What 4 subwoofers to buy?


I am using a pair of Klipsch Cornwalls from 1984 and a pair of Klipsch Heresys stacked on top of the Cornwalls. I recently bought a Klipsch R-115SW subwoofer and could not get any satisfaction from it. Too many room placement issues. So I kicked the subwoofer out of my listening room, being that I get better results all around without it.But I still desire an upgrade on bass performance and would not complain if overall speaker performance was increased. I have been reading alot  lately about the DBA thing, and without even trying it, I am positive that it will be the best thing for me. But I have come to a brick wall sort of speak in my search for which subwoofers to buy. I am not rich, so buying 4 of Rels best is out of the question. I know that Miller Carbon is always saying that quantity over shoots quality, but when I use manufacturer subwoofer mating tools, the results always comes back with their most expensive subwoofer for my system. One of my main concern is will 4 lower end subs be an enhancement to my system? I was going to buy 4 SVS SB1000s because they are very good priced for the quality and they also have the high level speaker input which I will need for hooking up to my vintage integrated amp. But as I was researching all of their other models, I noticed that only their 1000s had these hookups? I emailed them and asked why their other upper models did not have high level speaker inputs? They said that none of their customers have expressed the need for them? I am not sure how to understand that? Maybe most of their customers main interest is in home theater and not 2 channel stereo? I do not know? This is where I have come to a stand still in buying my 4 subs. Will 4 lower end subs work for enhancing my system or do I need to go higher up in the chain as far as quality is concerned? Any ideas, knowledge, experience and or opinions will be greatly valued. Thank you.
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An F series Velodyne? That was a time when real audiophiles snubbed subwoofers and a substantial improvement over my ULD.
@williewonka wrote:

" IMO - the more "sources" the less detailed the bass gets and it I do not believe it equates to FASTER BASS.either

"I always found the fewer drives the better - when it comes to HiFi.

"I think we’ll have to agree to disagree on this one - sorry"

Willie, I have NO PROBLEM with agreeing to disagree. Let’s do that.

But I hope you don’t mind if I try to explain myself a bit. Heaudio123 pretty much already said it, but here’s my version:

In the bass region, frequency response peaks take longer to decay than the rest of the spectrum, and therefore are literally and perceptually "slow". Also, the longer it takes for a sound to fade away, the louder we perceive it to be. So not only are the peaks louder, but they hang around for longer. Double whammy. By smoothing out the frequency response in the bass region a distributed multisub system results in much smaller peaks, so we no longer have frequencies which decay significantly slower than the rest of the spectrum. So we no longer have boom, overhang, muddiness from notes taking too long to decay. Hence my statement that "smooth" bass = "fast" bass.

Smooth bass also results in more DETAILED bass because frequencies which linger for longer (those nasty peaks) are what blur subsequent bass notes. The key to clarity in the bass region is how the notes decay - what we don’t want is notes which decay too slowly thereby masking subsequent notes. Bass trapping also addresses the decay of the notes, via a different mechanism. It is not at all obvious that multiple subs and bass traps have this common ground, so let me explain that as well.

According to multiple experts on acoustics and psychoacoustics (such as Floyd Toole and Sean Oliver and Earl Geddes), at low frequencies, speakers + room = a "minimum phase" system. What this means is, the frequency response tracks the time-domain response, and vice-versa. So where there is a frequency response peak, there is slow decay. And where there is slow decay, there is a frequency response peak. The good news is: When we fix one, we have simultaneously fixed the other.

Bass traps absorb energy and therefore reduce the decay time, and the more often a sound wave strikes the bass trap the more it is absorbed by it. This is how bass traps absorb more of bass energy that is decay more slowly (and thus striking it more often), thus smoothing out the in-room frequency response. I’ve already described that a distributed multisub system smooths out the in-room response, but in doing so, it simultaneously improves the time domain response, resulting in more uniform decay times across the bass region. Therefore, counter-intuitive at it may seem, bass traps and distributed multisub systems are working on the exact same problem but coming at it from different angles.

In my experience a distributed multi-sub system usually makes a larger improvement than bass trapping, but there may be situations where the opposite is true. And we can use both.

Like I said, I’m perfectly okay with agreeing to disagree. No need for you to explain your position, but I hope you don’t mind if I explained mine.

Duke
1 or 2 high quality subs would be better than 4 cheap subs because you would have to deal with inferior crossovers, high distortion amps, and poor cabinet design. This sums up to very poor & inarticulate bass, the exact opposite of what you want for music. I am not sure why your are stacking speakers on top of each other. I would think that this would cause blending issues. I think a single pair of the best set which I believe would be the Cornwalls and 1 or 2 very high quality subs would be the way to go. To get the benefit of the subs, blending and handoff are the key to improvement because you don't want to hear the subs. They should blend so well that you can't locate them. The speakers & subwoofers should sound as 1 functioning unit. Not an easy thing to pull off. Not quite sure how you would connect 4 subs speaker level. It's very easy with RCA's but 4 with speaker level would be a challenge.  With a little creativity, I figured out how to connect 3 RELs speaker level with my own system but RELs are a little different because your speakers run full range then you use RELS proprietary crossover to get the perfect blend. I would recommend REL, Martin Logan or JL Audio. Martin Logan is a particular stand out for having Anthem Room Correction, speaker level connections and starting at a reasonable of $650.00
You could consider 2 Klipsch KA-1000-THX amps each running dual  KW-120-THX woofers.  They can be daisy-chained, and the amps have continuously variable phase control and crossover frequency and a boundary gain compensation control.  Could probably obtain the whole kit used for $3-5K, and they'd be a good match with your heritage mains.