Yes Travbrow, This Thread inspired me to return to MM cartridges after a 30 year hiatus with LOMCs 🤗 So I bought and sold many of the cartridges mentioned and recommended here...... Some of my favourites (in no particular order)..... There are many other relatively cheap vintage MM cartridges which are capable of wonderful sound....... |
Could it be that Glanz chose a mediocre aluminum type cantilever? And some other brands designed better ones? That could be the reason the lower models all sound very close and the much better design of the boron and better tip makes a big improvement. |
halcro, what’s your reference or favorite cartridges? Were any of the MM models discussed on this thread favorites of yours? |
So Chak, Are you saying that if one were to find an original Glanz 61 stylus assembly........one could put it in any of the other bodies (31L,51L,71L) and have the 'unobtainable' Glanz 61?
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@halcro
The 31L, the 51L and the 71L (which all sound virtually identical in my system) and the totally horrific M5 integrated headshell model are made by the same company as the MFG 61 and presumably are based on the same technology.
Haha, true. This is actually a good argument to destroy Raul's theory that "cartridge motor" is the most important. The difference between MF-61 and the rest of the Glanz models is CANTILEVER AND STYLUS, the Moving Flux generator is the same. The difference between my Glanz 61 and 31L, 71L was so huge that my impressing was like i'm listening completely different cartridge. This is because of the tiny Parabolic stylus tip mounted on thin Boron cantilever. I remember that HUGE, tapered like Egyptian Pyramid, cantilever on 71L (same on Astatic MF-100). I also remember quite well more conventional aluminum cantilever on my Glanz 31L (same on Astatic MF-200) ... but the reference Glanz 61 Boron cantilever and Paroc stylus tip is completely different. I think it was the awakeness of Mitachi chief designer when he realized (maybe in his dream) how this cartridge can be improved by changing the cantilever and diamond. That drammatic improvement belongs to Mitachi cartridges made for Glanz ONLY (not for Astatic). This is what makes Glanz 61 so special. |
Btw, ask to the Lyra owners why they like their Atlas, Etna or Kleos or even in the " down " models. Ask your self why J.Carr was and is so successfully audio manufacturer for so many years. Ask your self or ask him. But if we ask the FR64S and FR-66S tonearm owners why they like these arms so much and why they are the most successful vintage tonearms EVER seen.... This argument suddenly seems to ’disappear’......? Do you see the irony Mr Kraken 👺???!! PS You never owned or had the FR-66S in your system. Just another of the blatant lies you constantly spin. |
I find this discussion about the greatness of the Glanz MFG 610 and MFG 61 intriguing as I have had all the other GLANZ MODELS (except for these) and find them universally mediocre.... The 31L, the 51L and the 71L (which all sound virtually identical in my system) and the totally horrific M5 integrated headshell model are made by the same company as the MFG 61 and presumably are based on the same technology. Can anyone hazard a guess as to how and why, Glanz would make a 'worldbeater' model alongside their 'lesser-sounding' brethren? |
But with that mediocre system is extremely difficult you can learn. You need a true reference room/system. In other threads you and me already had several dialogues about with facts why is a mediocre system. Starting with your room, followed by the subs room position and that non reference phonolinepreamp. Well here are modest iPhone videos of my "mediocre" system.... VICTOR X1 MM CARTRIDGEAS PALLADIAN LOMC CARTRIDGENow let's see if you have the guts Mr. Kraken, to compare your System to mine via your own YouTube videos....? I predict you will have multitude excuses for avoiding revealing to the whole audio world, the true 'sound' of what you listen to.....🙉 |
@travbrow Great, congrats! I'm pretty sure you will be impressed, i hope you know that on ebay you're protected by "paypal buyer protection", even in the worst scenario (if the cart has any deffects) you can return it for full refund and it's guaranteed by paypal. I think it was decent price for such special cartridge with the most advanced cantilever and stylus tip. It may require a burn-in for 50 hrs, because it's a NOS.
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Chakster, I bought one. It seems this cartridge was very rare and highly regarded. So I thought I’d better just buy it before it’s sold out.
I’ve read a thread about this model at another forum. One poster that owns some of the best TOTL models from Grace, the ATML180 etc. was highly impressed with its performance. |
Regards, all:
Ebullient is the word.
Empire 999S/EX cartridge lounging without a stylus in a drawer for I can't remember how long. "Gary" at VOM (Voice Of Music) site offered two genuine Empire stylus options for the old guy, Pfanstiel #'s 235 DE .02 x .07 ellipt./.75 - 2.0 downforce & 235 SDE, also 2x7 ellipt., 0.5 - 1.5 down. Freq. response for the SDE listed by Empire Scientific at 8-32k Hz.
The 235 SDE arrived yesterday, today got it plugged it in & laid Hewy Lewis' "Sports" on the platter.
The 999S/EX motor is listed at 8.0mv. First playback is robust with prodigious bass. Midrange was nicely conveyed and the Hf's were there but just a little less evident than expected from the nice elliptical.
Moved on to Ricky Lee Jones' eponymous Lp. Very, very good center image, layering and soundstage. Deep and wide. No stridency in her vocals but evidence of mild mistracking. A reduction in tracking force and a bump in VTA brought the Hf's a little more into the mix. Played with loading, much better.
Santana Borboletta next. Third album and there's a noticeable lifting in the upper registers as the cart warms. Guitar is fluid, percussion rise is sharp. No noticeable overshoot but there's a little more overhang than I'd like to hear.
Fifth Lp. Hf's starting to get a little sparkle. Gaining fine detail, bass more proportionate. Dubious at first, I'm beginning to like this rather bold cart. With an appellation like S/EX, how could I not?
The cantilever is a fine al. tube just over 3mm in length, appears to be anodized. The nude diamond is crystal clear and cleanly affixed.
Now at 1.1 VTF, 300pF, 100k Ohm and a raucous 8.0mv output. a rocker of a cartridge.
Peace,
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BTW has anyone measured the "terribel resonance" of the Orsonic AV-101 headshell, exept the Raul, who has his special hearing abilities with built-in resonance and distortion meter? How many people on audiogon does not like the Orsonic AV-101 ? Maybe less than 1% of the members i believe. P.S. I’ve never owned any Lira cartridges, i have nothing against them, but there is only ONE disadvantages in its design (imo) is the unprotected cantilever which looks like it was made to be bent accidentally. Not only Lyra designed in such way, but also some VdH and Dynavector cartridges. I would NEVER buy ANY cartridge with cantilever like that (for security reason). This is so easy to destroy! |
@travbrow I’ve read on another forum about this Glanz model, the owners are very satisfied highly praised the performance, but a little concerned that it’s a low rider, not being sure if that’s normal for these models? I asked the EBay seller how many he has left, he didn’t reply. My advice for you to buy it, but prior to buy just ask him about suspension condition if he could check. If it will be refused then you can still buy (you can return if the suspension is failed during your own test). The seller does not have to answer the question like "how many do you have?". I’ve had 5 Glanz cartridges, not from that Japanese seller, i’ve bought from Germany, only one of them was a lowrider, but it was Glanz MFG-71L (that model is nothing special, however Axel fixed the damper for 40-60 euro for me and i sold it). The MF-61 is in my top-5 cartridges and i would never sell it. |
Halcro: I forgot this very good one from you:
for years I posted that one of the worst headshells were the Orsonic but you followed the advise of other person I bougth some of those true " terribel " resonant headshells.
Time latter I received an email from you asking me that for a while I stopped to post against the Orsonic headshells because you wanted to put on sale here in Agon and I ccepted not to post about to help you can " scam " some other ignorant. I have that email from you.
And exist several other ? ? ? ! ! ! ! ?
@lewm agree there is no need for all those but don't let me alternatives.
R. |
Dear @lewm : The overall cantilever build materials signifcance and differences was analyzed at least twice times, one in this thread and in other thread in both appeared the facts scientific/enginnering facts why Diamond and Boron are " the ones " even ruby and saphire are both a top beryllium and ceramic is out of question. J.Carr learned from his " mistake " about.
"""
not what they are made of or what is the shape of their stylus. I am more thinking that the nature of the transducing system is a major factor in determining what I like and like less. """
Finally in these last posts some one, in this case you, that makes reference to cartridge motor design, at least that says something about.
R. |
Dear @halcro : You are masochistic because you always come back to receive more. Ok, here I go because you don’t let me alternative: """ I have many boron-cantilevered cartridges and they simply don’t possess the ’magic’ of beryllium ... "" unfortunatelly after all your audio years you just don’t understand that the main cartridge signature belongs not to the cantilever material but to the CARTRIDGE MOTOR designs and several facts here in this thread and other threads proved. Yes, you are wrong about but you have the rigth to make it public, good for you. """ Why does the world need any other cartridges other than Lyra (if they are perfect according to the OP)? """ why exist Chateu Margaux if already exist Chateu Laffite? and where I posted Lyra cartridges are " perfect ". You are not only wrong again but posting liers too. """ And what if I said that I can’t stand the sound of the four Lyra cartridges I have owned.... They are all as divorced from the sound of real ’music’ as any horror devices I have heard.... Better to choose the exact OPPOSITE of what Lyra chooses """ those statements speaks not how bad are the Lyra cartridges but the other way around: speaks how bad and poor is your room/audio system. I can’t understand why you like to hit you by your self ! ! ! Btw, ask to the Lyra owners why they like their Atlas, Etna or Kleos or even in the " down " models. Ask your self why J.Carr was and is so successfully audio manufacturer for so many years. Ask your self or ask him. """ cartridges and tonearms that the OP waxes lyrical over were the WORST.... AT-20SS (Ahhhh 🙉), Signet TK10ML (Arrrr 🤬), Technics 1000C Mk3 and Mk4 (😴) and AT150ANV (imitation AT155LC) """ well in this thread exist several 20SS owners as over the audio world out there and in this same thread page a gentleman gave/posted facts why he like it. Again plain wrong. """ Signet TK10ML (Arrrr 🤬) """ you never owned the one I touted in the thread: TK10ML MK2. """ Technics 1000C Mk3 and Mk4 (😴) """, again you never owned the stand alone MK4 version but other than me you can ask to any MK4 owner inluding a gentleman with a true reference audio system as @downunder . Wrong again. """ AT150ANV (imitation AT155LC """. who told you ?, Wrong again. Did you listen all those cartridges named with 100kohms?, of course not because your " reference " phonolinepreamp has no 100koms impedance control. My fingers already tired to write " wrong again " but such is life. """ recommended the Grace G-940 which is the cheapest, plasticky, inept, UNDAMPED """ According who is undamped? here you can learn about because even that you own or owned you don’t know on that Grace design: https://www.vinylengine.com/library/grace/g-940.shtmlwrong again and another lier. """ ANYTHING...... I immediately add it to my ’official’ List of ’DON’T BUY’ items..... "" don’t tell me that because what you have says a way different " things ": "" Many of my favourite MM cartridges "". Btw, where do you learn on that kind of cartridge designs? I don’t finish yet: don’t was you who touted the Davinci Grandezza tonearm you own? how any one could touted a tonearm designed with out azymuth adjustement? Incredible but more incredible is that you still own it. Don’t was you one of the persons that were against removable headshell tonearm designs? and today 90% of your tonearms are removable headshell ones ! ! metal ones UNDAMPED. Heavy resonant. Btw, in Agon I was the first person that touted removable headshell tonearm designs and almost every one just laugh for say the least, you included. don’t was you the person that was against an older of my posts where I was talking of naked TTs ( no plith. ) that I had? and latter on you started a thread doing the same but at the end your proccess let to go to a no naked final project after all !. Don’t was you the one who told I’was wrong when I posted ( several years ago. ) the absolut neccesity to have in any system with passive speakers two self powered subs integrated in true stereo fashion? And was you that latter on bougth a pair of subs for your system. Why do you own DD TTs?, in Agon I was the first person that touted the DD TTs and how Technics or a humble Denon beats BD TT and many gentlemans here and elsewhere just laughin again but things are that almost all of them rigth now own DD units and some of them makes his life audio business manufacturing DD plinths and other DD " parts ". You never learn because you started that stampede with the Victor DD TT when by its real manufacturer specs is a way inferior TT than the vintage Technics not only that but the today new low prices Technics units and in your thread I posted facts on this where every one took in count that no reason stampede for the Victor. This is the level you have, certainly not a reference. Btw, was not you the one that agree with me ( I have your post. ) that the SAEC ceramic headshell was " terrible " one? Btw again, who was the first person that brougth to Agon SAEC tonearms? yes was me and I touted till I learned and you still own SAEC because you did not learn on it yet ! ! But with that mediocre system is extremely difficult you can learn. You need a true reference room/system. In other threads you and me already had several dialogues about with facts why is a mediocre system. Starting with your room, followed by the subs room position and that non reference phonolinepreamp. The other person is not different its mediocrity is even higher and perhaps never can learn too. Both always try to hit me with out success and this fact is a deep frustration for both but always come back for more. R. |
@rauliruegas I read your first post from all those years back, with interest, but admit I haven’t read the whole thread... yet. Just bits of it. Initially you didn’t mention the Goldring (1042) MM carts. Well I have been through a similar learning curve to you with trying to match tomearms headshells and carts with TTs (although nowhere near as many trials) and have landed on the Goldring 1042, Rega RB300 tonearm (quite old now) and Nottingham Analogue Interspace TT. Using an Aragon 24k Pre set at 47Ohms. Have you ever heard this combo? IMHO it’s pretty freakin’ good! :) |
Dear @
slimpikins5 : As @travbrow said arm board material always matters and makes or puts a different " signature ". I don't like acrylic in arm boards and maybe magnesium could be the best way to go, magnesium is self damped against stell or aluminum.
R. |
I’ve read on another forum about this Glanz model, the owners are very satisfied highly praised the performance, but a little concerned that it’s a low rider, not being sure if that’s normal for these models? I asked the EBay seller how many he has left, he didn’t reply. |
I sent an offer to the Japan seller of the Glanz MFG610, he wouldn’t agree.
@travbrow his price for Glanz MFG-610LX is extremely low! This cartridge is based on my favorite Glanz MF-61 which was sold once for 1200 GBP on ebay (impossible to find model). At that time 1200 GBP was about $2400. The MFG-610LX is later version. None of that MF types (i’ve had many) has Boron Cantilever and nude Paroc diamond. $450 for such cartridge is a fair price, actually very low price in my opinion. The real price must be over $1k. The 610LX is not identical to Glanz best MF-61, but must be close anyway. The MF-61 was spectacular on my Reed 3P tonearm. I don’t know why people are spinning on that Glanz 610LX, this cartridge is far better than some old crap we discussing here. |
Lewm, I also like MI types. I might try a moving flux type eventually. I sent an offer to the Japan seller of the Glanz MFG610, he wouldn’t agree. I’m not willing to spend $450.00 right now. But maybe at a later date. |
I think different materials can alter the character of the sound a little. I thought I heard difference between maple and slate arm pods on my homemade slate plinth. I ended up preferring the maple wood, a warmer sound. I could be nuts though too...You can always try it with stainless and if you think it affected the sound negativity, go back to your second plan and mount it directly to the original acrylic board.
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And to add into the mix here; I have another thought I have been wondering about: I recently picked up a micrometer head which I am going to modify into a VTA fine adjustment for the SME Series IV as it doesn't have this. The the Series V does have an on the fly VTA adjustment and I want that on mine. The Micrometer head of course is indicated on the side in .001 inch increments so its going to be really easy to read a plus or minus change and log it in for a setting.
When I make up the parts to adapt this to the main shaft of the SME, I plan on machining a new tone arm board so that it's all one piece. The VPI Ares3 is a laminated acrylic/aluminum/acrylic 3 inch thick base and the stock tonearm board is an acrylic puck which is machine bolted into the aluminum layer in the body of the turntable. I was going to make my new tonearm board out of stainless steel as it polishes up so nicely when finished from a CNC mill.
The question is: does anyone know anything about how a stainless tone arm board bolted to an aluminum mid layer of a laminated turntable would perform? I mean would it really matter if I mixed materials? Or would I be better off keeping an acrylic arm board and bolting my new parts to that? A guy at VPI told me that the arm board material makes no difference; but I have this fancy magnesium tone arm and that made a huge difference. I'd hate to alter whats transducing here :) |
There was a thread on Audiogon quite a while ago in which a former engineer from Audio Technica was participating. He wrote a rather in depth post as to why Beryllium was the go to material for cantilevers and the panic that ensued at AT when the EPA came down with the order that it no longer be used due to the dangerous toxic dust released when machining the material. He stated that the engineering department underwent a lot of R&D to find a suitable replacement material and Boron was what they determined would be closest, however it was still a compromise. Apparently Beryllium allows for the largest frequency excursion without distortion and also permits better channel separation and signal to noise ratios. This is why it was so good.
Here is an interesting comparison for all of you guys out in tone arm world: I have my original Marantz 6300 turntable which I bought new in college, I still have the original receipt! I bought it with the AT15ss and at that time I could not spring for the extra cost for the AT20ss. I was working part time for an audio dealer which got me some nice deep discounts on my system. The dealer told me not to worry about getting the AT20ss since it was basically the same as the AT15ss, but you know what? It's like having a Corvette Grand sport and not getting the Z06.... they are pretty much the same other than the 06 has a little more horse power which you really don't use on US highways. But you always wanted to know it was there and you wanted it.
Anyway, back to my point; I decided to buy some eye candy for the living room; I found a great deal on a used VPI Ares3 with the super platter for not too much money as it didn't come with a tone arm. I searched and found a great deal on a used SME Series IV in mint condition as the VPI was. I spent three days in the shop machining or should I say re-machining the tone arm board which came with the VPI (acrylic) to accept the SME. When I assembled everything it looked absolutely stunning, real eye candy. But I was so into my vintage 6300 with the AT15ss that I couldn't believe that anything would really sound much better. So I felt the best way to test my new set up was to do an apples to apples comparison and I moved the AT15ss from the Marantz over to the SME; this will tell me how the new turntable performs as its the same exact cartridge.
Results: jaw dropping!! I could not believe the difference in detail and dynamic range output. It was simply stunning. First thing I noticed; I could crank the volume with as much bass as I want and there is zero acoustic feedback from the low frequencies (mind you I modified the the stock feet on the VPI, I removed the useless aluminum spike cone feet and installed 4 SVS isofeet used on subwoofers....low durometer rubber). But honestly, I was hearing instruments I have not heard before. Material which was buried deep in the music was popping out at me. The mid and upper ranges were just there in huge display. The Marantz uses a steel tube tone arm with a removable head shell, the SME is a straight tapered one piece magnesium tone arm with much more elaborate bearings. Of course the VPI is a 75 pound laminated beast as is the super platter and its belt driven. The main bearing is silky smooth and I put some Superlube teflon grease on it.
I suppose what I am trying to say is; the other hardware down line from the cartridge plays a huge role in what you are going to hear how the cartridge melds with the playback gear might have a large influence on the performance. I was just lucky, my AT15ss, now an AT20ss just fell right into home with all of this. |
Someone please tell me what it is about ceramic that would make you think it is an exceptionally good material for making cantilevers. Halcro, you are an engineer. Do you have any notions about this? Or perhaps you don’t agree with the premise. For that matter, what is it about a beryllium that makes it better than boron or aluminum.? Etc., etc. These would be interesting things to talk about. For my part I will continue to choose my favorite cartridges based on how they sound, not what they are made of or what is the shape of their stylus. I am more thinking that the nature of the transducing system is a major factor in determining what I like and like less. In particular I am liking moving iron and induced magnet types over both moving magnet and moving coil types. Does anyone else feel that way? I find it kind of sad to see this discussion turned into an ad hominem attack of some of us upon others of us. There is no need for that.
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Just buy it. My GLANZ MFG-610LX from (early ?) 80´s is magnificent vintage classic MF, very balanced & nuanced sound, one of my top 5 of MM kind really. However, that one on eBay you are looking at is not exactly the same I have, it´s later stock or maybe a new design hence different body colour but I highly recommend it nevertheless. |
How’s the Glanz MFG 610 stack up against other favorites? It has the boron and special tip along with moving flux design. Seems it could be a great bargain and available at eBay. |
Whatever, opinions are like..you know the rest.This thread definitely helped me discover that you don’t need to spend ridiculous overinflated prices for fancy “high-end” brands to experience high end quality. Some recommendations not working out is to be expected because of many possible reasons.
I always enjoyed DIY, My turntable and tonearm are homemade. Currently using Speakers, subwoofers, phono stage and Lenco motor controller that I built from kits. Homemade cables and room treatment. I’m not looking to find or own “the best” cartridges like some of you, I enjoy finding bargains though, like the last couple cartridges I bought.
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All good points Chak....... Logic has never been the Mexican's strong point. And I agree that beryllium is the No.1 cantilever material based on all the listening I have done with over a hundred different cartridges. Many of my favourite MM cartridges share the common ingredient of beryllium..... Strangely I can't think of many LOMC cartridges with beryllium cantilevers other than the JMAS MIT 1 (another personal favourite). I have many boron-cantilevered cartridges and they simply don't possess the 'magic' of beryllium. J.Carr is often quoted by the Mexican as if he were ' Obi-Wan Kenobi'.....
Why does the world need any other cartridges other than Lyra (if they are perfect according to the OP)? And what if I said that I can't stand the sound of the four Lyra cartridges I have owned.... They are all as divorced from the sound of real 'music' as any horror devices I have heard.... Better to choose the exact OPPOSITE of what Lyra chooses IMO....🤗 Just as I discovered that the majority of cartridges and tonearms that the OP waxes lyrical over were the WORST.... AT-20SS (Ahhhh 🙉), Signet TK10ML (Arrrr 🤬), Technics 1000C Mk3 and Mk4 (😴) and AT150ANV (imitation AT155LC). And early on I made the mistake of asking his advice for a tonearm and he recommended the Grace G-940 which is the cheapest, plasticky, inept, UNDAMPED Unipivot tonearm it's been my misfortune to own.... Obviously before he realised his 'mistakes' about:- - Unipivots
- Undamped metal tubes
- Stevensen Geometry
These days I love it when the Mexican recommends something.....ANYTHING...... I immediately add it to my 'official' List of 'DON'T BUY' items..... So his diatribes are not ALL a waste of space...🤗 |
@slimpikins5 Just from everything I have read from people who have a lot more experience than I do, the Beryllium was the best material ever used for cantilever’s. I agree about Beryllium cantilever, i can’t hear any advantages of the Boron vs. Beryllium comparing two nearly identical cartridges ( AT-ML180 OFC and AT-ML180 OCC). Both carts are my reference MM and styli are interchargable between LC-OFC and PC-OCC models. Both cantilever are Gold-Plated, the diamond is MicroLine. The specs are very impressive. I cannot comment on the other variations of aluminum cantilevers as I have only played with the AT15/20 version, but the difference from Beryllium was so remarkable that I don’t really have much interest in it. The AT-20SLa is Limited Edition version, the stylus is genuine 20SL with Gold AT logo (not like the unknown blank LP gear bootleg). It was very impressive cartridge, but i prefer the AT-ML170 and AT-ML180 models from AT. @harold-not-the-barrel Never ever will waste my time and money on Audio-Technica cartridges. As some serious/experienced audiophiles also here on A´gon say, AT carts have a household sound ? Well whatever the case, not my cup of tea, in the end of a day. I can’t complain about Audio-Technica top vintage MM cartridges from the 70s/80s, i think they are spectacular, but a team of engineers who designed them are retired, new cartridges designed by different team. Today’s trend in High-End is LOMC, not Moving Magnet. Obviously an old AT’s Moving Magnet carts are much better than any today’s MM from this brand (imo). I’ve studdied the AT sound by trying different samples and i was hooked from AT-ML150 to AT-ML170 and finally AT-ML180. At least 2-3 samples of each and all perfect. Beryllium was cheaper than Boron (which is very expensive today) and very close if not the same. Many of my favorite cartridges have Beryllium cantilevers, we can’t go wrong with Beryllium (fact). AT-ML150 is excellent and the most reasonably priced in AT-ML series, it has beryllium Cantilever. For some reason top of the line AT-ML180 released in two different versions (Boron cantilever and Beryllium cantilever). I think AT’s guys understood what is "quality". I really think the Beryllium is like Boron to human ear. ***** P.S. It’s pretty funny when Raul is talking about cantilevers, when i've mentioned Ceramic Cantilever made by Grace in the 80's, he’s talking about SAEC headshell for some reason, or about ceramic tonearms and other stuff that has nothing to do with the cantilevers. Maybe we can compare my ceramic tea cup to a cantilever? Ceramics have beneficial sonic properties too, here is the article about Junji’s new line of electronics Shigaraki. This product related to 47 LABS who distributed legendary Miyabi cartridges in the USA (before Takeda-San retired). "Shigaraki stoneware is seldom seen in the West yet is very important in Japanese culture. I suspect that Junji is probably the first person ever to incorporate Shigaraki ceramics into a commercial product such as HiFi electronics. That’s right, Shigaraki stoneware pottery is what forms the casework for Junj’is line of Shigaraki electronics. " " Junji has been interested in the sonic properties of ceramics. Ceramics are hard and light and release resonant energy fast. Fine-grained ceramics are good but very expensive. Actually, ceramics of coarser, less pure grain are sonically more interesting. Their resonant character can be more evenly distributed. The difficulty is to ensure consistently accurate production. So when the time came to manufacture the Shigaraki line, Junji found a ceramic manufacturer who specializes in Shigaraki and could meet his design criteria - the owner of the company is an audiophile and music lover. Modern ceramic manufacturers no longer use wood firing. They use gas-firing kilns to control heat fluctuations within0.1 centigrade. Some ceramic artists still use the ancient methods but their approach isn’t suitable for manufacturing our Shigaraki chassis because of the heat fluctuations." If Boron is so good why ONLY Technics made BORON TONEARM ? Why not all tonearms are made of Boron like EPA-100 MKII ? And when someone using a Bamboo or Cactus for cantilever it doesn’t mean that tonearm must be made of Bamboo or Cactus too ? Or from DIAMOND maybe ? |
I paid over $300 for my NOS AT15ss and if an AT20ss stylus was to be found, it would be far more money... I had posted a want ad for one and a guy in Russia contacted me; he wanted $1000 for it. It was not only on the high side, I am not so sure I trust any Russians at this stage of life. I declined the offer. |
Twas in 2012 and yes not a true NOS obviously. Yes I have the MF 2500, took your advice and got it for a ridiculous price under 300 USD many years ago. And an MF-100, the second best ASTATIC for 100 USD, and believe or not the seller said it would come without stylus but to me delight there was an original stylus. Seller´s little mistake and my luck. Sometimes we just come across the greatest bargains, don´t we ? The ASTATIC MF 2500 is the best thing I have ever learned from your experiences and one of the very finest MM carts ever produced and sounds just fantastic in my system. Gracias. |
Dear @harold-not-the-barrel : I don't know the year you bougth the ATN 20SS through LP Gear but 200.00 is a low price for a NOS. I seen prices for it as high as 480.00, so your price was a fair one but maybe was not a true original sample.
AT cartridges as any other cartridge design has the " house " signature and as you said the AT is not your coup of tea.
I like some of the AT/Signet designs as the 20SS or the AT24/25 or the TK10ML2 and even the anniversary one that as you I sold it.
Btw, yes Moving Flux designs are very good you have too that MF-2500 or even the MF-200
R. |
Dear @travbrow : Yes the D3 is really good and you will have a very good contest against your 2000.
Your D3 will improve more that you can imagine when the suspension settle down and you can go to lower VTF. D3 always a winner.
R. |
Dear @lewm I was so " stupid " about that aluminum characteristic that started to ask my re-tipper to use aluminum cantilever with pressure fit stylus.
Latter on I took in count : Raul if that's so good why Lyra did not use it?
After that I retipped again all those cartridges with boron/line contact and all perfors/performed way way better.
I learn from my mistakes.
R. |
Dear @lewm : As build cantilevers materials the best are: Boron and diamond.
In the old times the " law " wa berillyum that's not even near the boron characteristics about stiffness non resonances and the like that has boron/diamond.
Was J.Carr whom answer here to a question about stylus/cantilever " atachment " who said that all but aluminum needs some " glue " and that in a cantilever of aluminum the stylus can be attached by pressure only. He did not say that is an advantage or whcich vintage manufacturers did it. He only gave an overall answer.
Yes, my ADC 26/27 comes with aluminum and is outstanding and my Nagatron 9600 even with that inferior stylus replacement comes with aluminum too and performs really good buth both cartridges and many others with aluminum cantilevers performs at that high quality performance not becvause the cantilever material but because the quality design and excecution quality levels of the CARTRIDGE MOTOR.
Ceramic is terrible for say the least. My Lyra Clavis D'capo was designed with a ceralloy cantilever and performs " so so " and when I re-tipped with boron cantilever and through the very first listening sessions you can sware it's a totally new cartridge design.
But is not the only first hand experiences with ceramic: SAEC original ceramic headshells in its top tonearms are absolutely resonant and terrible, AT made ceramic mats as Audiocraft too that I owned and both extremely terrible, remember that Graham tonearm in one of its versions he choosed ceramic for his tonearms was terrible too. Today Linn top of the line LOMC cartridge comes with boron and ceramic but I never experienced this one.
Titanium is a little better than ceramic but nothing for cantilevers can beats boron and diamond.
Again, at the end the quality performance of any cartridge belongs mainly in the CARTRIDGE MOTOR. Yes, cantilever/stylus shape and other cartridge parts are important too but that motor is the name of the game.
Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS, R. |
travbrow, slimpikins & all, My AT150ANV was sapphire pipe + Micro Line and played just fine and tracked everything easily but didn´t make magic, like all ATs I have had.
My ATN20SS was indeed probably just goofied by the seller but a serious audiophile like me would expect a flawless sample for a new 200 USD replacement stylus of highest quality level according to specs advertised, right ? Never got rid of the sibilance, no matter how I changed VTA and cart´s body/stylus positioning to achieve on-center tracking. Dominic said he fixed all and I believe him 100 % but I just wanted to get rid of the damn thing.
Nandric is absolutely right about that ONLY aluminium cantilevers provide the tightest fit to a stylus, glue is not needed at all. Following that advice I bought many years ago a NOS Glanz MFG-51L w/ aluminium cantilever + Line Contact. And it´s truly a superb performer, competes with MFG-610LX w/ beryllium cantilever, in my system. I would highly recommend both these true HQ vintage MF carts. |
@lewm Cantilevers have been made from aluminum, aluminum alloys, boron both hollow and solid, beryllium, titanium, sapphire or ruby, and diamond. That’s a nearly complete list, unless you want to include carbon fiber and cactus. I would add my two rare Ceramic cantilevers made by Grace (Shinagawa Musen LTD) in the late 80’s for LEVEL II and F14 models. This is definitely the most exotic cantilever and extremely rare. Never seen anything like that from any other manufacturer! |
Cantilevers have been made from aluminum, aluminum alloys, boron both hollow and solid, beryllium, titanium, sapphire or ruby, and diamond. That’s a nearly complete list, unless you want to include carbon fiber and cactus. What do you suppose is so special about beryllium in that list? Are there any metallurgical engineers among us?I also take seriously the point often made by Nandric that only for aluminum cantilevers can the diamond be actually mounted through the cantilever itself, without requiring much in the way of glue. That may afford a big advantage to aluminum over some others.
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Just from everything I have read from people who have a lot more experience than I do, the Beryllium was the best material ever used for cantilever's. According to one individual who worked for Audio Technica, they were unable to reproduce anything which came close to the performance of the Beryllium after its use was banned by the EPA due to the toxicity of the material while manufacturing with it.
My own direct observations from having the AT15s Universal stylus which is the Shibata diamond mounted on the Aluminum cantilever vs. the AT15ss Super Shibata diamond Beryllium is that there is a huge difference in performance, I mean night and day, not just a slight improvement. The Beryllium cantilever is far more detailed with a much more expansive mid/upper range with superior sound stage/imaging.
I cannot comment on the other variations of aluminum cantilevers as I have only played with the AT15/20 version, but the difference from Beryllium was so remarkable that I don't really have much interest in it.
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Audio Technica’s newest crop of cartridges, at least the MM ones I looked at, now use aluminum cantilever. Some say the AT 150sa aluminum/shibata is in the same league as the AT 150Mlx which is beryllium/micro line. Just slightly different presentation. I owned the AT150sa and the AT150ANV. The 150 ANV was not worth the difference in cost, IMO. |
Harold, I will bet my bottom dollar that the stylus you picked up from LP gear had been mishandled and that is why the cantilever was off axis. I have an AT15ss with the same problem, but it was totally due to pilot error on my part. I was working around the turntable and inadvertently hit the tone arm which did a fast swing to the left and the stylus hit the edge of the record which bent it off axis. Believe it or not, it still played fine afterwards, however I know that it was not tracking in line properly.
I spoke to soundsmith about it, Peter told me not to fix it if it isn’t broken and the easiest thing to do is to cock the cartridge body off axis a couple of degrees to align the cantilever with the proper tracking direction. I ended up replacing it to keep things simple.
I don’t know much about the AT 20Sla other than I believe it’s the aluminum cantilever and that is a far cry from the Beryllium from my experience in listening. But if you don’t like the sound of the AT carts, I understand as we all have a different set of ears.
One other question: when you received your AT20ss stylus, did it come with a response graph in the box? My original came with a paper graph read out of the full frequency range of the stylus.
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Harold, I had an AT 150ANV with the sapphire cantilever and micro line. Is that the one you owned? It was the top modern MM model from Audio Technica. It was an excellent performer but I sold it. They increased the price, quite a bite, of the leftover stock , so I sold mine for close to the cost I paid new. |
Hi bimasta and dgarretson, what does the stylus guard look like on your 2000z models? Is the Empire logo in red or just plain raised lettering? I’ve seen supposedly NOS samples with both types.
Also the 2000z has better specs compared to the 4000DIII. Lower tip mass, better tracking ability, lower distortion, flatter frequency response and better separation at some frequency ranges. Although a bigger tip profile.
I’ve been breaking in my newest Empire 4000DIII. The suspension must be a little stiff because I had distortion and poor tracking ability with even highest recommended tracking force. I raised the tracking force and it’s sounding great. Hopefully with more time on it I can lower the tracking force within the recommended range.
Dont know when I’ll get around to trying the 2000z, but I’ll report back when I do, and I’ll have a good reference point against the 4000DIII. |
About seven yrs ago I bought off eBay an Audio-Technica AT20Sla w/ original stylus (according to the seller and it looked that). It didn´t sound so good (sibilant) so I ordered a new replacement stylus, ATN20SS from LPGear. I thought I had in my hand the best possible stylus for this "legendary" vintage cartridge. To my great surprise the cantilever was a few degrees off-axis from new. Well, that´s about the quality level and I realized that those ATN20SS styli are just mass production, not really "hand selected special samples", nothing more nothing less. The problem was an annoying sibilance sound even after 100 hours play on clean records, despite its perfect trackability (100 microns on a test record). I sent the cart and both styli to Dominic Harper in UK, waited more than a year and he fixed the cantilevers and checked all the cart body and both styli and said now everything´s OK and both play just fine, also the original stylus. Dominic did fabulous job as a true pro would but I never touched the fixed cart/styli and sold the damn thing on eBay for a good price. I also had a NOS AT-ANV150 (MM), well nothing special soundwise really so sold it too. Never ever will waste my time and money on Audio-Technica cartridges. As some serious/experienced audiophiles also here on A´gon say, AT carts have a household sound ? Well whatever the case, not my cup of tea, in the end of a day. |
Raul, I have an excellent listening room. I have 10,000 cubic feet of space, 18 feet high of vaulted ceiling; a pair of Anthem M1 mono block amplifiers at 2000 watts per channel, Bryston Signature series Model T main speakers, three sub woofers, two from Axiom Audio who builds the Bryston's and a Bryston Model T sub. The TT I mentioned already only I forgot to say that the Ares3 has the super platter. And the lovely SME Series IV arm. Also my new from a month ago Gold Note PH 10, which is fabulous.
All that being said, I have never wanted to change out the AT15ss to a MC as the dynamic range output of the AT15ss is simply hard to imagine being bested by anything made. I don't listen to classical or jazz, I am 100 percent rock/electronic/funk.... MC types are not really geared towards this type of music, at least from what every audio guy I know says. I have been on the hunt for a NOS AT20ss stylus for over a decade and I was lucky enough to locate someone who had several; so I bought them all. I installed the first one, which I am currently using and it's equal to my NOS 15ss, only it's ever so slightly more detailed on the very upper end.
BTW, my brother has an original AT20ss too. He bought it decades ago when I bought mine as he was so impressed. He broke the stylus and has not used it in years. I may try to buy the body from him.
A close friend of mine was over last weekend, he's into audio too, but on the more limited scale (he's really cheap :) ). He's never heard my system; so we had cocktails and played a lot of music. He wanted to hear Sgt. Pepper, so I put it on... a mint original copy I have from decades ago. He was mesmerized; he said he had never heard music like this; he meant so detailed. Rick said there were instruments in the various cuts he had never heard before. I said that is what a fine system can do. |
Dear @slimpikins5 : 4 NOS?, well you are really lucky about because the 15/20SS always be a great quality performer. Seems to me that you was enough patience to look for those NOS 20SS stylus replacements, good.
Yes, as I told you the ATN15SS is exactly the same as the ATN20SS, the difference is that the 20SS is hand selected. To be aware of listening differences during playing we have to have an overall top high resolution room/system.
Any one could live happy for ever with the AT20SS phono cartridge with out to switch to other one, no doubt about.
R. |
Raul; believe it or not, I have on hand 4 NOS in the original double packaging Audio Technica AT-20ss stylus'. One is in my cartridge with under 50 hours on it and the other 3 are stored for the future.
I use the AT20ss with the SME Series IV tone arm on a VPI Ares3 TT feeding my new Gold Note PH10 phono preamp. I find that for most recordings 47K ohm input with the RIAA enhanced setting works great. On some recordings where I'd prefer a little warmer sound, I flip the PH10 to the 22K setting. I have done some experimenting with capacitance settings and I find the 220 pf to 250 pf range works best with my 2.5 foot audio cables. I understand that many feel the 100K ohm input loading is best with MM, but I suspect it would be far too bright with my AT20ss.
I have been using the AT15ss for decades and now the AT20ss. Both are the same as far as I can tell; there is no audible difference as they are equally amazing. |
Dear friends: Other " lucky " advantage with my Nagatron 9600 sample and " way inferior " stylus replacement is that due that has not stylus holder then there is not the usual vibrations/resonances developed by that stylus holder.
It runs like a LOMC design in that regards or like the ADC TRX series or B&O or top Signet/Technics ones or even Grado. Yes, it's an important issue.
Btw, I own too a Nagatron 350 re-tipped by vDh. I will test it when I have some time to do it.
R. |
Dear @slimpikins5 : Yes, some of the Blue Bros. could be original . What makes me think a little with the one you bougth from that source is that they have on sale replacement for the 14 and 12 AT series for higher price than the 15SS that's top of the line. Seems a little " weird ".
I still own an original ATN15SS in original double box.
Time to time through other sources as ebay appears the 15SS. Difference with the 20SS is that this one is hand selected but it's similar AT stylus replacement.
R. |