Electrical - Romex Wiring and Other Recommended Enhancements


I am moving and will be hiring an electrician to add some wall plugs to accommodate my system needs.

I am using after market cruzeFIRST Maestro Outlet plugs but was needing some guidance on which Romex wiring to use from the electrical box, grounding enhancements, etc.  Any guidance will be greatly appreciated.  

I am using High Fidelity Hemisphere conditioner...

Thanks.

thankful

lak3,062 posts04-30-2018 8:54amThere is absolutely nothing wrong with using 20 amp breakers as long as you run 10/2 wire.
Yes, there are preamps and amps constructed for 20 amp IEC’s, it is possible that if you use a 15 amp breaker the product might lack its full potential.
If you are going to use an HFC Hemisphere then I would suggest you use a Furutech GTX-D NCF (R) outlet and not the cruzeFIRST Maestro outlet to power the Hemisphere.
20 Amp breakers and 12/2 is also often acceptable, but as Cleeds1 stated, it is best to check NEC code if you have a long wire run.

cleeds
1,367 posts
04-23-2018 8:38am

Not necessarily. It depends, in part, on the length of the run from panel to receptacle. If in the US, check NEC.
You are correct; longer runs could require a larger gauge.  Always best to check NEC code.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with using 20 amp breakers as long as you run 10/2 wire.
Yes, there are preamps and amps constructed for 20 amp IEC's, it is possible that if you use a 15 amp breaker the product might lack its full potential.
If you are going to use an HFC Hemisphere then I would suggest you use a Furutech GTX-D NCF (R) outlet and not the cruzeFIRST Maestro outlet to power the Hemisphere.
fsonicsmith
... 15A breakers are far more advisable to avoid the chance of frying wire and house fires. I’m no EE but think that it is true that just because an amp or preamp has a 20A IEC receptacle does not mean you need to feed it 20A for optimum performance.
I can’t imagine any preamp requiring a 20A line for sufficient current, but there are certainly some amplifiers that do. And an amp that requires only a 15A line might still be better served with a 20A line, because the heavier gauge wire on the 20A line will suffer less voltage drop.

... the capacity of the breaker is about convenience-not having to worry about the breaker tripping. The trade-off is that the higher the amperage of the breaker, the less protection you have.
Not so. The capacity of a breaker is defined by the gauge and length of the wire on its circuit. The purpose of a breaker is really to protect the house wiring. Provided the wire is properly sized, a 20A line and breaker is as safe as a 15A line and breaker.


I'm being told by someone I trust that 15A breakers are far more advisable to avoid the chance of frying wire and house fires. I'm no EE but think that it is true that just because an amp or preamp has a 20A IEC receptacle does not mean you need to feed it 20A for optimum performance. Under all but the most unusual circumstances, your gear will get all the power they need with a 15A breaker. At the end of the day, the capacity of the breaker is about convenience-not having to worry about the breaker tripping. The trade-off is that the higher the amperage of the breaker, the less protection you have. I would rather have the inconvenience of resetting the breaker and the peace of mind. As an insurance lawyer, I have seen first-hand that house fires have occurred due to unnecessarily high amperage breakers. 
Based on everything I have read it sounds like I should:
1. Use 20 amp circuit breakers in the electrical box
2. Use 12/2 wire
3. Have electrician drill separate holes for each wire ran to/from box (at least 1.5 inches a part)
4. Have dedicated /separate circuits to avoid ground loopsquality breakers
5. Purchase good quality breakers, ABB is the preferred brand   
6. They should stay on the same buss bar to avoid ground loops

I have not measured but I am guessing about 20' to 30' from the electrical box to the location where the plugs will go. I plan on using my  cruzeFIRST Maestro Outlet plugs in the home I am closing on this Thursday.
My equipment is Primaluna Dialogue Premium Integrated
Lampizator Amber II DAC
Opportunity 105D
Auralic Aries streamer
High Fidelity Cable Hemisphere

One of my main concerns is not to do anything that could fry my equipment.  I believe with the above I should be okay.  If anyone sees any concerning issues please let me know.

Thanks all for your assistance and feedback!







dimora
12/2 is sufficient for a 20 Amp circuit; 10/2 can handle a 30 amp circuit. 14/2 is only good for a 15A circuit.
Not necessarily. It depends, in part, on the length of the run from panel to receptacle. If in the US, check NEC.
12/2 is sufficient for a 20 Amp circuit; 10/2 can handle a 30 amp circuit. 14/2 is only good for a 15A circuit. I would suggest running multiple 20A circuits with 12/2. Most important is to not have light dimmers, circuits that feed fluorescent lights / hairdryers, etc. on the same circuit.

You can also keep your audio circuits on the same buss bar in the fusebox to help mitigate ground loops. Put your noisy dimmers, etc. on the other buss bar.
@thankful 
Can you use 15amp rated power cords with 20 amp plugs?

If I interpret your question strictly as written the answer is no. You cannot put a NEMA 5-20P (plug) on a 15A cable as it's a hazard -- even if you only use it on a device that draws <15A someone might use it on a device that draws more and cause a fire.

However what I think you mean to ask is "Can you use 15A power cords with 20A receptacles" and the answer is yes. The 5-20R (receptacle) is compatible with both 15 and 20A plugs and in fact most (if not all) audiophile receptacles are 20A ones (with the t-shaped top left female connection)
You may know more than your electrician about audiophile needs- I’ve found this to be the case in the past. The electrician will (or should) comply with Code (as written in the local jurisdiction), but you can and should take a look at some of the threads where @jea48 has discussed best practices. Code is, in a sense, a minimum, and aimed at safety, not sound.
I just went through a new install in a ’new to me’ house. I used a commercial electrical contractor, who seemed to ’get’ some of the stuff better than an ordinary residential electrician (nothing against ordinary residential electricians).
The National Code (assuming you are in the States) keeps getting updated. Since the last time I went through this (having an electrical subsystem installed for a dedicated room), Code now requires arc-fault breakers, wiring the panel to permit them (something I can’t speak to but others might), and I believe childproof receptacles (which, as far as I know, aren’t to a high standard --maybe there is a hospital grade one, but your electrician might give you a pass on your existing outlets). It also depends on whether the work is permitted and requires inspection. (Mine did, it was a large amount of work, involved a big isolation transformer, etc).
If you like your outlets keep your outlets. FWIW, there are unplated Hubbell hospital grade, like the ones Albert Porter sells.
Medical grade outlets grip the plugs so much better and their consrtuction is superior to regular outlets

I use cryo’d Pass and Seymour MRI grade outlets - they grip like a vice...
https://www.takefiveaudio.com/products/938-pass-and-seymour-8300-wmri-outlet-cryo-treated/

Make sure the elctrician uses seperate runs of 12/2 and NOT 12/3 - the 12/3 introduces significantly more noise into the wiring.

Hope that helps - Steve
@thankful, much has been written in various threads that answer your specific questions.
Here is an example that I found:
https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/romex-and-breaker-switches

Depending upon the length of AC wiring you need to run, and the demands of your audio components I would suggest either 12/2 or 10/2 gauge wire, individual runs to each 20 amp breaker you run and ground according to your local Electrical code.
I’m not sure why the above post suggests medical grade outlets, I would not go in that direction because of the negative effect of various platings used that diminish and cause harshness with the sound. The FIRST Cruze Maestro Outlets are fine as long as you prefer their sound.
Hello 
you will need to know the  Amps that your system will consume and need to operate correctly and you have to follow local electrical  code .
Based on the amps that you system needs you will pick the correct wire size. Refer to Electrical codes for wire size and grounding. 
Romex is one kind of cable it comes with diffferent amount of conductors and size of conductors.  it is usually embedded in the walls. So if your electrician is pulling a new line he needs to use the right kind of line from panel to the location you need. If inside walls romex is fine if it is external that conduit. 

Best
Technick