Thanks! for sharing- bobsjr4 this is true regarding no more amp(s) avail for the SS1 / SS2 models. It would be cool for one of you engineers to figure out how to rebuild one of those things to original Thiel specs (if possible). I have often wondered if Mr. Jim Thiel kept recrods/documents for his designs? If it exists, whom holds his information? Happy Listening! |
ish_mail, Great info, and congratulations. If I’d had more than 20 minutes to research the Thiel unit I may have been your competitor :-) I’m new to subwoofers and it’s a hell of a learning curve. It’s absurd just how complicated simply adding the last bit of low frequencies with a sub is to "get right." I vacillate between throwing in the towel here and there because there is so much information, and so many differing opinions, it seems someone will tell me I’m doing wrong no matter which way I turn. But in my brief check of the Thiels with the JL subs, I did hear some stuff that was promising enough for me to pursue this. And besides, I’m past the return time for the subs and I own them now. Thanks for the suggested set up. JL Audio apparently recommends to avoid using a Slave/Master set up when possible - it’s there for problem solving but not optimal use.
Are you sure? I did worry somewhat about this due to the way the Thiels crossover runs each driver much wider than usual. But, as far as I can tell the CR-1 offers nice flexibility including altering the slope of the crossover frequency, narrowing or widening it, and fine control over the Q and width of the overlapping crossover area itself. It seems to me this should allow a decent blend even with a first order crossover speaker like the Thiels. Thanks for the heads up on the Marchand Electronics unit. It’s good to know as an option. However, especially as a newbie to this stuff, the JL CR-1 still seems more attractive as it was created with JL subs in mind (though can work with any sub) and the controls seem both intuitive and flexible, with some features other crossovers don’t have. (I like the damping control, and the sub/sat balance control, as well as the easy defeat of the subs, etc). I see the Marchand unit can be bought with a first order crossover. On first thought it seems to make sense for use with first order crossover Thiels. But on the other hand, it doesn’t make sense. If I’ve got this right, using a first order crossover on an active crossover in adding a sub, means the sub driver will be run covering a wider range of frequencies than usual, so higher up the passband into the Thiel’s woofer area. But that’s the very type of scenario adding a sub with crossover is supposed to help us avoid. The fact a first order speaker like Thiel runs the drivers over a much wider frequency range is a compromise they had to give in to, in order to maintain phase/time coherency in the design. So it’s not a "good" thing to do in of itself. That’s why I don’t see why it would be a good thing adding a first order crossover with a sub, with the additional overlapping in frequencies that would incur. Ideally we want to minimize frequency overlap between drivers and if we can do it with the sub it seems we should. And it seems the Thiels would benefit having some of the amplifier load taken off their main drivers, like any other speaker. If using a first order crossover with the sub were about maintaining time/phase coherence, I’m not going to have that anyway. The subs will have some delay, and will be placed behind the speakers, hence time delay. I could ideally get them phase coherent with the Thiels with the phase controls, but they’d still be at least a cycle behind in terms of time coherence (unless I go whole hog and want to digitize the entire signal to allow the mains to be delayed for time coherence with the subs - which I’m not yet willing to do. And, btw, isn't that what the Thiel subwoofer integrator does? Digitize the entire signal to mains and subs?). So I’m still unsure as to why the Marchand would be a better choice, even with a first order crossover, vs the JL CR-1. If it’s only price, I’m willing to throw a bit more money at a solution that is more flexible and user friendly. One thing I have worried about is maintaining the Thiels time/phase coherency. If I use an active crossover the mid/tweeter will remain phase coherent, and the woofer will still be playing adding sound and that will be time/phase coherent. So the question is, what effect will the frequencies below the crossover frequency - the sub frequencies - have if they are not time coherent? The intuitive inference is that I would maintain most of the benefits of the Thiel time/phase coherency, in the most critical frequency ranges to my ear, even if the lower frequencies were not perfectly time coherent. Thoughts? What am I getting wrong here? Thanks. |
unsound, I believe I measured for a Thiel sub on it’s side and decided against it - I think it was still a bit too big and I never could find a place in my room I’d want to put it, without crowding the room. The JL subs were very small, yet high quality, so they are really about my only option. bobsjr4 Thanks for the info! As to that mismatched Thiel coax driver, I do seem to remember seeing that add. But wasn't that quite a while ago? I can't find any add for that now. A mismatch of surround/color wouldn't bother me as I always listen with the grill covers on. (I'm not a fan of seeing speaker drivers when listening to music - my brain can't help mapping the sound to the visible drivers, so I "hear" high end stuff like cymbals as being "sound coming from those tweeters"...) |
I'm the one who won the eBay auction for the SI-1 integrator. Can't wait for it to arrive! Prof.: Thiel crossovers can be used with non-Thiel subs. Setup may be somewhat less automatic than with Smartsubs, but no more and often less complicated than using non-Thiel crossovers. For example, the SI-1 makes it easy for non-experts to integrate any main speakers with Thiel Smartsubs, but it has essentially the same controls as the CR-1. Real differences: The SI-1 is fully balanced; the CR-1 is not (only its inputs/outputs are balanced). The SI-1 uses first-order crossovers; the CR-1 uses 4th-order crossovers. It's also possible to use Thiel's passive PXO5 crossovers with non-Thiel subs. I'm temporarily using the PXO5 that previously fed my Thiel SW-1 to mate my F112s in mono/augment mode with my CS3.7s. The JLA's integrate very well even though I haven't bothered to match levels for this temporary configuration. I did, however, use a rough calculation and the JLA phase controls to phase align the system. This yielded impressive improvements in soundstage and slam and, overall, the best sound ever from my system. A simple and cost-effective solution for Prof's system, running the subs mono/augment, might be: (1) set up the JLA E110s for master/slave operation; (2) switch off the internal crossover on the master JLA; (3) install a PXO5 configured for your CS2.7s or 3.7s; (3) adjust the level on the master sub to taste (or use measurements). (4) use the polarity and phase controls on the master to phase align your system. In this setup, the PXO5s handle everything other than level matching as intended. You'd need an adaptor to connect the XLR line-level PXO5 outputs to the RCA line-level inputs on your master sub. You can skip step 4, but you'd be missing a huge improvement. Note: The 4th-order crossovers in the JLAs are not compatible with the 1st-order crossovers in Thiel speakers. In augment mode, the PXO5's should provide much better integration than anything you can achieve with the JLA internal crossovers. Check out white papers on the sounddoctor website for tons of expert information on how to set up and integrate subs. If you're looking for an active crossover, consider Marchand Electronics as a less expensive, but still audiophile grade, alternative to the JLA CR-1. The XM9 and XM44 series are very reasonably priced, but you have to swap plug-in modules to change the crossover frequency. The XM44 offers a fully balanced option that is not available with the CR-1. The XM66 series is functionally very similar to the CR-1 (no module swapping). If you can tolerate the pro audio appearance, you'll be very happy with the cost savings. I was leaning toward purchasing a fully balanced XM44 until the SI-1 came up for sale on eBay. |
Prof, Thanks for the pricing info. I think your timing is spot on given the not-so-pleasant (yet not surprising) news. I've struggled for years about going down the path of adding some kind of DSP, but I just can't wrap my head around digitizing my analog setup, even if its just a small part of it. Would be interested in hearing your impressions if you decide to take the jump. Cheers, David |
PS, Prof, did you note on EBay that someone was selling the coax driver for the 2.7/3.7 because they had to replace one under warranty and the color of the surround or something had changed. That individual bought an extra so they would match. Of course, if you leave your grills on it won't much matter. |
Prof, 'I had a $999 sniping bid in, set to hit 4 sec before the auction of the SI1 sub integrator ended. I don't like bidding early and bidding prices up. i called and asked Rob about it. He suggested that the px02 and px05, with the correct chips which they're running out of, match the Sub introduction perfectly to where Thiel's start to drop off (around 38 hz for the 2.4 and 2.7 as the woofers are the same). Rob said Jim Thiel built and sold only a few hundred integrators at most, and some have come back for repairs that can't be done. Some failures are obvious as in lights not matching settings and some must be listened for. Since I have the px02 configured by Rob for my 2.4s I decided to pass. If I were trying to match non-Thiels to the smartsub, I'd have taken the chance. another thing to know about the SS1 and 2 is that Thiel has no replacement amplifiers. A year ago they were going to develop a new sub with a compatible amp but that didn't happen. if I had to start from scratch, I might look at REL. Are we going to have to start a Go Fund Me to keep Rob and the service department open? He's only 55 so could provide many of us service as long as we need. Bob |
jut in case someone needs this info thought i would post it. Hi Kent,
I have examined the CS2.7 coax that you returned. The failure mode was a buzz generated by the midrange cone. Upon closer inspection I found one of the joints between the diaphragm and the coil former was broken or loose. This will definitely be covered by your warranty, and you can disregard the memo bill sent. Thank you for your business.
Best regards and Happy Listening!
Rob
Rob
Gillum | Service
Manager |
hi guys, great reading and thanks to all. this is my first time posting on this thread but wanted to add my 2.7 cents so to speak. i have owned every generation of the 2 series since 1986. 2.0, 2.2, 2.4, and now 2.7. Each upgrade was well worth it but i doubt i will go the 3.7 route since a new REL SHO/5 sub seems to have really given me what was missing. i think the biggest change in the speakers was the move from the 2.0 series to the 2.2. that first generation was anemic by comparison. so over 30 years later i still love these speakers and hate what has happened to the company. I have a backup coax as that seems the most vulnerable as i have had to replace two so far. never had issues with the older series. anyone here had issues with these drivers? Thiel and Rob replaced the two bad ones under warranty but i purchased the spare one. Expensive but it beats buying a new speaker which would take a lot of dollars to equal these babies. May even buy another coax. the woofer and the passive drivers have not been an issue. I do have a set of sound Anchors that i used with the 2.0 and 2.2 series if I recall. anyone interested can write me about them if they would like to purchase them. I used Mapleshade platforms under the 2.4's, but with the outriggers on the 2.7's, i use them on the floor directly. my amp is the incredible PS Audio BHK 250. Best amp i have ever used and it will work great with Thiel speakers. thanks again. |
Oh man, I took a look for that Smart Sub on ebay and came across an auction that was literally ending in 20 minutes for a Thiel SmartSub SI 1 Integrator! Those were said to be masterful for blending Thiels and Thiel subs, and rarely come up on the market. My bidding finger got very itchy and I did some quick research. Apparently they were only for use with Thiel subs and I have the JL subs. The SI 1 went for a steal, about $800. Makes me wonder if I should have bought one of those Thiel subs I thought about on audiogon over the years. However, the Thiel subs are too tall to place where they need to go under my projection screen so it would have had to go behind the sofa. Ultimately the two JL subs aligned behind my Thiel speaker are likely the best way to go anyway. |
dhoff01, Thiel spare parts costs, sent to me quite a while ago from Rob: CS3.7 coax - $525 CS3.7 woofer- $400 CS3.7 Passive- $200 The 2.7 speaker parts are, as I remember, between $50 to $100 less per part. Sub integration: I haven't had a chance to do much at all since my work started again. I'd only received a pair of JL Audio e110 subs - the only size that will fight where I need them to go in my room. Though fortunately the 110s are high quality with stellar reviews. I first hooked them up "REL fashion" running speaker wire from the Thiel 2.7 terminals back to the sub high level inputs. Did some mild tweaking, ran the 2.7s full range, dialed in the subs around 40 or 35 Hz. It really changed the sound of the system. Obvious gains in low bass, and the sound became fuller, more dimensional, more precise imaging relationships, and more lush. It also because more rolled off and softer sounding, like my amp had been reduced in power. So it was some gains and some set backs. JL tells me they really recommend against that type of connection and, like many subwoofer aficionados will tell us, the real gain in performance is to be had by crossing over the lower frequencies to the subs, relieving the main speakers for cleaner sound overall. I've read enough reports, reviews and raves about properly integrated subwoofers to think there is something to this and I'm therefore willing to give it a try, despite my previous disdain for subwoofers. So I plan to buy the JL CR-1 crossover which apparently makes dialing in subs a dream. I will also likely try some DSP for the sub signal, running the sub signal through something like an SPeaker Anti Node. This would digitize the low pass signal in order to do room correction. I'm thinking I can handle that idea because it would be in the domain where my ears are far less sensitive. All the upper end goodness would still be the analog signal from my CJ amps/preamp. Will see how it goes, but it's going to be a time consuming and pricey experiment. If all works well, I may end up getting most of what I liked about the bigger 3.7s and more. (I already like some aspects of the 2.7s over the 3.7s even without subs). |
Prof, Just curious what kind of sub you have and the steps you’ve taken so far to integrate. I too had a tough time, and still tweak my settings/position occasionally. Always interested to see the steps others take when setting up their subs. I also saw saw that thread and had the same immediate concerns. Any idea on the approximate costs for the replacement parts? |
FYI: The"more bad news at Thiel" thread panicked me a bit. I am still deciding on which Thiels - 2.7 or 3.7 - to keep and I'll want spare drivers for whichever one (e.g. spare coax and spare woofers/passive). I spoke to Rob G. and as I understood it, the spare parts business is still associated with Thiel at this point. Though he can't say (doesn't know) how this will all turn out, he does still have plenty of spare parts for Thiel legacy speakers and should have them still available for the foreseeable future. I still think I need to speed up my process of deciding so I know which drivers to order. My new attempts to pair the 2.7s with subwoofers have really slowed me down though. It's amazing what an absolute pain in the ass subwoofers are to integrate into my system. (And subs are a PIA generally, if you want to get them right). |
Jafant,dhoff01, Thanks for kind words!I have over 20 acoustic panels that I made for the basement in reflection points.I also made bass traps for the corners.The more I added,the better the sound became!I realized I had to more my system when a gummy piece of rawhide was stuck on my amp!We all have too much in our systems to risk any damage.I love my Doberman but also my system!I have 805’s safely on a entertainment stand for home theater,upstairs now with my 1.6’s as rears.The 1.6’s aren’t perfect so I don’t worry about them too much-they sound great though!1.6’s are a great speaker!I had my system before the dog,but she’s part of the family now.Wife and kids are happy,I’m getting there slowly! |
Dhoff01, Glad to hear your enjoying your Les Pauls,as I am mine!Like I posted on your system page,my setup with my Les Pauls is far from perfect!I had to move them in my weight room in the basement,away from my Doberman,to avoid any problems!I am getting enjoyable sound down there,despite all the concrete and steel.Most audiophiles would burn me at the stake for my setup now,but my equipment is safe and I’m using it more than ever!I also am using a sub with mine and it blends very well.I used to think using a sub was cheating,but now can’t live without it! Homemade sound panels really made a difference with all the reflection points I have.My basement sounds more studio-like now,if you can believe that? |
A few of my musical selections on CD and SACD; The Moody Blues- Days of future Passed The Beach Boys- Pet Sounds The Beatles- Sgt. Pepper The Doors - S/T The Jimi Hendrix Experience - Are you Experienced? (The) Cream - Disraeli Gears Black Sabbath - S/T Pink Floyd - DSOTM Van Halen - S/T Tears For Fears - Songs from the big Chair Jamie Cullum - Twentysomething (Reference/Demo Disc) Notice the first (3) titles are groundbreaking concept albums (in their own right) of the rock/pop era. Happy Listening! |
prof... I believe that I was running my first pair of 3.5's with a Cayin integrated that put out somewhere around 30 watts in triode believe it or not. As you've found yourself, running a little hotter volume wise really lets this brand sing but, and a big but, I tend to listen at levels that most people would describe as "low", even though I turn it up until it sounds "right." Slipping in a pair of Goertz alpha core veracity cables did manage to effect a somewhat better definition at my level, but to my ears the 3.6's just aren't providing something that the 3.5's did, and that appears to be a lessening of the highs? Just my ears saying that - if ears could talk. Since I sold off my second Pass Labs X150.5 it might be unfair to compare the two in hindsight, especially since I found Pass/Thiel to be the best setup I've had. (I should hasten to add that I've three pairs of 3.5's...) The Pass was mated to a BAT VK3i preamp which was also excellent, but I do think that Pass mates equally well, if not better, with an Audio Research pre. But then again, I've decided that separates drove me to distraction, that I was more concerned with the equipment than I was with the music. The BAT integrated I now own, a VK300xse, has more than enough juice I need for these and any other speakers I may wind up getting - hopefully yet another pair of Thiel. |
oblgny, I hope some day you get a chance to try the 3.7s in your system. Apparently Jim was deliberately going for a higher efficiency than previous Thiels (Stereophile measure it just under 91.dB). The impedance was low, but as I've said many times on this thread, the Thiels have been amazingly happy being driven by my CJ amps, and even my Eico 14W side. And the 2.7s despite being 87 dB efficient are dynamic and punchy as hell on the CJ amps. My listening levels are conservative as well. But I have to say my listening levels have crept up these days because the Thiels are so smooth and fun to listen to, and can sound so "live." |
dhoff01... Ya' know, describing the difference between the 3.5 and 3.6 models is something that I thought would be less than it really is, but the fact of the matter is that these are VERY different speakers. And far more different than moving "up" as I did from 2.0, 2.2, and 2.3 to the 3.5's. In those earlier examples the differences merely improved on everything that endeared Thiel to me from the get-go, accuracy, colorlessness, and most specifically, bass reproduction that felt like, sounded like bass without exaggeration. I keep saying that I'm not a "bass" fiend, finding most speakers reproduction of it artificial and cartoonish - for lack of a better term. I'm also a pretty big fan of Magnepan, so my ears do favor midrange and highs to begin with. I used a Pass Labs X150.5/BAT tubed pre setup for my 3.5's, and I am currently - no pun intended - using a BAT integrated. Either setup provided 150 watts into 8 ohms, 300 into 4 ohm loads which either Thiel is rated. To my ears the 3.6's just don't pressurize the room the way the 3.5's did. I'm also finding that the highs on the 3.6's seem diminished - odd considering that some people describe Thiels as "too bright." I think that the 3.6's do require a more significant amount of power to truly shine. At levels louder than I normally listen at they do begin to strut their proverbial stuff. But, alas, my listening evil is very conservative and I believe the 3.5's just presented everything better at lower volumes than the 3.6's are wont to - again, my humble opinion. Thiel improves ANY setup one may have. I've tossed a bevy of amps at them, Pass Labs, Threshold, Primare, Audio Research, Conrad Johnson, McIntosh...this site has drained my bank account a few times in the last 4 years. I just put my 3.6's up for sale here on the site. Right now I'm downsizing, returning to tubes, looking at more efficient Thiels - if that's possible. |
I’m freaking 60, very soon to turn 61, and since becoming a member on this lunatic site around 4 years ago I’ve burned through quite a few dollars on everything in the most futile of pursuits - perfection. Obviously my chronological advance has not yet graced me with wisdom. I doubt it ever will, perhaps when I cease advancing I may find it. Anyway - as close to a reasonable facsimile of perfection as one may get in this hobby is Thiel. Speakers HAVE to cost more than these to be better - and from my limited “high end” auditions over the last few years the only other manufacturer that comes even close is Magnepan. I’m a fan of both. I simply can’t find sonic or financial reasons sufficient to consider blowing a few thousand bucks on other brands that might do one or even a couple of things “better”, especially when none in my $$ wheelhouse do everything as well as Thiel does. IMHO Pass Labs and Thiel represent amazing sonics. I’m still trying to get my 3.6’s to shine as my 3.5’s did. I don’t think I’ll be getting there soon. I may be selling my 3.6’s to find another pair of 3.5’s. Something about those suckers that connects with me where the 3.6’s do not. To each his own. As long as it’s Thiel! |
65 While I've been into vinyl for 40 years , cassettes before that , I've only been " at it " seriously for the last 10 . Learned a lot from a friend nkonor but never really applied it until recently , the kids are grown ( still costing me with education expenses ) and I have reached an income level that I can spend on my hobby. Wish I started a few years earlier , vinyl has gone up in price, but at the same time equipment has improved by leaps and bounds. For Black Friday I purchased acoustic panels from Acoustimac to replace my homemade piecemeal setup , waiting for delivery ! |
Unsound, No need to apologize! We just have some differing opinions, that’s all. I don’t agree that 50 watts at 8 ohms (or 200 watts at 2 ohms) "really isn’t much at all." Your 3.6 speakers have a sensitivity rating of 86dbs. My 3.7s are rated at 90dbs. I’m sure you would agree that’s not an insignificant difference. So yes, maybe for you, in your room with your speakers and at your listening levels, 50 watts may be inadequate. My Accuphase has a digital meter, so I’m able to track just how many watts it’s peaking at depending on volume. Last time I checked, I was pushing over 105 dbs while keeping it under 100 watts and seated approximately 10 feet from my speakers. The 3.7s have been tested to drop under 3 ohms, so I know my Accuphase had much more to give. I don’t know what level you like to listen to, but that’s the equivalent sound to a jackhammer, which is enough to require earplugs for most sane people. In other words, in many ways we’re comparing apples to oranges, which may be why we have such different opinions. I too have been at this for a few decades, and over that time I’ve come to the conclusion that, in my opinion, there’s too much reliance on wattage when determining whether an amp is sufficient enough. It’s certainly a relevant factor, but it isn’t always the most important one. I know you’re not trying to tell or convince me otherwise. But there are a lot of readers on this sight who are looking for information, and just as your thoughts give great insight, I think there are valid counter opinions to the points you make. My intent was only to share some of them, just as you are. And I definitely agree we’re both likely to be more on the same page than we are not. Just different journeys, I suppose. |
Hi David, please accept my apologies if I wasn't clear in my previous post. As for the Pass Lab users not using Pass Labs X amps instead of Pass Labs XA amps, every Thiel user I know that asked for guidance directly from Pass Labs has reported that Pass Labs has suggested that the X's would better serve Thiel's, with X250 and X350 with their various "." derivations most commonly recommended. Yes, there are truly pure Class A amps that can double down while maintaining Class A all the while (the early Mark Levinson ML2 w/ 25 Watts output certainly jumps to mind). I was merely trying to make a generalized comment to a larger audience that might mistakenly believe that all amps that tout Class A, don't necessarily do so all the time. If I recall correctly the Aragon mono's dropped all Class A output below 8 Ohms despite being touted as pure Class A. I remember another manufacturer of a very highly regarded amp admitted when pressed that despite claims to the contrary, that his amps weren't really Class A and argued that it made no difference except in the market place perception. The current Pass Labs XA's aren't really pure Class A, as they provide extra Class AB Watts when power demands require it. To their their credit they only advertise the true Class A output, but unfortunately some leave thinking that these (advertised) relatively low output amps prove that extra power isn't necessary and/or that Class A is more powerful than Class AB. Doubling the minimum recommended power is not my axiom. I've been at this for a few decades and it existed long before I became involved. Which is why I chose to use it previously. It is merely a long used generally accepted starting guide. I do believe that time has been kind to this guide, and though one might find less or more power might be required, and as difficult as it is find any specific guide I've found this one to be especially helpful as a general starting point. Heck, I can remember a time when 200 Watts was a broad brushed minimum recommendation for a serious system. That I think is an over simplification. As for an amp being able to handle a 2 Ohm load, keep in mind this is more of a prerequisite with some Thiel's (especially at lower power outputs) if one cares a whit for frequency and amplitude linearity. Despite what might appear to be technically true, the 200 Watts that your Accuphase puts out at 2 Ohms is really not so different than 50 Watts into 8 Ohms. Which really isn't all that much. Now in a smaller rooms playing music without much in the way of dynamic contrast such as much small choral works or chamber music 50 Watts might be more than enough, but for realistic symphonic music in larger rooms it might be lacking. There's a reason Jim Thiel allowed his loudspeakers to handle such big power inputs, Many other speaker manufactures discourage such power, as their speakers can't handle it. Sure one can get sounds out of most any Thiel with even the most low budget low powered amplifiers, but if one wants all that Thiel's are capable of, then more high quality Watts are needed. The halving of Class A output with impedance drops isn't really all that much of a problem. I just pointed it out because many attribute the sound of some amps due to their Class A output, when if fact it might be due to something else. Most of the time our speakers really don't require that much power. It's really only when things get loud do the speakers drink up copious Watts. But then the demands really ramp up. The thing is that as things get loud our ears aren't as sensitive to all the delicacies', that is until real distortions start to rear their ugliness. Personally I'd rather deal with an adequately powered Class AB amplifiers cross-over distortion than even the impending clipping of an underpowered Class A amp. Especially with solid state amplification. That is not to say I'm suggesting tubes with Thiel's, I don't. Though some do. I do think we're really much more in agreement than not. I was not specifically trying to tell you what to do, or what to use, but rather to offer a more generalized response to a larger audience for your rather good question. I used to often say that we all hear differently, but I now realize that it's probably more correct to say we all listen differently. I don't like to argue with success; if your happy, enjoy! |
Unsound, I've ready many of your insightful posts on this thread, and while I agree with much of what you say, there are some assumptions that I do take some issue with. First, I never meant to imply that others should use Class A. I merely was making an observation that I was surprised I was the only one. Yes, Class A amps are expensive, and yes, they run very hot. That I get. But not everyone on this thread has those issues. In fact, many here have touted Pass Labs, for example, but none seem to mention their XA amps. I found that curious, that's all. Second, let's be clear about the Accuphase Class A amps. They are pure class A, and they do not halve when the impedance drops. They double down, all the way to 2 ohms (as I said in my post, mine goes to 200 watts at 2 ohms). I certainly agree those amps that are Class A A/B that halve as you suggest would be problematic with most Thiels. Thankfully my amp is not one of them. Lastly, I really don't understand your axiom that one should always double the minimum amount of recommended wattage. One could equally suggest that the 100 minimum watt requirement is actually a conservative rating intended to ensure that those with lesser quality amps have enough power, Indeed, in my opinion, quality is truly the key here (which is also exactly what Jim Thiel said in his comments on the 3.7s). Saying you need a minimum of 200 watts when your room size, listening position and personal volume levels say otherwise really doesn't make much sense to me. I'm not trying to be argumentative here. I just think a quality amp that can handle a 2 ohm load in a medium size room does not need to approach the numbers that you suggest above. Anyway, that's just my opinion. Bottom line, it's what your own two ears are happy with. As long as we're all enjoying the process and the music, that's all that matters. Cheers, David |
Unsound and fellow Thiel owners Since you've read all the posts your probably dizzy from all the different subjects owners have brought up and don't remember all the recommendations and opinions , but since you asked about Cowboy Junkies Whites Off Earth Now & Trinity Sessions David Crosby If I Could Only Remember My Name Chicago C.T.A Jimi Hendrix Electric LadyLand Duke Ellington HiFi Ellington Uptown Rob |
unsound, Excellent synopsis! I did not realize the class A bias would halve with impedance drop! We might want to think about amplifier distortion doubling as impedance halves also. David - Dave Matthews - nearly anything Beach boys - Pet Sounds Cake - Comfort Eagle Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young - 4 way Street The Doors - The Doors - and - Morrison Hotel |
David, welcome! In answer to your question as to why more Thiel users don't use pure Class A amplification: cost. And heat. To my ears, though typically advantageous, Class A is not the only criterion of the many upon which an amplifier's sound is determined. Jim Thiel's power recommendations were based upon standard solid state 8 Ohm ratings (with a level of quality expected), where it could be assumed that the power doubled down as impedance halved, not the impedance load of the specific speaker. Let's take your 3.7's https://www.stereophile.com/content/thiel-cs37-loudspeaker-specifications for example: with power recommendations given as 100 - 600 Watts per channel. Of course actual power needs will vary with rooms and desired volume levels amongst other things. But, for the sake of this post, let's fall on the old audiophile axiom that one should first consider starting with double the minimum power recommendation, which in the case of the 3.7's would be 200 Watts per channel. 200 Watts per channel of pure Class A amplification comes with some expense. Many high quality amps runs their bias towards Class A before sliding into Class AB. For example I run my 3.5's with their recommend power of 50 Watts minimum 250 Watts maximum (with hints of 300 Watts max). My Threshold amplifier is rated at 250 Watts (8 Ohm) per channel. The first 20% (50 Watts) biased towards Class A, then sliding into Class AB. Now into my 3.5's 4 Ohm minimum impedance; as the impedance is halved, the power doubles to 500 Watts per channel, but the Class A bias output is halved to 25 Watts per channel. This not only true for some Class AB amps. Some amps that claim pure Class A output really only do so in their standard 8 Ohm rating, but as the impedance halves and the power levels double; their Class A outputs halve as well, with the increased power correspondingly sliding into Class AB. https://www.stereophile.com/content/threshold-stasis-sa12e-power-amplifier-page-2 Of course some amps that tout pure Class A output, really don't. https://www.stereophile.com/content/krell-ksa-250-power-amplifier-when-class-class We know that power consumption is not linear but rather exponential, and musical content can demand many, many times it's nominal power requirements. I haven't measured the bias output, but I suspect that much of the time my amp is behaving towards Class A bias. But now with the capability to cruise at 500 Watts per channel all day long (with short term headroom doubling that to 1000 Watts per channel). Now some might suggest that some of these power recommendations into actual impedances are outrageously high. To those may I remind them that with Thiel's and most typical speakers for that matter, that as impedances drop and power output increases that speaker sensitivity decreases correspondingly. So for general comparisons one might see the wisdom of the standard 8 Ohm ratings. Or not? Would I prefer more Class A output? Probably, double that would be dandy. All 500 Watts per channel into 4 Ohms Class A? Sure! But, for my money I'd probably move up the line in speakers first, and settle on less Class A output with Thiel CS 5i's. Thiel's weren't made as cost no object super premium products, though in their time the CS 5's were knocking on the door. Given the cost of pure Class A with enough power to drive most Thiel's, some of which approach 2 Ohms (and some with challenging phase angles), I think many might find the money might be better off spent elsewhere. For example with the 3.7's, and given enough room, I can easily see someone spending the money on Thiel's own subwoofers before committing the funds towards up to 600 Watts of pure Class A amplification (if you could find it). As a general guide (and with adequate funds available), perhaps a reasonable starting point might be amplification meeting the minimum power recommendation with Class A and the maximum into power recommendation sliding into Class AB. If one could afford to provide the maximum power recommendation all in pure Class A output into actual minimum impedance load, perhaps all the better. But be prepared to pay! |
David, I have tried a class A Krell 402 paired with an ARC Ref5 tubed preamp and my Thiel CS3.6s, but preferred my current ARC Ref5SE - Ref 150 combination. It was probably a synergy problem with preamp-amp, but instead of trying a different preamp, I went to a better tubed amp. Here are a few albums that get regular play on my main system due to quality music and recording, IMO: Beck - Morning Phase Phish - Fuego Eagles - Long Road Out Of Eden Shelby Lynne - I Am Shelby Lynne Wilco - The Whole Love Suzanne Vega - Nine Objects of Desire Robert Plant and Alison Krauss - Raising Sand Rickie Lee Jones - Traffic From Paradise SOME QUALITY DEEPER CUTS: The Wailin' Jennys - 40 Days Tift Merritt - Bramble Rose The Greencards - Fascination Kim Richey - Rise |