Bulding Cabinets, Binding Posts, and Speaker Wire ???


I am building a pair of boxes for a 15in fullrange driver. I have 2 pairs of audioquest rocket 88. 1 pair is 10 feet. The second pair is 8ft. I was going to use the 8ft pair as the cables for inside the box. These would run from the driver to binding posts. The cables are connected with spade connectors. Obviously connectors could be removed, but have never attempt anything like that and do not want to ruin the cables. Are there any quality binding post that can accept spade from the inside of the box? If not, any good recommendations for binding posts that dont need soldered. Also, if anyone thinks this should not be done for any reason(to long of cable run), please chime in. 
akwilson501
Its a good idea. I had Ted Denney build me some to replace internal wiring and it was a huge improvement. Assuming of course you like the rocket 88, as otherwise why use it. Make note of directionality, cut em up, solder em in, enjoy. Anything else, look at it this way. You're using expensive wire trying to squeeze out every last bit of sonic detail you can. Right? But then you're gonna sacrifice a whole lot of sonic detail by stuffing in wire that's too long, and adding poor connections instead of soldering. How's that make any sense?

You know the wires good. So use em. If you're concerned about resale then sell them. Sell them now. Or use them. Whatever you do, don't waffle.
If I were to undertake building my speakers, I would brush up on soldering. It isn't hard, but takes a little time to get it right.
  
Once you get it, you have a skill that can lead you to other projects in audio.
Heck, you'll be able to repair things yourself, instead of going to a shop.
Hopefully, Ericsquires will chime in. I know he has built his own speakers.
Bob
You could use a pcb or a bus bar. Drill two holes in the bar and place one hole on the binding post and secure with a (secondary) nut/washer. In the other hole put the inside binding post and likewise secure with a nut washer. Back to back binding posts.

Keep in mind: The length of the wire will offer resistance that will affect your cross-over calculations.
http://www.cardas.com/images/ccgr_l_drawing.jpg

You can use an additional 5/16"x32 nut to fasten the spade connector from the inside of the box.
How about the driver side? Don’t you need to solder it to the driver?
BTW, a GOOD mechanical connection is as good as a GOOD soldered connection.
Thanks for the advice everyone. I will be cutting the cable down. The driver will be connected with the spade terminals, as it is easy to do. I will either crimp or solder the other side of the cable to the binding posts. It’s just 1 15in full range driver per box, no crossover or anything. Both boxes are 15in deep, 19in wide, and 44in tall, if anyone is intrested. Simple bass reflex cabinets.