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Cheap crimp connection vs. Solder

I know this has been discussed before.  Why is this still being overlooked since we strive for the highest performance possible? I see so many speaker builders still using these cheap crimp connections.

Crimps are easier to use and easier for replacement if speaker needs removal but are you looking for 'easy' or are you looking for the best possible connection?

People buying high priced cables then connecting them mechanically to a cheap mechanical crimp seems rather counter productive.

Research shows crimp connectors handle high vibration better but the silver solder is, in fact, a better connection with LESS resistance.

Important to realize... The mechanical crimped connection has 2 points of mechanical contact in each connector. There's the crimped connection and then the slide on tab connection (which is worse than the crimp)  vs. silver solder has one continuios flow path.

So a typical three way speaker has a total of 48 mechanical contacts plus 8 at the junction box. 56 connections in each speaker or a whopping 114 total both speakers!!  Some even more.

This seems to be a pretty substantial number of inferior connections being completely overlooked for convenience sake.

I understand that it's much faster assembly for the manufacturer to use crimps than soldering point to point connections but if you want the absolute BEST, least resistive connection then replacing all those crimps with silver solder maybe a worthwhile upgrade looking in to.

Warning...Heat applied to a speaker tab can quickly over heat the delicate speaker wire attached to the cone. You can also fry your tweeter very quickly.

The use of protective heat sinks are extremely important. I've found wraping simple Play Dough around the shank of the tab to be more than adequate to absorb the heat from traveling down the tab. Not difficult but very important!

 

gdaddy1

Showing 1 response by erik_squires

erik_squires
16,560 posts
 

No one should use a cheap crimp.

However, there are good crimp attachments and tools and they are far better than solder for speakers. I say this as a speaker builder who also has 2 lbs. of Cardas solder under his workbench.

I save the solder for crossovers. The drivers themselves get attached via high quality crimp connectors and crimp tools. I wouldn’t do it any other way.  Very high quality connection that I can remove in moments in case of a driver failure. 

Adding solder to a crimp connection can actually make it more brittle and less reliable. I only use solder in the crossover for convenience.

If anyone thinks crimps are bad, go look at your home AC panel. Everything there is pressure tight, no solder at all. If it’s good enough for the 200 A that feeds my house it’s good enough for the 2 A that will flow through my speaker.

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