Why to replace crimp with solder? Crimp creates oxygen free connection and the only drawback might be how strong it is. I crimped and then soldered, applying heat to wire first (to keep compression). I'm not sure that silver solder I used makes any difference since it is only 4% of silver content.
Cheap crimp connection vs. Solder
I know this has been discussed before. Why is this still being overlooked since we strive for the highest performance possible? I see so many speaker builders still using these cheap crimp connections.
Crimps are easier to use and easier for replacement if speaker needs removal but are you looking for 'easy' or are you looking for the best possible connection?
People buying high priced cables then connecting them mechanically to a cheap mechanical crimp seems rather counter productive.
Research shows crimp connectors handle high vibration better but the silver solder is, in fact, a better connection with LESS resistance.
Important to realize... The mechanical crimped connection has 2 points of mechanical contact in each connector. There's the crimped connection and then the slide on tab connection (which is worse than the crimp) vs. silver solder has one continuios flow path.
So a typical three way speaker has a total of 48 mechanical contacts plus 8 at the junction box. 56 connections in each speaker or a whopping 114 total both speakers!! Some even more.
This seems to be a pretty substantial number of inferior connections being completely overlooked for convenience sake.
I understand that it's much faster assembly for the manufacturer to use crimps than soldering point to point connections but if you want the absolute BEST, least resistive connection then replacing all those crimps with silver solder maybe a worthwhile upgrade looking in to.
Warning...Heat applied to a speaker tab can quickly over heat the delicate speaker wire attached to the cone. You can also fry your tweeter very quickly.
The use of protective heat sinks are extremely important. I've found wraping simple Play Dough around the shank of the tab to be more than adequate to absorb the heat from traveling down the tab. Not difficult but very important!
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Crimp should be a pressure fit copper with straight strands of wire pressed against the metal crimp. No twisting of wire and no solder added. By adding solder it worsened the connection by adding yet another layer. Electric goes from wire, through solder, to metal crimp. FYI...Crimps also use special crimping tool. for proper fit. Hand press fit is not the proper way. Also you apparently still slid the crimp on the speaker tab? This is still a mechanical fit and not a very good one. Lead solder is worse conductor. Silver more better. Proper solder is a single connection straight to the speaker and yields the least resistance. |
Strength isn't required in a home audio speaker. (car audio needs crimps for strength) Straightest, non-restrictive path of least resistance is the goal. In a proper soldered direct connection it does replace/remove the crimp. That's the point of doing it. There's no benifit to use both a crimp and then solder on half the crimp. There's still a mechanical connection to the speaker tab. Any mechanical crimps in the path are a restrictive downgrade and most high end speaker manufacturers would never use them. Straight solder to the tab...simple as that. Imagine connecting an expensive speaker cable to over 100 inferior mechanical connections hidden inside the box. Out of sight, out of mind. Thoughts to ponder.
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No one should use a cheap crimp. However, there are good crimp attachments and tools and they are far better than solder for speakers. I say this as a speaker builder who also has 2 lbs. of Cardas solder under his workbench. I save the solder for crossovers. The drivers themselves get attached via high quality crimp connectors and crimp tools. I wouldn’t do it any other way. Very high quality connection that I can remove in moments in case of a driver failure. Adding solder to a crimp connection can actually make it more brittle and less reliable. I only use solder in the crossover for convenience. If anyone thinks crimps are bad, go look at your home AC panel. Everything there is pressure tight, no solder at all. If it’s good enough for the 200 A that feeds my house it’s good enough for the 2 A that will flow through my speaker. |
Crimps are excellent in the right application. In areas of high vibration or items that need frequent replacement. Auto, aircraft even NASA uses crimps. AC panel also has temperature change and frequent replacement installation. Perfect for pressure fit joints. In manufacturing crimps are faster and cheaper to use. But that's not the issue. Speakers don't have these issues. Does solder have a place? Why would anyone ever use solder? NASA does use solder when top electrical performance is an issue. So does aviation. So do high end speaker builders. It takes a little longer but it's a better low resistance connection. You're right, in a proper crimp connection there shouldn't be room for solder and could actually make it less reliable. This goes another step beyond the crimp portion no one mentions... There is a 'slip on' connection to the tab. That doesn't require any tool or skill. It just slides on.
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