Dear Dover, You obviously overlooked the human rights issue. Everyone has the right to his own opinion as well the right to express his opinion. Now the problem is if this apply to whatever subject matter. That is to say reg. everything thinkable. I always thought that this right is the prerogative for the philosophers only. One can perhaps add some kind of lawyers to this 'category' because they are supposed to be capable to defend or accuse whatever there is to defend or accuse. This kind consist of attorney and prosecutors. Alas I am neihter of them so I have no opinion about the fuses. But if enyone is interested in particle physics ...
Regards, |
10-21-12: Rnadell This is a response from Roger Modjeski re: fuses. Rnadell - excellent post that everyone should read. So, how do you make your own silver fuses. Simply wrap the right size silver wire from post to post of the fuse holder and solder. « Last Edit: 13 Apr 2012, 06:03 pm by Roger A. Modjeski » I distinctly remember that Julius Futterman used hair-thin wires as fuses on his OTLs. I did suggest this about 40+ posts ago and was pooh-poohed. Never mind, I'm sure in post number 14684 or thereabouts the same discussion will be had again. |
Lew, Roger says he can build amps that work at any voltage. You should read the first link (above). Current/impedance requirements are also a major consideration. "Here is the run-down on what my direct drive amp can do. It can be made at any output voltage and I have a high and low current version because some ESLs draw very high currents due to high capacitance and some don't. This is just the same as the fact that speakers can be 2,4,8,16 ohms and anywhere in between. ESL speakers can be low capacitance, mine are just 100 pf. Beveridge model 2's are 4500 pF. That's a 45 to 1 difference, a much larger range than we see in cone speakers. In addition being capacitive the impedance varies inversely with frequency being lower at higher frequencies. When Beveridge went to transformer drive the result was a speaker that went from 100 ohms at 100 HZ to 1 ohm at 16 KHz. We had to find amplifiers that would deliver over 40 amps of current. These speakers were not suitable for most conventional amps tube or transistor. Roger Sanders makes a solid state mono amp that delivers 2000 watts at a cost of $8000 per pair."
"Thanks for report on an excellent comparison. Here are a few contributing factors. If played loud the Futtermans have not the current needed to drive Acoustats, especially ones 3 panels or larger. The impedance of any large, full range panel speaker is going to approach 1 or 2 ohms at high frequencies and Futterman amps put out nothing into 1 ohm nor do the tubes appreciate the task.
It is a long standing myth that OTL amps and ESL speakers were made for each other. This is true in one combination, the Futterman OTL and the KLH-9 which was a 16 ohm speaker that stayed pretty constant over the range. I have a copy of Julius Futterman's impedance measurements in my "Futterman File". He was certainly interested in driving this speaker as he measured its impedance at over 20 different frequencies. The advantage of his amp over others was it had lots of voltage which the KLH-9 needed. I am told that one of the classic listening tests was to compare the Futterman vs the Marantz 9 driving the KLH, particularly on Saturdays at Lyric Hi FI, NYC.
A Futterman can drive the QUADs or the Stax that airhead has but one has to be very careful not to exceed the maximum voltage which is 35 volts peak for the QUAD 57's and about 40 volts peak (100 watts from a 8 ohm amp) for the 63's. I do not know what the peak is for the Stax. I do know that most Futterman amps can put out 150 volts peak and therein lies the danger.
When Acoustat gave up on making their "Servo Amplifier" they went to a two transformer system, a system that is flawed in its very nature,. There is really no way to drive a single panel ESL with two transformers one being for the lows and one for the highs. One can split the band on the input side but they have to re-combine the bands on the output side and that causes the high frequency transformer to "see" enough of the low frequency information to cause saturation at higher levels and significant 3rd harmonic distortion at moderate levels. Although I don't have my measurements of the Acoustat Magnetic Interface handy, I do recall it is not easy to drive. It needs lots of voltage and lots of current.
Although rarely mentioned, the transformers in ESL speakers often eat up 25 to 50% of the drive energy due to their capacitance at the high end and saturation at the low end. When we eliminate them and the output transformer in a traditional amp and connect the tubes directly to the panels there is a great relief of work that the tube have to perform.
As you can see, from both a safety and sonic perspective, direct drive makes a lot of sense. When you can go directly to the panels, an ESL is actually easier to drive than a magnetic speaker."
Did you ever talk to him about Sound Labs? From his post, I got the impression that a Beverdige rebuild would include the complete amps, hence the price. With your OTL I don't know if the high voltage speaker transformer would protect your amp if a tube or capacitor failed. Regards, |
Fleib, You do have a point; my ESL panels have a step-up transformer, so it might be safe to do away with the fuse, but I believe that the fuse also protects the circuit of the amplifier.
Direct-drive OTL for Sound Lab has been discussed ad nauseam among the small circle of people who care about it. The bias voltage of Sound Labs is very high in comparison to most ESLs, something like 8kV to 10kV, so solutions that work for all other ESLs, with lower bias voltage, will not necessarily be sufficient for the Sound Labs. Believe it or not, I actually did speak to RM about this and about his design for the Beveridge amplifiers, which he is willing to rebuild, at very great expense. Since mine are not broken, I had no desire to drop several kilo bucks on a rebuild, but I am making some mods to the input and driver stages. The Bev panels, for comparison, only need 3200V for bias. I think other common ESLs, like KLH9s and Quads use bias voltages under 3kV. But when you look at the other compromises associated with direct-drive, the use of a step-up transformer is not so bad.
By the way, I misspoke, and I expected to get hammered for it. The 6LF6 does not have an internal fuse. I distinctly remember that Julius Futterman used hair-thin wires as fuses on his OTLs. He always supplied an extra set of these fuse-wires, which he taped to the inside of the chassis of each monoblock. I don't know what NYAL and other makers of Futterman type amplifiers did about fuses on the outputs. And truthfully, I am not sure about the output tubes that Modjeski used in the Beveridge amplifiers, 36KD6s, whether they are internally fused or not. |
This is a response from Roger Modjeski re: fuses.
I read with some laughter, dismay and sadness the follow up on Stereophile May 22, 2012. page 109 concerning the latest hype of Tuning Fuses. Besides my opinion that these are a horrible waste of good money I want to let readers know that these fuses can damage your equipment.
I repaired a RM-9 MK II where the owner had installed 8 of the $49 tuning fuses in the individual fuse holders of the amplifier. Besides spending close to $400 the fuses they cost him another $400 in repairs and $320 for a new set of output tubes. When fuses cost more than tubes something is rotten in Denmark (actually they are made in Germany.) Not only had the fuses not protected the tubes but they had also blown a cathode resistor that I have yet to see fail in any other RM-9. Upon opening the fuse I found that it was not of a high-breaking construction. In fact the construction was such that a 10 cent RadioShack glass fuse offered more protection. Whoever designed this fuse evidently does not know about breaking ratings or how to achieve them. To my knowledge they publish none of the essential engineering graphs of time VS current. Furthermore, I can see nor can I find anywhere UL, CE or any of the standard safety approvals. Given their construction, I doubt they could get any.
I called the distributor to see if there was any technical data and he referred me to a white paper on the website which is down for maintenance for a week. Let's have a look at that when it's back up.
I know it's difficult to do, but if audiophiles would take the money they are tempted to spend on useless tweaks and start a savings account for that money, in some time they would have enough to buy something like a better pair of speakers, new amplifier or something that would really make a difference in their listening.
Now that I have had my say, here's something you can do if you want to experiment. Since we know these are made of silver wire you can get a enough silver wire for $40 to make hundreds of fuses that sound even better and will protect your equipment. Since these fuses are only good for the AC line lets look at what a line fuse does and what you have to do if it blows. An AC line fuse will protect your solid state and modern tube equipment (Not your 1960's tube amp or any tube amp where there are no tube or B+ fuses) from further damage if a rectifier, main filter cap or any short in the high current portions of the product. This is a good thing. We don't want a shorted rectifier to cause capacitors to explode or transformers to burn up. However if either of these occurs, it's going to have to go the the shop to replace the shorted rectifier which is a very simple matter.
I have more audio equipment and test equipment in daily use than most of you and I assure you, other than nuisance blowing, AC line fuse replacement is a very rare event in my experience. For those who are unfamiliar with the term "nuisance blowing" it is a commonly accepted term for a fuse just wearing out. It is caused by the simple fact that every time a piece of equipment is turned on, the inrush current, which is many times the run current, expands the fuse wire eventually causing it to break. Usually it takes years and when a fuse fails in this manner one simply replaces it and goes on for another similar period. It is more common with fast blow fuses which are not good choices for line fuses for reasons given below.
Fuses are of particular interest to me and every time I replace a fuse I give consideration to what fuse I would have used had I designed the product. Though cautioned "replace fuse with same type and value as original" I often wonder how carefully the "original" fuse was chosen. I have seen a lot of bad fuse choices and have replaced many a fast blow fuse with a much lower current slow blow which often ends the nuisance failures and improves the safety of the unit. I have found many products where the specified fuse would not protect against a shorted filter capacitor or shorted rectifier because the fuse would not blow under those conditions. Instead the power transformer would overheat and fail, then it would blow the fuse. Now there is a lot of stuff to replace instead of the simple diode.
In the original RM-4 I did many tests to determine that the 250 mA slow blow fuse would protect against every possible failure. I shorted a rectifier to see what happened. I shorted a filter cap. I shorted the main supply which never blows a fuse because, unlike many regulated power supplies it is short-circuit protected.
So, how do you make your own silver fuses. Simply wrap the right size silver wire from post to post of the fuse holder and solder. « Last Edit: 13 Apr 2012, 06:03 pm by Roger A. Modjeski » Logged Thought this might be of some interest. |
Lew, I didn't say it's ridiculous not to bypass the fuse. It seems ridiculous to go for an OTL and then have a fuse in line with each output tube. These are OTL and not direct drive so you have transformers on the panels? You have Sound Lab spks?
I don't know the capacitance/power requirements of of your spks, but Roger does make a electrostatic system with direct drive amps. I think it's Acoustat panels. I had Acoustat panels in a biamp configuration with ribbon tweeters. Mine were Acoustat amps, rebuilt by Dan Fanny, formerly of AHT. He had to gut the entire amp except the power transformer. DD is the way to go with electrostats IMO. I know that Roger is currently making these amps and might be able to use it on your spks. Here he discusses the requirements of some diff brands: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=107869.0
Tuning fuses: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=105425.0
Sorry to come off so outspoken, but in truth, I think we're all nuts. (Sometimes I miss those amps though) Regards, |
Raul, Lewm - the in line solderable fuses in the military link above that Raul provided look like an interesting option, particularly in tube power amps that use fuses to protect output tubes. Elimination of additional connections and push fit joints with contact resistance should be helpful. Surely the elimination of fuseholders and soldering the fuse in line would be better than most fuses out there. http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/public/en/bussmann/electronics/products/cooper_bussmann_overcurrentovervoltagecircuitprotection/fuses_and_accessories/axial_leaded_fuses/mcrw_series_fast-actingwire-in-airsubminiaturefuses.html I see the Quantum redo the end cap material as well. This seems more scientific than most audiophile solutions. I have a friend who manufactures audio cable and in trialling connectors the removal of all plating yields significant improvements along with machining and polishing at all connections points. In other words go and get those lovely WBT's, Furutech's or whatever and remove the gold/silver/rhodium plating and polish the metals and you will get a significant improvement, assuming the base material is copper. The use of cold welding technique rather than soldering so that you are not destroying the cable at this junction, and the use of ceramic based composite powders for resosonance control all yield significant improvements, although now he has developed a solid air matrix for dampening instead of composite powders to maintain an air dielectric. These techniques should be equally applicable to power cable and fuses. I wonder with the Quantum when they will come out with a fuseholder of the same material. |
Dear Nandric, the cartridge industry seems to becoming a family circus, Japan, Switzerland (with the diamonds and Benz), The Netherlands (linked to Switzerland), Germany (Clearaudio, EMT), Denmark (Ortofon) The US (Soundsmith), - and then some retippers also catering the used and vintage markets. Did I forget someone? I guess maybe not more than 3500 new MC carts in the High End Field are sold on a yearly bases, MM much more. I do understand that everyone wants to keep "their secret mixtures" and their margins as these are in the cart business higher than on electronics. We are a small if not exclusive group supporting the Cart Makers. |
Dear Fleib, In an OTL amplifier there is nothing between the output tube and the speaker. Therefore, if an output tube arcs over or otherwise fails catastrophically, there is real potential for speaker damage. By far most output tubes commonly used in OTLs have their own built-in fuse protection. This is true of 6AS7s (commonly used by Atma-sphere) and of the family of tubes commonly used in Futterman amplifiers (6LF6, etc). It is not true of the 6C33C or of the 7241, both of which are relatively recently developed for military use. Thus, use of an external fuse is advised with these two outputs. The point is that whether the fuse is external to the tube or not, there is still a fuse protection in nearly all OTLs. You're correct, I could take a chance and bypass the fuses. However, who are you to say it is "ridiculous" not to?
I am saying nothing about Roger Modjeski, in the interests of diplomacy. But I will say that I choose a fuse willingly in lieu of an output transformer. He designs transformer-coupled tube amps (in the last 3 decades or so); I don't use them. Of course, once upon a time he did design the direct-drive OTL amplifiers for Beveridge speakers, which amplifiers use---- internally fused output tubes. He's no cowboy. |
Go with the MDA time delay (slow blow) unless you need a fast acting fuse. |
Dear Ecir38: Thank's, Why not?:
http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/public/en/bussmann/electronics/products/cooper_bussmann_overcurrentovervoltagecircuitprotection/fuses_and_accessories.html
we can try even military specs ones.
regards and enjoy the music, R. |
I have been happy with my Bussman MDA ceramic fuses. Raul, maybe you could get some of them to compare to the audiophile versions. |
Hi Lew, "My OTL amplifiers require a fuse on each output tube. In other words, the fuse and fuse-holder are in the signal path, so I have no doubt that there is a rationale for using the best possible."
That's one of the most ridiculous things I ever read. I wasn't going to say anything, but... I had mono OTLs direct driving electrostats at 50KV w/o such fuses. With 4 big cap tubes each and a ton of storage, they could play louder than the panels could. Maybe you could bypass the fuses, but if the amp is so stupidly designed in the first place, you're probably better off dumping them. You should get in touch with Roger Modjeski. I doubt if he would put a crummy fuse on the output of each tube. You could probably improve the sound and pocket the difference after you sell the other amps. Regards, |
Dear Lew, Look at the speaker forum, 'Best Electrostatic speaker', the contribution by Albertporter 06-16-00. If he is right you will not care to pay $59 for whatever number of fuses you may need.
Dear Dover, I recognise your (scary) description but in my case this was my first visit to a disco. I had no idea how little people care about their own ears and how much about their other organs. But to emigrate to New Zealand for this reason looks to me exaggerated.
Regards, |
Dear Lewm: That's exactly what I was thinking last night. If the " fancy charactersitics " are more or les the same in between then the HF-tunning or SR could " have " something inside to later and makes the differences???????
A characteristic from the SR fuses that is not shared with the other fuse manufacturers is this:
++++ " Synergistic Research Quantum Fuses employ a custom alloy for burn wire and end caps, treated with 2,000,000 volts of electricity, altering the conductor at molecular level! " +++++
that means almost nothing for me to be realy aware that's the difference. In the other side the fuses in my electronics and almost everywhere goes out of the signal path.
Too many questions and no answers.
Regards and enjoy the music, R. |
If anyone here has a blown $59 fuse, I will donate an Acme fuse so we can cut them in half and find out indeed whether there is any difference at all between them. I am curious. |
Nandric - when I was in the business in the 80's I heard a full home theatre system in the US - Infinity IRS V's for the fronts, IRS 1B's for the 2 sides and IRS V's for the two at the rear. Top Gun was the movie of the day and I was lucky to get out alive - planes were dive bombing me from all directions. I still have a photo somewhere of a rack of Audio Research amps with a "No Smoking" sign on the top - obviously they missed the irony. |
Dear Dover, You are to modest. Thanks to Lew's and Henry's objections I decided not to buy the Genesis 1.1 (aka Infinity RS) and saved $250.000. |
a) $43 b) $43 less the marginal tax rate of your business c ) $43 plus or minus freight and sales tax differential d ) $2500 actual savings, assuming the purchase of said audiophile fuses saves another trip to the therapist. e) All of the above |
Raul, Perhaps it is you who should tell me what is the difference between one silver/ceramic/cryo-treated fuse that costs $16 and another silver/ceramic/cryo-treated fuse that costs $59. Pixie dust? (Just kidding.) For me, the Acme fuses are an example of what I call "good enough", not worthy of further thought and mental anguish.
Prior to finding the Acme products, I used to coat the ends of my conventional glass fuses with Walker Audio SS contact enhancer, just empirically. I never did an A/B comparison, with vs without the Walker enhancer. I still use the Walker enhancer on the Acme fuses. |
Dear Don, You already told us to be a retired aircraft engineer. So you have all the time to mess with a.o. the fuses. I am also a retired person but as civil servant with hernia (got the hernia from adjustment of those damn springs on the LP12). Besides my lovely ASR 'German artillery' has two battery packs for, I assume, the signal path but I have no idea which is which. To avoid trouble I simply assume that there are no fuses in my signal path. This way I can concentrate on purchase of carts and tonearms. One can't have it all?
Regards, |
Dear Nandric,
The fuses that are in our gear, put there by whom ever built the gear, can be bought at any auto parts store here in the US. It's a sad fact but true! They are nothing special, just fuses. You can buy a 5 pack for $1.50. Considered the weak link in a circuit (Pun intended). I have, once a year, remove all fuses and clean/treat the fuse and holder with the preserver. It makes a slight difference. For how long? I have no ideal, but there is a noticeable difference when done. Absolute pain in the ass to do. Unplugging all those cables, power cords, etc. just to get the piece of equipment out of the rack for fuse cleaning. Not much return for all that effort. To have replaced all my fuses with the latest and greatest SR fuse, it would have run me well over $1000. To me, the slight improvement would not justify spending that kind of money. I had changed some of the fuses in my system to the ceramic ones, and it was always at the back of my mind that I still have some of those cheap auto parts fuses still in certain components of my system. Instead of cleaning them this year, I have decided to just go ahead and replace those that are still the cheap glass type. Price was right thanks to Acme. Really was not interested in whether they were better or were not as good as some other brand. I just wanted fuses that were better than what I had. This will be the last time that I will spend the fall season pulling out equipment. Regards, Don |
Dear Don, I deed not assume that your fuses are from some auto part store but well that they are put in whatever part of your gear by those who made the same gear. They are supposed to know about the parts they use I think. In Europe we know about different kinds of fuses for years. According to some they make no (electrical)sense , accordiding to others they are 'a must have'. I am happy to report that my FR-7 needs no upgrade so I saved about 180 Euro which I can spend on fuses. If I only knew where to put them.
Regards, |
Dear Lewm: As I said I can't understand/know why the fuse improvements differences in between.
Silver, cryo and ceramic is not all the " name of game " because the Acme and Hi-Fi tunning share those characteristics and the HFT are superior ones in the way that the SR are superiors to the HFT, so???????????
Regards and enjoy the music, R. |
Dear Nandric,
Have you assumed (incorrectly), that I am running my equipment with fuses bought from some auto parts store? I did a fuse comparison several years ago. Because of the ridicules prices I only upgraded certain fuses in my system. The prices asked by Acme Audio, for silver ceramic fuses is quite a bargain ($16 versus $49), so I decided to finish replacing ALL the remaining fuses in my 2 systems plus some spares. Nandric, the difference in fuses pales in comparison to what a retip will provide. I have a DeoxIT & PreservIT kit by Cramolin which is a electronic maintenance kit for cleaning contacts. Damn near same results can be accomplished treating/cleaning the fuses & their holders with it. The down side is that you will occasionally have to pull your system apart to reapply. The fuse change is forever. The money spent is because I'm lazy! |
Dear Don, Considering your background I am really suprised that you believe in Lew's myth reg. Acme. Before ordering 15 of them you should, as he should, first order one, then compare with the cheap one and if convinced about their superiority order the other 14. There is no sense in spending money saved by avoiding the retip (because of the new prices) for fuses.
Regards, |
Lewn, Thanks for the tip on Acme Audio Labs. Michael Brinkman was a real gentleman to deal with. Ordered 15 fuses and should have them by Monday. Regards, Don |
Funny. Except in this case the added part is the most relevant part. Or maybe not; in both cases the body is slave to the addenda. |
Lew, I was on the fence about what to do with the F9 body--a $47 eBay purchase. The rising cost of retips tipped me toward SS. So the F9 will carry a stylus costing 10x more than the body. A good analogy may be to what in LA is referred to as a "torpedo stick"-- a twig of a girl with massive silicone. |
Dave, So I gather that (for $500?), SS sells an entire stylus cum cantilever assembly for the Grace? What bothers me about that is the fact that one is replacing not only the stylus, cantilever, and associated suspension, but also the male part of the stylus assembly that sticks up into the cartridge body. Or to put it another way, the part of the cantilever aft of the pivot. Seems this could change the sound quite a bit vs that of the stock component. I am curious to learn how it works out.
Interesting to note that when Raul started on this odyssey, he was probably paying no more than $100 for any of these cartridges. Now we accept it as a given that spending $500 to $1000 (including the cost of rebuild in some cases when necessary) is the norm. |
With discussion returning to Grace, I recently pulled the trigger on a Soundmith F9 holder with ruby cant and OCL. Should arrive in mid November. Unfortunately I have nothing from Grace to compare it to, as my stock E stylus is broken. |
Regards, Harald-n-t-b: Suggest you look at the download of Grace "Stereo Pickups" in the Vinyl Engine Library, draw your own conclusions.
I've both the F9E & F9L. Being a midrange junkie, the F-9L is among my ten or so favorites. Outvoted by those who have had the opportunity to compare the "L" to the "E" & Ruby. The F9F (blue stylus ass'ly) is usually considered the premier edition.
Peace, |
Professors and fans, Is the Grace F-9U on the top of the F-9 series, the stylus is Microline, what´s the original cantilever ? |
Nandric, Lewm,
Axel, sometime in mid September, did the nude Shibata/Beryllium cantilever replacement on my Goldring G800 for 273 euro's. I'm going to assume that prices must vary from different vendors or materials. Perhaps prices are lower on old stock? I don't know which is correct, but one thing is certain, $352 (273 euro's) + $25 (for ebay purchase), is damn cheap for a cartridge that of this caliber! |
Dear Lew, Thanks for the tip. I had no idea about anything interesting in Ukraine. Van den Hul is there involved in the aviation industry with his carbon (?)wire company. I really need to 'refresh' my Russian while Ukraine is nearer than the Russian Federation. |
Perhaps vdH is more fascinated with the beautiful women of the Ukraine than he is with repairing another Colibri. Who can blame him?
It was slowly dawning on me that Axel was raising his prices. Now that Nicola mentions "400 Euro", I am both flabbergasted and sure of it. That makes SoundSmith look like a very reasonable alternative. Raul, what about the other company, located in the Northwest USA, that you once mentioned? Have you given them any re-tip business? |
Dear Raul, The problem with Van den Hul is that he can be reached only via intermediary. Even for us in Holland. There is one other retip service in Holland but the prices are nearly identical with Axel's. I like Axel very much but my bank account even more. 400 Euro for an retip is anayway to expensive for me. But you are our leader in this adventure so you will lead the way. BTW I don't believe that Van den Hul himself does any retip work. He owns 3 different companies and spend more time in Ukraine than Holland.
Regards, |
Dear nandric: It was unfortunated that Axel re-tipping/fix prices already gone real high.
Well, that helps to be more selective and precise on what we want it.
Time to come back VDH for me.
Regards and enjoy the music, R. |
I think the manufacturers realized that endorsing the idea of directionality was yet another good way to promote the sale of $50 fuses; if direction makes a difference, then surely all the other associated less controversial mumbo jumbo makes sense too. |
Dear Lewm: Yes, there are " crazy " tthings surrounded these fancy fuses as that " directionality " you name it and that some persons support it. Reading that kind of fuse " things " I tested that directionality looking for a change and I could not be aware of it.
Things goes so " crazy " that even the manyfacturers recomed that " directionality ". In the case of my new SR ones the manufacturer said : no directionality factor with their fuses.
Regards and enjoy the music, R. |
Dear Raul, You make a good point; I have no idea either why fuses on the AC line make such a difference, but "silver" and "cryo" are part of the audiophile mantra. We believe in those twin gods, don't we? What's even crazier, not to say much crazier, is the idea that fuses have directionality. Some of the most expensive fuses are marked for "proper" orientation. On an AC line, the AC passing through a fuse would be at a fixed frequency (50 or 60Hz) and would have a sine wave form, equal amplitude in both up and down phases. Orientation should be irrelevant. I am not saying I think it IS relevant, but some think they hear a difference. (This is why we favor double-blind placebo controlled experiments as data vs subjective opinions, everywhere but in audio.)
The way I've wired my output stage, I have to remove their fuses in order to bias each output tube (separately). The ability to do so is a big advantage over commercial OTLs, where one has to bias a whole bank of output tubes with a single control, such that one really does not know what is happening with the bias at each individual output tube. (One or more tubes could be drawing most of the bias current whilst the others are near to being turned off.) However, the trade-off is that I would not be able to hard wire the output tube fuses into the circuit. I am kind of stuck with fuse holders. |
I must confess my addiction to those damn carts. Each day I spend at least two hours searching for the 'interesting' carts of both kinds. Those which are also cheap are the most interesting. But the rules of the game are changed with the huge incrise in retip prices. With so many carts one should have, I think, some exit strategy. That is to say the possibility to resell some of them for a 'resonable price'. Otherwise this 'addiction' become more crazy then it already is. I have no idea how many producers of those cantilever/stylus combo's there are but I don't understand why boron, beryllium, sapphire, etc. are so much more expensive than aluminum with the same stylus. From the fact that Axel and I wrote more then 4 emails to two producers asking for the micro ridge styli but without any reaction from both I deduce that they can afford such a attitude. Are those producers some kind of monopolist? The fact also that Japanese producers incrised one-sided their prices with 100% suggest that there is no much competition between them. To make my point I am pretty sure that I will never (re)sell my G800 for the price of the retip only. This means in my case: no more carts which need a new cantilever and/or stylus.
Regards, |
Dear Aududiopulse: He is right, aluminum is wrong with that cartridge as is with the Virtuoso.
I know that almost any cantilever build material could function very well depending on the overall cartridge design, we have to remember that cantilever is an important part of that design but is only a part.
Regards and enjoy the music, R. |
Dear Lewm: I already tested the ones you use it.
You are right about the fuse holder and trhough my electronics I soldered directly the fuse when that was/is posible.
Btw, agree with you: by-pass fuses is almost always riscky we can lose the protection for any unexpected electrical " failure ".
In electronics configuration as your OTL in theory the best fuse is no fuse due that is in the signal path.
Why in electronics as mine where the fuse is not on the signal path makes those differences?
I know that the SR is an expensive one but if in my system made a " significant " improvement ( not a mere difference. ) IMHO in your electronics could be like " night and day ". Worth to try it and you lose nothing because that 30 days test warranty!
regards and enjoy the music, R. |
Fuses are generally used for good safety reasons. To bypass a fuse with a wire, silver or otherwise, requires some solid knowledge of what you are doing and the possible negative consequences. Sometimes, it can be done safely. Most of the time, not.
As to re-tipping an Urushi. I had not thought of doing that as it would devalue the cartridge. Of course, if the suspension or tip were worn out, then it makes perfect sense. Absent those issues, I would as soon sell the Urushi in its original state and turn to something else. Right now, it merits another audition, since I have not listened to mine in nearly a year, and my system, especially my speakers, are much different/better. |
Hi Folks, Spoke to Dominic about the G800 regarding the aluminum cantilever that Raul did through Axel seeking his opinion. According to him, that choice of metal(Al) was a weak link in that mod. Other better metals will elevate the G800 beyond belief. Do I believe him ? I have no reason not to since he is the one that discovered the magic of G800 through mod.. |
Fuses - You can also eliminate fuses and all the push fit connections and additional joints by just soldering in fusewire in series. Anyone try this ?
Raul can you confirm your best Virtuoso with boron cantilever - does this sound any different to the Maestro.
Nandric - the Aluminium/boron combo is what Garrots use to use on some cartirdges. On my Denon 103 it was superb.
If you guys check out Youngs Modulus you will see that Aluminium/Boron/Beryllium/Diamond have quite significant differences in hardness, and the ones with the lower Modulus number ie aluminium, will self damp more, the harder ones send much more energy into the cartridge generator and body.
Lewm - re the Urushi - most of the Koetsu's I had sounded significantly better all round with a microscanner diamond installed. Have you thought about retipping. I'm convinced my recently rebuilt Dynavector Nova 13 is pulling more information and has better separation of instruments than before, and one of the differences is it now sports the micro ridge diamond instead of the PA line contact. The other outstanding Koetsu amongst the 30 or so I've used/set up the van den hul rebuilt onyx was outstanding - I see that the Expert Stylus Paratrace is very similar to the van den hul shape. I'd be nervous about sending the K to van den hul as I cant believe the old man does these personally any more ?? The new "Garrotts" do a microscanner retip and cartridge checking, but I have no experience of their service level. |
Nandric, I sent my Benz Micro Ruby 3 off to Axel, thinking it needed a new tip. I had too many cartridges that sounded better than it did. Being retired, I get to play records, for hours & hours, day after day! It must be at least 6, maybe 8 years old? I've been retired for 9 years, and I know I was retired when it happened. Good news for you though. Axel said the stylus was showing no signs of wear. So you will probably need suspension work well before you will need a retip. Axel charged 65 euro's and it sounds excellent. Only cartridges now at its level are the London (Decca) Jubilee, AT ML180, Signet TK10 ML MKII, Stanton 981 LZS and the Technics U205C MK4! I might have to throw in the Goldring G800Ax. Yes, Nandric, mine is that good! Regards, Don |
Nandric,
My graph paper says Ruby F/G-S. I have one of the very early ones. I had a Ruby F/GII in which I broke one of the contact pin wires. A steel nut got sucked up into the cartridge body when I was trying to mount it. I tried to use a pair of tweezers to get the nut out and broke the wire soldered to the red pin. I sent it back to Musical Surroundings for repair, and what I got back in 1 week was the new F/G-S. I bought the F/GII on sale. I also had a Ruby I for trade-in so I got it very cheap. The sale must have been because they were coming out with the F/G-S. Turned out to be one of the best screw-up's I've ever done. The Goldring was a cartridge that I had been reading about on Dominic Harpers web site. He uses his nickel cantilever on the G800. I am not to fond of nickel material. I am a retired Aircraft Engineer. The company I worked for had a plating facility (Silver, nickel, copper, Chrome), with nickel being used a base material. Rather soft and oxidized quickly. Because of this experience, I decided to stay with known/proven to me, materials. Regards, Don |
Hi Dgarretson, Nandric and I both have the Benz Micro Ruby 3s. He, in an earlier post, stated his G800 with an alum. cantiliver with a pressure fit line contact stylus did not better his Ruby 3s. I should not have shortened its name even shorter to Ruby S. Sorry for the confussion! As far as needing 6C33's, I also have a large supply, bought from Victor back when I had a VK60. I bought one of the 1st VK60's sold in California. I heard it at the stereophile show up in San Francisco. Victor was looking for dealers. Bruce at Stereo Unlimited signed on and thru Bruce, I bought one. BTW, I am also waiting for a picture of the SS Grace Ruby stylus. Regards, Don |