Do you have them on Spiked feet???? |
More power would be great. 200 watts per channel or more. Spikes are essential too. |
I would try them closer against the wall, see what happens. Woofers need break in because of the new surrounds. Last, maybe a higher current amp (passive bi amp). |
Try either a more powerful amp or bi-amping. However, I would recommend bi-amping and if still not satisfied with the bottom end you could add a sub-woofer. This is the set up with my Snell Type AIIIi speakers. I am using the Kenwood L-07M (150 Watts) for the bottom end, Sound Valves M60 (60 Watts) tube amps for the top end, and Kenwood L-05M (100 Watts) for my Janis W-3 subwoofer. |
Try either a more powerful amp or bi-amping. However, I would recommend bi-amping and if still not satisfied with the bottom end you could add a sub-woofer. This is the set up with my Snell Type AIIIi speakers. I am using the Kenwood L-07M (150 Watts) for the bottom end, Sound Valves M60 (60 Watts) tube amps for the top end, and Kenwood L-05M (100 Watts) for my Janis W-3 subwoofer. Spike also help and vibrapods between the top and bottom unit. |
Lucky guy! I have two pairs of Type A's (AII & AIII). I'm currently running the AII's as the III's need surrounds & I haven't gotten around to it. The AII's had new surrounds about 6 months before I got them (now 5 years back). I don't find the base thick/slow at all. Others have heard them and never suggested any base issues.
My power is a DNA-1(bi-wired). I also run a ACI TitanII sub.
You need more power & some break-in time on the woofers. When I first got mine I ran them for a short time with 60 tube watts..sounded nice, but not enough power. As for placement..I've played around with mine quite a bit and now haven't changed the setup for a couple years. Mine sit on 1.25 inch thick slate slabs that sit on top of carpet(this tightened up things up when I made the change from sittng on carpet). They are tilted in to be face-on with the listening position. One rear corner is about 18-20 inches off the front wall, the other corner is maybe 30 inches?? off the wall??..I'd have to measure(tonight). I'll check the side wall distance also.
My listening position is on a balcony over a great room (no wall behind me, speakers are set up on the long wall of a 13 x 16 foot space). My ears sit on one corner of a 103 inch equilateral triangle...I only discovered this after extensive adjustment until the sound was right..I then measured and 103 inches is where the center of the mids sat from me & from each other...go figure.
I've seen a number of posts that say the speakers should be parallel to the front wall and about a foot off...all the research I've done indcates this isn't the case..for me. The bass gets better with them off the wall a bit..too far and it drops off.
Also..with anything better than an average recording, if you can hear sound localized to the speakers, then you don't have them set up right, yet. Mine disappear into the soundstage with nearly any recording. |
Hey thanks guys for the input. fishboat, I was hoping you chimed in because I knew you had the AIII from your previous posts. Can I ask if you have them on spikes? Thanks for taking the time. |
No spikes yet, maybe I should, but I haven't gotten around to it.
I measured my placement. The room & speaker placement are symmetrical. The inside corner nearest the front wall is 19 inches off the wall. The opposite back corner of the same speaker is 30 inches off the wall. That corner is 24 inches from the side wall.
A few years back I went to a local dealers shop and Richard Vandersteen was there to give a brief discussion on Vandy speakers design, philosophy..etc. After Richard was done my first thought was..yeah...that's what Peter Snell did with the Type A 25-ish years ago. No doubt I live in a small world, but I think the Type A(I, II, III, IIIi) is one of the best deals around. One of these days I'll do the crossover caps...but there's always things higher on the list. I've been toying with the idea of stepping up to a DNA 500, but I haven't been bitten to a point of no return yet. |
Fishboat,
You have a great speaker...Peter Snell was a terrific and prolific designer during his all too short life.
The so called thickness in the bass, if you've heard this (someone else mentioned this) would be virtually eliminated with the use of good spikes.
The cabinets were excellent, and the veneers wonderful as I recall--but nothing helps eliminate unwanted bass overhang and floor trapping beneath the cabinet like spikes.
They will transform.
Plus, I'd like to hear your comments after some crossover upgrades...I can't imagine what caps of this generation, and maybe a better air coil inducter could do.
Great speaker Fishboat.
Larry
(BTW, that's not the 'Bubbagump' shrimping fishboat is it?) |
Yeah the crossover cap upgrade i'm a little nervous about. I have heard both arguments here on the site, Yes do it because the new caps are so much better and no don't because of the famed Peter Snell's way of building the crossover and dialing it in on his lap while listening on the master set. I would like to do it but I don't want to F anything up. Thoughts? |
Larry,
I have a very large bass trap (5 feet high 18 inch deep triangle of 6# rockwool) in each corner just behind each speaker. Possibly this may be helping, but I really haven't noticed any issues with bass. I did notice it tighten up when I set the speakers on the slate slabs. I really should get off my..hindend and get the AIII woofers done. The AIII(12 inch woofer and extra tweeter in the rear) is a fair step up from the AII (10 inch woofer, no rear tweeter). From what I've read, the AIII is the best of the bunch. I just have very little time to work on such things.
And no such luck on the bubbagump boat..as I remember Gump cashed in on his shrimp boat business..I'm sort of on the other end of the stick where the fisn I catch nets out at 20-50 $/#..given the cost of a fishing trip these days.
bb,
I've heard/read the same issues with not messing up what Peter assembled. I'm not an electronic guy by any means, but if I did anything I'd do a one-for-one replacement with the caps & resistors..and probably leave other parts alone. Been a while since I thought about this, but wasn't Peter's tuning done on an inductor?? I think it's "Carl's Speakers..?" that has done work on the crossovers with some success. I looked him up:
http://www.classicloudspeakerservices.com/
|
Barfbag,(sorry I called you Fishboat)
I'm thinking that you can chose high quality caps of the same values and have the same results (with greater resolution, textures, air and space). The method Peter was using, was to dial in different values while listening, nothing more than that as I understand it. He was always employing, as I remember first order crossovers.
Jim Thiel, an old friend and mentor of mine, used to rave about HIS friend Peter and his designs. He was truly a legend.
I'd be comfortable in changing the crossover, just be sure to use caps that you have confidence in, like Auricaps, which I used in the LSA Sig and Statements. Or, better yet, if the budget allows, use Mundorf.
Silver solder would be in order too...others may have better ideas, but this should be reasonably good advice.
Larry |
Hey Thanks Larry, It's nice of you to take the time with your advice. Actually before I get to the crossover upgrade. I need to solve my power problem. I really would like to add a tube amp for just the mids/highs and keep my Mccormack for the low end, but i really don't want to get into external crossovers. Any advice on that? Thanks again |
BB,
You're in to needing an external, adjustable crossover, when selecting different amps. The output sensitivity will invariably be different, creating too much mid/too little bass, and so on.
Externals are NOT a bad thing. This gives you ultimate control.
If you want to discuss...just write me at lrsky@insightbb.com
Larry |
Thanks Larry, If i decide to go that route I would love your input. |
Sure, any help I can give, I'm glad to oblige.
Best,
Larry |
Hi, Larry & Fishboat I know I need more power for these A's but What can you suggest for a good match with my CARY SLP03. One guy I know is all over McIntosh for these. I'd love both your input and once again thanks. |
bb,
Never heard the Cary, I'm partial to McCormack for power.
I honestly don't swap my hardware in and out that much. My money is on music these days. |
Krell, when used in the bass region only is hard to beat.
Since it's only Achilles Heel, IMHO is the mid/upper mid hashiness that I've described ad nauseum on these pages, it seems like a perfect choice.
It's deep, powerful and controls very well, all attributes that the Snells can use.
A used 200wpc Krell would be my first choice, and they're probably readily available.
Good luck,
Larry |
Is there anyone in the Chicagoland area with Snell Type A's? I am considering trying to obtain a pair and would like the opportunity to hear them. I am great guest who can bring the appropriate refreshments. Bob |
Hi! I was hoping to ask Fishboat about his experience with AII's vs AIII's. I used to own AII's and LOVED them. Sold them foolishly to please my wife. Now I have original A's but am thinking about some AIII's. Would you mind contrasting the AII's vs the AIII's for me? I don't want to lose the magic midrange, and can't stand brightness. Might the AIII's be better without violating these two elements? Thanks!
Stuart |
