Sound quality it's gonna take more than one or at least a single 6 foot column. 3 1000.00 or 4 750.00 subs if you really want to THUMP! Just make sure you can decouple the subs without added work to fix the speaker. I see you picked a sub that's NOT firing down.. That makes a big difference weather you feel it through the house (butt and feet) or feel it in your chest. Servo subs a Whole Different Story.. Regards |
I'd go with the Power Sound Audio TV2112, and make it two of them. As a pair that's exceeding your budget of $3k, but otherwise I'd choose a pair of the smaller EV1812 model, and if that's still too expensive a pair of TV1512. If you insist on a single sub (I'd go with two smaller vs. one big) the TV2112 is the one to go for. https://www.powersoundaudio.com/products/TV2112 https://www.powersoundaudio.com/products/ev1812 https://www.powersoundaudio.com/products/TV1512 Power Sound Audio subs use extremely rugged, high quality and efficient pro drivers in combination with IcePower amps, both more desirable and reliable than SVS, JL Audio or similar offerings. |
I had an F113 with A.R.O. which automatically adjusted one frequency peak in my home for a short time. It's output quality and loudness was very close to my Velodyne DD-18. I believe the JL version 2 with D.A.R.O. automatically addresses eighteen frequency peaks. Unfortunately this function is manufacturer determined and is auto only. The driver and cabinet are very powerful and are easily commensurate with its price. Without any first hand experience with the SVS, looking at the SVS manual it seems to offer a wider range of remotely automatic and manual optimization adjustments. It also offers three customizable preset equalization settings. Along with its remote volume adjustment the presets make the SVS subwoofer system interactive on the fly. Not a fan of ported subs, think two smaller units. Have fun. |
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i use 3 Funk Audio 18.0 subwoofers in my Home Theater room. these are big boy subwoofers, and have outstanding performance. the Funk 18.0E is right at $3k and essentially the same subwoofer. https://www.funkaudio.ca/store/p13/Funk_Audio_-_18.0E.html a step up or two over the two listed. hand made including the drivers. the extension, articulation, and build quality is on another level. yes, a little more money, and you do have to get in line for delivery. this is the good stuff. Nathan Funk was a pleasure to deal with. highly recommended. https://www.funkaudio.ca/store/p1/Funk_Audio_-_18.0.html
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Wow Mr mikelavigne. They make some BIG subs. Nice veneers too. Nice speakers too. jeez. Some were 3 time or more the height of a beagle dog. That is close to 15" x 3. 45" tall or more. I like it.. I liked the dog too, my buddy beagle was named Hoop! 17 years me and that dog hung out.. He went to heaven. Regards
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The SVS PB16 Ultra and Fathom F113 (both of which I owned) don't deliver much slam at all. If you are wanting to feel some slam on bass heavy music you will have to most likely up your budget. Remember one mans insanity is another mans moderation. I have owned over 14 different subs in the last 4 years. The only ones that deliver the sort of thing that you are describing is when I had 2 JTR RS2 Captivators. Those literally damaged a ton of stuff in my house. If you need help with output questions I have a huge databass of all third party tested sub measurements. I can help you there. A pro audio sub may do what you want, they don't go much below 30hz but they punch very hard in the music "realm" of bass. Those can hit 135db for probably in your price range. That would give you chest thump. |
How big is your room? What gear are you currently using? How loud are you looking to get? I also like bass heavy music. IME I found multiple subs to be much better than a single sub. I have two SVS SB4000’s in my system along with two other brands. The SVS are my workhorse subs. They take everything I throw at them with ease. I routinely pressurize my room in the range of 95 to 100 db and once in a great while I will fall off the deep end and pressurize to about 112 db. I am not a fan of ported subs or automatic room correction, though in fairness I do not have a lot of experience with auto correction. I am a big fan of using some type of crossover in the integration. |
@gregfaunce -- "The SVS PB16 Ultra and Fathom F113 (both of which I owned) don’t deliver much slam at all. If you are wanting to feel some slam on bass heavy music you will have to most likely up your budget. Remember one mans insanity is another mans moderation. I have owned over 14 different subs in the last 4 years. The only ones that deliver the sort of thing that you are describing is when I had 2 JTR RS2 Captivators. Those literally damaged a ton of stuff in my house. If you need help with output questions I have a huge databass of all third party tested sub measurements. I can help you there. A pro audio sub may do what you want, they don’t go much below 30hz but they punch very hard in the music "realm" of bass. Those can hit 135db for probably in your price range. That would give you chest thump." Good input. Forgot to mention JTR is my previous post - definitely a good option. It’s a shame the LFU version of the Orbit Shifter front loaded horn is no longer in their repertoire, it seems, and the pro version with its just below 40Hz tune misses the LF-beat with movies in particular. Mr. Ricci’s line of DIY subs over at databass (if that’s what you’re referring to), all of them basically high order band pass iterations, are true monsters - just great subs delivering high output, clean and effortless bass. True "audiophile" bass if ever there was any. Some of them have variable tune, and even the lower tune options (i.e.: 15-20Hz) shouldn’t see port noise issues in home environments at all but war volume. The problem with lower tuned, low efficiency subs - or just low eff. subs in general - very often is lack of midbass presence or "slam" in this region. It’s not simply an issue of frequency response, nor that infrasonics "divert" the energy or focus away from the midbass. "The Funk Audio 18 is not really a high output subwoofer. It is a small enclosure 18" sealed sub. It’s performance numbers are online and it is really nothing special. It is a good looking sub, but top performer it is not (at least in output)." Agreed. Looks and exclusivity, both of which the Funk’s ooze (though I’m sure they’re very good subs), are "audiophile" traits, remember. In my book Funk Audio subs are too expensive in relation to output, but many don’t value high output capability here as anything other than that, when in reality prodigious headroom through efficiency and very large displacement area are key factors in providing for an effortless, smooth and clean bass with slam as well. |
@fiesta75 -- "Just a question; Isn’t SPL (output) related to air movement? With a minimum of 3 inches of cone travel and very large surface area, they move a lot of air. Am I missing something?🙃" That kind of cone travel isn’t desirable if distortion is to be kept low, which is the whole point in having more displacement area (and high eff.). If that’s what you have, in addition to high efficiency (which translates into very large boxes), and you’re firing off with 3" of excursion in a home environment, you’re after some serious-level single digit infrasonics to make them worthwhile. Displacement can also be amped up via the classical front loaded horns acting as a force multiplier, and so the horn itself is doing the heavy lifting - quite smart. Woofers in appropriate tapped horn pairings have excursion minima at the tune (which is not the case with the FLH where excursion minima sits above the tune, since the driver hidden inside is placed in a sealed chamber), and this makes it even more obvious how the enclosure relieves the driver; its cone movement may be barely visible, but the bass is nonetheless viscerally felt throughout and immersing the whole listening space quite forcefully (imagine the output with the driver moving a cm or two..). That translates into very low distortion and a very effortless reproduction, and the bass presentation here is also differentiated in how the cone travel couples to the air via the horn. At the very opposite end of the scale, efficiency-wise, is the sealed enclosure with a direct radiating driver. |
