Which amp with Wilson watt puppy 8

If I’m not mistaken the resistors in Wilson Audio speakers will melt and protect the drivers.
But I’m wondering why you are driving your speakers to such high DB levels? These speakers will handle high volume and powerful amps. But once the amp starts clipping you’re running a risk of frying the tweeters. Or in the case if Wildon, resistors. So either get a more powerful amp or don’t play your system at deafening levels or better yet do both. 

I spoke to Jeff from Jeff Rowland (yeah the guy himself answered the phone !). He clearly said there was no problem with the electronics, blowing drivers at a certain amount of volume is normal,

So it sounds like instead of blaming Sonus Faber for your woes, you are willing to accept the responsibility for what happened? Did I read that right?

Lotta opinions here but apparently little experience with your particular equipment.

I have owned Wilson W/P 7's 20+ years - very similar to series 8 - so maybe I can help?

The titanium tweeter in this vintage of Wilson's IS a little hot and not as refined as more modern drivers.  Despite this, these speakers still DO have merits at their current used values.

Not sure how well the Rowland amp you have matches the Wilson's.

I suggest trying a Pass Labs or, at lower cost, possibly a Parasound amp to drive the W/P 8's.  What you are looking for is lots of current drive and a smooth top end to balance that tweeter.

I use my W/P 7's in a third system so didn't want to break the bank driving them.  Ended up acquiring a used Parasound A21+.  Turns out there is great synergy with a smoother top end and enough drive and transparency to enjoy these vintage speakers.  I'm sure a Pass 250.8 would be even better but at double or triple the cost - so hey make your choice.

Remember the impedance curve of the W/P's dips to near 2 ohms below 100 hz, so the amp must be able to deliver lots of current.  Some amps have a high wattage rating but are NOT at their best into such loads.

Hope this helps.

Good luck!

Thanks to ya’all! Lots of useful information. Thank you @lanx0003 for your master class in physics, sorry I didn’t catch all of it, although I have a PhD 🥸.  
Maybe you could send me more details in private (with a physics/maths lesson😜)
Decibel X is a nice simple tool. I did a little test drive. 
First, it happens so that the sound is nicer using my ps audio DS’ preamp in direct mode. 
Second, I can go up to 100 on that preamp and the speakers will follow no problem. At 100, I get +- 90dB coming out. (I tried a few seconds very gently, I can already see a few 😲 and 🫣’s out there). 
Going back through je JR, that level is reached at 80%, which means there is another 20% extra dangerous power (or whatever you would call it), and the speakers would go above 90dB …(I didn’t try) That is the accidental range on this amp where any driver would be damaged, especially tweeters at high frequencies (I saw them smoking last time, the membrane literally melted while pushing the volume up with a test tone) 

Seems like Pass Labs are very appreciated by WA owners. Looking for PLb’s,  found a pair of Chord spm1400 mk2, and Mcintosh 12000 with good discounts. I wonder if anybody has tried those. 

Something is certainly wrong. I drive my Wilson Alexia's with a pair of Conrad Johnson's big LP275M tube mono blocks (eight ST120 tubes in each one) with fabulous results. I can play Pink Floyd's Dark Side of The Moon, or AC/DC Thunderstruck at levels that are well beyond sanity, or the ability of artwork to remain on the walls of my listening room without any notice of distortion.