Thoughts On Turntable Clamps And Weights

Well said. A synchronous AC motor is a safer bet, so a good first step.

@bolong Indeed an elegant solution that adds $5,000.00 to the cost of a $22,000.00 turntable available for purchase on both coasts of the US of A. 
See https://almaaudio.com/ for Bergman Audio products to include the Bergman-Galder turntable with vacuum clamp. Tone arms sold separately, but you can mount four (4) of them on the table. They have dealers all over the world  https://bergmannaudio.com

A record weight or clamp should damp spurious vibrations, not try to flatten a warped disc. Have a look at the Origin Live Record Weight - The Gravity One.

The Stator Bowl, is one area of a design that has been severely scrimped on.

I have witnessed the gauge for metal used for pressing/casting that is close to a range of 1/64 - 1/8.

I have done work on rigidly bracing the base of the bearing housing and have encouraged others to adopt methods to achieve the same end.

The improvements discovered are worthy of mentioning and the reports from those that have adopted this as a method are again not to be overlooked.

As I own a 3" (75mm) Thick Board of Permali, I am in a position to have the Bowl formed as a recess in the chassis, which will not be a thin flimsy add on, prone to flexion and deflection, the Stator and other parts for the drive will be directly attached to the Permali Wood, the original bowl will be redundant.

What really matters is how the new bearing housing interfaces with the Permali Bowl and how the Platter Spindle is catered for as it passes through the Bowl and Stator and other parts of the drive.

This is to be my design for the Kaneta, as an alternative to the original motor drive being bedded into a substantial chassis.

At present there are two Kaneta designs at hand, one as a thick laminated wood chassis and the other a single P'holz Board chassis.

There is at present one electronically modified TT, at hand to the used with the two mounting methods.

Another TT will need to be a donor model to produce my Permali Chassis version, where the modified electronics can be shared to have the experience of both types. 

As an aside, I was yesterday involved in what I will refer to as a healthy conversation with my Engineer friend about Air Bearings 😎, I do like the general expressed ideas being made known.

You might want to investigate the modifications made by Richard Krebs for Technics SP10 Mk2 and Mk3.  He spent a lot of time investigating the stators and how to stabilize them.  I have had my own Mk3 modified according to Richard's Ideas, by a local tech who learned the procedure from Krebs himself and is one of a few persons in the USA qualified to perform the modification.  The idea being that these motors have enough torque such that the stators are subject to movement in a direction opposite to that of the platter, when torque is required.  This causes the servo to "read" a speed instability where there may be none, and thus a kind of oscillation is possible where the servo is calling for unnecessary speed correction.  This in theory can cause an audible coloration. Unfortunately, the actual modifications are shrouded in mystery; I can only say the changes seem to involve the stators.  I can also say that even though I heard no real "problem" with the Mk3 a priori, the Krebs mod really did rmake the Mk3 sound more like real music.  I did hear, and have so stated in this Forum, a slight "gray-ish" coloration in the SP10 Mk2, when I owned one.  I assume the Krebs mod would be beneficial to reduce or eliminate that issue in the Mk2.  The good news is that the Krebs mod on the Mk2 is less expensive than on the Mk3  I am quite sure the Krebs mod(s) do not include the introduction of Panzerholz or the like.