Advice needed on power cables, wall warts, conditioning, electrical outlet

@bogbeat 

Really good suggestions above.  As mentioned I would replace your outlet(s) with something more robust.  Check your outlets for proper grounding and connection by using one of those cheap outlet testers. 

Regarding power cables the stock black ones sent with equipment are junk and are only meant to power up the equipment.  I was at a demonstration at a dealer where they were demonstrating power cables.  A really straightforward set up from an integrated to the speakers.  Only one power cable was changed.  We started with the stock cable and worked our way up to a $10k cable.  This was a very, very modest system with inexpensive monitor speakers.  My takeaway was that yes the stock cable was junk and the sweet spot for cables was in the $150 to $500 range (full retail). 

As @lak and others have stated the zavfino cables are wonderful.  You won't be able to build a cable that sounds as good for the money.  I have swapped out three of my power cables for the zavfino and they were cheaper than the cables I was using and sound better.  A member of our audio club has also purchased the zavfino cables and they are keepers for him and he has tested and owned more cables than I would ever approach.  They had been offering discounts on purchases.  The only downside of their cables is that they are stiff and if you are between lengths get the longer one.     

Well, Paul is correct. But he needs to continue: its the job of the amp’s (or preamp’s, but that’s less current-demanding) power supply to deliver that power. Regulation of the DC rails can eliminate this issue - if and only if there is sufficient headroom built into the power supply regulator (heat, money...). Large storage "banks" also deliver this.

But its also why i suggested a 1KW (VA actually) or bigger ISO transformer.  If i recall mine is between 2-3K V-A. A large class AB amp might draw 100-150 watts at idle and God knows on peaks (600? 800?) . Remember that every amp on the planet (save a carver) begins with a large isolation and step down transformer at its AC mains. How often does music, with its 10:1 peak-to-average ratio exceed a well designed power supplies ability to deliver r the peak? IMO not often. In general THAT internal transformer will be the limiting factor.

But this is also why i keep harping on the cost-benefit of some tweeks. Even if they "work" would the $500 per wire set be better spent on an amp or preamp that is designed well in the first place? All my testing and listening says yes.

But anyway Paul raises a valid point.

I am running Monsoon power cables and a Niagara 1200. I listened and decided to remove them all and replace with regular highly shielded " stock" cords. I was beyond shocked at how much the stock cords degraded the sound. Soundstage, and musical separation was gone. And my equipment sounded way less musical. I then repulsed in the Monsoons and the Niagara. 

I am moving up the line and will be selling the above. PM me if you are interested and I will make you a great deal. 

Glad to share. Plitron makes a great medical isolation transformer - I use 4 of them.

Will fill in some specifics later today, when Sunday calms down a bit.

Plitron medical isolation transformers are what I use.

Words of caution: isolation transformers tend to hum when they are doing their job, so you want to site these in a utility room. Installation is not hard, but unless you have some experience with home wiring, get it done by a pro. Think of it this way: behind every wall is a large elephant, ever vigilant, straining to get loose and destroy everything. That's the power lurking in the modern home electrical system. When the installation is complete, you will need to involve the electrical inspector, who may want to inspect it. This is essential if you do a permanent installation, because no inspector means no insurance.

Don't worry too much about the length of wire from transformer to outlet. Use oversise Romex for this (for 15 amps, code says AWG14, so use AWG12). Use any hospital grade outlets, which are not the most expensive, just the best, available at your electrical supply store, or from Parts Connexion. Pay no more than about $20 each unless you live in a hot, humid environment, in which case you may need corrosion resistant connection points.

To specify what you need,

Step 1: You will want to put all the electronics on one transformer, everything with a motor on another. To do this, total up the maximum load of each device you will be connecting, usually found on the back of the case or the user's manual. Allow for the future, so add 25% more. Then double the total for technical transformer-thing reasons, and that's the capacity of the transformer that you need. Once you have calculated the capacity of the transformer for your electronics, do the same for the transformer which will run your motors.

Step 2: Torroidal or conventional? Torroidal is better, but can be hard to find. Plitron is toroidal, and used to sell to the public direct from the factory. Maybe they still do.

Step 3: Permanent or portable? Permanent is cheaper to buy, but more expensive to install. For permanent, buy a raw transformer with wires sticking out of it and site it in an electrical box (electrical supply) and feed it with it's own circuit, fed by an oversize cable from the box.

You may have noticed that this involves a bit more than swapping out power cords. It was a bit of a stretch for me to do the whole thing, but it's a hobby, and for me, it's worth it. YMMV

Good luck!