Wire gauge.

Steve, Thanks for the info!

That's exactly what I was asking in so few words in my post. 😁

@danmar123 - gauge can make more of a difference if you are using a stranded wire.

• i.e. you will need a heavier gauge to handle the transient peaks of the lower frequencies

If you are using solid wire...

• then the Gauge selected can be lighter

For example,

• for the lower frequncies
  • The gauge required for a stranded wire might be 12 gauge
  • But the gauge for the Solid wire could be as low as 16 gauge
• for the higher frequncies
  • I have found 18 or 20 gauge to provide excellent results

Checkout - http://AWG - American Wire Gauge Current Ratings (engineeringtoolbox.com)

What is more important is that the metal of all the wires within the speaker is the same, otherwise you may experience timing issues and phase shifting between the lower frequencies and the higher frequencies (i.e. depending on the efficieny of the drivers used), which could impact imageing and clarity

UP-OCC copper is extremely good and at these power levels, the imrpovements between using UP-OCC silver vs. UP-OCC copper could be more difficult to discern, depending on the resoution of the system

I have made my own DIY cables for many years and after lots of experimentation

1. solid UP-OCC silver is great for interconnects because the signal is very small i.e. compared to the signal output by the amplifier
2. solid UP-OCC copper used in the signal conductor of speaker cables and the Live conductors of power cables will provide excellent perofrmance and save you a bundle
   1. at these power levels the difference between UP-OCC silver and UP-OCC copper is hadrer to discern

One thing to consider - what gauge is required?

• in my cables I have tried 2 x 16 gauge, 2 x 14 gauge and 1 x 12 gauge for the signal wires
  • in my system with my speakers -
    • I was unable to discern any difference between these three options
• HOWEVER - If the speakers you are using have a low impedance i.e. lower than 4 ohms - then you might want to consider a heavier gauge
• Many people will cite using a heavier gauge helps across the board, but in order to make a valued assessment you have to know
  • whether the wire they are referring too is standed or solid
  • what type of copper is used, OFC or UP-OCC
    • UP-OCC coper is about as good as you can get and
    • you can use a slightly lighter gauge and still get great performance
  • what type of speakers and amp is used
    • high or low efficiency speakers
    • High current output amps
  • whether the amp has balanced speaker outputs
    • where both +ve and -ve carry the same voltage, but 180 degrees out of phase
    • This technique if sometime referred to as a Symetrical Balanced Design
    • For these amps it is important the +ve and -ve conductors are IDENTICAL
    • They are very good at driving difficult loads
    • Some amps using this technology can be found here
      • http://www.image99.net/blog/files/b4dd81de6d4c72aa5052e5692987a506-81.html
• While I have referred to using a specific wire for the Signal wire I have not mentioned what wire I use for the Neutral wires
  • Interconnects - 1 x 16 gauge UP-OCC copper
  • speaker cables - 1 x 10 gauge silver plated mil-spec
  • Pwoer cables 1 x 12 gauge Stranded UP-OCC copper

Solid wire is ideal for speakers because

• there is no flexing once installation is complete, i.e. the wires are not subject to fatigue and breakage
• they are more capable at handling the higher powered transient peaks of the signal

And lastly - the Insulation of the wire is important because of the value of Dielectric Constant - or Dk.

• Teflon is 2.2, Foamed Teflon is 1.45, Cotton or Silk is 1.3, Air is 1.1 and a vacuum is 1.0
• Using a bare wire in Teflon tube is best, because it results in a Dk of around 1.5. because the wire is only ever touching the inside of the teflon tube a a single point along the length of the cable
  • I use a Teflon tube having an internal diemeter of between 25% and 30% larger than the outside diameter of the bare wire
• Failing that, I would highly recomment a cotton or silk insulation
• What is the impact of selecting the righ insulation?
  • improved clarty, details and image

Apologies for the long post - it’s probably more than you wanted to know about wire

But if I were opening up my speakers I would want to make sure I only did that once and installed the very best wires available,

Regards - Steve.

Thanks for your suggestions. I was bouncing around OCC silver. 18g-tweeter, 16/14g for mid driver & 12g OCC copper for the base. My crossovers are exposed & so are the drivers, so no need to solder. I was also curious about the gauge, if that would make a difference? 

If you’re already inside it, and evidently not fearful of wielding a soldering iron, you could fully experiment with different gauges, materials and geometry.

You could drop gauge size for tweeters for example and a bit of trial and see what you like best?

I personally have copper ribbon, probably about 16AWG for speaker wires, I have photos in my system page. There can be distinct to often subtle differences in sounds produced by different materials in that part of the circuit, have fun.

You didn't ask about this though, I like Cardas Soldering Wire Quad Eutectic Silver Solder. Maybe you might like it too?

I even put Bybee bullets in between the crossovers and the driver terminals.

14 gauge Neotech UP-OCC solid copper in Teflon from Parts Connection. Runs about $7 per foot. I’ve used it on speakers and inside amps.