@vpi,
You're kidding..right? Although I knew you weren't Harry in disguise, I just figured it was obvious..
Happy Listening!
I was looking on the ET website... no mention of the "aluminum joint" (armwand to spindle) mount. or the long I-beams. Are these items one offs?
I'm starting to get interested again.
I'll contact Bruce if no response in forthcoming.
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Blu-Tack. What I used some time ago on my home brew balsa wood long I-beam. Not as elegant as a machined weight, but works great since it allows you to use just the right amount to balance even the lightest cartridge while putting the weight at the very end of the I-beam.
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@frogman,
Have you been able to make any conclusions regarding the long -beams you mentioned earlier?
Thanks...
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I'll go alone. Thank you.
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@slaw
For some reason, several months back Bruce took out the link to all of the upgrade parts for the ET II. But I think they are all still available. Just email him and he will be very helpful.
In fact if you google ET II magnesium arm or ET II carbon fiber arm you will find pages with them on there. You just can't get there from Bruce's main site.
Harry
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Not sure if your last post was intended for me or not, Slaw. In the event it wasn’t or you still want company:
Well, work being what it is for me this time of year and some relatively expected life/family issues, I’ve had practically no time to “play” with my system, so the two (single and double spring) long I-beams that I received from Bruce are still sitting unused and lonely. My impressions of my home-brew I-beam from a few years back may not be entirely relevant for obvious reasons, but the use of blu-tack should work the same way on the “official” beams. I will certainly respond when I can do some critical listening using them.
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Yes, I know this is an ET II forum but I can't restrain my recent good fortune. A family member just gave me a Garrard 301 for my birthday. It is complete with a Garrard arm. As much as I love my VPI HW 19 (which I will keep and become a two turntable kind'a guy), this is a turntable I have lusted after for nearly 40 years. Since it comes to me at no cost I can spend some $$ on an arm. I know that while Chris is reluctant to admit it, he does have some pivoted arms. Do y'all have any recommendations for an arm for this table. The plinth is not an issue as I will be replacing the original Garrard plinth. Perhaps with a new plinth it would even accommodate an ET II, but I'd like to hear your opinions.
NOSTALGIA
Many years ago there was a high end store in Soutn Dade county, Florida run by a very eccentric owner (I think his name was Larry). He had a 301 mounted in (believe it or not) a huge butcher block. One of those that is a freestanding table that sits in the middle of your kitchen. Not sure what arm he was running, but it was S shaped - probably an SME. I have no recollection of the cartridge he was using but I have a long standing recollection that, at the time (40 years ago), it was the best sounding vinyl I had ever heard.
Harry |
@frogman,
It wasn’t directed at you or anyone.
I look forward to your impressions.
@vpi,
I don’t have any specific recommendations for you. I assume the S-shaped arms are shaped this way to provide more mass that would have complimented the majority of cartridges of that era? I’m envious!
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- Regarding I-beam and weights: I often used BluTak to adjust or increase the counterweight mass to a certain degree and never felt it was compromising the sound in any way. I also form tiny balls of ca. 0.05g (or less) to precisely adjust the VTF in a repeatable way (by putting on and taking them away). For this I measure these balls on a 0.01 precise Mapleshade scale. BluTak is simple & very practical.
- On the website of the Adanalog MG1 arm – which is similar to the ET2 – several of the user images show Lenco drives with new plinths, and I heard very good sounds from a Lenco / Reinders PTP / limestone plinth with an MG1 arm.
In my experience idler wheel or direct drives work very very good for air bearing arms, ie. optimal. (Better in my system than a very good Merrill Heirloom, a medium weight belt / subchassis ET 2 combo).
- I think this has to do with the tendency of a belted subchassis to slightly (counter-) rotate around the platter axis at low subsonic frequencies and the way this continually decenters the air bearing a bit, compromising (to a certain degree) bass quality and others. The very low horizontal resonance of air bearing arms adds to that effect.
A radial arm has the center of its horizontal mass (almost) in the rigidly placed bearing and so the cartridge/arm combo is not displaced by horizontal accelaration (or much, much less). |
@pegasus ,
Your post reminds me of some of the possible adverse affects of a suspended (spring especially) plinth TT used in conjunction with the ET. I believe this was THE major pitfall I encountered through all of my iterations of the HW-19 and all of the upgrades I did to it and my ultimately going in another direction for a while. I do not regret my learning experience one bit.
(In your last post, I noticed you referred to the Mapleshade scale. I’ve used it for years).
I do admit that after watching MF’s Rega factory tour several months back, one (of the many things) that struck me was their development of an extremely accurate scale! I’ve been waiting for it to come to market. Finally, It’s here! I have one on it’s way to me now.
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@slaw: Regarding Mapleshade scale - as much as I like it's precision, it is always drifting slightly (besides the necessity to place the needle at exactly the same spot).Thinking about it, I dream about a solid 5kg linear low noise power supply to feed the scale and to be placed on the subchassis while measuring :-) |
@pegasus ,
I made a mark on it’s center resting plate for my own peace of mind..
Check out the Rega at the Cable Co website... I think you’ll be impressed! It seems that everything about a scales' construction/accuracy has been rethought and addressed.
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Since it comes to me at no cost I can spend some $$ on an arm.
The plinth is not an issue as I will be replacing the original Garrard plinth. Perhaps with a new plinth it would even accommodate an ET II, but I’d like to hear your opinions.
Hi Harry - for some reason, I am reminded of the guy that has an ad in the "For Sale Boat Section"; This guy is offering a free boat, but he wants $1500 for the trailer. The boat needs a new floor and seats. But the engine is ok. Not many people I know, know how to do upholstery. 8^0 A proper idler plinth is $$$$. Unless you have a shop and plinth building skills, unlike a self contained DD unit which leaves many options, there is a learning curve with a idler. He had a 301 mounted in (believe it or not) a huge butcher block." 8^0 One way to deal with those idler vibrations. I went down this path myself years ago Harry. Its exciting but I did not have the time, the shop, to acquire the learning curve. I let someone else do the legwork for me. Jean Nantais. Google him if not familiar with the name and my sample is shown in a few pics on my virtual system. See Pic 10 with the ET II on it. My table has an interesting history. It was JN’s personal table at one point. I bought it off a friend of his. ************ Me thinks Frogman will have competition from Styrk and Harry on the next ET 2.5 auction - 8^0 Happy B Day Harry - my B day is this week as well. ************ Pegasus
On the website of the Adanalog MG1 arm – which is similar to the ET2 Pegasus from what I see the MG1 has a moving manifold. The ET2’s manifold is stationary. Just this difference brings very different design considerations. Apples and Oranges. |
@ct517 the design difference has for shure not escaped me - "interesting differences" indeed!
But in regard of horizontal mass, the degrees of freedom of the air bearing (not the details of bearing tolerance and pressure) and its placement relative to the subchassis and platter, they are very similar. That's the point. And this is relevant regarding suboptimal drive pairings.
It's no accident that VPI and many VPI users have converted their originally suspended chassis towards rigid or semi-rigid subchassis coupling, similar to many of the newer (post 2000?) turntable designs.
This design change seems to be of sonical advantage (in general) already for conventional arms – my experience ist that this is even more true with air bearing arms.Interestingly, if one considers the Trans-Fi design or the Opus 3 Cantus and simlar "short arms", they reduce this sensitivity to rotational modes of a subchassis, because the rotational force on the subchassis pulls more along the arm instead of lateral. |
@slaw @ct0517
Yes, the solid plinths are outrageous. Found a source in Austria that is about half what the US sources get. It will be about a month to get the plinth then it's off to STS turntables in Nashville for refurb.
I decided on an Ortofon TA 110 arm. Please don't excommunicate me. I'm keeping my ET II. If nothing else I can stare at my Garrard with Ortofon while I listen to my VPI with ET II.
@frogman
No competition from me on the next ET II on EBay.......at least for a while.
Cheers,
Harry |
If nothing else I can stare at my Garrard with Ortofon while I listen to my VPI with ET II. If me Harry, I would first put your ET II on the Garrard using the quick install technique I described; then you can hear for yourself what the Garrard (the table itself) brings to the table. Apples to Apples. Anyway, that is what I did with my Jean Nantais Lenco. It actually came with the Dynavector tonearm. Jean Nantais’ preferred tonearm. An impressive, freaky looking thing that Dyna tonearm. He was surprised when I sent him pics of the table with the ET 2.5 on it. hah hah So my JN Lenco table is just sitting there, can be stared at as you say. It doesn’t bother me, not using it, because unlike digital DAC’s and CD players, it holds its value.....these days better than my oil stocks ! So I haven’t sold it off yet. Record players are so in vogue. IMO - What you are doing Harry is a healthy audiophile exercise. I was happy enough with my at the time TNT TT, but My JN Lenco Idler table upped the game in a couple areas and forced me to make improvements to the modded TNT (adding thread), and also my SP10 DD setup (better isolation). So for a time the JN lenco, with the 2nd ETII on it, became a reference point for me. It’s been quite a number of years now . The JN table can be sent to him in Ottawa to have the latest updates made to it, but the delta that exists with the Verdier is just too large, for me, so I have not bothered doing it. |
@ct0517
Thanks for the encouragement Chris.
"What you are doing Harry is a healthy audiophile exercise."
Healthy!? Healthy!? Sure not healthy for my wallet :). But, damn, it's fun. I'm very anxious to get the plinth and have the TT refurbed and mounted.
Of course for a guy with a Verdier cost is no object. Tee Hee.
Cheers,
Harry
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Well no big surprise that I have a alert on ET2 on ebay ;)))))))
but my problem is that I only need the arm (second ))))
no pump
by the way I have a
wise air pump left over more or less new
Moved the air pump up in the loft with tank and 10 m hose down
runs it at 14 psi and the wise pump not able to do that job. so now I use a big ugly and noisy air brush pump. Cant hear it and air stream very stable The long hose help a lot i think.
But thing the micro seiki need to come up first.so all safe for some time ;-)
All part for the test rig ordered.
planing to start disassemble and CLEAN the arm next week.
Any in here with the high mass arm ??
any improvement on 12-10 comp cartridges??
I ended up using all 40g leads on a 10g cartridges and with 2.5 g tracking
the lead mounted on the outside of the I-beam and the rood pointing inwards the I end up mid on the I-beam scale
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shfinne -
I ended up using all 40g leads on a 10g cartridges and with 2.5 g tracking
the lead mounted on the outside of the I-beam and the rood pointing inwards the I end up mid on the I-beam scale. As kids, the teeter totter taught us good physics lessons. Remember trying to ride it with an adult. They had to sit up in front of the seat closer to the midpoint of the beam. It was no fun this way. Even worse when they did sit in the seat, were in control, and were nasty and jumped off quickly, allowing us to fall to the ground fast and hard.The teeter totter is the most fun when both riders are on the end of the seats, same weight.. Option One Start losing the bodies (lead) off the end of the plank, to get to the highest number on the I Beam. This is documented in the manual. This will give your cartridge the highest vertical inertia. Option Two - preferred. Get the new long I beam, and with the help of physics, you will need 1/2 the lead or less, to attain the same result. My XV1 is 12.6 grams. |
vpi - cost is no object. Harry -the vintage Platine Granito is pure machine. Every part has its purpose. There are $25k Garrard setups being sold. How much of that cost - percentage - is in getting that finished furniture/car look on those plinths ? Sorry but could not resist ..... Design is important. But when it comes to TT setups. A well setup less cost TT can out perform a more expensive one that is not set up right. Its not plug and play as we know. But in the end based on my experiences, and in all my hobbies not just this one, the better design has the most potential when done right. |
@ct0517
Chris,
My comment regarding your
Verdier was unadulterated envy. I confess my infatuation with the 301's is in large part visual. Current projections indicate when all said and done I should have less than $2500 in it with total mechanical refurb, very nice solid wood plinth (furniture) and a nearly new arm. The paint on the chassis is nearly mint so no expense for a paint job.
When my project is complete I hope it provides enjoyable listening too.
I suspect I will end up with cartridges that tend more to the vintage sound than my Delos and VDH Black Beauty.. Perhaps even some MM or MI, but the proof will be in the listening.
Harry
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Harry,
I have a London Decca Gold, love that sound. If it's good "old" sound well that can be a way to go ;))))))
Styrk |
From what I understand, the meshing of a London Decca to any tonearm is to be carefully thought through.
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Harry - I don’t get envious, as far as I know, but I do wish my knees were in better shape. If you were closer I would let you borrow it over the summer when I am floating on the water. As long as your space is Kitty Proof. Cats like string.
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Chris,
No cats, no kids, just one medium mongrel and my wife. Wish we were closer too, but I try to be an honest kind of guy and I'm not sure I would trust myself to give it back to you. If closer, I'd be content to just hear it in your room. I'd bring the wine and whiskey.
Cheers,
Harry
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@shfinne
I'll have to look into that London Decca. What table do you have it on?
Harry
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Harry
I used it on a TD125
A bit hard to setup but.. when there, well then something special
yes Slaw since the moment of the needle is direct there is a lot of forces that have to be damped. need high mass tonearm.
Styrk |
Regarding Decca - indeed something special.The energy it puts into an arm through kind of a flimsy structure is challenging. This is predominantly in the vertical axis, which is much stiffer. The recommandation is probably "heavy arm" but maybe in this case mating is easier with more conventional arms. Kind of "low noise" bearing, like WTT or Schröder, or some of the better unipivots. I think the Hadcock worked well (with a bit added mass).With the ET 2, the long beam is probably quite optimal, but the horizontal resonance goes way loooww. And I had strange audible effects from that, kind of "drop outs" in the signal when the horizontal lf resonance was excited. Never saw this with MC cartridges.The fundamental quality is one of extreme agility and superb natural midrange timbre. |
@pegasus, the Decca/London's are also incredibly dynamic. Think The Who with Keith Moon live! I liken the D/L sound in comparison to others as like the difference between a direct-to-disk LP and one pressed from a tape recording. They have that head-spinning SNAP!, that percussive attack, and a live music immediacy, that I have heard from no other cartridge.. For anyone considering a new London, get it with the optional Decapod, which replaces the standard, flimsy, plastic mount. Well worth the extra money. |
@bdp24, the first "HighEnd" (of the 70’s) I heard was my oldest brothers Garrard Zero tt with a Decca London (Grey?) with a top Pioneer integrated amp feeding a pair of recently refurbished Infinity 1001A. I made many cassette tapes from this setup and from my brothers LP collection with music from Portugal and it’s recently "lost" colonies.
All these kept a cracking, mesmerising immediacy over all these dozends of years, besides sometimes a certain upper range "chatter".
The dynamics of the Decca London is what is always written about. But what kind of surprised me, when I reinstalled one, (refurbished by Reto Andreoli of Blue Electric) whas that this quality was even more one of microdynamics, a kind of grainless agility - besides the impact.
Superb dynamics can often be coupled to a certain relentless quality, something that goes at the expense of a heart-touching quality. Not in the case of the Decca London.In which tonearm do or did you listen to a Decca London? |
OMG @pegasus, the Infinity 1001! That was my first pair of what I guess would be considered high end speakers. It’s price in 1971 was $139/ea, at that time about as much as I had the money for. It’s big brother, the 2000A (which contained the then-best tweeter in the world, the RTR Electrostatic, also used by Infinity in their Servo-Static I) was $299/ea, out of my reach. The first Decca cartridge I heard was that of ARC’s Bill Johnson. Bill had flown out to Livermore, California (in his own plane---he was a pilot) to deliver a complete ARC system to his new dealer, Walter Davies. Walter is now known as the developer and owner of the Last Record Care products line, but in the Spring of 1972 had just opened a Hi-Fi shop, Audio Arts. Bill brought an SP-3 pre-amp, D-51 and D-75 power amps, a PC-1 passive x/o, and a pair of Magneplanar Tympani-I loudspeakers, of which ARC was the distributor. Bill also brought his own Thorens TD-125 Mk.2 turntable, a prototype ARC tonearm (which never went into production. It looked similar to the Grado arm of the 50’s/60’s---the arm "tube" a flat piece of what appeared to be walnut), onto which was mounted a Decca Blue. I was a budding audiophile, having just discovered J. Gordon Holt and Stereophile. I listened as Bill and Walter discussed all things hi-fi, and got myself an invaluable education. The sound of that system was to me a revelation! The equipment available to hear in my area (San Jose and neighboring towns) was McIntosh, Dynaco (solid state), and SAE electronics, and Acoustic Research, Rectilinear, and JBL loudspeakers. And of course Bose 901’s. The common cartridges at the time were the Shure V15 and M91e, Stanton 681ee, and various Pickerings, ADC’s etc. I dove into the deep end, getting my own ARC/Maggie/Decca system. I bought myself a Decca Blue, and mounted in on a Decca International arm and Thorens TD-125 Mk.2 table. The DI was at the time considered THE arm for Deccas, but with it learned that I didn’t care for unipivots. So I replaced it with an SME 3009 Series 2 Improved, and though the arm is a beautiful piece of engineering, it proved to be not a particularly good partner for the Decca. Perhaps because of the SME’s knife-edge bearing design? Fast forward many years, after having long ago gotten out of hi-fi. I was now an older, wiser audiophile, and ready to jump back in. I bought myself a Decca Super Gold, and mounted it on a Mayware Formula 4. Yeah, it was a unipivot, but I wanted an arm with silicon damping for the Decca. The cartridge was too much for the Mayware, so I got myself the new Well tempered, and put them on a VPI HW-19. That was more like it! I could have lived that way for years, but then learned of the Townshend Audio Rock Mk.2 Elite, a table particularly well suited for Deccas/Londons (in fact, Max Townshend used the Decca cartridge in his research and development of the Rock). The Well Tempered arm, on the other hand, was not (if you know about the Rock, with it’s trough of damping silicon, you understand why). Off it went, and in went a Rega RB300 with Cardas internal wire. I pretty good setup, but I knew I could do better. Some further research informed me of the Zeta arm, long considered to be one of the couple of best partners for Deccas. And that it is! Nice stiff arm tube, excellent bearings, and a little on the higher end of medium mass arms. The Rock/Zeta/Decca is a real classic, like a Quad 57/25 watt tube or Class A amp combination. It’s getting buried with me! There is a newish arm gaining a reputation amongst Decca/London aficionados, the Trans-Fi Terminator. The arm is a unique, passive air-bearing, linear-tracking design, made in the UK. T-F owner/designer Victor Patacchiola until very recently used the London Reference in his research and development of the arm, just as had Max Townshend with the Rock table. Some Decca/London owners are still using the Eminent Technology air-bearing, linear-tracking arm, too. Robert Levi of Positive Feedback, Decca/London lover and Reference owner, recommends the outstanding Helius Omega arm. The current SME arms have their Decca/London proponents, as well. The common wisdom use to be that the cartridge was best served by a damped unipivot arm, but Grahams do not appear to be popular with Decca/London owners. Here are two Decca/London related facts: 1- The Zesto Andros 1.2 Phono Stage has a mm cartridge impedance switch that includes a position of 15K Ohms, and provides 200pf of capacitance. Both of those figures are recommended by London for their cartridges. At the 2015 HiFi Show in Anaheim I asked Zesto designer/company President George Counnas if, as I suspected, those provisions were specifically for Londons, and he replied yes. 2- The Schitt Mani Phono Preamp offers four levels of gain, 30dB specifically for Deccas/Londons.
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@bdp24 this feels like an opened well or a stream of audio experience opened!
Some of the landmarks I know too: My first acquisition (for my fathers audio system ;-) was a Decca International arm for a Decca, mounted on a TD 124. The self-made arm board was a bit flimsy, and there was always an amount of structure bourne vibration coupled into the cartridge. My Decca arm had a too heavy counterweight, go figure. So this was ca. the scond audio item getting modified...Then the Mayware Fomula IV as its replacement, which ended with a Grado Signature and an "encasing" in BluTak, which was amazing with my hotrodded ARC SP3A. Alternatively I had a quite good Lustre GST1 on a TD 126 (a very low noise, but very boring sounding turntable compared to a Rega 2 or my favoured Walker CJ 55).On the Walker the Formula IV was swapped finally with a Eminent Technology One, ca. 1985 (?), which i replaced with an ET 2 when it came out. The tt was swapped for ca. 4 years for a Merrill Heirloom - my first "last turntable", a very good turntable, though not optimal for the ET2.After that the second "last turntable" was a Well Tempered Signature.Which I re-replaced with an upgrade to the ET 2.5, placed on a considerably modded Technics SL1210. This is my third "last turntable", since ca. 5 years... |
Guys. I managed to snag a Timeter Aridyne 2000 for $200 and only 290 hours on it. Here is a video (not mine) of a 2000 model managing two ventilators.....LOL . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-XrKsjUN_gI can kind of imagine myself (some days) on the end of one of those ... there is two ventilators there...does anyone else need some air ? My Timeter 3000 as those who have been on this thread over the years know, has had what I will call "surgeries" performed on parts of the piping to keep it going. The task of getting through my collection had me a little worried on its long term health. It was an old used pump system when I acquired it many years ago, but it still trumped Jun Air and others I looked at with its engineering and Coalescing filtration system My thanks to @banquo363 for finding this one for me. ****** I showed the video to my wife and told her a similar unit should be arriving Monday. She gave me the "I think you have lost your mind look", until I told her it's for the tonearm downstairs. then she just left the room.....................works for me. |
@ct0517 ,
This reminds me that I need to make a change to aticle two/section 38 of my current (DNR) Do Not Resusitate document in the event of my demise.
Thanks a lot!
Really...how are any of us suppose to compete with that?
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Long I-Beam Lovers
I mentioned a while back I had inquired of Bruce about a lighter base weight. He replied he might make some if there was enough demand. Well, today a cut down base weight arrived from Bruce. Without the bolt it gets me to the extreme end of the long I-Beam. I was already about 1/2 inch from the end. That extra half inch has again improved the bass response and midrange richness. I don't think better customer service exists in the industry.
Harry
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Steve - these Timeters are available online anywhere from $150 - 300 US dollars. And in the USA so you will not be paying the crazy shipping cost, dollar exchange that I paid. They are serious hospital grade 24/7 units that are run to XXXXX hours then I believe just replaced with new units, as their lease, rental comes due. Hence their availability for purchase online from re-sellers, surplus dealers, etc... Ask about the hours if not listed in the ad, but for our hobby use, even 6-8 hours per day - it (high hours) is not of concern. they are $3500 US new.
I did not mean to conjure up thoughts of the "end" in my previous post. I was thinking more along the lines of being "winded". LOL
I am not ready to go yet. But I know it’s not up to me.
Harry - I am using one small weight/no bolt and am at the very end also on the main rig. This is the way it was meant to be. Also to give you an idea how light the 420str cart is - take the small weight Bruce sent you and cut it in half one more time. That is what is needed.
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@ct0517 ,
For the life of me...(did I just write "life"?) I still don't understand why people can't quite get the meaning of my posts?
It was meant to be funny!
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I thought your post was funny. fwiw I have a very dry sense of humor.
What I don't get is how I can run for X kilometers every day, steady heart rate and go for a long time, up inclines and down... ..but if I run up the stairs one time, in the middle of the day, I am going to need that ventilator in the video.......no joke.
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Well,...maybe the Jun-Air could be of more help there...? Hmmm?
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Came into my inbox this morn. $65.00 only 534 hours. If someone is interested just verify with seller that the Timeter compressor runs in the green. The picture of the performance gauge shows red. It was probably just turned on. Pickup from a North Carolina location. |
@ct0517
Elkin, NC is only about 4 hours from me. I know you have discussed this before but I'm too lazy to look for the post. How quiet/noisy is this pump?
I'm still amazed at how such small increments on the I Beam make such a significant difference.
Harry
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Harry
give me your distance from it, and I will measure with my spl meter and post the number in an hour. |
Harry - my timeter 3000 resides in the bowels of our basement in a corner. A lonely place. Every fall when listening season starts, I make my way down there. You know, I can swear I thought I saw a troll down there one year? So I have removed some of the insulation out of mine years ago. It is louder than normal, but this is not a problem due to the distance. If I hold the SPL meter 1 foot away from the box it says 68-70 db. • 10 dB: Normal breathing • 20 dB: Whispering from five feet away • 30 dB: Whispering nearby • 40 dB: Quiet library sounds • 50 dB: Refrigerator • 60 dB: Electric toothbrush • 70 dB: Washing machine • 80 dB: Alarm clock • 90 dB: Subway train • 100 dB: Factory machinery • 110 dB: Car horn • 120 dB: Ambulance siren ********************* Now @banquo363 posted db level using his 2000 Model Timeter
It hasn't been bastardized like mine. from that link 1. in the same room, from 6ft away: 64dB 2. from the other side of the wall, with door closed: 52dB. 3. from my seat ~40ft away, I can't hear it at all. |
Chris,
Thanks for all the info. I'm afraid it would be too noisy for my setup. All my equipment is in a closet at the front of my room but I'd still be only about 15 to 18 ft away. I don't have the luxury of a basement to isolate the noise.
Harry
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Harry - I understand. Something to consider if one has limited space, one floor. These units are highly mobile - like a serving cart as they are on wheels. One fellow I know keeps it covered with a vase/flower on top out of the way. When he uses it he rolls it to a corner room. He has the air tube line attached close to the wall board like the cable TV company line going to this room so his wife does not get upset. Hooks up the air line and plugs it into the AC. Then when done rolls it back out of the way and covers it up again.
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@vpi,
I have my Jun-Air in my bedroom. Of coarse I’m divorced.
As I imagine Jeff Foxworthy might say..."if you’re a real audiophile.. you’ll find a way to....."
I live close enough to Elkin I could drive there, pick it up and feel good at the moment. My concern is, my history with Timeter. Well, my history with their distributors which, on my experience is who one has to deal with. I purchased one of their units...years ago. If I hadn’t paid with my credit card, given the resources the card provided me for recourse, I’d be out my initial product price and no further way to proceed. After around one year of (wrangling), I was sent a repair kit and was made good for any outlay I had incurred. It was a time consuming process and an unnecessary process for any customer with whom, a professional relationship was expected!!!!!!!!!!
Years ago, I had to file a claim through my Visa card. With Timeter’s practices, that do not favor the customer. (I’ll pass). Love my Jun-Air and my Motorguard filter system. Stay away from Timeter!
Your self-described laziness, well,, just doesn’t seem a good fit.
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@vpi,
Don’t know what the decible rating is for the Timeter is, you both are talking about...?
My Jun_Air is around 45dbs.
Pretty damn quiet. Built like a TANK. Find a used one. The are a life-time type of product, for sure!
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Let’s be clear here. i am referencing Timeter ARIDYNE compressors only. No other line. Did you not own a PCS 414 or something along that level ? Correct me if I am wrong as I am going by memory. That line is used for dispensing medical product. Its an Apples and Oranges comparison. Allied Health Care which makes Timeter, manufacturers many compressors for various needs. ******************* Also we are not discussing buying these Aridynes from Allied Health Care or one of their dealers. They are being purchased from surplus dealers, resellers for 5-10% of what they cost new. Its plug and play, no water to collect in a bottle for humid areas, and highly mobile. |
You are most likely correct. This was the direction you pointed me to initially years ago.
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@ct0517 ,
IMO, Going further, you/one should differentiate these important differences before a recommendation? Right?
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