Zu Omen or Tekton Lore


Best floorstanders under $999 for low power SET amp?

Thanks
mstark
It looks like the Tekton Pendragons are being spec'd with the 8 ohm driver on the website now.
some pics of my M-Lore, im liking the satin white finish, cabinet quality is pretty good considering the price

got it hooked up to a decco2, as for the sound, i'll have to post some thoughts later on, after more listening

http://i44.tinypic.com/2yvq5xh.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/a32iv.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/2csgcxi.jpg
I installed the wool tweeter deffractors today.
They did make a small difference,they seem to take the edge off and add a little air and texture/detail to the top end.
Well worth the $4.00 for the pair from Madisound.
I'm pretty much done now.
These speakers are the best I have ever owned.
I have been thinking about Pendragons but I do live in a condo and the Lores shake the walls as it is even at a watt or two.

I still may though...
is anyone here an international buyer? just wondering as I'm a little nervous about freight costs. I did ask Eric but didn't recieve a reply. I could call but time differences and it costs a bucketload...figured someone might be able to help out.
Well, I wrapped things up today on the Lores.
On the rear wall where there was once fiberglass I used a product from DynaXorb a product of Dynamat. It claims to break up the rear reflection using technology from the stealth program and after looking at it and hearing the results I believe them.There is far clearer bass in Raising Sand (Sister Rosetta goes before us)

I used all mills resisters and they have brought far better detail to the mid-range, wind and string instruments have far more life and vibrato.

I mounted the whole X over on dampening board.
Everything is fantastic there is only one thing I am going to try.

Wool felt tweeter dampening rings.
I AM SO HAPPY with the Lores.

If Ferrari made speakers I'm sure they would sound like Lores!
All good guys. The credit goes to the Lord. I finally have peace and it is all about the music. Was listening to some Chris Tomlin tonight on the Pendragons. With just 10 watts in a mid sized room, the bass is tight with so much definition and weight... And the soundstage is expansive, much like a live performance. Awesome! And I am not in a honeymoon phase here....
I wanted to see the difference the upgrade caps made.
So I reinstalled the stock tweeter caps in one speaker for the day.
I was able to do a direct A/B comparison.
The thing I noticed is the factory caps upper end seems to roll off by comparison.The caps themselves lack some of the finer details and the very top end seems less distinguishable and veiled.
The level of detail is still very very good but not as much sparkle and sizzle as with the upgrade caps.
The painful part of the upgrade is in the burn in,I have realized the Lores are so sensitive and unforgiving of a bright or green cap that what is a little annoying in a average sensitivity speaker is magnified several times over.
When the new caps settled down all is good and I hope to be buttoning everything up today.But if you do a cap change in the Lore use a timer and give them 200 to 400 hours to smooth out before panicking.And don't pick caps that have a reputation for being bright of overly etched.If you want an upgrade that is pretty safe I would try Daton,Solon but my premium choice would be Ansar out of the U.K. inexpensive very smooth and neutral,there 600v models are priced like Solon,there 400v with 99.99% silver leads are the SPA audiophile version and they are under $6.00 per cap. And they use tin not zinc to attach the leads to the foil.
Thay are a premium capacitor at a give away price and some one is selling them here in the U.S. on Ebay now.
In changing caps in the Lore be patient.
These speakers will show even the smallest change,both good and bad.

Gpowered, the best recommendation I have ever received in high-end audio. I know we have been talking mostly Lore and Pendragon, but the 4.5 monitors are just as outstanding as above in their category. There isn't a better desktop, small room monitor near its price ($329.00), and in MHO you'd have to spend many times that price to get all it's positive attributes. Long break-in, but well worth the wait. I'm extremely surprised by the quality of its bass given the speakers small size and overall just a great small speaker. Thanks Eric, thanks Gpowered for letting us know about these speakers.
Now, I wish I could lay claim to the review. Heck, I might even start a Blog or become a publisher but the credit goes to Socrates7. Now, if someone has an extra pair of Pendragons just lying around, I'll be happy to review them too.
Finsup: Thanks for the awesome write up. You got the first pair of 8ohm Dragons and I the second and I am still smiling. Your review was spot on with my experience. I love the fact that they are so musical with good and not so good recordings. I have mine paired with a Decware Torii and I highly recommend that you try the pairing if you can get your hands on one. Keep up the good work on the blog and we will keep reading:).
Appreciate the feedback. The writeup was the longest I've done yet. ;-)

They're really nice speakers, I will admit that freely, and I had a lot of fun reviewing them!
Not sure this'll work, but I've pulled a bit more together:

wp.me

another way to do it would be to jump directly to http://parttimeaudiophile.com

Nice write-up. Thanks for spending some time with these. I especially enjoyed the amp comparisons.
HI Rischa,
I used the Lores as have others on this thread with a SET and had phenomenal results. I am now pairing the Pendragons with a Decware Tori and I prefer this combo to a SET in my very large room as I like to listen to more dynamic music.
If you are pairing the Lores in a Small to medium sized room and not listening to complex music, then a SET will work beautifully.
I found the pairing of the Lores with the Mini Torii to be phenomenal in my bedroom. The combination was absolutely out of this world in a small room with any type of music.
As you can see there is no right or wrong answer. They are set friendly but it depends on your preferences and set up more so than the imitation of the speaker.

Rischa,
I have used a 18 wpc SET amp with the Lore's with great results. The Lore is a very efficient speaker that works well with very low wattage.
Gpowered is using an 8 wpc SET with great results.
If you have a large room, maybe you'll need the extra wattage. But for a small to medeum sized room they work well with low wattage amps.
Not sure this'll work, but I've pulled a bit more together:

http://wp.me/p1ae3a-q9

another way to do it would be to jump directly to http://parttimeaudiophile.com
"GPowered: which cables are you using?"

I am using JW Audio Reference Interconnects and speaker cable. They are cryo treated and cooked solid core copper. Hit Zman up if you want to demo. They are simply the best I have ever heard and not expensive. The Ref IC's are new and prob not on his website yet, but compared to the Signature (i used it for 5 mths or so prior), there is absolutely no glare or etch and they are natural as I have experienced. Soundstage is wide and deep - nothing left to be desired. So before you dish out a bunch of cash, I strongly recommend you give them a try. I never would have though these would have been what they are.
So, I know this is off the current topic, but the OP asks about the better speaker for SET's, yet I'm sure I read somewhere--either in this thread or one of the Lore reviews--that Eric recommends at least 20 watts for the Lores. Has anyone found that using low watt SET's with the Lore's provides poor results? There aren't many real-world affordable SET's that go above 8 watts or so.

Kinda bummed because I was looking forward to pairing the Lores with the new model Decware Zen Triode integrated that's supposed to come out this Spring.

Thanks for your thoughts.
Which cables am I using?
Interconnects?

http://www.whitezombieaudio.com/lacacanyacables.html

The very cables in the picture are one of my several pairs.
Morganc,
Keep in mind it is never a good Idea to use all the same manufacture capacitors in the same crossover.A common mistake.
More over it becomes a bigger problem yet when you run the same capacitors in parallel or in series as each cap make and modle has it's own sonic signature. Some caps are very detailed and etched some caps are just plain smooth,some may lack bass or be slightly rolled off at the top.Put any two of the same together and everything both good and bad can be exaggerated.The capacetor list for the Lores are Clarity Cap ESA, Obbligato Gold and Ansar SPA with silver leads.
All the caps I used are very large.You change out resisters just like caps I used Mills 12 watt but Mundorfs are great too if the values match.I also used Audison 14 AWG.Silver 214 and Sonus 214 from Italy for internal wire.
I hope this helps you,but if you are not sure what you are doing buy the parts you want and let Eric build your cross over using them as the man is good at laying things out nicely and his solder joints are well flowed and twisted together like hell man!
It is easier to copy his crossover on a new larger board from scratch than taking his apart in one piece and rebuilding it.And give break in some time,count the hours on a kitchen timer or stop watch. Best of luck!
Goraman: thanks for posting your thoughts and experience! I'm quite interested as I inquired with Eric about upgrading my Pendragons to better caps before shipment. However, I decided to delay my gratification a bit so to speak so that I can later appreciate the improvement:).

Would you mind sharing a few things: which caps did you like the best and what size are they? How do you change out the resistors in the crossover?

And which cables are you using btw?

Thanks for the 411.

GPowered: which cables are you using?
I have spent more on cables over the last ten years than I am ever willing to cop too.
Let's just say I wish I had all that money back.
The cables I have now are not a cheap date but not $3,300 for a meter ether.But sounded 99.9% like them.In fact it was nearly impossible with most recordings to tell the two apart A B testing on an Audio Note U.K.single ended rig.
So I'm not eager to buy something I will more than likely
chuck in one of my pile o audio plastic bins.
No disrespect,I just don't feel the need to resurface an all ready smooth road.I can say I like solid core Silver or copper over stranded anything with only one exception.
I am using the same cables as Stevie Nicks and Pat Boon.
There doing just fine with the Lores.



Rocky,
If your Lores are Bone stock and positioned level with your floor,your probably experiencing something different.
The Lores are not a laid back music from the lobby or parking lot presentation,they make me feel as if I am 6 to 8 cocktail tables away from a live Blues band in an intimate night club.
They are a forward sounding speaker.End of story.
But not forward in an uncomfortable way with my amp ect...
If the top end is what bothers you, there is a mod to tame it.And you can tailor it to your ears.
If your speakers have less than 200 hours I'd recommend giving them more time to break in.And Eric is a wealth of knowledge so keep him informed as you go.

Guys - since we are on the subject of cables, do yourselves justice and hit ZMAN up. His cables are simply THE BEST I have heard with the Tektons. This is not an advertisement for him - it is down right silly to not try as he is one of our brothers here, and because his cables are NOT expensive and I am telling you that are amazing. Cryo and burning treatment makes some really interesting changes for the better. He just came out with a new SIGNATURE interconnect that is as natural as I have heard - no glare or etch whatsoever. You may think you don't have this issue, until you try a set of these and then its wake up time. At least that's what i experienced.
Im following your posts quite closely Goraman.
I too find the Lore's a bit like you have explained.
Please keep us updated with your progress.
I have sent off an email to Eric(before I read your posts) asking if he had any tips/mods I could perform to tame the Lores a bit.
I am finding them a little forward/agressive at times. Not sure if that is the terms for it.
I find if I turn them up a bit, I seem to always be looking to adjust the volume all the time.
Love the bass and midrange but something about them has me swapping them out for another set of speakers I have here.
Its long term listening sessions that they don't quite do well with me.
Wow! since leveling them and letting them run in some more from sun up to sun down over the weekend and for 2 hours I ran the volume at 12:00! somewhere around 10 watts!
Suddenly the high end went flat so I removed the resistor I added to the tweeter to drop the spike by 2 db. and still no glare,seems the new caps smoothed out and the sibilance just vanished as fast as it came.They got another 38 hours just since last week end of break in time.So now I have more caps coming,they can just sit,no more cap rolling!
All I am going to do now is go in and remove the Xovers and clean everything up,replace the resistors with Mills non inductance and there done!
In the end it will all be worth the trouble but one piece of advice is be very careful to select neutral capacitors and give them some time to smooth out. Mine took close to 90 hours.
Funny thing is when I first put them in no sibilance but they went through a 50 hour or so stage where you couldn't stand them,I seriously hope this is it and they are done with no more surprises! This is the most radical burn in I have ever encountered,although I did have a similar issue with clarity cap SA a few years back as they lost the top end for a while and suddenly it emerged after a couple weeks of use. So I guess I shouldn't be to shocked.
One of the problems was due to my positioning,I tipped them back,Eric said that would spike the tweeter by as much as 3 db. After leveling them it helped alot.
The other issue is with a bright pair of caps soon to be swapped. I am not blaming anyone for the sibilance and I'm surprised no one else has made a capacitor upgrade and chased these issues already. My advise would be to use very neutral caps Clarity cap,Ansar,Daton,Solon as any peak in the upper mids creates a problem.
I agree John,
No sibilance at all with the Lores or Pendragons in my system. They are the least fatiguing speakers I have ever owned or heard and I have a very sensitive ear due to Tinnitus.
It has taken me a while to understand the concept of synergy, which in my mind means that as I change one component, I.e. speakers I may have to change the associated cables, amp, Pre amp etc to maximize the end result, which for me is that golden magical moment. It has nothing to do with a measurement for me, but just trusting my own hearing and a lot, I mean a lot of trial and error.
I too have never put much effort into my cables, but am now opening up to that possibility. I have nice quality cables now, but I have not A/B tested any in the past. However with highly sensitive speakers, and in a 100 year old Victorian building, I have found power conditioning to be of the utmost importance. I use an UberBuss and love it. I have also spent a lot of time, energy and money to match amp, Pre-amp, and DAC with my room and my speakers. There are so many variables in any system that the tweaks are limitless! From speaker positioning, to cables, etc. etc....
I am curious about the effects of Capacitor changes on the Tektons, and I even discussed options with Eric as he was building a pair for me, but I decided to wait due to the cost, and in the end I did not feel the need to change anything.
Read a little up stream,I have used the same configuration with several pairs of speakers and had no sibilance.
I was fortunate a few years ago to be able to compare some of the most expensive cables of the time and even Audio Note Sogon made only a subtle difference at best and the gear used was worth more than my house several times over.
It is funny that using lab grade test equipment has never measured a difference in the frequency response from one interconnect or another as long as they are constructed correctly.And if you can show me different i'm open but interconnects and power cords are not magic wires.
Although I have all silver in teflon speaker cables,inter connects and PS audio 8 and 10 Awg. power cords.
Capacitors do however make a measurable difference up to a couple of DB. in some frequencys. I will not go into an endless cable debate.Sibilance lives in the 8khz. range and if the big new cap I put in peeks in the upper mids where the tweeter peeks to 101.5 db. output around 8khz. I very well could be over 103db! at a very sensitive frequency.
I am pretty sure of the problem and I'm just awaiting parts.
Did you look at the graph of the tweeter response?
If no one else has sharp SSS and TTT it would almost be a act of God looking at the steep climb of the tweeter it's self.The caps used nearly need to have a recessed upper mid range just to control the top end of the female voice.
Eric did a great job of balancing this tight rope but upgrading caps can upset the apple cart.
I would leave the Lores alone unless you are willing to stay in it for the long run.There is more detail to be found in the top end (sizzle) but the proper balance is critical and may not be cheap.I am willing to roll as menny caps as it takes.
I am all ready upgrading resistors,Mills and possibly Mundorf,Audison internal cable ect...

Goraman, it seems you are the only one that is complaining about sibilance. It seems that there may be something upstream that is causing the problem.
I also disagree with the fact that cables make a small difference. Cables could be your problem. I wonder how you came to the conclusion that caps are the problem.
I never had sibilance with my lores at all, the only time I've ever had a sibilance problem in the past was when I changed out cables or power cords.

John
JW Audio
Cables make very small changes,This change needs to happen at the capacitors.I ordered Clarity Cap ESA as with their SA caps they are ruler flat and don't favor upper mids and highs.
Hi all ! I agree with Mikirob , mine sound wonderful with 50 watts of triode from the Cary V12 ....no harshness at all with any recordings . I did get one of my Paramount monoblocks completed and hooked up one channel...lets just say I am very sure it will take my system to a whole new level when I finish the other one . Maybe a darker sounding cable will get you to where you need to be?
I've had good luck with Silnote Reference IIs, Alpha Core Silver Saphine and home-brew Cardas as recommended by Jeff Day. For speaker, been using PS Audio Statement, Kimber 8TC (older blue black variety) or Alpha Core Silver AG-1 Centerstage, and a home brew again via Jeff Day called White Lighting (sounds close to top line Cardas).
Wondering if anyone is using Morrow interconnects with their Lore's. I find particularly good synergy between the two in my system compared to the two other interconnects that are my usual references. The Morrow's are fast and compliment the Lore's potential speed. They restore some "audiophile detail" to the Lore's. A pleasant surprise being that I almost put them up for sale 2 months ago because they were 3rd best with my Vandy speakers.
One of the things Eric recommended seriously helped the problem.The speakers where tipped back 10mm raised at the front spikes,leveling them removed a load of glare and reduced some of the sibilance !
He also gave me some other ideas, more later.
Eric's customer service is really impeccable,not to mention e is just so dammed likable.
I have been into audio for years and it's been a very long time since I have met someone with his passion for all tings musical.
I like my Lores best with my Cary 280 V12, 50 watts of push-pull triode. No glare or sssssibilance at all. For me everything is just right. My Cary 300SEI is also great and the Primaluna Dialogue1 just a tad and a half behind the former two. Even with my Jolida FX10 EL84s there was no sibilance or glare. My office room is 14x16, main room about 16x26. Once broken in these Lores are one of the best bargains in audio. Mega kudos to Eric Alexander.
Sibilance you won't find it with every recording.
Play some of the recordings I recommended,also if you remove the driver and look at the caps in your X over,you'll see that they are oblong not round and this means a higher ESR possibly masking/hiding some of the spike.

A capacitor costing under a buck vs. $25.00+ will certainly be more revealing.

I will link the spikes.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=240-718&FTR=gold%20spikes%20dss4-g

I would like to see what you did with the Dynamat.
got pictures up anywhere?
Wow, I was just here yesterday and there has been a lot posted since.
I agree these are excellent speakers, especially for the money.
Tilt - I put a thin nut on the front spikes so that the spikes could not be screwed in all the way. The back spikes are screwed in all the way, which results in the speakers tilted back slightly. I don't think I need to tilt back a lot because I'm about 8' from the speakers.
Goraman - Is there a link to the spikes you could post?

Dynamat - I posted about what I did with Dynamat Extreme in this thread on 1-10-12. It helps.

Manley Stingray - Goraman, I have a Stingray also, just purchased before Christmas. For those of you with SET amps and Lores or Omens I suggest you at least give a PP amp a whirl, you may like it. For me the SET does some things only SET amps can do, but the Stingray takes my system to another level. I built my SET, my sweat and tears are in there so I want to like it best. But...

Sibilance - I don't experience it with my Lores.
By the way Dynamat and fiberglass serves two different purposes.
The fiber glass absorbs and defuses the rear wave coming off the back of the driver cone and keeps the driver from ringing from directly reflected out of phase sound waves.

The dynamat simply deadens any resonance from the cabinet it's self and reduces cabinet ring or harmonics from the cabinets resonate frequency.

To much dampening can have negative effects on a ported cabinet and I think Eric has found a sweet spot as far as dampening and porting.
The Bass seems layered and tight,not very far off from a sealed cabinet IMO so I really don't think I would mess with that because if the speakers go dead Dynamat is near impossible to compleatly remove.
That forward guitar sound is just what I'm talking about,try playing White Rabbit or Soak up the Sun and you will see what I mean.
Not all female vocals will have this problem but recordings like Famous Blue Rain coat will point it out.
A good read here. http://www.audiolofftreport.com/speakersound.html

That upper mid range glare comes right at you.
As for sound treatments the room is carpeted no hard wood floors,acoustic ceiling and 8X16 Sq.ft. sound treatments.
Amp Manley Labs Stingray in Triode input tubes Mullards,output TAD EL84 STR interconnects White zombie audio La Cacanya (silver Teflon) Speaker cables (7 Awg silver Teflon).
Source a very modified 500gig. first gen. Apple T.V. linked by an all glass Tolsink cable to a little dot Dac 1.Apple loss-less files.
I also tested using my Music hall level 1 mod.CD25.2
To find the same thing.
I do like the idea of Dymamating the inside only where the fiberglass currently is but careful not to over dampen as you could deaden to much.
I came from a first class vinyl rig to loss less file as a way of making room for a new son.
So I know what artifacts can come from both analog and digital but this node lives with in the tweeter i'm pretty sure,having said that not every production run of any component is exactly as the one modeled and graphed and that's why guys like Henry Kloss believed in hand tuning by ear as the final finish,but at $999.00 a pair that's asking a bit much. They are not $7,000 dollar speakers.
Eric, dose a remarkable job in coming very close to the best at a give away price and there is a need for his place in the market.
Being a father now I can't go run out and spend thousands on my hobbies but I can get the musical speaker I have ever heard and spend a little time taming a little peak to make them just how I want them to sound.
I have always hated 99th row performance of todays high end audio (live music dose't sound like that.The Lore sounds like your 5 or 6 tables away from a live band in an intimate night club and that is just what rocks my boat.
When I get them sorted out I'll wright more.
What's your placement like, Goramon? I find tilting them up a bit above the listener's ear greatly smoothed things out for me and added lots of ambience and soundstage depth too. I've been meaning to try opening them up and dampening the cabinet with Dynamat, as I suspect that would help with the last bit of imaging and soundstage. They're excellent stock, but there are still occasional times when an instrument, usually electric guitar, sounds like it's coming straight from the speakers and not from the rest of the soundstage.
The replacement caps where the Obbligato gold and Clarity Cap ESA and the shunting cap a Clarity Cap SA.
The internal wire I used is Audison 14 awg. Silver and Sonus for the long run from the binding posts to the X over.
I chose this wire because it is self dampening and non micro-phonic important inside a speaker cabinet.
I also will be upgrading to all mills 12 watt resisters shortly.
http://www.madisound.com/store/manuals/TW025A28.pdf
Looking at the tweeter response graph this tweeter goes from 99.2db. at 3,155khz. to 104.7khz. 14,090 then drops some as it gets to 20,000. Leaving a very large peek at from 5,000 to 8,000 where sibilance occurs in femail vocals and glare slaps you in the face from alot of instruments.
At first it seems like there is some extra detail but it doesn't take log before it starts to bother you.
I believe the tweeter is 90 degrees out of phase so from where the 10 uf cap and resister meet,I soldered a 50 ohm resister to the positive marked wire on the tweeter and this will shunt to ground stopping any oscillation as well.
End result a 2 db. drop from 5.5khz. to 10 khz.
I am going to try a Mills 12 watt 56 ohm and see the results,when my parts come in.
Aside from the runaway tweeter that will soon be tamed down where it needs it, these are the best speakers I have heard in menny ways. They far exceed there price of $999.00+ shipping.
BTW I also went with the gold Dayton Audio adjustable speaker spikes DSS4-G They alow you to slightly tilt your speakers back and they look great with the white cabinets and gold tweeter!
Eric said the mod is unorthodox but it works and IMO the Audax tweeter is unique and a little unorthodox as it's response is anything but flat!
The speakers are still my favorites but my opinion is they need hand tuning to bring out the most they can be.
Thanks for the great info. Wow, you have really been through a journey. Curious: what are you running on the front end (source, pre, amp, etc.). Wondering how much of this is related to that or the room, etc. I say this because I never experienced with my my former Lores - the Audax was a great tweeter. I remember my top end being free of all sibilance with Quicksilver Mini Mites and cary Cdp-1 for source. The Pendragon as well, even with a lesser amp, but my room is also treated a bit so maybe I am a little spoiled with that, yet not the whole story because I've heard sibilance in this room with a different speaker. Sibilance is one issue I have never experienced with these, but when I did in the past it was usually a front end issue. I remember experiencing this with Paradigm speakers, but then again my electronics weren't up to snuff then either. Are you running tubes? Keep us informed...
I have owned my Lores for about 4 months now.
I will start by saying they are a great speaker for the money.
The thing they do best is well balanced bass and male vocals.
I no longer need my Epos sub woofer($800.00) built for 2 channel down to 20hz.because the Lore's will reach down into the 20hz. range at 10 watts using a tone sweep cd.just enough to fill in the lower octaves in music.Don't expect menny speakers to do this I'm not claiming a pure 20 hz. signal will shake your house but it is there enough to give Bass 31hz. and up a nice rich added layer of bass not found in most speakers there size and there is no big 60hz. spike like cheap ported subs not great for music.
I have made some major changes to my Lores as I felt there was a huge spike in the upper mid range and I am still working on this with Eric being very supportive all the way.
I have owned alot of speakers and after my son was born I had to get rid of my Sound Labs as having 800 volt electrostatics around a rug rat just won't do, so I was using a pair of recaped older Missions in the mean time.
A freind who owns Zu Omens recommended trying a pair of Lores so in late October I got them.
After 40 to 50 hours of break in a small issue occurred over a weekend,nothing big enough to go into, but I decided to recap the crossover with upgrade caps of the same value UF.
And while I was at it I used upgraded internal cable.
After that the top end did open up and it even sounded more analog,smoother but the bump in the upper mid range was still there only smoother.
The biggest issue I have had is in upper octaves of guitars,harmonicas,violins and female vocals being to sibilant my guess is something is peaked from 4khz. to 8khz.
causing to much bloat there.
Eric has been very helpful with this.
At the advice of a friend well educated in these things He recommended a small mod to tame this node,and it has gotten better reducing the peak from 5.5khz. to 10hz. by 2 db. and solving the problem for menny recordings but Gray Slick is still sibilant in White Rabbit and Sharl Crow's Soak up the Sun also Jennifer Warrens Famous Blue Rain Coat.
I am still working with Eric on this and we will get it resolved but I think the problem is not really in the crossover but the tweeters response I pulled up the tweeter specs from Madisound to find the tweeter rises like a flight of stairs, great above 15hz. where most of us have reduced hearing but a real bad thing where femail vocals are as it makes them sound overly ssssispy.
It's hard to say if my changing caps made it worse or just removed the vial making it more noticeable.
More later.