rogue dronus magnum issues


I have purchased a rogue audio magnm that has played beautifully up till now, it's now dead. wont' even power up! I am going to contact Rogue. but I bought it second hand so I have no warranty. There is a potted squard section in the middle of the amp where 4 wires come in and are terminated. One of the 4 wires is burned insulation with exposed wires. I suspect this is the problem. How it happened I have no idea, I am running Martin Logan Aeris i's which are a difficult load but I would have assumed this would knock out the output tubes if abything? Help!!
jimbojrjb
One of the 4 wires is burned insulation with exposed wires. I suspect this is the problem.

I would tend to agree with that suspicion !!!! :)
this poor guy is probably looking for more helpful responses than these, come on guys!
I think you're describing a bridge rectifier. I had a similar problem with Rogue M120 monoblocks - the bridge rectifiers were undersized for the current that was going through them, and were cooking one of the wires. Under guidance from Mark from Rogue, and with larger replacement rectifiers he sent me, I was able to swap them out. Some minor replacement wiring was necessary to replace the damaged wires. If you take on a repair yourself, make sure you understand the safety issues of working on tube equipment - (how to discharge capacitors safely etc) as there is potentially lethal voltage inside tube equipment even when powered off. This would be a simple job for any competent tech.
Call Mark and Nick at Rogue Audio. They're really good guys, and I'm sure they can help you out even though your amp was bought second-hand. And, congrats on assembling a very nice system. My system is very similar to yours, and I'm sure you're enjoying the music as much as I am. Good Luck, and Happy Listening.
Also, not that this will help your current situation, but did you know that you can change the output terminals to match a 4-ohm load? The Cronus has only one set of speaker terminals, but there is an in-chassis swap (solderless, I'm pretty sure) to tap the speaker terminals for 4-ohm use. This may be a help for driving a "difficult load," which often means the speaker's impedance drops below 4 ohms.