I use pocket scale from http://www.saveonscales.com/pocket.html to set stylus tracking force sucessfully. These scales have 0.1 gram increments which should be good enough for VTF.
I have a similar one. It works, but the problem is getting the right vertical height to place the scale so it is the same height as a record. Typically I have to place the scale on a block off to the side of the platter, and then place the sytlus on the edge of the scale. This seems to work, but it is a lot more hassle than the dedicated digital stylus force scales. (My friend has one, and it works much easier. I did check that the scales measure weights the same, and they do seem to, more or less.)
If you are looking for a small weight to check the scale, a 1982 through current penny weighs about 2.5 grams. An older (pre 1982) penny weighs about 3.1 grams.
"It works, but the problem is getting the right vertical height to place the scale so it is the same height as a record. I have to place the scale on a block off to the side of the platter, and then place the sytlus on the edge of the scale"
I can take my platter off the spindel. Then I place the scale on a small pad of paper with enough sheets taken off the pad so that the pad plus scale is the same height as the platter plus record. I measure dead-on with where the stylus would be on a record.
Takes about a minute more than the dedicated digital scales and you save at least $100!
I have the Audio One from Audioparts Inc that auctions here on AudiogoN, I have found it to be the easiest of all to use. It is more money that the stock digital scales, but it is much easier to use since it is never necessary to reset the VTA of my tonearm in order to get an accurate reading. The inexpensive digital scales are just to thick to make the process simple and the A1 solves this problem beautifully.
Chris Brady used an electronic jewelry scale with a layover bar to adjust VTF on my arm. The scale had 0.01g incremental gradations and was probably similar to that described above by Elizabeth.
I was very impressed and bought a similar unit, although slightly larger, for $50 with the same sensitivity and tare capability. I couldn't find the model that Chris had gotten for $30.00.
Thanks for all of the responds. I bought the 120 Z model. I tried the scale at different heights by placing it on and off the platter and still got the same weight reading. The VTF should be the same at about +,- 2 inch from the platter height because the scale didn't detect any difference in 0.1 gram sensitivity. You can try different heights to see if the scale detects different weights. This scale design is insensitive to the the height. The shure VTF gage is sensitive to different heights due to its pivot supported and counterweight balanced. The penny weights is a good way to check the scale.
I got my MyWeigh MX-50 from saveonscales also. FWIW, it resolves to .01g and thus does detect VTF changes at different heights. It reveals VTF changes from arm height adjustments.
Does this matter for listening to music? Not a bit. Except for arm/cartridge changes I use my scale about twice a year, to adjust the counterweight for the hot or cold weather VTF range. After that I use my fine VTF adjuster for tuning by ear, which doesn't require a scale.
Another risk with some of these scales is that some models are strongly magnetic. You don't want a cartridge anywhere near that.
The 120 Z model is non magnetic. The VTF differences at various heights are due to the anti skating device. When the height changes, it either pulls the anti skating string or spring up or down hence changes the VTF. The tonearm pivoting should not effect the VFT at various heights.
I like to retract my statement about the VFT at various heights. I use a homemade 14 inch carbon fiber tonearm (measuring from pivot to stylus tip) with Shure type III cartridge. My scale didn't detect the VTF changes when I varied the scale's altitude due to my tonearm high compliancy. The Shure cartridge is relatively forgiving on VTF. I use the scale to ensure the VTF within manufacture's limits then fine tune with listening test. I enjoy inexpesive vintage sound.
I substituted the steel arm tube from an Audio Technica broadcast tonearm with a graphite golf driver shaft. Note the lead strip covering the vertical movement pivot bearings, it acts as a damping device. The anti skating string device works well also. http://www.geocities.com/nghiep16/Vinyl/Arm.jpg http://www.geocities.com/nghiep16/Vinyl/Arm1.jpg http://www.geocities.com/nghiep16/Vinyl/new.jpg
Wow, very resourceful. I'm not sure I understand the bearing concept of the new arm. Is it suspended? Resting on the lead(?) button beneath the arm tube? Or...?
It is suspended by the fishing string which stablelizes the azimuth like in the Well Tempered arm. The ball bearing is glued to the armtube and fitted into the hole of the cylinder (button). This arm employes the same principle as the Shroder Reference tonearm. At first I was impressed with the smooth sound of the "new" arm. When I modified the gimball bearing arm with the graphite arm tube, I really enjoy the sharper image/focus of the gimaball bearing arm design. I also loaded the arm tube with wood chips and silicone jell to damp the long arm tube similar to the fine sands in the Well Temper arm or silicone fluid in other arms.
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