Acos lustre GST-801 P2S distance?

@rauliruegas 

Thank you for your encouragement.

Calvin

rauliruegas

I know you encouraged me about the GST-801, was it you who found the one I bought? I have a poor memory, forgive me.

Elliott

Dear @dangcaonguyen : If your (=! is in good operation condition then you have one of the best quality tonearm ever.

You have not to worried about LOMC or MM/MI cartridges to mated. Due that is a removable headshell design you always can mate any cartridge with. 

Congratulations  !

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,

R.

I have set up several turntables myself in the past. I am confident that I could do it this time. I will post questions when problems arise.

Thanks

Great purchase, I have been tempted to buy it every day, and hoping someone here would want it. Someone here found mine for me.

I agree, not spherical and not elliptical, start with an advanced stylus (ML microline, linear contact, Shibata, SAS) for two reasons, one musical, one practical

1. better contact with the groove walls, improved retrieval of the musical information

2. less wear to the stylus and less wear to the grooves

they cost more, but they last much longer, so in the long run they cost less, and less frequent mounting/alignment of cartridges is a good thing.

AT540ml, $250 is an excellent MM cartridge, I just installed/listened to it on my friends TT. I have the prior AT440ml here in my office.

Do you have the tools and skills to mount and align a cartridge? It is more important when using an advanced shape stylus.

If not, we can steer you right.  

The 103 will work fine in the 801 arm. But will be limited in tracing ability by its spherical stylus. I'd upgrade to the Hana SL ($750) with the Shibata stylus. 

@elliottbnewcombjr 

Thanks for the detailed informative post. The provided link of the tonearm for sale is the one I purchased. One more question: is the Denon DL103 a good match for this tonearm? Any recommendation for a MM cartridge for this tonearm?

This metal ruler measurement scale starts exactly on it's edge.

For my 3 tonearms, I drilled half a hole the size of the spindle at the starting edge, just put it against the spindle and draw an arc.

I own that arm, got the specs, installed it myself, absolutely love it, I'm sure you will also.

you are correct: 225mm spindle to pivot 15mm overhang 240mm effective length null points 60mm and 117mm

others: there is a mint one for sale now https://reverb.com/item/53590531-acos-lustre-gst-801-tonearm?gspk=SGlmaXNoYXJrLVJldmVyYg%3D%3D&utm_campaign=Hifishark-Reverb&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_source=partnerstack-legacy

sumiko’s ’report’ is amazing, you can download it and the owner’s manual from vinylengine.com (join if not a member, it’s free)

the anti-skate is best set by watching the arm on a blank disc. this disc has overhang and null point lines for any turntable/cartridge, and other blank side to set anti-skate

spin platter by hand, lower arm, adjust dial (it’s activating a magnetic force, magnet is many years old) come back in 20 minutes, double check it. then I usually double check tracking and anti-skate every month or two.

note the big heavy round ring that mounts below the plinth. it is a terrific counter-weight. NOT a nut, it is smooth round, with a few holes in it’s edge. you need room to get something in the hole you can then use to tighten it.

You could drill a few holes in it’s bottom edge to get something in to tighten it if you don’t have side clearance in your plinth. Think ’symmetry’ when drilling holes to keep it balanced, not critical, but we are perfectionists

Check Vinyl Engine Tonearm Database.

Never mind,

I found the specs online. Effective length is 240mm, and overhang is 15mm.

So p2s distance is 225mm.