Very happy with the gold note so far, may have gone with one of the earlier suggestions and possibly have been dissapointed if not for Al and his impedance matching observations.
Ugraditus is calling....again. Phono stage?
There is likely nothing wrong at all with present phono stage but you know how it is.
Present analog front end consists of.
Nottingham Analog Spacedeck with Spacearm.
Shelter 501 mk3 cartridge with maybe 250 hours on it, regularly treated with Lyra.
Dynavector P75 mk3 phono stage.
Feeds into Lyngdorf 2170 via Nordost Red Dawn RCA cables.
My thoughts were that possibly the Dynavector is the weakest link and would pay most dividend on an upgrade but.....
What do I perceive I am lacking right now?
Really hard to say as this is highest quality analog front end ever owned.
Possibly lacking a little in sheer scale and dynamics? Bass is very very good, instruments are well separated and defined.
Just as an overall presentation I feel it lacks that final wow factor as a whole.
Not sure if that makes any sense?
Please comment honestly especially if you feel it is another area that may reap larger benefits. Or if should just leave well alone....lol.
Oh btw I am fairly sure it is setup correctly in regards to vta etc, at least to the best of my abilities right now. And yes setting it up correctly from initial purchase did make considerable gains in sq.
Present analog front end consists of.
Nottingham Analog Spacedeck with Spacearm.
Shelter 501 mk3 cartridge with maybe 250 hours on it, regularly treated with Lyra.
Dynavector P75 mk3 phono stage.
Feeds into Lyngdorf 2170 via Nordost Red Dawn RCA cables.
My thoughts were that possibly the Dynavector is the weakest link and would pay most dividend on an upgrade but.....
What do I perceive I am lacking right now?
Really hard to say as this is highest quality analog front end ever owned.
Possibly lacking a little in sheer scale and dynamics? Bass is very very good, instruments are well separated and defined.
Just as an overall presentation I feel it lacks that final wow factor as a whole.
Not sure if that makes any sense?
Please comment honestly especially if you feel it is another area that may reap larger benefits. Or if should just leave well alone....lol.
Oh btw I am fairly sure it is setup correctly in regards to vta etc, at least to the best of my abilities right now. And yes setting it up correctly from initial purchase did make considerable gains in sq.
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@rsf507 At this stage I have zero complaints. I just love the total flexibility of being able to change settings like gain and loading etc right from front panel. This makes for easy instantaneous comparison and much nicer than opening up and moving jumpers etc. It is extremely well built, almost a work of art to boot. Nice touch is outputs on both xlr and RCA. Also two sets of inputs so you could set up for 2 different cartridge and only have to flip from input 1 to 2. A lot to like so far! |
@analogluvr & @uberwaltz, Like many others here I’ve been delighted with the ART9. Among its many excellent qualities I would say that the one which stands out the most is simply its neutrality, meaning that it doesn’t seem to overemphasize or underemphasize any part of the spectrum. Dynamics and resolution of detail are also excellent. To provide context, for the better part of the previous 30+ years I was using various incarnations of the Grace F-9E and F-9E Ruby. Most recently an F-9 with Soundsmith’s $350 "Ruby Cantilever / Nude Contact Line Diamond" stylus/cantilever assembly. Which is a very nice cartridge, but I found it to be not quite as accurate or dynamic as the ART9. My tonearm is a 1980’s Magnepan Unitrac I, which has a relatively low effective mass of 8 grams. The ART9 has a highish compliance, specified as 18 × 10-6 cm/dyne at 100Hz, which I suspect probably means something like 30 x 10-6 cm/dyne at the 10 Hz frequency that compliance specs provided by non-Japanese cartridge manufacturers are usually based on. I see that the Lyra Helikon is spec’d at 12 x 10-6 cm/dyne at 100Hz, and has a weight that is very similar to the ART9. Given that as well as the fact that several members here have reported excellent results using the ART9 in medium mass arms I doubt that there would be any compatibility issues using the ART9 in an arm that is suitable for use with the Helikon. I’m uncertain about compatibility in Uberwaltz’s case, though, as I’m not familiar with his arm and the compliance of his Shelter cartridge appears to be somewhat lower, at 9 x 10-6 cm/dyne, presumably at 100 Hz since it is made in Japan. Although it’s weight is again very similar to the weight of the ART9. Best regards, -- Al |
Thanks Al for a very informative post as per usual So in my case I may be taking a bit of a chance, my Spacedeck has a stock Spacearm ( as far as I know at least), do not think it will be anything special. However at $860 new on eBay the ART9 is not what you would call high priced so it might be worth a try. |
I also have an SME series 3 but that maybe too light?@analogluvr, on paper a reasonable case could be made both for and against that combination, IMO, so it may very well be worth trying the ART9 in the SME III. A case that could be made for it would be that if the ART9’s compliance at 10 Hz is in fact in the rough vicinity of 30 the 5 gram effective mass of the SME III (according to its listing at vinylengine.com), together with the 8.5 gram weight of the cartridge, would result in a resonant frequency of about 7.9 Hz. While an arm having higher effective mass would result in a resonant frequency somewhat lower than that, and therefore further from the 8 to 12 Hz region that is generally considered to be optimal. A case that could be made against it would be that many people have reported great results with the ART9 when used in medium mass arms. In any event, best of luck if you decide to purchase one. Best regards, -- Al |
Hi Uberwaltz, By just about all accounts that I've seen the ART7, like the ART9, is an excellent cartridge. However, its very low output will definitely be a problem for many phono stages, in terms of noise. Specifically, its rated output of 0.12 mv is about 10.5 db less than the 0.4 mv rated output of your Shelter cartridge. I don't know how the volume control on your 2170 is calibrated, but presuming it adjusts volume in discrete steps, and if you can determine how many db each step corresponds to (perhaps by contacting Lyngdorf) I would suggest the following experiment: Set the gain on the PH-10 to max (65 + 6 = 71 db). Listen to some music, preferably something that has wide dynamic range, and turn up the volume control to the loudest setting you would normally use. Then stop playing the record, increase that volume setting by about 11 db, and see if the hiss level becomes bothersome. It might also be worthwhile to perform the same experiment at 65 and/or 68 db settings of the overall gain. Also, the following post by Pani dated 2-27-2015 in one of the major ART9 threads will be of interest: Dgarretson, I have not heard the ART7 so I cannot comment on its sound per se. Its heartening to know that it can be amplified without SUT. Here is an email that was sent to a friend of mine by Audio Technica:Best regards, -- Al |
Thank you Al For my tastes in music I truly think the art9 would be a better fit regardless after reading that reply from AT. However that is a very useful test to see if at any future stage I could contemplate a true lomc in my present system and will perform it to satisfy my curiosity and increase my depth of knowledge on what is and what is not possible for me. |
P.S: Although I doubt it would happen, it’s possible that running your Shelter cartridge with the PH-10’s gain set to 71 db might result in distortion on musical peaks, due to an overload condition in either its circuitry or in the circuitry in the 2170 that precedes its volume control mechanism. If that were to happen, though, the resulting distortion should be pretty obvious, and would be present even at relatively low settings of the volume control. As I said I doubt that would occur, but if it does you could perform the experiment just with the 65 and/or 68 db settings instead. Best regards, -- Al |
May just put a new cartridge on hold for a while. Just added a SR Blue fuse to the Gold Note and I definitely can hear a sq improvement, very tight and more focused. Actually very very enjoyable so I am not in the mood to upset the apple cart right now. I know there are a lot of fuse haters and doubters out there but I am not one of them! |
Robert I was truly so enthralled by the SQ last night I was flipping vinyl until 1.30am...lol. Another nice aspect of the lyngdorf 2170 and the goldnote, nottingham combo is I can reduce my listening level for these very late night sessions and not really lose anything much at all in dynamics or details. Definitely not something that has always been the case with prior incarnations of gear in my setup. |
Uberwaltz, About a week ago I installed the back-up to my back-up cart, an Ortofon 2M Bronze -- I fricken love it! I probably only have 50 hours tops on it, but the sound is so lush, detailed, & inviting! Dead quiet too. It’s staying on for the time being.. For reference, my main cart is a Sound Smith modded Ortofon Kontrapunkt B (Boron Cant, Ruby Fine Line) and the back-up is a Clearaudio Maestro V2. These are fantastic as well, but different sound signatures. I’m always fidgeting with my system, but I love to have choices. When my mood changes, the cart changes. Have you thought about trying a couple out, that are less expensive? You may be surprised how many great options there are without emptying your pocket. I really love Ortofon as you can tell, and I’ve had two Clearaudio MM, the other being a Virtuoso, very nice sound. I’ve had both Dynavector 10x5 and 20x2h. Equally impressive. |
Robert I had a Clearaudio tt with a Clearaudio cart ( do not remember which the cart was about $550). I remember not being too impressed at the time. However a lot of changes in my system since then. I see you can get the Ortofon 2m Bronze for like $380 shipped on eBay, not a lot of cash for a trial for sure. |
Uberwaltz, Just wanted to give you a quick update: The Lyngdorf is gone, and now I'm using a MicroMega M100. No more A/D conversion for my analog device, which is of course the PH-10. I had a minor WOW moment right off the bat playing vinyl. I always had concerns playing records through the 2170, even though this last time with the 2170 was very, very good. But...now without any digital in the path, and switching from Class D to A/B in the amp, I've hit the sweet spot with the PH-10. Everything sounds so alive and exciting. I've tried to find the input specs for the M100's line/balanced inputs to see if they're a better match with the PH-10, but nothing yet.. I almost thought about selling the PH-10 too, because the M100 has it's own phono stage, but a quick A/B test, made the PH-10 the clear winner. This preamp still amazes me. |
Sounds good Robert I am sure there are much better amps out than the 2170 but the wonders it revealed in my terrible acoustic room means it stays...for now...lol. What I have done is buy two carts, ebay had 15% off today so used my account to buy one and the wifes to buy the second, $180 saved total. ART-9 and ZYX RS30 Both coming from outside the usa so have a couple weeks to wait before I can so some serious comparao testing |
Uberwaltz - I also have the PH-10 and absolutely love it. I'm running mine with a Gold Note Mediterraneo with GN Donatello Gold, which is an amazing combo, BTW. I cannot get over how good this combination is. Your replacing the fuse intrigues me as I found that replacing the fuse in my PS Audio Directstream DAC significantly improved SQ. I initially replaced with SR Red, which I really likes, and then the Audio Magic Beeswax SHD fuse, which was even better and more liquid in it's sound. Many guys on the PS Audio site swear by the AM Beeswax fuses, for what it's worth. What made you try the SR Blue? Have you tried other fuses at all? Thanks! Adam |
Well the ZYX RS30 showed up today so of course I had to fit it right away! First thoughts, thank heaven for the ph10! Needed to scroll through various setting to get the sound as I preferred it, not something easily done when you have to keep opening a box up and moving jumpers around!. So first impression of the cartridge. Quite a bit brighter and detailed than the Shelter. So far I like it with 0db gain( it is 0.24mv) and loading of 470 and the America Columbia curve.But this may change as it breaks in and I cycle through a few more albums. |
The ART is coming from Germany, it is in transit but that is all the tracking says. Rookie mistake on the zyx yesterday. Set the alignment, set the vtf and dropped the needle to play as excited. Doh, did not set the vta! And the zyx is a lot shallower cart than the Shelter so needed a lot of change. Then it sounded much better, nowhere near as bright as previous and a lot more tonal midrange really noticeable on male vocals and acoustic guitar. Same settings on ph10 apart from curve to riaa now. |
I do have a number of 60,s and 70,s records and some of them need help....lol. Tbh the America Columbia curve tames the brightness and harsnhess a fair bit. Which is why the zyx sounded better but ONLY because the vta was way to steep. Once this was corrected riaa regular sounded the best. Certainly glad to have the flexibility of the ph10 and think it was a very good choice for my new phono stage. All those changes in seconds with immediate confirmation from listening not 10 minutes memory. |
PH-10 owners: Do you ever turn your PH-10 off? I don't think I've turned mine off for at least three weeks, even though there has been a day or two during that span that I did not use it. Definitely sounds better after it's been on a few hours, but I'm curious if any of you believe it's good to give it a rest every now and again? I do usually have the display turned off, as I do with all my components. The PH-10's screen does get quite bright, and I feel I'm at the least saving some power, but can say there's any SQ improvement with it on or off. I look forward to reading your opinions. Robert |
Don’t turn my PH10 off except every 7-10 days will shut down for 2-3 hrs then turn back on. I think it helps break-in better this based on how I’ve done other gear over the years. I’m also experimenting with AC cords my dealer is loaning me to try, yes they are making a nice improvement in SQ more to come. |
Uberwaltz, I have tried singled ended with both the 2170 & Micromega, but prefer balanced outs feeding both. The S/N ratio on the Micromega’s balanced inputs are about +3db quieter than the singled ended inputs, and the extra gain using balanced outputs allows me to set the PH-10 at -3db gain which has a much quieter noise floor. Using singled ended outputs, I have to set the PH-10 to 0db or +3db to get the same dynamics, but can’t stand the extra noise that goes with it. The balanced combo has sounded the best everytime, no matter which cart I’m using. |
Interesting. I did a back to back on both and it was not noise floor or dynamics that were the issue. The xlr just gave me a very bright brittle sound with loss of mid and bass. Very tipped up at the top. no manner of adjustment cured that at all. I ran xlr at -3db and rca at present 0db. Matched db levels with the 2170 input sensitivity but to no avail. Just sounded horrible on xlr in my system. Very odd. I wonder if I am missing something in 2170 setup as my OPPO was the same results although much more pronounced on the ph10 You do not have to change anything on the ph10 for the balanced output do you? |
I have considered the possibility of something being wrong using balanced but this would mean 1 of 3 things. 1/ Goldnote wired their xlr plugs incorrectly direct at factory. 2/ Lyngdorf wired their xlr plugs incorrectly direct at factory. 3/ Wireworld wired their cables incorrectly direct at factory. None of those seem likely but who knows and short of opening things up I am not sure how you can easily test for mistakes like that and how to nail down which would be the culprit if this is the case. |
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