Biwiring make any sense?


I am on the verge of adding new floor standers to my setup as my room has enlarged.  Options being considered are KEF R7 Metas and PSAudio Aspen FR10's.  Both have biwireable terminals, the KEF has a jumper switch  and the PS has jumper wires to bridge the terminals.  The other option from dealing with the jumpers is to biwire the speakers.  In this case I could run a banana and a spade off each output terminal.  Is this even worth considering?  Biamping is not something I'm interested in, as I already am running off an integrated amp.  I had a pair of BassZillas before, each one of which had 3 sets of terminals, the top 2 being biwired, but that's a different deal (I don't have those cables anymore).  Speaker comments would be welcome too.  Amp is PSAudio Spectral Strata w/150 watts into 4 ohms.

128x128howardlee

Bi-wiring opens your system up to more potential open circuits. Heavy gauge cable to a single set of posts with finished shrink wrapped heavy gauge jumpers is a better idea. Of course there are active designs with dedicated amplifiers for each driver but those circuits are protected inside the cabinet with onboard signal processing. 

If budget permits look at Yamaha NS 5000.  There is an excellent display in Yamaha's Innovation Road museum in Hamamatsu, Japan, on a main Shinkansen line with a short subway ride. 

@dogearedaudio I caught your response out of the corner of my eye and wondered if I had already responded but didn’t recall.  I have been listening to ProAc Response 2 speakers for more than 30 years.  Everybody says I’m not supposed to hear differences from biwiring.  But for me, the speakers sound taller and the soundstage is wider and deeper.  My response to the question is to try it and see if biwiring works in your system.  

Bi Wiring should make no difference unless you use undersized wire (as @carlsbad2 said) .  If it does, then something else is going on to give that effect.   The two "bi wire" signals are actually full range signals coming from the full range amplifier(s), remaining full range down the two cables (what you think is "HF" and "LF" cables) then inserted to the crossover and passively filtered to remove top end for the LF feed or remove low end from the HF feed, following the crossover's plan on where the signal is destined to go.  The typical benefits of bi-amping (according to the old original definition of biamping that is still used in pro) was that an electronic crossover that operates at line level can do the separation work better with less error and then each amp can specialize in HF or LF.  This gave obvious benefits as low end typically draws the most power from the amp and is usually the root cause of amp clipping (running out of power), causing you to hear a clip in the top end.   Clipping is usually the reason tweeters die (from overheating trying to follow a clipped square wave);  the dynamics of music is not linear but logarithmic, so dynamic music peaks can instantly demand many times the output of the average, often outstripping the amps ability to supply it.  This is also one reason a larger amp usually sounds better than a smaller one of the same design.

 

Brad  

The physics are drop dead simple, the expanding and collapsing high current bass signal modulates HF… Easy to hear n a resolving system and listeners w open mind / ears. I have a set of moderately priced but very robust shotgun biwire cables i loan out… they have a hundred thousand miles on them…sadly none yet on the above mentioned bullet train to Yamaha…. maybe i will carry them on next time i’m in Japan….