Watts and power


Can somebody break it down in layman's terms for me? Why is it that sometimes an amp that has a high watt rating (like, say, a lot of class D amps do) don't seem to always have the balls that much lower rated A or AB amps do? I have heard some people say, "It's not the watts, it's the power supply." Are they talking about big honkin' toroidal transformers? I know opinions vary on a speaker like, say, Magnepans - Maggies love power, right? A lot of people caution against using class D amps to drive them and then will turn around and say that a receiver like the Outlaw RR2160 (rated at 110 watts into 8 ohms) drives Maggies really well! I'm not really asking about differences between Class D, A, or AB so much as I am asking about how can you tell the POWER an amp has from the specs? 
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I don’t care about all the mumbo jumbo on how things are calculated just like I don’t care about how cubic inches relates to horsepower. IME, quality SS amps that doubles its power from 8 ohms down to 2 have been better sounding amps to me. Tube amps sound like they produce more power than its ratings vs SS amps but the tube amps I’ve had or I’ve listened to can’t control the bass drivers compared to SS amps.
Nobody here has mentioned anything about how McIntosh amps state there ratings. Most of their higher end models produce the same watts at each ohm. They have autoformers/power guard systems that others don’t, good or bad.
I have tested this watt vs current scenario using my old Totem Mani II’s that are very difficult to drive. This was 15 years ago, I had a 200 watt Classe 200 amp that doubles down for each ohm. In my home theater room, I had an audio receiver with a 200 watt rating but didn’t double down or even close. The audio receiver made the Totems sound thin and lifeless. I Took my Totems to my friends audio room that we hooked them up to a pair of Mcintosh 1000 watt monoblocks and they sounded fantastic at very high spl levels. I think the mani’s state wattage up to 150 watts and we were well over 240 watts according to the meters on the amps.
I’ve tried many times trying to get buy with integrated amps claiming they have good wattage with high damping claims, but always end up with a separate amp that has the same wattage as the integrated but has much more power that controls the speakers much better than the integrated
Ralph, is it possible some amps have too low an omph factor?.
:) Yes, I'm sure that's true.

The difference in acoustic power delivery between amplifiers regardless of design class eventually comes down to the maximum instantaneous peak voltage the power supply can deliver relative to its RMS average power rating. 
Music can demand peak to average power ratios as high as 10 times or more the average output.
Class D amps are limited to the maximum rail voltage of the power supply.  A more traditional power supply with large transformers and very high capacity filter caps can potentially deliver several times the rail voltage on peak demand as the caps discharge before hitting clipping.So an amplifier with deep voltage and current reserves beyond it's nominal rating can deliver higher average power in relation to peak demands than one with a lesser power supply of the same rating.
Class D and linear amps have the exact same rail voltage limitations. They often have the same linear power supply front ends. Certainly audiophile Class D amps. They also get more oomph out of the same sized capacitor bank for real music.


It's torque at the wheels that moves a car, not engine torque. I can always convert more horsepower to more wheel torque with gearing. 


Many consumer brand receivers have poor ability to drive difficult loads and poor damping factor. The more audiophile brands even though rated lower watts at 8 Ohm tend to be much better. 


Everything is designed to a price point. Not doubling in power into 2 ohms (continuous) is often just a factor of the limitation of the transformer. It can only transfer so much power. A nice capacitor bank can give you much of the benefit for real music (not simple sine wave power tests).
Power is the product of the signal voltage * current * the cos(phase angle between them).
That cos term and the ability to act as an ideal source as the load impedance drops, is what makes most of the difference when it comes to balls.
The cos term varies between +1 and 0 as a factor depending on whether the load is completely inductive or capacitive, or something in between, at a given frequency. A purely resistive load will always be a factor of 1.
The impedance, usually simplistically thought of as 8 or 4 ohms, can often vary as low as 1 ohm or as high as 20 ohm, as a composite of resistance, inductance and capacitance.
A good indicator of the balls of an amp is if it can double its’ output power down to loads as small as 1 ohm. Most can’t.
Then there’s the concept of bridging or strapping an amp to make it a mono-block. In the case of bridging an amp, the two outputs are connected in series, out of phase, potentially doubling the voltage swing, but the same current capability, across the two pos terminals. This can result in a potential V**2/R power increase of 4x. Strapping places the two outputs in parallel, resulting in the same output voltage swing but with a potential doubling of the current capability. You might think that this could also result in an I**2*R 4x power increase but it doesn’t because the required voltage level can’t be met.
What this means is that in my opinion, the strapped output results in a much ballsier amp, able to easily drive difficult loads, than the bridging case. The BAT VK tube amps, and Accuphase A200 or A250 comes to mind. If you have a relatively easy load, the bridged case will likely provide greater volume or power levels but will peter out (current starved) if trying for the same levels with a difficult load loudspeaker.