JVC tt-101 repair


Got a JVC QL-10 with a 120V TT-101. Speed is wonky. Sometimes plays fine, sometimes spins a 1000 RPM, somtimes runs forward & then backward. Could use some help.
128x128gary7
gary7 

Think I asked this question on the "other" site 
you mentioned 115 volt so it is a QL-10 since the TT-101
was not produced in that voltage.
It is the QL-10 plinth, minus the 7045 tonearm. Has a QL-10 badge on the plinth. The lable on the TT-101 lists voltage as 120V.
If it does it again get a solder sucker and remove all the old solder before re-soldering.  Mixing alloys can lead to failures especially on joints subject to stress like those are. 
Totem, No insult intended to you, but it sometimes irks me that people make authoritative statements that tend to mislead the OP.  Like Gary inferred, the QL10 was a package that included a plinth (insert model name here), the TT101 chassis, and usually a UA7045 tonearm.  So, if you buy a QL10, you get a TT101 in the bargain, along with plinth and tonearm.  (Since I own a QL10, I can find out the model name of the plinth, if anyone is interested.)  And the primary of the power transformer in my TT101 can be switched for 100V, 120V, and 240VAC input.  In my house, it runs on 120V.  So, in that way mine is like Gary's.  Someone else opined that those that can run on other than 100V were made originally for export and were sold at US military PXs in Japan and Asia.  I have no idea if that is true, but it makes sense.

JP, You might want to know that the little glitch at start-up of my TT101, which I reported to you a month or two or three ago, has evidently cured itself.  I've been running a very small space heater occasionally in our cool and sometimes damp basement where the TT101 lives, so maybe that did the trick.

Chakster and Gary, It is no discredit to Bill Thalmann that he was unable to fix my TT101.  It simply refused to misbehave while in Bill's shop, on two separate occasions.  One could hardly expect him to fix a problem that did not present itself.  It was only after I tried to fix it myself, and my blind tinkering caused what was an intermittent problem to become constant, that the problem got solved (albeit by JP).  I still hold Bill in the highest regard.

Gary, Even if re-soldering all those eyelets proves to be a cure for your issue, I still recommend attention to those electrolytic capacitors and also re-calibration.
"Gary, Even if re-soldering all those eyelets proves to be a cure for your issue, I still recommend attention to those electrolytic capacitors and also re-calibration. "


I very much intend to do that. I’ve talked to a fellow in Nashville who sounds like it’s up his alley. As far as the eyelets, I did not add any solder to them, just re-flowed what was there.