2. misc-audio
  3. 193545-178608

AC Power

I have a relatively nice system, but have done nothing with my AC power, with the exception of upgraded PC’s and a cheap iFi plug in power conditioner. My question is multi fold… do I need to do something, and if so what? Dedicated line (15A or 20?)? Quality power conditioner? Both? Which one first? How do you tell?

My system is a combination of HT & 2 channel & I tend to use both simultaneously as I like to watch sports while listening to music.
My amp is (I think) a relatively low draw… Moon 330A, Rythmik sub, BHK pre, Aurender, Qutest w/Sbooster, R11’s. No high power amps are in my future & never listen above 75db. I do currently plug my amp directly into the wall. All my wall warts are gone. For my HT, add a 75” Sony TV, Marantz 7015 AVR & a Klipsch sub (although at zero volume the AVR & sub should not come into play).

I am considering buying the Furman IT-Reference 15i or 20i first as they are well reviewed & are priced very well on Amazon ($1,400 / $1,900). Before I pull the trigger, should I go dedicated power & at what amperage (my nephew, an EE & audiophile thinks I am drawing no more than 5 amps) as that will dictate the Furman model?

Interesting, my nephew thinks neither are worth the investment. His statement: “Do you have appliances on the circuit now? What kind of interference can they inject?...voltage drops would come from current draws...which trip breakers.
Not steady 60hz a good power supply handles. So it all comes back to was the power supply engineer dropped on his head as a child.”

”Personally I think it’s something audio people do when they have run out of gear to buy.”

Any thoughts or recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

signaforce
erik_squires
16,653 posts
 

Speaking of voltage regulation, any difference between this and this, other than $1,400? It seems 15A should mostly be enough for digital front end, if not all front end components.

@mitch2

No, these units go on steep discounts routinely. Sometimes on Amazon, sometimes at Pro oriented stores so worth keeping an eye on them. You are correct that 15A (1800 VA) is basically overkill for most home systems.

Furman makes so many models that it’s always good to check the specific feature set with Furman. The basic features you want are:

  • SMP (series mode protection)
  • LiFT (linear filtering)
  • EVS (Extreme Voltage Shutdown)

Usually those three come as a package in their pro or consumer models. These are some consumer oriented features:

  • Power Factor correction
  • Balanced outputs
  • Switched outlets

So for me, SMP, LiFT, EVS and AR are features I really insist on having. The AR (automatic regulation) is the expensive part.  Like balanced power, it takes a big internal transformer to work so adds a few hundred dollars to the price tag compared to say the basic Furman strip without.

Furman DOES make an almost pure regulator without SMP, LiFT and EVS but more LEDs (HAH!) but uses old-school surge protection. The only advantage of that unit is that the LEDs constantly show you the incoming voltage.

mitch2
4,214 posts
 

@erik_squires - Thank you.

@jea48 - I actually have four 20A dedicated lines powering my system.

  • One circuit located in a separate room away from my system that is dedicated to my internet modem, router, music server, and associated peripherals
  • One circuit powering the digital front end equipment in my system room, including peripherals, with all power cords coming from an Isoclean 60A3 II filter
  • One circuit powering my passive volume control (with display/remote) and SMc Audio unity-gain buffer, each of which have their own outboard linear power supplies plugged into the wall, and 
  • One for my SMc 650wpc monoblock amplifiers also plugged into the wall.  I recently replaced the 10A SR input fuses in those amps with copper rods and incorporated in-line magnetic circuit breakers provided by SMc Audio, and as they began using in their equipment shortly after they completed my amps in 2020 (see 2nd and 3rd pics on my system page).

I don't perceive any noise issues whatsoever but was curious about the potential effect of voltage fluctuations, primarily on my front-end equipment.

amtprod's avatar
amtprod
128 posts
 

@erik_squires GREAT info, as always!!!
The OP mentioned early that he has limited space for additional pieces of kit.  I have a similar issue with space.  The Furman unit you recommended (one you have always stood by and recommened before to others), is a 'rack mount' style.  Since it has "AR" and a sizable transformer, is it an issue to set it ontop of another piece of gear, or under another piece of gear with "normal" feet stand offs?  Meaning, 'stacking' but NOT in a rack? 
I would imagine no due to magnetic induction issues in either or both?  Is that correct?  Assuming would need at least 5inches of space top and bottom?
Great thread and info!!!

Furman P-1800 AR

erik_squires
16,653 posts
 

@amtprod - I would 100% avoid putting it near other linear piece of gear, like an amp or preamp, etc. Keep at least 4" above and below to ensure the magnetic field doesn’t couple to something else, maybe more.  It IS safe to put directly on the floor though, maybe with a towel to avoid screws from scratching.

I should also warn you that these sometimes do develop some mechanical hum.

signaforce's avatar
signaforce OP
314 posts
 

Unfortunate. It appears all the Furman AR’s are designed to be rack mounted with no feet. I thought I could stack the 1800 AR model on my AVR by adding feet (alleviating my space issues), but apparently not.
The 2400 AR (20A) rack ears are not even removable adding 2” further I would have to move my rack from the wall if I put it behind.

Back to the drawing board. Any other brands that have voltage regulation?

More to discover