Thinking of trying well fuses…..


So I have been reading the debate on fuses and well class D and have decided to try fuses.

Looking for guidance on brands used and in what components.

Not looking to start a debate or have a bunch of dialog or opinions on the overall topic just want first hand knowledge so I can pick a couple of products and see for myself if it’s real or if it’s Memorex.

Now I am heading out to swim and listen to my Class D NAD or the Yamaha on the deck.

Regards.
128x128earlflynn
@jjss49 I tried to keep it clean in the OP.

Sad was only asking for peoples first hand experience not opinions. 
My bad.
so now we get the same garbage on TWO threads

wonderful

on the audiophile's deathbed, they will never say 'he spent his golden years happily worrying about and trying to discern the difference between and among audiophile fuses'.... 
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And you George.. Take your meds.. and shut UP. What you offer is just OLD HAT
Old hat and the answer to what "snake oil" is being promoted here.

And you need the meds sunshine.

To those "non technical" members that are interested, do not listen to fusers, listen to the techs of this industry that design the audio products.
AND YOU WON"T SEE ANY OF THEM ON THREADS LIKE THIS AGREEING WITH THESE FUSERS
Just clean and tighten your fuse holder and re-new your fuse (if old) with a good quality 50cent Bussman, Littlefuse or similar.
As with "many switch-on surges" they do deteriorate, bend, stretch and get crusty with electrolysis formations on their fusible wire elements before they give out, as these pics show of a fuse wire element ageing over time show. https://ibb.co/9NbTwqK
(even the $$$ boutique ones will age just as much also)
Cheers George



@oldhvymec Amen brother Amen. 
Thanks for the constructive advice you all that gave it. Will leave the main system alone and experiment on my Class A in the office.

Thanks again.
Stick with what you have as with your resolution you won't hear it anyway.
I know everybody is mechanic. NOW jasonbourne52 you know what it takes to be a professional HD master mechanic. Detail!

Hydraulics/electrical/drivetrain/power/environmental control/chassis/design/fabrication/ etc.. I had 12 certs from Mitchell. I didn’t try for NASA or the Rail Road. I had cousins in both. Nasa and Union Pacific.

BUT I did work on modification for the crawler, when they modified the carrier for the shuttle program. Holt

I’ve met only a few HDMM in my life.. VERY FEW...

My sound system and all it’s mods reflect ME, mercy..

Mt Rushmore is missing ONE image. The face that represents the reason WHY America exist. The face of every professional laborer in America.. The ONLY reason America exist..

The mighty mechanic.. Whether big or small, WE all EAT and live because of them. Every war that was ever WON or lost was on the backs of MECHANICS.. The food on your table because of mechanics.
The hole you get buried in, MECHANICS...

Enjoy your freedom and the ability to be jasonbourne58 in a pretty FREE society. Shake a mechanics hand and be thankful the GOOD ones are obsessed, NOT OBTUSE..

And you George.. Take your meds.. and shut UP. What you offer is just OLD HAT, every mechanic does that anyways.. 1st year apprentice stuff.. Clean, Clean, Clean, then clean some more, inspect and repair as needed.

You guys ever fix the water issue? You know the water going down the crapper the WRONG direction? Fix that first, and do something about the cane toads, too.. Though Olivia Newton-John is still a peach, I’ll give you that one.. :-)

Regards
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FFS George! ....Do you really have *Nothing* better to do with the remains of your mortal impermanence ?  
Take your existing fuse out, turn it around and listen. Did you hear any difference?

Get the same busman fuse, NEW, inspect it, and wipe the end caps with some very fine steel wool. Take a piece of elect tape cut it wide enough to cover the glass barrel or use a little dab of silicone and DON’T get it on the end caps..

Total cost.. Time.


+1
To those "non technical" members that are interested, do not listen to fusers, listen to the techs of this industry that design the audio products.
AND YOU WON"T SEE THEM ON THREADS LIKE THIS AGREEING WITH THESE FUSERS
Just clean and tighten your fuse holder and re-new your fuse (if old) with a good quality 50cent Bussman, Littlefuse or similar.
As with "many switch-on surges" they do deteriorate, bend, stretch and get crusty with electrolysis formations on their fusible wire elements before they give out, as these pics show of a fuse wire element ageing over time show. https://ibb.co/9NbTwqK
(even the $$$ boutique ones will age just as much also)
Cheers George

Class D , other fuses won’t make a significant difference. 

       Looking to your honest review………


Take your existing fuse out, turn it around and listen. Did you hear any difference?

Get the same busman fuse, NEW, inspect it, and wipe the end caps with some very fine steel wool. Take a piece of elect tape cut it wide enough to cover the glass barrel or use a little dab of silicone and DON'T get it on the end caps..

IF you have a good contact enhancer put it on the fuse end caps and let it dry, install it. Listen for a change out the gate. You will hear it. Reverse the fuse after an hour of playing, BUT you NOT listening (Ear plugs in). REVERSE the fuse, Remove YOUR ear plugs or muffs and listen (one maybe two minutes) Same test track. What do you hear..

Total cost.. Time.

 The enhancer I make by the ounce @ a whoppin' 5 dollars an ounce.
 A container, graphene compound, a type of never-seize I use and a thinning agent. When it evaporates it is still pliable enough to fill in the gaps "so to speak"

I also do a water base that dries. Distilled water, Graphene and diamond dust (2000 or higher) mix.

Model paint brush and a very thin coating or two..

Have fun..
Okay after reading the $71.00 thread……guess we will not be looking at fuses. Thought it might be interesting.