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Sell your $$$ cables and conditioners... affordable LITHIUM is here!

I wanted to give you a frame of reference as to where I'm coming from and most importantly a first impression after 24hrs!
I've been an addict since my first system of KEF Concord speakers, Crimson Electric amps and an Ariston turntable back in college in '81. Since then I've been down the entire Linn system with Active Kabers, Full Meridian active system with DSP5200's as well as some burly NZ Perraux mono blocks with Sonus Faber when I lived in NZ. Since moving to the US in 2001 I've been through years of altercations between solid state camps from Bel Canto, Levinson stereo 336 to mono 436's, 532H and Mac 452 to speakers from B&W 802N and D2 to Wilson Sophia 2's, Sonus Faber Amati Homage and Revel Studio 2's. I've tried conditioners from Transparent, AQ Niagra, Isotek and others and every time come back to a decent cable straight from the wall.
Three years ago I took the plunge and went down the Devialet rabbit hole, streaming direct from a MacBook Air with ROON my Devialet D200 (soon to become a D400) drives my Focal Utopia Diablos via Analysis Plus Solo Crystal 8 speaker cables (and that's another whole can of worms with enormous cable differences), a JL Audio Fathom F110 (also about to be doubled up) rounds it out. My livening room is about 22x25 with 10ft ceilings and partially treated as best I can accommodate. 
Suffice to say, I've been around the block with hifi, listened to way more than my fair share at dealers and friends with diverse systems and currently run one of the most reveling systems I've ever heard. Sure, there's not that thick syrupy warmth the tube guys will clammer for, but then I'm hearing so much further into not just tonality but intent within the playing. 

If you read the review in Enjoy the Music from Tom Lyle, you'd see he equates the GZ Yeti to the $30k Stromtank. His review was the $400 Yeti 400. The Yeti 1000 was $1099, the 3kW Yeti 3000 is $2999 and will power almost anything. So, like Tom I took the plunge and bought a Yeti 1000 figuring it'd have plenty of 'headroom' for my meagre 600w consumption. (Though I have since plugged my JL Audio Fathom in too)

After playing the "FedEx f'ed up" again game, I finally went to their depot and picked up my new toy myself. After a handful of songs to establish a baseline for the evening, I simply plugged the Yeti 1000 in, reconnected the Devialet and sat back... My girlfriend was first to break the silence and then immediately regretted it as I couldn't help myself interrupting her for the next half hour of gushing over what a profound difference it was making.
H-U-G-E. Truly component level and an absolute game changer. 

I was immediately texting my good friend with his PS Audio Directstream, Gryphon Diablo, Audio Physic Avantera III all powered by the latest Synergistic Research Powercell 12SE and Gallileo power cord with AQ Hurricane to each component - SELL- SELL- SELL it all, get a Goal Zero! 

We stayed up until 2am listening, flipped it back for a handful of now unlistenable tracks and then back again to Yeti 1000 happiness. In over six hours of powering my Devialet and Fathom at 90+db levels it'd dropped to a laughable 98%. I'm guessing that means it'd run off the grid for 300hrs or more? That's probably a several months of listening for most people. Who even cares, it simply sounds spectacular and the single biggest improvement I've ever heard from anything less than a major amp or speaker upgrade. 

I know my system is fairly frugal and green running, my buddy Matts, Gryphon would probably need the 3000W Yeti as his amp pulls 1900W at full song and his full stack of components albeit front end certainly add a few hundred more.   He's headed down to me in a couple of week with a stack of exotic power cables and conditioners  to try and I can't wait to share my results - I'm guessing he'll want to steal it away for his own demo right after. I would imagine he'd even get away with the Yeti 1000, so long as he doesn't run it too hard?
leeagc
stephendunn's avatar
stephendunn
151 posts
 
ayrefan

Thanks for your insightful analysis.  From what you say about the difference in SQ between the Yeti 400 and the1400, one might deduce that the greater "headroom" between the load and maximum output yields better results--beyond just getting the fan to remain silent for longer.  I'm interested to see once I get my 1400 on board.

Also interesting to consider there might be a burn in time for these devices.  Why not?  Everything else I've used in my system has improved after burn in.

It also will be interesting to test whether the Yeti benefits from isolation footers.  I see you use Kones.  Have you tried those under the 1400?  My SR power conditioner benefits from Stillpoints, so I'll A/B those on the 1400 down the road. 

One issue that has been raised but not really resolved--and it may be system dependent--is whether to use your power conditioner with the Yeti or not.  I have not done extensive listening, but my initial impression is that it sounds better without my power conditioner, even though I've been using a run of the mill power strip instead.  Would be interested to know what your ears tell you about this issue.  The slight softening of transients and warmer tone you allude to might be related to using the PC.

Lots to learn.


glennewdick's avatar
glennewdick
1,666 posts
 

Anyone know what the quality of AC coming out of the Yeti is like?


all good to have a power generator but if its as dirty as the wall why bother?

ayrefan
8 posts
 
Stephendunn,

First off I should mention that despite being a Brit, I live in Melbourne Australia and all my Ayre gear was configured at the factory to run on 240v / 50-60hz.  I moved to Australia about 5 years ago from Denver Colorado which is where I met Charley Hansen.  My Ayre components were shipped to Melbourne.  Therefore my Yeti 1400 puts out 230v / 50hz which seems to still work fine for the Ayre QX-5 20 and AX-5 20.

So today with a few more hours running time on the Yeti 1400 I have compared running: 
1. the QX-5 directly from the Yeti via Ayre PC (though I had to use a US to Aus plug adapter as PC has US plug)
2. QX-5 and AX-5 powered from the L-5xe connected to the Yeti 1400
3. QX-5 and AX-5 powered from the L-5xe connected to the AC outlet.  

Clear winner was option 2 ie powering everything with the Yeti 1400 via the L-5xe.  Significantly bigger soundstage in all dimensions with better spatial separation of instruments / vocals compared to wall AC power and still ahead of just powering the QX-5 (option 1) where soundstage was not quite as big or well defined.   Bass impact speed and depth are now just as good using Yeti option 2 as when using the AC outlet.  Quieter elements in some tracks are now also more clearly defined in terms of their resolution and within soundstage.  

So best SQ overall with Yeti 1400 connected to Ayre L-5xe power conditioner.  

I used the Yeti 1400 last night for 4 hrs to power my HT system (Oppo 203, Marantz AV8802A and three Exposure 3010S2 monoblocks plus AX-5 to combine for 5.1 system with KEF R series surrounds plus Blades. HSU VTF15 Sub powered separately from wall outlet.  

Turned out I got the best sound when just powering the Marantz with all else on wall AC power.  However most of the HT system is plugged into an Isotek Polaris power strip and not the Ayre L-5xe which likely accounts for this result (Ayre L-5xe far better at isolating components outputs).

So, I agree with your idea that the greater headroom between the load and maximum output provided by the Yeti 1400 over the 400 allows the 1400 to more rapidly respond to system load demands, certainly for my relatively low to mid-range power demands (150 to 170W).  Whether the fact that my system runs on 230V is making a difference compared to US 120V / 60hz, I leave for discussion by experts on the forum.  

I have not tried placing the Yeti 1400 on isolation footers but well worth testing.  The way I have my Quadraspire racks configured at the moment there is not enough vertical space to insert Nordost sort kones under the L-5xe.  I tried using some Isoacoustics Orea Indigos under the L-5xe but they just killed the richness of harmonics / musicality that using myrtle blocks provides. Charley Hansen insisted the L-5xe be placed on myrtle blocks and so far they are the best.  I’m not sure he would approve of the Nordost BC sort kones I have under the QX-5 and AX-5 which made the SQ slightly brighter but provided a big jump in soundstage which is a forte of the KEF Blade 2s.  While we are on the subject of isolators, adding Isoacoustics Gaia 1 footers to the Blade 2s also made a significant improvement in staging and clarity.
ayrefan
8 posts
 
Glennwdick,

A good question I like to know the answer to despite having already bought GZ gear.
stephendunn's avatar
stephendunn
151 posts
 
One last quick update before my Yeti 400 goes back (because of the lithium battery GZ has to send a special return box). 
I tried the 400 powering just my ZOTL Ultralinear amp--all front end components back to the SR power conditioner.  I noticed a slight loss of dynamics and softening of transients (that aryefan also alluded to).  The amp drew 120 watts at rest and 140-145 during peaks.  We'll see what happens with the 1400.
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