Allnic h-3000 power supply issue

You want a big jump in sound? Add in the HA3000 head amp. No need for the other stuff unless that makes it even better. But then that would give you more glory when you've already had enough.

Thanks j-wall I will be curious to hear your impressions on stillpoints.  I have always been curioius but skeptical.

@lak thanks for the heads up on the power cords!

Zavfino: This might help

@lak thanks for the advice. I've never heard of any of those brands so I'll do a little digging and research on them. I continually hear good things about him so I always pay attention when I see him post. 

Those power cords that I mentioned worked very well with my Allnic L-3000, H-1201 and T-1500 in addition to other manufactures, which is why I believe they will workout very well with your Allnic products. My Allnic products were also purchased from Albert, the man is a wealth of knowledge...;-)

@pops I'll be on the hunt for one of those GZ34 big base mullards. I will definitely report back when I try out the stillpoints as well. 

@j-wall I am using 5AR4 GZ34 big base Mullard.  It was such an improvement in an already great presentation that I stopped there!  Albert’s great - that is where I got my Allnic h-3000 and also various PAD cables.  Can’t recommend him high enough.

@pops thanks for the advice. I've definitely got a mixed bag of AQ and Shunyata cables. I guess I'll just dive in and go for it. I think I read Albert porter was a fan of the stillpoints so I'll be dipping my toe in that realm first. Also, which Mullard did you try out and like?

j-wall glad to hear you solved your issue.  Good advice from Whart as well!

I rolled the stock power tube on my h3000 with a NOS Mullard years ago and got a huge bump in performance in my system.  Frankly, I was shocked that it could make such a difference.

Good luck with your journey with power cables - I also believe the same brand should be used throughout.  I have tried an embarrassing number of IC/SC but not a lot of PC’s.  I have stuck with wywires for all components and have been pleased.  I also plug everything into a Shunyata Denali V2 fed buy a Sigma XC PC.  This was also a big bump in performance in my system. 

As far as power cords are conserved, I’d recommend the Hijiri Nagomi made by Combak Corporation in Japan.

https://gestalt.audio

OR one of the models made by Zavfino https://zavfinousa.com

I understand ya. Did you have any luck with any cables? Anything you did or did not like? I'm currently plugged into my Ps Audio P10 so I'll be experimenting with this and direct to the wall as wall. 

Im currently using a NOS Brimar GZ32 and have the Shuguang posted above as well. From what I've heard it can run a GZ32, GZ34, GZ37, 300B and Im sure a few others. 

Frankly, I should have suggested you check the fuse.

As to power cords, try several and see what you like. There is something to be said for "same cable" throughout a system, though that means you could miss by a mile too. I found very little benefit to rolling the audio tubes and those on the main chassis-- I went with Dutch tubes as I recall when I recently retubed.

The rectifier is key to this thing, though. And you’ll hear different things from different people which means a number of variables: system voicing, where the system benefits from the particular tubes strengths and minuses--as well as shortcomings in other parts of the system. Mine currently gels but I think this is very system dependent, based on personal (and hopefully informed) preferences.

BTW, is the tube you are focused on-- apparently a GZ32 equivalent-- the correct tube for this power supply?

@whart thanks for the guidance. I'm a bonehead and step 1 should have been to check the fuse. Blown. Replaced and back up and running. Testing out a Brimar 5V4G. I'll be following up on your H-3000 threads and guidance. I've heard stillpoints and tube rolling, any advice on cables for the power supply?

What did your tube data research disclose on voltage and current? How old is the unit (thus, having recourse to the distributor)? I’ve rolled, among others, a metal base Mullard (really a Philips Miniwatt but a GZ 34, not a 32), a fat base 34 and with best success in my system, given its strengths and weaknesses, the GEC u52. (which I have owned as both a black base and a brown base, cupped bottom).

If you fried something and have no warranty, the repair should not be that difficult for someone competent.