Review: Dunlavy Audio Labs SC-IVa


Category: Speakers

When I decided seven years ago to upgrade my audio system, I started by finding a speaker I loved. I searched for almost a year listening to every speaker available in the Minneapolis area. I found Magnepan and MartinLogan to be stunning but too dry and fatiguing for my taste. The midrange was not as deep and rich as I was looking for. Wilson had great sound but beyond the budget I was hoping to stay in. B&W sounded thick and boomy to me and Meridian was electronic and artificial. Thiel, Audio Physics and Dunlavy became the finalists. Being a late ‘60s early ‘70s guy, I came from Marantz and MaIntosh electronics and JBL and Altec Lansing speakers. The size and depth of the sound of Dunlavy along with the exceptional midrange were the final factors in my choosing Dunlavy IV as the speaker I wanted. The problem was I could only afford the Dunlavy III, exceptional midrange but not the ultimate bottom end of the IV.
It was about two years after buying the III's that I had the opportunity to upgrade to the IV's. It turned out that over those two years Dunlavy had improved the IV's and had a new model, IVa. They amazed me to find the IVa was even richer and deeper than the old IV model. The Dunlavy IVa speaker consists of two 10" woofers, two 5" mids and one 1" composite textile dome tweeter. Frequency response is 25Hz to 20 kHz, and Sensitivity is 91 dB with an Impedance of 5 ohms. Size is 72" high, 15" deep and 12" wide with a weigh of 190 lbs. each. $8495/pr
I believe Dunlavy speakers have no rivals within their price category. John Dunlavy is obsessed with designing the most accurate reproductions of sound. To meet this stringent standard Dunlavy has built one of the worlds best-equipped laboratories in order to test his designs. This has lead to some very harsh discussions between John Atkinson of Stereophile and John Dunlavy. It seems that JA does not like being out engineered by one of the great loudspeaker designers and the result was punishing JD by putting the once Stereophile "product of the year" Class A component into their B class after Dunlavy improved the speaker to JA's recommendation. Despite the politics of Stereophile Magazine, this speaker will hold its own with speakers two and three times its cost.
The highs are clear, grain less and extremely extended. JA spoke of them appearing a bit forward but I have never felt that was the case with this speaker, and can hardly believe a comment like that when compared with some of Stereophiles favorites MartinLogan and Meridian. Comments like these only strengthen my lack of trust for this Magazine. The midrange on all Dunlavy speakers is amazingly magical. I have not tried any other speaker that is as pure and life like with the female voice than Dunlavy. They display all the color and texture of the midrange with a crispness and transparency. Bass has long been the contention point of the IV series. The fact that they rate them at 25Hz meaning that it cuts off one organ pedal is hardly an issue for me. On the double bass, even the lowest note is crisply defined with no bloating or smear. The famous subway as heard on Water Lilly Acoustics "Natures Realm" with the Philadelphia Orchestra is deep under my floor forward and to the right. On Cowboy Junkies "Trinity Sessions" the foot pounding on the stage is as if he were in my livingroom pounding on my floor. I have no lack for bass from my speakers, in fact any more might be too much. Sound stage is wide and very deep. Excellent transient speeds, superb impact yet with an effortless smoothness. I truly believe these are the best speakers I can afford and is very much at home in my system. They have never left me lacking or longing for something better. That says a lot for a guy who is always looking for more, but never from my speakers. These are simply great speakers, and their service is exceptional as I found out with my III's, I twice had drivers replaced although it turned out the speakers had nothing to do with the problems I was having.


Associated gear
Sony SCD-1 SACD player
Placette active pre-amp
Plinius SA-102 amps
Nordost Valhalla speaker cable
Nordost Valhalla and NBS Statement interconnects
NBS Statement power cords
Hydra power conditioner

Similar products
Thiel CS7 series
Audio Physic Virgo
Wilson Watt/puppy
128x128jadem6
I seem to remember a test done with a pair of John Dunlavy's speakers where a professor of music was placed in front of the speakers and guitarist was brought in. The professor couldn't tell when the recording stopped and the actual guitarist started playing. That sure doesn't sound like "timbral problems" to me. Again, Any Professional Review will attest to the timbral accuracy of Dunlavy speakers. Im trying to be civil here, but I find Dave's comments just laughable. "Grainy Crossovers?" Ha, thats a good one. Thats almost in the same league with "Honky Midrange Coloration". If you hear grain, you are hearing upstream components my friend. And please keep this a review on Dunlavy's, not B&W's.
Like I said before, I loved my Dunlavy's for almost 4 years with the best ref stuff from ARC, Levinson, BAT etc... I think my upstream was pretty good!! I still miss the scale and weight of their presentation. After hearing my puppy 6's and Totems for example you realize the coloration factor. All in all a great speaker however.
If you change the sand cast 10 cent resistors for non inductive type sold under the North Creek Music branded name or better yet a resistor bridge made of multiple Vishay metal film type's you will hear a world of detail released from a black grainless backround.. Your first exposure may bring tears to your eyes.The same improvement can be performed in many esoteric high priced speakers. I have a parked pair of much experimented on and highly modified SC4's.. I was told by a couple of speaker designers swapping resistors would make no difference..I hear them to be mistaken..Tom
I think ive discussed this with you briefly once before audiotweak. I have recently had to sell my 4a's and actually have a pair of Athena's on the way. I might be willing to try something like this if its not too involved and easily reversible. With my associated gear, the detail is great and although the sound is forward, it is not fatiguing in the least. There have been times however when I thought it would be possible to hear deeper into the music. For instance, on a particular recording, I could hear an instrument doing something if I had my ear up to the speaker but from my listening spot I couldn't quite make it out. I concluded that it was probably the room. Perhaps a better component in the crossover could have made a difference. Does this describe your experience?
Yes we did talk about crossover upgrades by changing parts..and I also remember us speaking about the angled baffles that I used atop my SC4's to reduce bass cancelation caused by dissimilar distance between upper and lower woofers in relation to floor loading and ceiling loading..You should not have this variance in bass loading in the Athena.Never having heard the Athenas but familiar with the rest of the Dunlavy line there probably is a family history of crossover components.Tom
Hi Tom, do you have a list of components and values for the capacitors and resistors you would suggest for me to change in my crossover?
Jd,Yes I have a list of component values for my SC4's and not 4a's..You have the Focal woofers..So the values I have are probably different.It was for me very easy to unscrew and to slide the crossover out of the back of the speaker.The values were clearly marked on all the pairs I ever examined.Best bang for the buck and quickest to perform is resistor replacement.I would use the North Creek non inductive wire wound resistors these will handle the power are very quiet because of materal makeup. These parts need as much as 100 hrs for full breakin. I will be glad to help in any way I can.Tom
I almost bought a pair of Duntech. They are a bit wider as I recall. Nice sounding none the less, and it's great to hear I should be happy with my IVa's for years to come. I simply love them
Is there anyone out there that mods speaker crossovers, ie. changes out cheap parts with better parts?
hello everybody,
I'am from Belgium, in Europe.
We have here several brand of speakers and other components of high end materials but,even with chauvinistic I'm obliged (and proud) to say that I never heard loudspeakers that have an so accurate,so equilibrated,so magic than my Dunlavy SC4a... I never heard something that compare, they are the unchanging elements of my system.
My system is composed with:
-2x accuphase A50v (used in twice-mono)
-Drive & Converter Accuphase dp-dc 90-91
-Pré-amp Accuphase C275v
-Some speakers Spendor SP100,Zingali monitor 115,TAD 300,
Dunlavy SC2
-sennheiser Orpheus (great...)
-DG28 Accuphase (useless)
-All in wireworld gold linked.
Agree. I've changed just about every other component a couple of times over but the Dunaly's sound better each time I make an upstream upgrade. In most cases they're not the weakest link.

Try drinking a Belgian beer while listening. Even better.

Andrew
I have not quite completed my latest project of replacing the critical path capacitors, inductors and all of the resistors. I intend to write a full review including the process of establishing what components to use, as well as a hand drawn schematic for others to use if they choose to try this project.

What I can tell you now is I chose all Duelund components in the critical path and MOX resistors in the non-critical circuits. The improvement, although not as great as some have claimed is very worth the time and money. SMOOOOOOTH! Silky smooth is the first reaction. Resolution is increased, in visual terms it is as if I changed my computer screen resolution from a low setting to the highest and went from 256 colors to 1 million. All the same information is there, the presentation is just much higher quality. Some have stated that it is less grainy; I do not think this is the proper use of words in that I would not describe the Dunlavy IVa as grainy to begin with. Resolution in a visual sense is the best I can do.

Look for a full review in the coming months, I assure you it will be highly educational! It was for me.

Jade
Jade when I replaced components in my SC4's the resistors of all things made for the greatest apparent differences.. Except coating the inside of the enclosure with Cascade VBloc which seals the wood pores like concrete.Keep at it and let us know stage by stage. Tom
I concur with that Tom. The resistors were the only change in my first phase for the bass, and yet the bass was cleaned up and the leading edge of notes were more focused. The great thing about the resistors is you can get Eagle MOX resistors for $1.20 or Mundorf MOX resistors for $3.50. I chose the latter, but either way this may be the cheapest tweak available in this hobby.
Just a minor note for those using new capacitors in a signal line: BEFORE isntalling, try charging the caps with a varistor going slowly from v. low voltage up to their rated voltage. Proceed CAREFULLY thereafter in performing installation.

I've ordered new Cardas binding posts for my IVAs because I broke one. Currently the wires to the speaker posts are not soldered directly to the post but have soldered rings that are held to the posts by the nuts. Is there any benefit to soldering the wires directly to the post and eliminating the rings? Also, I removed the metal spacers that hold the binding post panels because I have speaker cables (Virtual Dynamics Revelation) that aren't flexible enough to fit into the recess. That's how I broke the binding post. Only down side is the posts are no longer flush with the speaker back which could cause problems in transport. Would like to hear your thoughts on the wires soldered dirctly to the binding posts. Thanks
I have thought about that myself and decided not to just because I wanted flexibility. I have both the bass and treble/mid-range wires on the same post so i don't need to jump on the binding post side. I still hope someday to bi-wire again, that being after I win the lottery.

Rja, your post got me thinking that this is one poor reason for not doing this. The nut on the inside of the binding post is almost always loosening and this can only make for a degradation of the sonic quality. I like your idea a lot, and I also would like to hear your thoughts on better quality posts.

The thing with for us Dunlavy owners is the resale prices are such that it makes no sense to change speakers. Besides what we buy? My feeling was putting a few hundred or a thousand into upgrading thew components will keep these speakers relevant for years to come.

BTW,, has anyone upgraded the tweeter, and how would one go about finding the right tweeter with the right measurements to fit the speaker?
Update on new binding posts.
I purchased the Cardas CCGG long posts, direct gold plate over copper. The rings that are soldered to the ends of the cross-over wires appears to be brass. These rings were bolted to the original binding posts. I am going to get the brass out of the signal path by soldering the cross-over wires directly to the new Cardas binding posts. The brass rings has to degrade the sound. Hopefully the new binding posts and the elimination of the brass in the signal path will improve the sound. Any thoughts on this from other Dunlavy owners?
Tweeter upgrades?
Jadem6, not sure how much this answers your question but I spoke with Alan Hulsebus of Orca Design concerning Dynaudio tweeters, such as I have in my Duntech Princess speakers. He believes the D-28 and D-28-2 sound identical. As for the more expensive Esotar, the only difference he hears is about 1 dB gain in efficiency, otherwise, "same frequency response, same waterfall, same impedance, same distortion, same power handling, same soundstage."

Since I don't know which tweeter Dunlavy used in your SC-IVa, this may or may not be of interest. I will say that I've listened to a friend's system with the mid-sized Raven ribbon tweeter and find it to be somewhat more airy and detailed than my speakers. Also, I had the opportunity to listen to some JM Labs with their new beryllium tweeter in my system and, yes, it too may be marginally better. However, given the complexity of driver matching and crossover design that John Dunlavy put into my system and yours, what are our chances of making a change that "improves" our high ends?
The speaker binding post replacement and elimination of the brass in the signal path have made a noticeable improvement in my IVAs. I would suggest this mod to IVA owners. Cost should be well under $200 with perhaps 2-3 hours of labor. Well worth the effort IMO.
Did you replace all the steel mounting screws that hold the crossover in place? How about those around the tweeter dome and its plate mounting screws securing it to the cabinet with non-ferrous brass? Tom
I replaced all the screws holding the speakers with stainless steel screws. Didn't replace the crossover screws.
I did the screw change. Changed all the screws on the drivers and the crossover plate. I did not do anything inside the speakers. Wnet to a hardware store like Tom said and got brass screws.

All said and done. It did make a difference. There was much less grain and the highs were smoother. This is a tweak for C-H-E-A-P. Makes good audible difference. Go for it guys!

Now since the cold bitter Canadian winter is approching, I will see what others think/ suggest for mods to the speaker.

Cheers,

genesis168
The wonders of brass strkes again.Superior sonic material plus its non-ferrous so it does not disturb the flow of those precious electrons bouncing from place to place. Tom
Ember AV in Winston Salem has a seemingly mint pair of IVa for sale now, around $4k I believe.