Ok so I wasn't the only crazy one to think to use their fridge or other appliance to break in a power cord. Whew!
I found these connectors on Amazon and thought any new Power cord I buy if I'm in need of breaking them in I can speed up the burn-in process by using the cord with various household items.
Male Plug Adapter IEC C14 To U.S. 3 Pin Female Connector
I don't think I could remember the sonic differences of when I first used the cable to when I'm done with burning them in but at least I'll know the cable is totally burned in now with hundreds of hours of varying current being pushed through it. Some amps I have don't draw as much as a fridge or a vacuum cleaner. |
I was told by the owner of Elrod power cords to use a refrigerator. He said to leave it for about 3-4 weeks running 24/7. The idea is that powercords breakin from the sudden surge of power being drawn through them and also the ebb and flow of the refrigerator cycling through it's different phases. The fan idea is to use an osscilating fan, again for eb and flow. I picked up an IEC adapter at radio shack. Good Listening! |
RED ALERT, RED ALERT, WIFE DANGER:
I started this threat Oct 29th and not long after daisy chained my new used PCs to break them in. I put them in the basement in the back room and hooked them up to a lamp. I had intended to hook them up to a rotating fan, but never broke into the attic to find our old one. Anyway, today I decided it was long enough, and I would plug one into the system. I went to the basement and found - no lamp on!
Honeeeeyyyyyyy!! Did you turn off that lamp in the basement? Yes. Why? Why not? Nobody was in the room.
Ayyyyyyyy. When did you turn it off? I don't know.
A week? Two weeks? Three weeks? I don't know. Why?
Having no civilian-sane answer to that question, I just smiled and walked away. (I can't afford divorce after 20 years.)
The good news is that I took the BMI Whale Supreme, hooked it up to my CAT JL-2, and was very, very pleased. Things appeared in mid bass that just weren't there before. I would have paid good money for the upgrade. Come to think of it.... |
PA, I never left. In the reference system I'm still using the VH flavor 4 Cryo'd (good bang for the buck). I've not tried any others power cords since December, however I'm waiting to audition some Ridge Street power cords if they are ever sent to me. |
Larry, you're back! Tried any other power cords lately? |
The Absolute Power cord sells for $49 new as advertised on Audiogon and less if you can find them used. I find them to improve when properly cryo'd. |
Cello, the BMI cords tend to boom the bass, exaggerate soundstage and roll the highs. If you were to try a cryo'ed VenHaus Flavor 4 you'd have a very pleasant surprise. The thing is my system is designed to run off 220V/110V isolation transformer/filters and the whole thing changes drastically. There's plenty of information in the archives on this subject. |
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Psychicanimal,
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I just had my Sharks & Whale's cryoed along with my interconnects and speaker cables - It made a huge sonic difference.
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If you still have any of your Sharks & Whales left, you can have them cryoed for not a lot of money and give your system quite a boost.
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How much does the Absolute Power Cord sell for new (used)?
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Cello, I agree that the *anal* talk should stop. It sounds bad to my ears anyway...men talking about *anal* stuff.
As for power cords, the poorer the quality of the power the more effect they have. If your power is good the gap between power cords narrows--and in some cases a power cord that sounded better because it filtered noise can be found to be limiting in the audio band (and colored, too!). That's how the cryo'ed Absolute Power Cord beat the BMI Whale and Shark in my system. |
Newbee,
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Who you callin' Anal.
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I am guessing that if someone is reading this thread, they are more than a little interested in reaching the best sound they can. That might be from better components, cables, interconnects, speakers or room treatments.
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Power cords do need to be broken in and can take up to 1,000 to fully break in. If you miss that point, you might judge a power cord prematurely and miss out on a great power cord and some great sonic improvement. If you don't think power cords make a huge difference, you are missing out on quite a bit.
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Ratsamongus,
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Your comments speak to the reality that you have not put any time into working with power cords. They do make a difference and a huge difference at that.
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Well, power cords *do* break in, especially if cryo'ed... |
FWIW, IMHO, worrying about powercord break-in is about as anal a concern as anything I have ever seen in this hobby! :-) |
How can we expect to hear a PC to break in, it doesn't even pass an audio signal?
If the electrical properties change 10%, do you expect to be able to hear a difference and remember what it sounded like a few weeks befor?
Seems to be the expectation theory again..) |
From: Customer Service at Maytag.com [mailto:customerservice@maytag.com]
Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2004 6:44 AM
To: a.k.a. shasta
Subject: Re: Product Question
Hello,
Thank you for visiting our Maytag.com customer service page. We appreciate your interest in our products and service.
We do not offer an electric dryer that operates on 120volts. We are not
aware of any prior electric dryers that did.
Sincerely,
Deanna
Maytag Consumer Services
(Mon.-Fri. 8:00 a.m.- 8:00 p.m., Eastern Time)
Received Date: 11/3/04
Completion Date: 11/11/04 |
This is a good question. I have no doubt in my mind that "most" interconnects and speaker cables undergo some type of sonic change after being exposed to specific electrical stimuli for a given period of time. I don't know if i really believe this about power cords or not.
Most all of the power cords that i've ever purchased were used and / or new and had high amperage pulled through them right away. As i've stated before though, power cords don't make that much of a sonic difference IF the AC coming into the power cord is clean and the power supply in the component that it is connected to is properly designed. All of my AC is filtered before getting to the outlet and the power supplies have been upgraded.
With that in mind, my main concerns are reducing the potential for the PC to act as an antenna for RFI and making sure that the PC doesn't mechanically transfer vibration / resonance into the gear itself. This can happen if the PC itself is too rigid and / or arranged in a position that helps it to pick-up air-borne vibrations.
Some power cables are so rigid that you can literally feel the beat of the music in the PC and / or the component itself from the speakers resonating the PC. As i've mentioned before, i've had power cords that when you "knock" on one end, you can very clearly hear acoustic output being radiated at the other end. This is not good.
I actually measured increases in the noise floor of a component when varying the amount of vibration that it was exposed to via the power cord. Changing the amount of mechanical damping within the unit itself and / or the PC feeding it corrected this problem. From this one instance, i learned that rigidity with a lack of mechanical damping is not a desirable trait when it comes to a PC. Sean
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Dazzdax,
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How many different power cords have you broken in ?
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Dazzdaz writes: I think you don't need another breaking in period to get a cable sounding good. This is a general misconception. If you "think" that's the case, don't you wonder what causes people to relate their observations of the phenomenon in a public forum? Just taking a straw poll, I reckon we read more posts from folk who claim they have experienced the positive effects of break-in than those who say they observed no change over time. Then there are members who "think" it's a misconception. Regards, |
Ah, that guy doesn't know who I am. If he is from Mexico, I can tell him I went out with one of the Puro Loco Mexican TV program models--no small feat for a "Welfare Spik". Actually, my job position was Sales Manager/Latin America for a very small high tech company ( I had her agree to go out with me before having given my B/card--muy importante--so I *do* have my charm!). Too bad for Sept 11, when I was there and things went down the toilet...she's more mami than Salma Hayek. Problem was that I couldn't sustain her lifestyle on welfare checks...
With psychic power, primal intensity and boogie factor, |
Psychicanimal, I still love ya (platonically speaking, of course!) Absolutely UNBELIEVABLE! At least you have a "fan club". Anyone who would use and email such ethnic slurs has a major brain malfunction. Interesting as well that a person from Mexico would use a slur word for Hispanics (or Latinos, depending upon your location). So any available Sect. 8 housing por mi y mi familia? We wouldn't even mind living next to a "low-life" such as yourself :-) |
Why do you have to break in power cords? The issue of breaking in cables is quite controversial. I think whether a cable, be it an interlink, speakercable or powercord is good or not, could be heard within seconds/minutes. I think you don't need another breaking in period to get a cable sounding good. This is a general misconception. A cable is inherently bad or good sounding, regardless of being broken in or not! |
I received hate mail! It's been quite a while since that happened. The text is as follows:
TO: Psychicanimal
Fuck you piece of shit. \
Go back to your welfare low end spic apartment.
I know where you live stuupid spic.
Fred
==================
FROM: josecanu@cmenow.veriszon.net (NON-member)
Guess what? The hate mail was sent from AOL Mexico: Return-Path: Received: from rly-yi02.mx.aol.com (rly-yi02.mail.aol.com [172.18.180.130]) by air-yi04.mail.aol.com (v103.7) with ESMTP id MAILINYI42-7af418f7cf532e; Mon, 08 Nov 2004 09:04:54 -050 It takes all kinds...this time a *cholo malparido*. *** |
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One would think so, but there are "audiophile grade" power cords that cost hundreds of dollars that will shrivel up and die if used with such a load. Sean
> |
In the US, power cords are tested and certified ("rated") by Underwriters Laboratories.
Fatparrot, I bet you won't find a single audiophile power cord that has been certified by UL.
If the cord is properly constructed, there's no reason why it wouldn't handle 15A (or more), but no one has "rated" it other than the manufacturer. |
Sean, wouldn't any respectable power cord be rated for a 15 amp load, minimum? If so, this would translate to 1800 watts. |
One should be careful with what they try to hook up an "audiophile grade" power cord to when connecting it to something other than an audio component. Some of these very expensive cables aren't capable of passing more than a few hundred watts of power on a steady state basis. Rather than "breaking in" your power cord, you could "burn it up" literally. Check with the manufacturer as to how much current it can pass safely before making a costly mistake, either buying it or damaging it trying to "make it better". Sean
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I purchased a few adaptors and used the refrig to break in a few power cords one of which was an Elrod. All I can say is that it was well worth the price of the adaptors, so thanks Btstrg for them. Very much appreciated.
Happy Listening after break-in! |
If That does not bring you to the page, go on Google and type
Common Household Appliance Energy Use
It will bring up a chart. |
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I'm not sure about the energy ratings on my refrigerator, but it is a fairly recent model (about 3-4 years old) and is certainly not an energy hog. In my opinion, the benefit of power cord burn in on a fridge has nothing to do with the continuous draw and everything to do with the heavy surge when the compressor kicks in, even if it is rarely kicking in. My experience is that even supposedly fully broken in cords (ie. cords that have been in use on my integrated amp for 6 months to a year) showed noticeable improvement following a week on the fridge. The adapter necessary for this, by the way, can be bought at many electronics parts stores for about $3.
My amp is not a monster (about 70W per side), so your experience may vary if you have very high powered amps, but other than that, any other piece of equipment will never ultimately and fully burn in a cord the way a fridge or chest freezer does, including computer monitors/towers, large box fans, etc. Haven't used any larger heaters here though. That is my experience. |
Cello-
The problem w/reefers as a burn-in tool is, as you noted, they are primarily off (unless one believes the light stays on.) This is increasingly the case the newer they are, and more so if they are an EnergyStar model. It also depends on much the door is opened.
The upside is that you don't waste electricity.
The downside is, for my reefer, it takes a full 24 hours to run a dinky 500W through it; an average of 28W per hour. This is hardly a "burn-in". I can accomplish this in 20 minutes on the microwave oven; a 100W floor lamp for an evening; a couple of washer loads.
But really, after a day of this fiddling, I'm of the mind to use the power amp as the burner for a few days, quit being anal/obssesive, and listen to some tunes. A PC doesn't carry music; just a one-note drone tone... |
Psychic, where don't you get your material? Whew, watch out Billy Crystal..A regular riot Alice... |
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Psychicanimal,
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I don't think that there is anything in there worth running after, but thanks for the advice/encouragement.
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If your refrigerator is running, go catch it! |
Shasta -
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I know the refrigerator cylces on and off. I was referring to the idea that you can set it up and walk away from it and it will be running on and off constantly 24/7
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Respectfully; if your refrigerator runs 24/7, it's broken. |
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Refrigerator is my first choice. Easy and it's running 24/7 anyway. Audiogon member subaruguru sells cords fairly cheaply that makes the process easy.
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I found that my power cords kept getting better with up to 900 or more hours of break-in (I used to run my CD player 24/7 on repeat at low volume. Hooking up to the refrigerator gives you 168 hours per week and over 700 hours in a month.
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I refrained from Fisher-Price brand with a lightbulb inside cracks .
Very unusual appliance. 16AWG PC...? My 240V antique is a 3-10AWG PC. The 50 min. may 'splain it all, since it should be 'bout 30-40 min, tops.
No SST, but cleaned the PC brass prongs, and used one of the Caig products... |
Allright you got me , Im a midget and I shop in the kids depatment. I have tiny furniture and a tiny stereo system . To me a JVC shelf systems speakers look like Legacy Whispers ! Seriously Its a full size Maytag Clothes Dryer .Its a 20 amp circut , a 120 volt receptacle. The stock Maytag PC is 16 gauge .Estimated drying time towels and jeans , 50 minutes. maybe with Walker SST, I can get it down to 45 minutes ! |
Maybe, just maybe, there's a tiny, really tiny, stackable electric dryer that requires a 120V circuit, but, - I dare say that *any side-by-side model out there is a dedicated 30A, 120/240, 3 or 4 wire ('pending on local codes and/or age of equipment.) 240V heater element, 120V controls. Same as an electric range, 'cept those are 50A (typ.) circuits.
A 120V dryer with a load of quality bath towels and several pairs of newish jeans might take oh, 6 or 8 hours to dry? .
Newer, energy star reefers are nearly useless - mine takes 24 hrs. to trickle through 500W.
Plug it into an amp, let it rip all day, and after a day or 3, start listening to music... |
My dryer has a 120v 20A line, but it is a natural gas model and not electric. I currently run my stereo off of my dryer's outlet. Cleaner clothes? With Walker SST, you bet! |
How about on an active subwoofer that I leave on all the time, will the amp in that give a PC a proper break in? |
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What chu talkin about Willis ? My Dryer is a Maytag , it operates off a 120-volt receptacle. When I had the thought , I cleared it with Jerry Ramsey of Audio Magic.
I definetly notice cleaner sound.........or was that cleaner laundry ? Hmmmmmmmm................ |
Fatparrot, you be wrong on dat. Most dryers? I don't think so... |
Darrylhifi, most clothes dryers operate on 220 volts (USA). Not only is this a "no-no" for burning in power cords, but the receptacle plugs are different for 110v vs. 220v, so this would be an impossibility as well! |
Sean, I use and love the results with the Ayre disc. I only play track 7. do you play the other tracks? Results if any? Also, can you explain exactly what track 7 is doing and how? In laymans terms, if you can. Thanks again, warren |
If you have kids and laundry is a never ending thing , a Clothes Dryer. Up to 5000 Watts. |
Warren: "overcooking" an IC has more to do with the improper design of the cooker being used, not so much the length of cooking. A simple test would be to cook the cable for a period of time and then pull it and listen. Typical signs of "over-cooking" are a dulling of high frequencies and flatness of presentation. The cable will return to normal, but may do so only after an extended period of normal use. Cables that make use of lower grade and / or higher quantities of dielectrics need to cook longer than cables using very little or very high grade dielectrics.
Mwilson: While you bring up a valid point, my experience is that playing back this disc actually improves the sound of the deck being used too. If you read some of my other posts, you'll see that i've "broken in" many a machine in this manner. In fact, i did this with one machine that was known for breakdowns and it lasted longer than most of the others of the same vintage before developing problems. Sean
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I've always turned with a wince when I've heard the suggestion to run a CDP continuously like that - of course, thinking about my high-end player. Rather than put an expensive player through such a duty cycle, it would seem to me that one would want do this with a cheap unit, second hand, hand-me-down, classified ads for twenty bucks type of player. It's been widely suggested before - for doing this sort of work, some "beater" equipment makes a good tool. |
