Elrog 300B vs Takatsuki 300B tubes


Has anyone heard the Elrog 300B tubes ? I read an article which mentioned that the Elrog 300B delivers 15% less power than a traditional 300B tubes. Can anyone confirm that it is audible ?

I am choosing between Elrog and Takatsuki 300B tubes. I would prefer the Elrog because it is cheaper and supposedly wonderful but if it really sounds less powerful then I have to rethink.
pani
Calloway, 
I had a borrowed pair of Sophia RP  in my amplifier for several weeks a few years back and they were very good sounding although not as good as the Takatsuki.  So what you write is high praise for the  Psvane W.E. Replica 300b. I use W.E. Replica 101D  my Line Stage and it's a superb sounding tube unquestionably. I've heard their 845 and it was also superb. 
Charles, 
drdavid..i have Psvane WE 845s and 300b tubes and could not be more happy with their performance. sorry about your experience with the Royal Princesses.I used mine for a few years and never had an issue. i still have them as back ups..Anyway....the We's are just superb..
Hi Joe,
I don't hear a difference in sonic character at all and I was really listening intently for any changes. So, none that I have noticed. 

Markus, for a tech this is very simple and straight forward. The resistors are right there and very easy to remove and replace. It took my friend 5 minutes per mono block to complete the job. Fortunately the Frankenstein is easy to work with,ample space and few  parts (very uncluttered ). I used Munford 1.2K ohms/25 watts,  2.50 dollars each(1 resistor per mono block ).
Charles, 
Hi Charles,
Now that you have more hours of listening, did changing the resistor degrade the sound in any way using the EML XLS's, Taks, or Elrog's?

Best,
Joe
charles1dad,

I haven't discussed the cathode resistor change with George but it does sound like a feasable fix. Problem for me would be that in my neck of the woods there aren't any tech's that would understand, unfortunately. I honestly thought that the engineers at Elrog had fixed this problem. It's that old saying about assuming something.  
Markus,
Have you discussed with George the option to change your cathode resistor from the stock 1K ohms to the recommended 1.2K ohms value. They are said to reduce the initial power surge (current) stress on the output tube.  The Elrog engineers believe that this is issue with the Frankenstein amplifier. I've done this modification,  only timewill tell if this is the answer. 
Charles, 
Hello fellow Elrog friends,
I was anxious to try the new Elrog 300B's  in my Frankenstien amps but after reading on this forum about  the failures, I decided to wait awhile until all the bugs were worked out. After the new tubes were reissued, I decided to give them a try. Incredable sound, I now knew what everyone was talking about. Sadly, last night after 184.5 hours on the tubes, one of them dropped out with a bang. There was no system damage but I would be surprised if there was another tube that could sound as good as these Elrogs. I put my Takatsuki's back in and I'm working with George to see what he can do but my 6 month warranty has expired so it's a toss up. Keeping my fingers crossed.  
Hello David, 
It's really good to hear from you. 
I understand you decision regarding the Elrogs, it's a practical conclusion to reach. I love their sound so much I was resolute in giving them another opportunity. I did do the recommended cathode resistor swap (only 5.00  dollars for the required 1 pair) and so far, so good. I can report that the resistors don't alter the sonic character at all to the best of my hearing ability. I've put Synergistic Research Black fuses in the amplifiers with excellent results. 

I've not forgotten your very enthusiastic praise of the Coincident Statement power cables.  Well it appears that the IC and SC are every bit as impressive. I respect your opinion of these products David.
I see that Arthur Salvatore is reviewing the power cables on his website site. I'm  keeping them on my radar for certain. I'm still using and enjoying the older  (6 years ) Coincident power cords. 
Charles, 
Hi charles1dad,
 Boy,it's been a while since I've gone on to Audiogon and checked any discussions as I've been busy listening to  the beautiful sounds of my Coincident system  every free moment I have had between work and family.
Thanks for the shout out about premature tube  failures.
The only tubes that I've had a real problem with have been the  Sophia Royal Princess tubes.  My first pair had a tube blow after four months and it was good that I had the one-year warranty as Sophia promptly replaced that  tube . About three weeks later the other tube  blew  Sophia also replace that too however told me they werent willing to replace any future tube failures again.even if it is still during the one year warranty period   ???
After about another three months there was a dramatic sonic degradation and the tubes were obviously dying. So liking their sound in my system ,  I foolishly bought another pair of Sophia Royal Princess tubes in the hope that they would last longer. No such luck. As a matter of fact one of the tubes blew on start up  taking with it some amplifier components including resistors and voltage regulators. This also occurred after about four months. Sophia replaced both of them ss well and I then sold them on Audiogon. 
 Interestingly enough before I even purchased my first pair Israel had advised me any 300 B is safe to use as a replacement tube  except for certain KR tubes and warned definitely not to use  Sophia tubes.   I guess I am foolish and lucky that. I  didn't have earlier and worse damage happen to my amplifiers which would really have been  a disaster. 
 Israel's explanation which is logical and should make sense   to all, was that modern amps that sound dramatically superior to tube amplifiers of 20 to 30 years ago are designed differently! Including voltage plate differences.  The Sophia's and a few other tube designers are using outdated parameters to make so-called modern tubes  for modern amplifiers. So the incompatibility is pretty obvious  and the resulting tube failure should not be a surprise. Not everything is compatible with everything and at no time do I personally assume  it is  amplifier design issue or limitation, rather an incompatibility issue. ( for if there is a design issue with these amplifiers they're the best dam design issues I have ever  had the pleasure of listening to ! LOL]
 I also had a hiccup  with my Elrogs for the exact same reason as other people have reported and discussed above. I must say  that I was thoroughly impressed with how George Lenz took care of any issues and promptly  replaced my tubes with a newer version. It is so refreshing to see such a stand up  guy and  professional attitude in the audio industry. Kudos to George! After receiving my new pair of Elrogs  I decided to sell them as I was already scarred by my previous experiences with the Sophia failures. 
 I am currently using the latest version of the re released Shuguang  Black bottle 300 B tubes. The price to performance ratio is outstanding. I also enjoy my AVVT 32b SL tubes which are in a very special category. I am contemplating  getting the current release of Psvane  W.E. Replicas  which are supposed to sound outstanding as well as the EML XLS which we all know is a wonderful tube. By the way Charles ,have you tried the new CST statement power cords yet? As you know I've had them for a long time and thought the improvement in sound quality  was  extraordinary at the price.  And when you compare to other brand-name cables they are a mere fraction of the cost of most power cords.
However recently I upgraded my speaker cables and interconnects to the new  Statement series from Extreme Shotgun series. 
Wow wow wow The difference was like changing an amplifier . Yup , not subtle by any stretch.  The transparency immediacy naturalness and harmonic completeness  was  eery and uncanny. I have never ever heard  CST gear sound better. These are already qualities that they excelled at ,  but the cables really took it to the next level I was shocked ,The jaw  dropping kind of  shock "they" talk about. Unquestionably and absolutely highly recommended.
Cheers
David
Bill,
I believe that you'll hear differences from the stock fuses very early on. It may seem amusing given it's a fuse with its thin wire filament  but it does really improve with burn in time. As always Bill I'm interested to know your listening impressions. Once you have it in awhile reverse the fuse direction. They are directional for certain. 
Charles, 
Charles, exactly.  Those fuses are becoming frustratingly difficult for my old eyes to read.  I could not fathom why a pre would take a 7A.  Also, the filament looks pretty thin for a 7A.  I ordered a fuse for the CSL this morning.  Eager to see what all the fuss is about.
One thing for sure, a 1 amp fuse makes far more sense than a 7 amp fuse for a Line Stage. Why would the CSL need a larger fuse than the power amplifier (Frankenstein )that uses a 3 amp rating? 
Charles, 
Hi Bill,
My CSL is an earlier model than yours.  I bought mine new in Oct 2009 and very likely Israel has made changes since then is my guess. 
Charles, 
Bill,
My CSL  has only a single 3 amp slo blo in the rear panel. 7 amps is really a Hugh value. The Frankenstein uses only one 3 amp fuse per mono block. 
Charles, 
Charles,  It looks like the fuse in my CSL is a T7AL, which is a 7A slow blow.  That seems like a lot of current for a preamp.  Is that what you ordered?
Bill,
I don't think that you will regret that purchase. Let me know what you think of it.
Charles, 
Charles, I resent my reply to your PM.  The physical conditioning is coming along, but I'm still not where I want to be.  If I can continue hitting it hard, another couple months and I should be there.
I'm following the fuse thread.  I will probably order a black for the CSL in a week or so.  
Bill,
With the kind of hiking schedule you're following you must really be whipping yourself into seriously good physical fitness. 
Keep it up! 
Hi Bill,
I'm very glad that you are doing so well and indulging in your  hiking passion 😊
No  I didn't get your reply email, I am very interested in your in your thoughts on the two speakers. Bill the SR fuses are something quite special. The many positive comments about them are legit. If you only want to try just one,  put it in the CSL. The Red is excellent but the Black is a step above. They're terrific tweaks for the CSL.
Charles, 
Charles, I did get your email and responded.  Did you not receive it?  Things are going reasonably well here, but I am doing everything I can to get lost in the hills.  Yesterday's hike was 14.4 miles with 3700 ft elevation gain.  Four hikes altogether in the last week. Paradise.   Not getting much listening time in.  2-3 hours a week at best.  I've been following the fuse discussion, and want to hear your thoughts on black vs red, especially in the CSL.  I still have a stock fuse in mine, so this could be a big step forward.  Keep me posted and let me know if I need to resend the PM.

Bill (Brownsfan) I hope all is well with you, haven't heard from you in quite sometime on this forum.  I sent you an email about 2 weeks ago. Don't get lost in the scenic hills of TN.

Charles,

What I am referring to is the filament voltage at turnon and this has little to do with the value of the cathode resistor.  If the filament glows brighter at first and then settles down to "normal" it is being unduly stressed on turnon.  This goes for all directly heated tubes and it just so happens that the thoriated tubes make the situation much more visible due to their quick turnon.

dave
Well, that bodes well for the end results of Charles' cathode resistor modification experiment, which was explicitly suggested to decrease a surge in voltage at power-up.  Hopefully that does indeed fix Elrog reliability problem... I guess we'll know in 6 months.
May it be that the filaments of the Elrogs are very bright after switching on the amp for 2 or 3 seconds and then the brightnes is decreasing within the next about 5 to 10 seconds?

Brightness on turnon that slowly dies down is a sign of overvoltage on turnon and will quickly harm the filament.  This behavior happens in a number of 300B amps and the thoriated filaments light up much quicker making the behavior much easier to notice.

dave


Mk,
I haven't noticed that with my amplifier thus far. 
I thought I have another bad Elrog replacement tube a few days ago, no sound from one mono block. I removed it and use my EML,still no sound, uh oh. I had it check out by a friend who is an excellent tech. Turns out the recently installed cathode resistor had a bad solder joint. This was corrected and the Elrogs are working fine and sounding fabulous. 
Charles, 
Hi Charles (and other Frankenstein owner),

May it be that the filaments of the Elrogs are very bright after switching on the amp for 2 or 3 seconds and then the brightnes is decreasing within the next about 5 to 10 seconds?


I've  installed  my replacement Elrogs in my amplifier today .  Needless to say that they sound divine. I hope the cathode resistor swap is the answer for tube longevity in the Frankenstein MK II. Time will tell. 
Charles, 
Has anyone tried the Elrog 211 tubes- Looking to change from the GE211( one going bad) on my Wyetech Topaz-  Roger at Wyetech said he doesnt think i will notice a difference in sound from the GE??
My good friend  Jeff (Jwm) installed the new  cathode resistors in my Frankenstein amplifier  yesterday and they  didn't change the sound of the  amplifier at all. That's a relief, now I'm waiting for the replacement Elrogs from George (tubesusa.con). He said they're coming soon. 

Guys,

Posting here after a long, long time being a silent observer of this thread over the last few days.

But thanks to all of your comments, I too have made the decision to get a pair of the Elrog's, to hear these sonic qualities.

Mine are supposed to be the batch from the manufactured lot in August.

The Aussie distributor has been kind to run them in for 75 hours before I try them as that was his recommendation.  

Pick them up tomorrow, so hopefully the festive season will sound better!

Hey  ddriverman,
If your Berning amplifier runs  conservatively your Elrogs should be fine.
Congratulations and good luck. 
Ok, received my Elrog 300B tubes and just put them into my Berning 300B SET ZOTL amp. They replaced EML 300Bs. First impression ... WOW!. Much more layered presentation. Vocals a little further back but soundstage more spacious and deeper. Better separation of instruments and vocals. Seems a little more detailed. Sounds a little softer i.e less gain. Liking it very much. It's staying in the amp for now. Hope the tube will last long. 
I am not surprised that the EML meshplates turned out to be not robust enough to be driven hard.  A lot of modern designs do drive tubes harder than do older amps.  My EML meshplate 2a3s had a long life span in my Audio Note Kagekis, but, when I tried the same tubes in a friend's pushpull amp, after a few minutes of operation, the sound became distorted and the plates started to flash.  The pushpull amp, had a much higher plate voltage, and even with a somewhat modest current level, this was too much for the meshplates.  
Hi Larry,
I had the EML mesh 300b in my Frankenstein for about a 3 week period a few years ago, Its sonic character was just as you described, very open, airy yet delicate and nuanced. I really liked that tube.   Jet is right however, it didn't last long in my amplifier for the reasons Jet stated. The EML XLS is right at home in the Frankenstein by comparison as it's much more rugged and robust. For more conservative run 300b amplifiers the EML mesh plate 300b wound be one to strongly consider in my opinion. This tube is a "true" mesh design unlike the Sophia "mesh plate" versions.
Charles.
Mesh Plate 300b's might not do to well in the Coincident Franks 300b amps. They would probably be run too hard and not have a long life. If I were running 300b Mesh my operating points would be conservative. 350v across the 300b plate at 60mA.  I think the Franks are running over 400v across the plate and maybe 80-90mA?? A good way to fry a mesh plate tube since they don't dissipate as efficiently as a solid plate tube. Jet
Hi Charles 1 dad,

Have you tried the EML meshplae tubes?  I know they are not supposed to be as robust as the XLS, but, I do wonder how they sound.  I use to run EML meshplate 2a3s in my Kageki, and that was a VERY interesting tube and quite different from the EMLs with solid plates.  The mesh-plate tubes delivered a huge, enveloping sound-stage and a very extended and airy sounding top end.  In some sense, the sound could be described as a bit "phasey" and almost unnatural, but, I liked it nonetheless.  

One more thing, I cannot imagine anyone providing better service than George Lenz at Tubes USA.  That would be my go-to source for anything that he carries.   
To me, the question is: Why would anyone choose a difficult load where one needs a lot of power and ability to drive that difficult load. There are many ways to make it easier on yourself, likely less costly as well. Best, Rob

Pani,

I have heard one of the First Watt amps (cannot remember the specific model) in my system for about two weeks (borrowed from a friend).  I liked it a lot--smooth, clear and lively.  Yes, there was a bit of brittleness and an artificially hard edge to the initial attack of some notes (common to solid state), but, it was still a very nice sounding amp.  Unlike a lot of other solid state amps, it did not sound flat and lifeless when playing at soft or moderate volume levels.  It also sounded harmonically rich and dense (a lot of solid state and high-powered pushpull tube amps fail in this respect).  As far as practical concerns, I found it a reasonably easy amp to use--no pops or other noise on turn-on or turn-off, no other problems during my time of usage.  But, like most solid state gear, it takes longer to warm up and really sound its best than tube gear; one possible approach would be to leave it on most of the time).  Although I have not heard other Pass gear in my own system, I have not been favorably impressed the times I have heard their non-First Watt gear.

I own a parallel single-ended 2a3 amp (Audio Note Kageki) a pushpull 45 amp (Deja Vu Audio) and a pushpull 249 amp.  They all have a different sound, and I cannot really say whether this is mainly the characteristic of the topology, differences in components, and/or differences in the tube used.  The single-ended amp is very good at sounding relaxed and harmonically rich; I also like how the bass, though not strong and punchy, is "refined" in the way it delivers subtly different tonal structure depending on the music being played.  My pushpull 249 amp sound more punchy in the bass, but, that sound is a bit more mechanical and generic and not as subtly differentiated as the bass from the single-ended amp.  Still, right now, the pushpull 249 is my favorite amp (somewhat difficult to compare with the Kageki because the 249 amp has transformer inputs and works best with my full transformer input and output linestage).

If I had to pick an amp that is my absolute favorite, it might well be a custom-built, output transformerless amps that two people I know have in their system.  These are extremely dynamic and lively amps that also deliver a very rich harmonic palette.  Unfortunately, they are nearly one-ofs, and are a bit scary (no protection circuitry and no transformer between the tubes and the speaker to protect the speakers).   The other totally unrealistic candidate I heard is a very old Western Electric 59B amp, which is another ultra dynamic sounding amp; too bad those go for somewhere near $80,000 per channel.

In short, I don't really favor any particular implementation of tube amps; I have heard great sound from all types.  As a rough generalization, I tend to like low-powered amps over higher powered amps that use multiple tetrode or pentode tubes to achieve the high power (OTLs being the exception).  To me, if someone really needs a lot of power and ability to drive a difficult load, solid state is the better way to go.
Hi Joe,
Hopefully the  cathode resistor swap will be the answer, only time will tell. The EML XLS is a terrific tube and the past two nights they have provided me with very enjoyable listening sessions without question.
Although in direct comparison I'd choose the Elrog, it does not by any measure embarrass the EML. The Elrog is subtly better in certain areas that are noticeable at this very high level. The EML is a bit more dynamic (small margin) and has a very lively energetic presentation with very gone tonality and timbre. The Elrog is a bit more organic and as you note nuanced. Bottom line the Frankenstein sounds really good with these two tubes as well as the refined Takatsuki. The EML is a superb value given its performance/price ratio and its excellent durability.
George Lenz told me recently that some long term owners have reach 40,000 hours of use with the EML XLS and they still are testing like new. Now that's impressive!
Charles,
Bill,
Man, I'm so happy you and your wife reached your goals and are able to live out your dreams. This is what good planning and determination lead to. I know how good it feels to exercise and get back in physical  shape, there's no downside to this approach. Keep on exploring those mountain trails Bill.
Charles, unfortunately one of my replacement Elrog tubes failed also. George is going to replace them once he gets a suitable pair in. 
 I'll be waiting for your opinion on the resistor replacement ,hopefully the sound won't be degraded. If it makes them last in our amps that would be great, fingers crossed. They are wonderful sounding tubes to bad we're having issues with them. 
Oh well, I put back the EML's and they sound very good with nice dynamics and drive, not as musical as the Elrogs but, I can easily live with them in my Franks along with the Taks.

Joe 
Charles,  make that 7 pounds!  We are finally getting settled in enough that I can really pursue the hiking for all it is worth.  The hiking has been wonderful, and my wife has gotten back into it like in the old days.   The endorphin rush, the beautiful views, the company of my beloved, and the track of Bach's St. Matthew Passion running in my head eight hours a day is hard to beat.  By the time I get home, I do well to make it through dinner before passing out.  I have been hiking so much that those days when I don't are utterly consumed with volunteer work, yard maintenance (yes, I mowed my grass again 2 days ago dressed in shorts and a T) etc.  Perhaps there will come some icy weather, which is pretty much what it takes to keep me off the trails.
I have a stack of CD's sitting on my desk that I haven't had time to listen to yet.  While there have been a few surprises associated with the move, this decision has worked out even better than I had hoped in most respects. 
Tom,
You can get them from Parts connexion.com, they're in Canada.

Bill,
Your use of the PS 10 is a very good decision.
I'm glad you're able to fulfill your goal of hiking in the mountains of Tennessee. Six pounds of belly fat in a week? That's some serious hiking, keep it up.
Charles,
Charles, I am encouraged by the advice rendered by your very trusted source.  Perhaps my PS 10, which provides a reduced start up current for the Franks, coupled with the ability to regulate the voltage at 115, will do the trick for me.  As I said, I am getting very little listening time in these days due to my hiking.  The upside is that I lost 6 lbs of belly fat last week.   I really hope at the end of all of this that we find a solution permitting reliable service from the elrogs.   Its going to be hard taking a step back, if it comes to that. 
Charles 

Since you have done the research on these resistors where did you locate them online??

Tom