2. amps-preamps
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Advice/Warnings for a newbie

Hi

I've had way too much free time and gone down a few rabbit holes purchasing some older gear, some of which I've got a little experience with and some none... but was curious, because I am not the best technically, if any of the more seasoned audiophiles might have any advice regarding my chain. I'm replacing my 30w Pioneer receiver with separates (put all my specs in the below list) – I got the preamp as a family hand-me-down and I've just bought the monoblocks (having service done now) so I've not heard it all together yet. The player and speakers I've been using forever. But will I OK in terms of matching impedances, gain, etc? Oh, and I'm installing a dedicated line for the monoblocks and was looking at a Niagara 1200 as power conditioner for the rest.... any tips greatly appreciated!


Technics SL1200M3D
Tonearm: Jelco 750D
External PSU: Paul Hynes SR4
+
Cart: Nagaoka MP150
Type: Moving Iron
Output voltage: 1kHz, 5cm/sec:4.5mV
Frequency range: 20-20kHz
Material: diamond, nude
Stylus type: elliptical 0.4 x 0.7 mil
Tracking force range: 1.5–2g
Tracking force, recommended: 1.8g
Recommended load capacitance: 150-200pF

>>

Phono Stage: RCM Sensor 2 
Input: RCA – Balanced and Unbalanced (selectable via switch)
Output: Balanced XLR / Unbalanced (single ended)
Input sensitivity: 0.3–5mV (selectable in 7 steps)
Gain: 52–76dB (2 VRMS output at 1 kHz)
Input impedance: 20–47kΩ (selectable in 8 steps)
Input capacitance: 150 pF
THD: 0,01% (1kHz)
RIAA linearity: +/-0,3dB (20Hz–20kHz)
Nominal output: 2V rms
Max. output level: 8V rms
Output impedance: 70 ohm
S/N: 85dB (lowest gain settings)
RIAA linearity: +/- 0,3dB (20Hz–20kHz)

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Cello Palette Preamplifier
Maximum output: 8V RMS (single-ended), 16V RMS (balanced)
Line Gain (Switchable): 0dB, 6dB, 9dB, 12dB, 18dB
THD (ref. 6V): 0.084%
Input impedance (Unbalanced): 1MΩ
Output Impedance: 150Ω

Running Balanced into >>

Pass Labs Aleph 2 (Monoblocks)
Topology: Class A, single-ended
Power Output: 100W into 8Ω / 200W into 4Ω
Maximum Output: 10A, 40V (Peak)
Gain (Balanced): 20dB
Gain (Unbalanced): 20dB
Gain (Unbalanced, XLR Jumpered): 26dB
Distortion (100W, 8Ω, 20Hz-20kHz): 0.5%
Input Impedance (Balanced): 25kΩ
Input Impedance (Unbalanced): 10kΩ
Output Impedance: 0.1Ω
Damping Factor: 100
Common Mode Rejection: 60dB
Power Consumption: 300w
Output Noise: 600μV
DC Offset: <100mV

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A/D/S L1290 Loudspeakers
Frequency responce: 40hz–27khz,
Impedance: 8Ω nominal
Efficiency: 90dB SPL from 2.8 VRMS (1W)
Crossovers: 500hz and 5khz, 12dB/Octave slopes

au_lait
petg60
1,486 posts
 
Hi,
start using your gear, with what you have availiable. I understand that there is plenty of gain match between your pre/power/speakers. When accustomed to your system of how it behaves find and trust a good dealer and borrow sets of cables if possible so you can hear yourself the changes in sound. All cabling in the chain is important, power or signal. You will figure out where to improve by adding the better cables as to bring out the most of it. MP-150 is a fine mm cartridge but your arm and phono stage can accept better ones, this can happen at a later stage.

cheeg's avatar
cheeg
241 posts
 
Have you considered a pair of subs, or a DBA?
austinbob
235 posts
 
Do you love your speakers? What qualities do you value in sound reproduction? If the speakers you own don’t deliver those qualities then don’t chase tweaks. A great amp or preamp may not be a great match to a speaker. In brief, my order is find speaker you love, find a great amp match, refine your sources, then tweak with power conditioning and cables. My two cents. 
millercarbon's avatar
millercarbon
12,531 posts
 
Thanks mrdecibel he did misunderstand and yes everything matters. The problem in situations like this where the OP doesn't know and if I was there and could see and hear it would be easy but going by partial info its impossible. So my default is replace any and all freebie patch cords, rubber power cords, and ordinary speaker wire. 

In this case the OP is so far off base- dedicated lines, a zillion meaningless specifications but not one word how it sounds or what he is after- it seemed a waste to try and say anything beyond yes power cords do make a difference.

When you do hook all that up au_lait very likely you will find its pretty good but awful lean, excessively detailed and hifi sounding. That's just what you have. Some of that stuff is very well regarded but taken all together inappropriate and could probably be sold for enough to buy a much better sounding integrated amp. This will save you a lot of money because power cords do make a difference and the same $1200 that will buy you three $400 power cords for the pre/monoblocks will buy you one insanely good $1200 power cord. By insanely good I mean so freaking good even the near deaf boobs who think power cords are zero zilch nada will have no choice but to crap their drawers and slink off in shame.

Separates can be wonderful but only if you are made of money.
audioguy85's avatar
audioguy85
2,001 posts
 
I must be very gullible as I own the Niagara 1200 as well as many semi expensive AQ power chords. To me they have made a difference...a radical difference? NO! but a difference none the less in a decrease in the noise floor and or more of a silent backdrop. Again its what I hear & your results and or opinion may differ, to each their own I guess. To me, my investment in equipment justified, in my gullible mind🙄, the further investment in AC accessories. I for one won’t go back to not using the power conditioner and upscale power chords. I think everything matters and can collectively increase the performance of your system to a certain extent if one takes the time to experiment and listen. You can always return or sell something that you find made no difference. That being said, ultimately no two persons will hear the same thing. Only you can know if these things matter, as the results obtained are subjective.
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