External Linear PSU for Router - Voltage/Amps?


A technical question to aid in my rudimentary understanding of voltage and output.  How do I best match a replacement PSU to the wall wart voltage and amp output of my specific router -  a Netgear Orbi RBR 750 with specs showing 12V , 3.5 A DC ouptut.  I understand the 12V part but when viewing listings ( new/used ), I am finding most are showing amps above 3.5 with varying voltage.  

For instance a Teddy Pardo listing is showing a 15V 2A, and a TeraDak listing is showing 12V with either a 4A or 12A option.  How close to I stay to the V and A in my decision making?   I am looking to simply "clean" upstream a bit and wanted to start with a linear psu thats a reasonable $ amount ( $250 - $400) . Next step will be to add a switch.  Already have a solid ethernet cable ( Network Accoustics ) and streamer ( Aurender N200)  Also any recommendations on specific brands would help me out. 

norust

I added an external linear PSU to my Netgear router, and it was well worth the investment. I opted for a "cheap" one from AliExpress (AUD$400) to see what it would do. It had a major positive impact. 

Now looking to upgrade to an Ediscreation PSU. 

I am very, very happy to see erik_squires posting again.

Thank you for returning here.  Your voice was missed.

Chaz

I should have added:  There was a case, the only one I know of, for a Chord portable DAC, that the device relied on a low amperage to protect the charging rate of the batteries.  IMHO, a bad design choice made against convention.

@erik_squires ​​@sns    Words of wisdom from both of you and many thanks.  I will search for a 12V linear power supply with amp output in the 5-7 range.  

You have voltage correct, voltage must match. Amps listed on component's power supply is generally a minimum of what's needed, so you need lps rated for at least 3.5A, Absolutely no harm in lps supplying over 3.5a, in fact the more the better, helps in keeping heat down on lps because lps working at less than maximum capacity. The 4amp TeraDak would work fine, only issue I have is routers may be working 24/7 drawing higher amps than some other equipment. For max reliability over long term I use lps with higher amp output with my Netgear router, I'd go for 5 to 7 amps output, 12a you're looking at just fine, just spending more money than need to.

Match the voltage, excess Amps is OK.  For instance: 12V, 8 A is just fine.

The reality is a lot of nominally 12V linear supplies may provide slightly elevated voltages when unloaded, so you may read say 13.8V on a multimeter.  That's fine, and even 15V might be OK.

So long as the voltage is reasonable, the Amps drawn will only be what the device needs, so even if you had a 10A supply, the device will still draw < 3.5A.

If you use a power conditioner, keep routers and switches outside of it so they don't pollute the clean side of the power.