection first to see if this works.

Should work fine with the conductive paint as there's no movement there, different story if it was on the middle of the panel where's there lots of movement
I fixed some ML ESL's with the same problem using the conductive paint worked fine never gave any trouble after that.

Cheers George

         "I ordered a conductivity pen with silver ink which looks similar to the items shown above."

          "So I will need multiple layers to build up the connection to touch the bottoms of the 6 screw posts."

           The products mentioned above have a much higher viscosity (they're thicker) than conductive ink or paint.    Then: there's the fact that epoxies are manufactured for binding things together (adhesion).

            A small dab, on each contact point would do the trick

            Personally: I'd use pieces of 3M #06383* (or something thinner), to hold things together.

            Not much of an investment, far as an experiment, before springing for a new panel.

            *https://www.amazon.com/3M-Automotive-Acrylic-Attachment-Black/dp/B000P18N76

           

    

By the way, nice loudspeaker! An overlooked little gem. Only a little more $ than the Maggie 1.7i, and imo quite a bit better.

Some good ideas, but nothing worked for me like a new diaphragm. The fact that it’s a midrange and has a relatively low crossover with a lot of vibration, the repair I made became intermittent again. Good luck and hope it works. Keep the volume as low as possible to reduce the severity of vibration until the glue has cured for a week.

These are great ideas. Thank you!  I ordered a conductivity pen with silver ink which looks similar to the items shown above.  However, you will see in the pictures that there is tape covering up the trace printed on the diaphragm, so I think I  need to remove part of tape to expose the silver trace to allow the silver ink to connect to it. 
 
Also, there is no solder connecting the trace to the bottom of the screw posts on the terminal board.  It looks like the screw posts just manually touched the trace with no solder between them. So I will need multiple layers to build up the connection to touch the bottoms of the 6 screw posts. 
I emailed Bruce Thigpen and he said to replace the entire diaphragm at a cost of $250 per speaker. I would like to try repairing the connection first to see if this works.

That's great information George and Rodman! I never heard of those products. You probably saved the OP a lot of trouble.

                            Another option:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EPYCIGQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

                            Perhaps, with even better conductivity (more silver):

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Conductive-Conductivity-8331D-14G/dp/B08K3TG5D9/ref=dp_fod_1?pd_...

        Although: if the original connections were soldered; that would be my first choice, for a repair.

         Desolder the six through-holes, move the contact strip a millimeter or two further up on the diaphragm, to ensure a good contact patch on the (voice coil) traces and resolder through the holes.

cgaudio 
Thanks. Here is the link to the pictures of the terminal post that came off.

https://systems.audiogon.com/systems/9679

No soldering on this,  use car demister paint which is conductive to make the 3 x contacts again, then wrap some sort of stretchy tape around it all to hold it all in place.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/164396540391?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-...

Cheers George

Why not send the pics to Bruce Thigpen at Eminent Technology? Don't worry, he's a real nice fella.

Thanks.  Here is the link to the pictures of the terminal post that came off.

https://systems.audiogon.com/systems/9679

I'm not sure how to attach pictures to this post to show it

Go to Virtual Systems page, use the "Create System" to upload photos.
https://systems.audiogon.com/