Please help - system "brightness" problem

Problem solved - thank you all for your great posts. I found that two of the binding posts were lose (from the inside). The small nuts that hold the binding posts in place were lose and made it impossible for me to properly secure the cable lugs. I removed the plate on both speakers, properly tightened the small nuts, replaced and tightened the speaker cables and the problem I was hearing has vanished. Sorry for the post, but thanks for all of your help!! Happy listening!! Joel

Firstly, I agree with the above in that you should let the speakers break in for whatever amount of time is recommended by the mfg or dealer.
If that doesn't work, I have two suggestions:
1. The HT Truthlinks are a good cable, but I have found MIT 330 (older, beige version) to be a more forgiving cable for your CD player. The MIT, of course, will not have the resolution of the HT.
2. There is a tweak called the AH! LS Noise Filter, which is a filter you connect in parallel to your speaker terminals that will slightly reduce and clean up the highs. It only costs $50 and is available from Upscale Audio. I tried them on my B&W DM602S2 and got excellent results, but your mmv. The biggest downside to the AH is that I do not think it is returnable if it doesn't work.

Joel...I should have said "certain" recordings instead of "poor"... cheers

All good advice...plus what may sound initially "bright" may sound different as your ears adjust to a new speaker...and again this might not be the speakers fault...what you often gain in detail can be perceived as bright through poor recordings and electronic matching...it is the "double edged" sword of hi-end..I have not heard the the Tylers but they are highly regarded here and on other sites...good luck...

Go to
www.rivesaudio.com
and see if their model can assist with speaker and chair place. I did it and it worked very well.

The Tyler ref monitors can sound bright, particularly with solid state (which Ty prefers). There is a switch on the back to "step down" the highs which helps a bit. Also try a high quality jumper if you're not biwiring. That will help clear up the highs and they'll sound less hashy. You might also try experiment with positioning and room damping.

Good luck.

Neil, Zaikesman, and Warren,
Thanks for your advice. It seems at this point, patience is the key, of which I am often lacking.
Joel

If after a reasonable "break-in" period your new speakers still sound bright, ditch them and get some different ones.

I agree with Z, and Neil. Speakers take a long while to (some way more than others)come into their own. Relax and let those babies run while you're not around, if you can. This will give them time to settle down. Sometimes, the perceived brightness you're hearing, are bold contrasts, that didn't exist before. You'll know after 200 hours what the deal is. Get back to the 'gon after, and let us know what's happening. peace, warren

I would say to follow Neil's advice and give your new speakers a couple weeks' worth of regular use (if you haven't already) before starting to worry. Speakers exhibit both electrical and mechanical break-in periods, to my mind. From what I know of most of your pieces besides the integrated amp (with which I am familiar by reputation only, and I can see in your "System" that you have a good PC for it), I don't think the rest of your gear is likely to sound intrinsically bright. So my only other guess would be - if the problem doesn't resolve itself with break-in, and if the new speakers are not supposed to have a bright sound (I've never heard or read about them) - that maybe their dispersion pattern will require something different in the way of positioning or room treatments.

I have no experience with the Tylers, but many speakers require a break in period, sometimes a very long one. That may be one possiblity.
Also, apparently the B&W's may have greater bass extension than the Tylers, so it may be you're hearing more of the highs.
I was curious, so I looked at these reviews:

http://www.soundstage.com/revequip/tyleracoustics_taylo.htm

http://www.soundstage.com/das_bw.htm

Hope this helps.
--Neil