Vibration control. Tube equipment. What's the best way to do it ?

I am a believer in draining away resonances from the components- and any component, not just tube amps, speakers included, as opposed to attempting to "absorb" it, or convert the resonances into heat. This is the approach Live Vibe takes.

The way to do this properly is to remove the wood, and have the component rest on the cones, which contact the floor. The wood is preventing your cones from doing their job, which is to drain the resonances from the component. The cones effectiveness would improve if you added their coupling discs, but it would improve even more if you had one of their platforms, which come with the cones and coupling discs.

Proof is in the pudding, I have them and they work. I can’t say if they are better than the vibration converted into heat approaches, as I haven’t compared them to HRS, Artensania, or Symposium, but they absolutely clean up the sound, improve clarity and reduce smearing much better than my old Solid Tech reference rack did, which uses the spring isolation method.

As with anything you have to listen and see if you like the improvements. It is possible one’s music is too lean, too clean, and they already have too much separation between instruments, and they may prefer more smearing and muddier bass in their music- it's possible. 

We have different schools of thought here, as expected.

Remove the wood..just put the amp on the cones and leave it on the floor. This is the easiest thing to try. Nordost cones under the amp is not very difficult either.

With my previous SS amp I tried both brass cones and Boston Audio graphite vibration absorbing tune blocks under it. There was no wood, the amp was on the rack shelf. With brass cones it was clearly better.

On the other hand, I use Boston Audio tune blocks under tape deck and coned speakers, and in this case this set up sounds better than just cones.

I use Mapleshade boards and brass cones under everything...great stuff

@inna Maple is a harder wood, more dense, tighter grain than the Baltic Birch, resultant sound is less warm.

There is no single isolation solution, so many variables, combos of all sorts may get one to final voicing and/or max transparency/resolution. Forgot to mention I also use Isoacustics products in certain situations, pretty effective in the warmer realm of voicing. I'd also add no footer as in my hanging via fish line method is the most neutral or voiceless solution, my fav for dacs and cdplayers.

HRS. Although I found the positives varied greatly from component to component.