Lewm,
It SOUNDS easy....... Where did the SHIELD come from????????????? |
Lew, thanks for the info, I will just set up the cartridge and be able to get a pretty good idea with the volume control. I am just now arriving at the playground of cartridges and looking forward to playing. |
Rich, Cannot easily be done with ordinary benchtop tools. You need a test LP with a 1kHz tone recorded at a velocity of 3.54cm/sec or 5cm/sec (the two industry standards) and then you'd need a 'scope or a very sensitive AC voltmeter to measure the output. The LP is probably available, but most voltmeters are not sensitive enough to give you a decent reading. Keep in mind that the numbers are in fractions of a millivolt for MCs and a few millivolts for MM/MI. I have a scope and I think I have an LP, but I have never tried it. I usually measure the AC voltage of a test tone AFTER the first gain stage in my phono preamp. It's much easier there. (One thing of note: sometime in the last 20 years and without much fanfare, most companies switched from the 3.54cm/sec standard to 5cm/sec. Obviously, this inflates the voltage measurement by nearly 50% over the earlier standard. So, our vintage cartridges are even "hotter" relevant to our modern cartridges than their output numbers would suggest.) |
Hi, can anyone tell me how to measure the output of a cartridge? Thanks |
Hi Raul, I thought you had evaluated the AT20SS back in the early phases of this thread. You liked it a lot, but you seemed to like the other Audio Technica vintage cartridges better. (I can never remember the nomenclature, but they have 3-digit numerical designations, like 170 and 180.) Do you now think the AT20SS is competitive with those? Thanks.
Drew, as Raul will tell you, it IS easy, especially if you run the wires outside the tonearm proper. You only have to ground the shield to the preamp and the tonearm body to the preamp as well. The cartridge per se does not need to be grounded at all. Raul has photos. |
Hola Raul!
I have followed this thread and your own search for audio heaven. You have helped me along the path. I have looked at the posts and your photos on how to use an external tonearm rewire direct to my phono stage. Please explain about grounding (if any), hum and all information I need to eliminate ALL solders between cartridge and phono preamp. I'm concerned about using straight tonearm wire direct to phono preamp. It sounds too easy.
Sincerely, |
Dear friends: I'm testing the Audio Technica AT-20SS that in its time was the AT top of the line: unexpexted top quality performance, more latter because I'm just receiving my AKG P100LE from VdH ( exited about. ): finally!.
Regards and enjoy the music, Raul. |
Thank you both! One fun thing is the sh-90s headshell that was included. It's meant for p-mount cartridges and has a similar build quality and constuction as the integrated headshells I've seen on the 205C Mk3 and EPC-100c. It doesn't really allow for azimuth adjustment, but it does have a nice overhang adjustment feature that is convenient. I have a three other pmounts I haven't gotten around to playing yet because I didn't have a way to mount them, so this will help kill the time in a productive way while waiting for the cart to return from VdH:-). |
Dear Mab33: I'm sure you will be delighted with the Technics quality performance. Congratulations!
regards and enjoy the music, Raul. |
Mab33,
You lucky so and so (I'm also assuming it was at a very reasonable price!).
Enjoy |
Yes I bought it. It's on it's way to VdH for repair. Looking forward to its return... |
Hi All,
Just noticed that someone recently sold a Technics EPC P100c Mk cartridge here on Audiogon. I'm curious to see if anyone from this thread was the lucky buyer? I bet it wasn't cheap: even with damaged cantilever.
Some lucky boy/girl for sure |
Jb0194,
Good luck with your testing and I look forward to hearing about how the combo works out. |
Regards, Dgob.
Thanks for your kind consideraton. ADC produced a number of sophisticated stylii, among them nude elliptical, line contact, nude micro ellipse, nude line contact "vital", HE, Shibata and Aliptic semi-Shibata (what ever that is). Your XLM Mk 11 is reported to be the best in the XLM lineup.
With the variety of stylus designs available, I'd like to know more about them before making a selection. Any information would be appreciated.
Also, a possible correction to the Black Widow's specs. The first version was documentated by Infinity at 3gm eff. mass, IIRC, the later graphite arm with the damping option was given at 4gm.
|
Dgob,
Your post is quite informative, as is Timeltel's about the Black Widow.
The 6.05 mV output of the XLM is on the high side given the gain of my Bottlehead Eros; otherwise, I'd be interested in buying your cart.
Given the fragility of the BW MKII wand and wiring, I'm going to roll the dice with my Pickering (3.6 mV) and, hopefully, only have to swap out styli over time. No caffeine on arm/cart mounting and alignment day!
I'm waiting on an aftermarket DIN>>RCA tonearm cable, as I only want to mess with setup once if possible. |
Timeltel,
I can only repear that I have it on the authority of very good friends that the ADC XLM Super Mk2 is an unbelievable marriage with the Black Widow. I've never heard it myself nor owned the BW. I am mindful of the issue of collapsing Super Mk2's though.
On the other hand, I happen to own the ADC XLM Mk2 Imporved and I believe this was designed to overcome the fragility concerns with the Super Mk2. I bought mine new and have only ever played it for around 5 hours. I'll be selling this along with a host of other mm's. If you would be interested in trying this out without making a commitment and before buying anything contact me offline. |
Regards, Lewm: Eff. mass for the B. W. is 3gm, lateral friction 0.01, vert. friction 0.005gm, all measured at the stylus. Strong bass, nice sense of air. Midrange response was uncolored, the B. W. was considered superior to the SME in definition and with it's SME style sliding base was an easy transplant for pre-drilled units, thought of at the time an improvement over the ubiquitous Shure arm.
Largely immune to feedback from acoustic resonance, care with isolation needs to be taken as it can be microphonic to mechanical disturbance.
Knife edge bearings for vertical movement provide excellent tracking on warped discs, all B. W.'s I've seen have about 1 mm of vertical "slop" in the bearing seat. Ball bearings for the horizontal pivot are tight, the arm is easily adjustable for VTA. Capacitance for the supplied patch cord was 50 pF for 1.5 meter, the connection was a straight 5 pin DIN male plug.
First model was an aircraft quality alum. tube, sleeved at about 1/2 it's length to one of larger diameter. The intent was to disrupt the channeling of resonance at both ends, between the pivot and carbon headshell. Later version, "G" or "GF" had the industrys' first graphite fibre arm wand, sections of fishing rods were implemented by some for repair of damaged arms. The GF model also had a damping cup attached to the pivot housing, the paddle was clipped to the wand just ahead of the pivot and was adjustable for depth of immersion. With the right cartridge (certian Empire/Grace models) it can track accurately at 1/2gm VTF. Original wireing was silk wrapped copper of very fine gauge, as they were fragile it is unusual to find one that has not had the arm rewired.
The most popular application was on a Kenwood "500" series TT, the one with the resin/mineral composite plinth, this classic combination is still occasionaly seen.
Introduced at $200.00 and then rising to $400.00, production cost made it uncompetitive and it was discontinued sometime around 1984.
TAS issue #9 reports it was tested with Sonus, Supex, Micro Acoustics and the ADC XLM cartridges with improvement over other radial tracking arms in IGD and negative effects from warp/wow.
Now, about that ADC, no one here has any information to share? |
Dear friends: For you that are looking for a good Grace cartridge opportunity this one could help:
http://cgi.ebay.com/GRACE-F9-REPLACEMENT-STYLUS-VERY-RARE-/150466694240?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2308838c60#ht_500wt_1154
and for ones that are looking for a good AT cartridge this one is very good and in in NOS condition that's hard to get : http://cgi.ebay.com/Audio-Technica-AT15SS-/290453398234?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a05f22da#ht_500wt_1154
Regards and enjoy the music, Raul. |
Lewm & Dgarretson,
Many thanks for your responses to my post on grounding and external tonearm wiring. I think I know how to proceed now. Also, I have similar experience as pointed out by Dgarretson with "hum" on my AudioCraft AC4000 tonearm. When I touch the arm or approach it closely with my hand, there is a hum (60-120Hz). Thanks to suggestions from Raul, I checked and found out that the ground pin on the DIN socket of the arm has poor/intermittent contact, hence the arm was not grounded. So, this confirms Dgarretson's findings. Getting the arm's wiring fixed now but would also like to see if I can try some external wiring. |
Infinity Black Widow should be a great tonearm for these high compliance cartridges (very low effective mass, as far as I remember). Has anyone had actual experience with it? Raul? |
Thank you, Timeltel.
I do have a V15 type III stored away. I'll look into the JICO, as the Shure stylus has had much use. |
Hello, Jb0194.
Sonus Blue, Shure M97xE/HE or any V15, and in quoting a respected other (ref. my post from 07-10-10), an ADC XLM.
In a 1975 issue of "The Speaker", Boston Audio Society members highly recommended both the Sonus and the XLM-1, the B. W. was the suggested tonearm for either. In an upstairs rig, my first model B. W. is on a Tech. SP-25, the current M97xE/JICO SAS stylus is a good match for it, as was a V15-111/SAS. |
Franklin:
Agree with Lewm. The OEM headshell is rigid and resonance resistant, it has stood the test of time. You might however consider magnesium headshells as an alternative.
According to the VinylEngine library, eff. mass for the Mk-11 stock TA is 12gm., including 7.5gm OEM headshell. Cartridge wt. range with headshell is 13.5-17.5gm., you should be "good to go" with your Azden. |
Hi all,
I just acquired a NIB (!!!) Infinity Black Widow MKII tonearm, for use with my much-enjoyed Pickering XSV5000 cart.
Any other carts I should consider if curiosity gets the best of me?
My phono stage is a Bottlehead Eros, slightly higher gain than most MM stages, and MI/MM carts with 4mV or lower output have synergized best with this component.
Your recommendations are greatly appreciated! |
Franklin, Find out the effective mass of the SL1200 tonearm. For the Azden you ideally want a low effective mass (10-11g or less), which can also be achieved with a lightweight headshell, if the stock one is too heavy. Or ask KAB; they know their stuff. In fact, I need to do the same. |
Isn't the "hum" from room lights (usually fluorescents IME) at a somewhat higher frequency than that which is usually due purely to bad grounding? I guess it's a sort of EMI, first cousin to RF. Anyway, I take your point. I was just trying to help out Ddriveman. |
Lew, The ground tab on some Empire and Pickering/Stanton cartridges is a foil that drains the cartridge body to one of the four cartridge pins. Severing this tab does not effect the coil connections. I have only done this with cartridges with all metal bodies and mounting brackets, where it is possible to reroute physical ground through the cartridge bolt.
The hum was associated with room lights and proximity to AC wall wiring, and also sometimes touching or merely approaching the arm or arm wiring. The hum varied somewhat from cartridge to cartridge. The new shielded harness entirely eliminates these effects. The new harness is wired same as the old harness, except for the addition of a shield around each strand that is floated at the cartridge and grounded at XLR.
I could write a very long & dirty limerick about the bedevilment of hum in phono. Suffice to say that it sucks. |
Dave, You wrote, "In my experience phono hum is typically picked up by exposed unshielded tonearm wires. Using screened tonearm wire and floating the screens at the cartridge end, deals with RF antennae effects associated with exposed wires. A separate physical ground to the cartridge body deals with ground hum issues unrelated to wiring. Some MM cartridges (Empire comes to mind) have a ground tab that connects the cartridge body to the negative pin of one channel. With a balanced phono stage I remove this tab and ground the cartridge body separately to XLR pin 1. I'm not sure whether this rerouting of physical ground of the cartridge body has made a difference, but it makes intuitive sense for XLR balanced operation."
To begin with, hum (meaning a 60Hz or 120Hz tone) and RF are two different phenomena. The former is usually due to lack of grounding or a ground loop. IOW, I don't think shielding or lack of same has anything to do with it, but I am ready to be corrected. Shielding protects against RF, which is mainly high frequency stuff. As to the Empire ground tab, which I have not yet encountered, if it is indeed connected to the pin on the cartridge output that is labeled "ground", then by connecting it to pin 1, you may be losing any advantage of a balanced phono stage. In other words, you convert the cartridge to single-ended output, even though you do have a balanced phono. (I don't know what or whether that tab is connected to.) If you removed the tab and grounded the cartridge in some other way, how did you do it? If you found a metal part of the cartridge body that is NOT part of the mechanism, then I guess you can ground the cartridge body without losing the balanced output. I wish Ralph would read this thread and comment. But perhaps I am re-stating what you meant to say in the first place. |
Franklin, I own Empire 875 XLT (same as Azden P50VL). From what I remember it is a very good match for technics 1200mk2 tonearm. Technics tonearm in average works best with its original headshell. |
Regards, Raul. On 02-04-10 Dgob wrote:
"Timetel,
Have you ever tried your Black Widow with an ADC XLM Super Mk2 (or other) and, if so, what are/were your impressions? Only I have heard very positive things from friends whose hearing and love of music I deeply trust."
I've developed confidence in ADC magnesium headshells (for EPA-250 TA) and several I've purchaced have come with cartridges. One, an ADC QLM-30 I did not care for. Another, an ADC Q361. Today I cleaned and inspected the Q361's stylus and was pleased to find it a nude elliptical on a tapered cantilever, and in good condition. Sounded pretty good for an elliptical too. Tried, the two stylii were exchangable. Piqued, I searched the internet and find this cartridge body is common to many different models, including the XLM-2's/3's, upgrade avenues are`through the stylus.
TTN.com has NOS ZLM (shibata) stylii to upgrade the cartridge to XLM-111 updated version. Jico offers a SAS version. Several reliable ebay merchants offer "genuine" replacements. That the ADC original is thirty years out of production is a factor. Compounding my dilema is that there are several NIB XLM's currently available, prices are close for any option. One concern is the reputation for failing suspension early XLM's have and another is, of course, performance.
Thanks in advance for any thoughts you (or others) may have, especially in comparing the XLM to cartridges frequently discussed in this thread. |
Lew, In my experience phono hum is typically picked up by exposed unshielded tonearm wires. Using screened tonearm wire and floating the screens at the cartridge end, deals with RF antennae effects associated with exposed wires. A separate physical ground to the cartridge body deals with ground hum issues unrelated to wiring. Some MM cartridges (Empire comes to mind) have a ground tab that connects the cartridge body to the negative pin of one channel. With a balanced phono stage I remove this tab and ground the cartridge body separately to XLR pin 1. I'm not sure whether this rerouting of physical ground of the cartridge body has made a difference, but it makes intuitive sense for XLR balanced operation.
A linear tonearm has more exposed wiring than a pivot arm, and thus may have inherently more problems with RF. Perhaps one reason why physical grounding of a pivot arm can be important is that the (metal) arm can thus acts as a shield that needs to be drained. But in rerouting a wire harness external to tonearm, a good RF shield around the wire is likely important. |
Ddriveman, I suppose you get the point by now that the cartridge per se "floats" in almost all cases, meaning the cartridge is not grounded. That is why a cartridge is an inherently balanced device; there is signal at each end. (In a single-ended phono stage, one side of the cartridge is defined as "ground" by the labels on the cartridge body and the orientation of the RCA jack.) So, the only thing you have to be concerned about is grounding of the tonearm body and/or the turntable chassis to your preamp, if indeed that is necessary. (In some cases, it's not.) There are a few cartridges that do have internal grounding; one of the brands that is commonly of that type is Decca. If you don't use a Decca, then most likely no ground is needed. |
I have ordered a KAB Technics 1200 MKII table with the Technics arm and the tonearm fluid damper modification. I have an usued Azden YM-P50VL cartridge. I wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts on whether the Azden cartridge would be a good fit for the Technics arm and headshell,and if so, if I should replace the Technics headshell with a different headshell. Thanks |
Ddriveman, Bulgin gold/copper socket SR3179/1 (Digikey pn 708-1095-ND) fits directly on the p-mount pin. The arse end of this socket solders to tonearm wire or serves as male into a std. cartridge clip. |
Ddriveman, In the case of the Trans-Fi harness, each teflon-clad 4N silver filament has a 30awg 4N silver mesh jacket. Single-ended requires two wires, with filament cores carrying positive phase for each channel and the jackets carrying negative phase tied to ground. XLR involves four four filaments and four discrete mesh jackets that float at the cartridge pins and are grounded at XLR. In addition, there is a fifth copper tonearm wire that runs from the cartridge bolt. Lots of tiny conductors that when properly dressed do not foul the arm! So far this approach has gotten rid of all hum. |
When using MC's, I have never had any issues with grounding noise of any kind using the wire without any shielding. With MM's it gets trickier, and grounding noise can be a real problem. I solved it this way:
The positive and negative runs of wire for each channel are twisted together for their entire length. The twisted runs then run "naked" from cartridge clips to just beyond the point where the wires make a loop over the arm pillar. From that point onward, each twisted pair of wires (+-) runs through a length of teflon tubing for the remaining length of wire. The teflon tubing is covered in copper mesh for shielding. To the preamp end of the copper mesh is soldered a six inch length of copper wire, with a clip at it's end. The copper mesh is covered with polyester mesh to insulated it. The clips at the ends of the wire harness get attached to the preamp's grounding post. Every system has different grounding requirements, and experimentation is the key. In my system, the above arrangement works great. |
Hi Guys,
When running an external wire on the tonearm, how do you handle the grounding wire? Do you just have the typical ground wire (the fifth wire) just attached to the tonearm body or shoudl we have a shield around the 4 cartrigde wiures running anlong the length of the armwand? I need a balanced XLR connection for my phono so grounding is important in my system. Any thoughts? Also has anyone found cartridge laeds that would fit the pin size of the P-Mount cartridges? |
Alex, I did not do a survey, but for what it's worth, I use ProGold to clean contacts and Walker SST Extreme as an enhancer IF the contacts are not going to get hot, as in a phono system. For tube pins that do get hot, I also use ProGold enhancer. There is no doubt in my mind that the Walker stuff (and perhaps other products like it, because I have done no meta-comparisons) really works great. The difference is immediately audible. One display of its effectiveness is irrelevant to audio; we had a bad contact on a 15W bulb in our chandelier. The bulb was constantly going off due to being loosened by vibrations from footsteps. I put a dab of the Walker on the threads and on the contact point, and that bulb has never even winked since. |
Hi Lewm, Re "if one uses a very good quality contact enhancer after carefully cleaning the contacts to remove oxidation", are you able to discuss any products that have worked for you out of the plethora of products out there?
Would be helpful for those of us that can't or won't run one string of wire direct.
Many thanks from Alex L |
No, AN wire is pure silver. In my experience, the beauty of the AN wire is that it has the clarity, and openness that silver can have, with beautiful refinement, and total absence of glare. The silver VDH wire that was original in my ET2 was harsh sounding by comparison. The AN wire has been, along with the motor controller for my TT, the single most significant improvement I have made to my analog set-up. Of course, the respective improvements are of a different nature. I can't recommend it enough. |
AN wire would be copper, I presume. Not that there is anything wrong with that. |
Lewm, I have not tried the "Ikeda" wire you refer to, and know nothing about it; sorry. My source for Audionote wire was Audio Federation in Boulder, CO. I always dealt with Neli, and she was a pleasure to deal with. The cost of 1.5 meters of wire, terminated with AN clips, and tinned at the preamp end was $290 delivered. Less expensive without termination. I cannot recommend this wire enough, it is fantastic. I will say, that it is extremely thin, but not particularly fragile. The pricing, as stated in the AN website, is a little confusing. Each run of wire consists of three individualy insulated, braided strands. What AN now provides, for the same cost, is the above mentioned X2. IOW, six strands per run. To give you an idea of how thin this wire is, the net result of the six strands is still considerably thinner than the Cardas. |
Frogman, Your wiring system is pretty much what I had in mind as the quick and dirty way to achieve "direct coupling". I believe that is what Raul is doing, too. Have you, or has anyone, tried the silver "Ikeda" wire that one can purchase from an eBay vendor (in quotes, because I am dubious regarding the provenance)? I am tempted, but the price is high. What is your source for "Audionote" wire?
My Triplanar is and always has been direct-coupled using Cardas 33ga wire. I stood and watched as Herb Papier (creator of the Triplanar) installed it for me in his basement. In his hands, this took about 5 minutes. In my hands, it would have taken an hour, AND I would have damaged the fragile wires in the process. IMO, this (direct coupling) is one reason why the Triplanar sounds so good compared to other tonearms that use one or more gizmos in the signal path. |
"It's tempting to think about cartridges primarily as signal generators of varying mechanical ability. Similarly we tend to think of tonearms mostly in terms of geometry and mechanics and not as electrical devices. Tonearm wire is usually accepted a priori without much reflection. Tain't so."-Dgarretson
Having rewired my ET2 three times over the years, I could not agree with Dgarretson's comment more. Since the first time I rewired the arm, I have used one continuous run of wire from cartridge clips to phono preamp; sometimes hardwired to the preamp's board. The first time I did this, the results were nothing short of revelatory. The elimination of several solder joints, or mechanical "bumps in the road" for the cartridges' signal path were fantastic; greater, in positive ways, than any cartridge change I had made up to that time. The improvements in clarity and refinement allowed the differences in the sound of various catridges to be much more obvious, and made the effects of the set-up of these cartridges much more obvious, and important.
The wire harness is always used externally, so no modification of the arm is required. I have done the same thing with my pivoting Syrinx PU3, which I use occasionally, using the same wire harness used with the ET2. The Syrinx's internal wiring remains intact (and not used), and the new wire harness is run along the outside of the arm's tube along the bottom of the tube, with a loop of wire (as with the ET2) over the arm's pillar. The wire is shielded from that point on, to the phono amp.
I have used Vandenhul, Cardas, Discovery, and currently, Audionote, which is IMO the best by far. But this is a different discussion. But I will say that I have always been surprised that considering the legths that many of us go to with tonearm/cartridge set-up, that this tweak is not tried more often. |
Tim, Raul has already done something like that, in a more brute force way. I also know of several folks who have drilled thru the tonearm/headshell connector so as to allow the wiring to go straight thru, thereby eliminating that junction. (Of course, in the process of doing that, you ought to re-wire the whole tonearm from cartridge to preamp.) I am going to try one or the other or both approaches.
In truth, though, with these high output cartridges and if one uses a very good quality contact enhancer after carefully cleaning the contacts to remove oxidation, it is my impression that very little is lost. (This is a position once held by Raul, if I recall correctly.) With MC cartridges, the bypass or elimination of all mechanical contacts is far more beneficial, IME. |
The improvement with the straight-shot wiring spun my head around and leads me question how we perceive the differences between cartridges and tonearms. It's tempting to think about cartridges primarily as signal generators of varying mechanical ability. Similarly we tend to think of tonearms mostly in terms of geometry and mechanics and not as electrical devices. Tonearm wire is usually accepted a priori without much reflection. Tain't so. |
Raul, regarding your point of agreement on eliminating the "seven filters/veils", I still sometimes wonder about detachable headshells and their additional connections. I know you favor them to allow "fine tuning" for mass and resonance in matching cartridges with given tonearms. But when you described your recommendation to eliminate the extra connections with a standard P-mount cartridge adaptor with direct connection to the cartridge pins and the benefits you heard in doing so I began thinking about the headshells again.
So I'm wondering about a possible solution when rewiring an arm. Carefully drilling a hole on the underside of the arm, just before the locking ring, could accommodate an extension of an additional length of the continuous wire. The wire could then pass underneath the headshell/tonearm joint to reach the cartridge pins. If done carefully this could preserve the advantages of a continuous wire (cartridge pins to tonearm wire RCA/XLR plug) while maintaining the advantages of the interchangeable headshell. |
Dear Dgarretson: +++++ " cable with a straight shot from cartridge to phono stage. This eliminated seven solder and mechanical joints all down the line. The improvement is greater than all the differences between the various cartridges that I've tried. " +++++
agree with you, a huge improvement with seven " filters/veils " less where the highly sensitive/delicate cartridge signal must pass. We have to remember that the cartridge signal " travel " to the end phono stage with out amplification and this make it more easy to contaminate/degrade over that " trip ".
I always said that we have try to lower distortions ( any kind ) in the audio system chain to improve the system quality performance and that mod ( straight wire to phono stage ) permit to preserve the cartridge signal with lower distortions. I have no doubt about: worth to try it!
Regards and enjoy the music, Raul. |
Raul, Have you (or has anyone) tried the "Expert" stylus repair service in the UK? (The name consists of two words; the first word is "expert".) That business is said to be the supplier to SoundSmith for their ruby cantilevers, but they have a proprietary stylus that is said to be excellent. |
Dear Raul,
Thank you for the thoughtful and thorough answer.
Sincerely, |