You mean Caliburn, Boulder, etc, attempt to hold DOWN costs? I don't believe it. Or rather, I believe they attempt to hold their costs down, but not the price tag to he consumer. At a certain level (and maybe at lots of levels -- $2k/meter cables? -- the far and away most obvious selling point is just how damned expensive the product is compared to the alternatives!), higher price tag is what the consumer WANTS, and helps the sale. So the very highest cost/end manufacturers wouldn't, I think, hesitate to supply whatever they felt would induce the illusion of the truly best performance, including supplying dedicated power cords and electrical outlets and hosts of other "tweaks".
Some audiophiles always modify even their expensive gear because they are tweakers and want something unique, plain and simple.
But what, exactly, constitues this "unreliability" of high end audio power supplies that you mention? And how would simlpy changing a household power outlet cause a significant change to the sound (via a change in output to the speakers) from said high end audio equipment?
There is no exact answer but many designs are less than adequate and response drifts both over time and due to sensitivity to operating temperature. These design issues create the mystique of burn in and and keeping equipment always on or warmed up. It is possible to design equipment to minimize these issues but that would mean some folks dismiss the gear as "unresolving".
On the outlet side - the countless number of ground loop issues due to poor design, equipment incompatibility and the wide use of RCA (unbalanced) alone explains why unplugging and plugging something back in will often change the response.
In my philosophy, when equipment performs unreliably you should change it. Whilst others see differences in performance as a sure sign that the gear has resolving power. Sales people will tend to propagate the opposing philosophy to what I hold - naturally, rather than admit that something performs a little inadequately (and perhaps take it back) they suggest instead that the buyer consider to purchase an expensive power cord or upgrade the home wiring because the gear is so resolving it requires it. (In other words, there is nothing wrong with the gear you just bought - look for your problem elsewhere. Rather a convenient an attractive philosophy for a sales person.)
Its not in the interest of amplifier manufacturers to provide high end power cords. Privately, the amplifier designers may not place much sonic value in high end power cords or wall outlets. But sales of expensive amplifiers depend on the audiophile's belief that quality/expense of any component is correlated with beautiful sound.
But sales of expensive amplifiers depend on the audiophile's belief that quality/expense of any component is correlated with beautiful sound.
In most amplfiers the single most expensive item on the BOM will be be the beautiful thick brushed steel face plate. The control knobs are often the second most expensive item. The same goes for speakers - the woodwork and veneer is the most costly item. So nice high end gear is indeed truly expensive becuase teh actually are more costly to make.
I take it as a compliment to be aligned with Doubting Thomas, but your analogy is nevertheless a particularly felicitous one, since our conflict--friendly, I hope--does appear to pit the religious against the skeptics. My problem with doubting Thomas is that he didn't doubt enough. In any case, though Thomas fingered the wound, I don't intend to finger a upgraded wall socket. Cheers, or Amen, depending.
Br3098, your points are well made. I have been in HiFi long enough to remember the introduction of 8track. I think it is easier to put in a new outlet than cleaning and adjusting an old one. The present interest in wires (of all kinds) is the result of no real technological advances in audio since CD (besides power switching amps, which I have) and the longevity of today's gear. Turntables, CD players, pre-amps, power amps, speakers; that's about it. If people are not swapping out their gear, you have to sell them something; outlets, power chords, interconnects, speaker terminals, speaker wire, etc for prices that indicate extremely large improvement. One can draw one's own conclusions.
Let's break this down to a basic, black and white level first. The shades of gray can wait.
Will you spend thousands, even tens of thousands of dollars for an amp, speakers, etc., then plug it all into a 20 year old receptacle that is so worn out that it can barely keep the stock plug from falling out?
Saying, "but that's different" is an admission that receptacles make a difference. Saying "of course; why not?" means looking at that sagging cord and wondering and occasionally pushing the plug back in. Or not. Why would you if it doesn't matter?
Which side of the fence are you on? No sitting in the middle; it won't support you. It's too tall to straddle, too.
I can tell you - I changed fancy Leviton plugs to Porter Ports this week, and it made a very big difference for the better. The system is cleaner and clearer throughout,lyrics are much easier to understand, instruments I never knew were there, are clearly displayed. Porterports are certainly worth the asking price.
I've had very good results using Oyaide SWO-GX and Furutech gold plated. I did not have a good experience with some other aftermarket outlets and eventually took those out of the system. My experimentation was done mostly with my CDP.
I installed Synergistic Research Teslaplex outlets on all three of my dedicated lines and the difference was huge! There is something to be said about there Quantum Tunneling process.
Now that the smoke has cleared from this thread, I'll tell you that I just ordered a Porter Port and will be running a dedicated circuit this weekend. Regardless of the argument, when someone says they noticed a very big improvement, I'm willing to spend $40 plus the cost of the wire (that I already have and purchased when gas was still cheap a few years ago) to find out for myself. My current outlet is old enough to be considered an antique and quite possibly could be 50 years old. If anyone's going to notice a difference, it's going to be me. I'll let you guys know in a week or two how it goes.
Well, I put in a PorterPort a week ago and the differance was very noticable. At first it was a little edgee. After two days of burn in it smoothed out and added depth and focus to my Oppo BDP-83. My Virtue Two is on battery power and that was a huge upgrade. Everyone may not here the differance as I did. But since I put wall treatments in my listening room I've been able to hear subtle differances. Hope this helps. zman
As you have now realized, based on ACTUALLY TRYING THE UPGRADES YOURSELF, and on your own AURAL ACUITY; improvements to your power supply(whether internal to the components, or to your AC source) can yield obvious and audible benefits. KUDOS for ignoring the naysayers, pseudo-scientists and Julian Hirsch clones. HAPPY LISTENING!!
Unequivocally, yes. I've had many of the same others have had: first PS Audio, then FIM 880 (gold and regular), now FIM on one outlet, Oyaide R1 on one and Synergistic Teslaplex on one. All different sounding: I THINK the Teslaplex may actually be the most neutral of them all, but I'm not sure. I'll plug both the integrated and the CD player into the Audience aR2-T (Teflon version, which will tell you everything you ever wanted to know about what your equipment ACTUALLY sounds like without making it sound "bass-ier", "more 3D" "better highs" and the like (although it can do that, but only per recording, not on ALL recordings [which would likely be a coloration, anyway, right?] and then report back. But yes, I had wondered why my highs were softened (pre-Audience, by the way) until I changed to the Oyaide and the lower treble range (trianges, tambourines) reappeared -- without brightness. I belive the FIM has a very slight suckout in that frequency as well as softening transients, although it's quite nice. The PS Audio Power Ports don't have that softening effect at all, but I haven't used them in years, so I'd have to re-install them. Bottom line? Outlets matter.
No secret that audiohiles are always looking for ways to improve their system, even suttle improvements can be a mile stone to some. I see no problem replacing a standard outlet to one that is upgraded, certainly couldn't hurt anything. I have had a passing thought of upgrading my outlet only because it no longer provides a tight fit for my heavy power cord, maybe the change can also offer a sonic improvement.
A quality aftermarket power cord (I mention this because of its importance in delivering power) can make a slight to huge difference in sound quality depending on the associated gear. As long as the power cord is supplying sufficient amperage the biggest advantage comes from its ability to filter out RFI. This creates a quieter soundstage allowing the finest details to come through.
A dedicated line is also good & I have one using 12/2 Romex. It was already there because I purchased my home from a videophile. On this dedicated line I don't have to worry about induced noises coming from appliance motors and florescent lighting nor brief periods of voltage drops when an appliance initially kicks in.
I just added two 20 amp circuits for my power amps using 10gauge with ground wire. I used Leviton 20A Heavy Duty Outlets. The difference is large. I have blacker back ground and smoother definition. I am also taking all appliances off the electric grid moving them to gas. This will create less demand for amps and to allow my stereo dedicated circuits to breathe more freely.
I have a question about using 30 amp breakers. There are people using 30 amp breakers for there 10 gauge wire and 110 circuits. The only way I know to use a 30 amp breaker and meet code is to use 3 wire instead of 2 and install a 4 plex so each side of the 4 plex is 15 amps. Is there another way to meet code and use a 30 amp breaker? IF you were only going to plug a big amp in would a 20 amp breaker be preferred?
If a 20 amp receptacle is used, (NEMA 5-20R), then a 20 amp breaker must be used. The minimum size copper wire would be #12 awg. If #10 awg copper wire is used the breaker still has to be a 20 amp.
If a 15 amp duplex receptacle is used, (NEMA 5-15R), then a 15 or 20 amp breaker can be used. If the branch circuit wire is 14 awg then a 15 amp breaker must be used.
The current carrying guts inside a 15, 20, and 30, amp breaker are the same. Only the trip units are different.
If there is a problem with nuisance tripping caused by inrush current of a power amp most breaker manufactures make a "High Magnetic" type breaker that will allow more lag time before tripping due to high inrush current.
Thanks for showing me the High Magnetic breakers. It turns out I am using square D as shown. I am thinking of buying a pair of Bryston 28SST amps. I probably will replace my breakers then. The Leviton receptacle does have a supporting silver steel strap on the back. Why?
I just swapped out a Porter Port for a Maestro outlet, and there was a significant improvement! Detail, soundstage depth and width increase, and I have to say it again, Detail.
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