Should I bother to try a subwoofer?


My speakers are listed as going down to 40 HZ (Dynaudio 1.3 MkII monitors).
There is an REL Strata III available locally that I might snag, try out and re-sell if I don't like/need it. My question is this: since I would not be using this for movies, do I even need this? I mostly listen to classical music, more chamber than symphonic, and occasionally listen to rock, jazz and other pop styles.

Am I likely missing something without that lowest octave? I'm thinking that 99% of the time the sub might not even be in use if it kicks in at 40 Hz.

Any comments, purely theoretical or from experience, will be welcome.
128x128tostadosunidos
I also run my REL Q150E relatively (but appropriately) pretty low...and as an older (but still amazingly handsome) musician/soundman I also have "experience specific" tastes in this stuff (unlike the "teeming masses/great unwashed" non musicians who have irrelevant tastes...heh heh). I do adjust the level sometimes but only in tiny increments. I suggest 3 things: An angled Neutrik plug (hard to find but cool) and an angled IEC cable (Audioquest sells an IEC angled adaptor) in case you want to put the control panel side back against a wall (I do this), and a "chicken head" knob for the level pot in case it IS backed against a wall...you can adjust the level and more readily tell where the knob is set.
Tostado,

IME, the problem with set-up by ear is that you're trying to optimize for 3 major variables at once (and a few minor ones, too). Smoothest response will vary with room position, as will the native output level from the sub (as reinforcing or destructive room interactions have their way with the low hz output). The placement with the smoothest response will likely require a different level setting on your sub than the placement with the second smoothest response. Finally, the x-over frequency (and slope, if applicable to your set-up) must be optimized for the particular placement you've chosen. As above, likely to differ (unpredictably) between best, next best, etc. And you've got to pick the best compromise....

I'm sure you're better equipped for the task than I am, but it's an awful lot to ask of anyone to optimize that equation by ear.

Good Luck (and kudos on the self-improvement project, too).

Marty
Wolf, I tried the sub facing towards me and it did not sound good, so I don't think I'll have the controls against the wall (unless I move to another house, and even then, who knows...)
Marty, you're probably right, but once again, the expense.

Clarification--I didn't mean to imply that I'm uniquely qualified to do this by ear. I imagine most of the folks on the forum have spent a lot of time squinting their ears to sound and music. I think most of the folks here would do a good job of setting up by ear, given enough time. I tried to make that point, briefly, before.
Hmm, wish I found this thread earlier.

I have the same Dyns. Yes, they can benefit from a sub with some kinds of music in particular. But the Dyns can sound lovely with bass down below 50 hz or so by themselves, so it is a tough call.

I do not use a sub with them because I have other speakers that do full range quite well.

If I did not, I might consider a sub, but only a larger very good one capable of going down to 20 hz or so with aplomb in order to really add clear value.

I would try to cross over at 50 hertz or above I believe.

I have used my Dyns with an older M&K sub with good results but that was in my second system where the speakers are stored way up high inside a cabinet and bass performance is way down compared to proper setup as a result.
Aplomb! Has anybody named an adjustment knob "aplomb" yet? That is also a great name for an audio company or product.

I have this little corner thing going on that reinforces the REL amazingly. My system is tweeked (for "active" listening anyway) to my listening spot only, as standing waves and other bass reinforcement elsewhere in the room go bananas, as well they should.