Peachtree GaN 1 Beta


Before I start my post here is my current system for reference:

Auarlic Aries G1 --> Denafrips Terminator or SW1X DAC --> Audio GD HE1 XLR preamp or Sachs preamp --> various tube amps --> Cube Nenuphar Mini's w/ a pair of REL S510 subs. Cables and power conditioning commensurate with the rest of the system.

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As warmer months approach I have been looking for a cool running amp to replace my Line Magnetic LM-518 and other tube amps for a few months as they run pretty hot.

I've been interested in the GaN FET amps and just purchased a used LSA Voyager 350 Gan FET amp which I should receive in a few days. I've tried class D amps before and while they checked a lot of boxes I just didn't feel drawn in. However, I like to explore so I figured I'd try the GanFET and since the amp has zero feedback and my speakers seem to prefer amps with little or no feedback I figured it be worth checking out.

Today, Peachtree Audio sent out an email inviting users to a beta of their new Gan 1 amp. Here are some excerpts from their email:

 

What is the GaN 1?

In basic terms it is a 200 Watts-Per-Channel (WPC) Power Amplifier designed to be the sole interface between your digital audio device with a variable output, like a Bluesound NODE, and your speakers. The GaN 1 is a simple, pure and cost-effective audio solution: connect the GaN 1 to a streamer and a pair of speakers and you have an amazing Hi-Fi system. That's it...no DAC, no preamp and no input switching. The signal path from the music to your speakers is remarkably short and free of artifacts. Want to hear the intricate details in your music that have always been there, but you couldn't quite make them all out before? Then the GaN 1 is for you!

What makes the GaN 1 so special?

First and foremost is the GaN-FET amplifier module. It has several inherent advantages in a power amplifier that even the best MOS-FET designs simply cannot achieve. A GaN-FET power stage provides a precise high-power reproduction of the Class-D PWM signal with extremely high linearity. This linearity eliminates the need for ANY feedback, ultimately allowing for the best possible audio quality providing clean, clear middle and high frequencies and a tight, solid reproduction of low frequencies. GaN-FETs track the complex audio waveforms MUCH more accurately than MOS-FETs, resulting in significantly more transparent and natural sound. The difference is something even a casual listener can hear and appreciate. The GaN 1 is also designed so that it does NOT require a digital-to-analog-converter (DAC). The digital audio signal at the input directs the amplifier outputs to drive the speakers. Although DACs have continued to improve over the years, there is no DAC better than NO DAC! This concept is not new as similar devices known as "Power DACs" made quite a splash in our industry years ago. But this time around, by executing the concept with GaN-FETs, the bar is raised to an entirely new level.

Key Features at a Glance:

▪ 200 WPC state-of-the-art GaN-FET module
▪ ZERO feedback design
▪ Regulated 450-Watt power supply
▪ Coaxial S/PDIF input with native support up to 24-bit / 192kHz
▪ DAC-less design
▪ Power on/off trigger port
▪ All aluminum chassis
▪ No cooling fans

 

This sounded really interesting to me and since I have a good streamer I signed up for the amp beta only. One aspect that intrigues me is to create an extremely minimal signal path. My speakers are single driver, crossover-less design. Employing the GaN 1 will mean the system will be Auralic Aries --> GaN 1 --> Cube Nenuphar Mini's. Will that lead to a more engaging sound vs the full system? Will the Voyager GaN 350 outperform a tube amp in the full system? Who knows, should be fun to find out....

Now, I have no idea how either of these GaN FET amps will work with my speakers. The Cube Nenuphars seem to prefer amps with low damping and no negative feedback, which is more common with SET tube amps and Class A solid state amps. I'm not sure of the damping factor of the GaN FET amps, but both are Zero feedback designs, and both have way more wattage than I need. For reference, I have a 1.5 wpc 45 tube amp that sounds amazing with the Cubes, so high wattage is not required. I am interested though in what these amps will sound like compared to my tube amps, and I am particularly interested in what the streamer direct to amp Peachtree will sound like.

I am also looking to acquire a First Watt SIT-3, which is a great match with the Cubes, but now that they are no longer produced prices have gone above my current comfort level. If I can get one I will throw it into the experiment.

The Peachtree won't be shipped until sometime in June, or possibly later. In the meantime I will get the LSA Voyager in the next few days. I might even be able to get it hooked up this weekend so stay tuned, should be an interesting experiment...

abd1

Hi Folks!

Happy New Year first of all.

So far I really like the Gan 1. I have no preconceived notions but I did buy it based on the amp being directly controlled by the Node and hoped it would sound nice. There is also the relatively inexpensive price. It integrates perfectly with my Nvidia Shield Pro too. The simplicity of the setup and the sound quality it gives me I feel, and that is purely subjective, is really good. I love a simple set up and this is as simple as it gets yet does everything I want from it.

So far the 3 folks who have this amp in the thread like it. Time will tell if we just liked the kool aid.

Thanks for all the posts in this thread I enjoy reading everyone's opinion on things. I don't let them influence mine though.

 

Kindest regards, dolfan

@yyzsantabarbara 

Not that you would let science get in the way but be aware that nothing being done to mod your amp will make it perform better. You might have convinced yourself it is better, but like putting your cd's in the freezer improves the sound, or other such nonsense, it is all in your head.

@kitsap2 

Like I said, science doesn't care about your opinions and neither do I.

People should go into a purchase with their eyes wide open. This amp is not what is being advertised, as I have explained. Some people appreciate an honest opinion, rather than hear only the self interested claims of someone looking to take your money by praying on ignorance and insecurity. There is too much fraud, deceit, and dishonesty in audio. Wake up.

@kuribo  Well, my comment was removed, but I'm glad you were able to read it.  Sorry (not really) about being off topic, but what I conveyed was the truth, like it or not.

The folks on this thread are talking about a piece of gear they have, or are going to have, or maybe even want.  I also have the GaN 1 and like it a lot.  But you have made it known throughout the last few pages of this thread what you think. And, for the most part, are ignored.  Why continue raining on other's parade when you don't agree with their enthusiasm, or beliefs.  It's rather confounding.

Let me give Ric a bit of support on these comments by saying that I had the brand-new stock LSA Voyager 350 GAN amp. It was pretty good as stock and I heard it for the first 200 hours with my Thiel CS3.7 (sold), KEF LS50 non-meta, and RAAL SR1a.

I was comparing it with the CODA #8 amp (sold) and the Benchmark AHB2 monos (or maybe stereo). The stock Voyager did not have as much power as the CODA #8 nor was it as clean sounding on top as the AHB2. It was sort of in the middle of both those 2 amps.

When I got the Voyager back from Ric about a month later, the clarity of the Voyager approached the AHB2 (that was shocking). No amp I have heard comes close to the AHB2 in terms of clarity with that beautiful smoothness, so this was a real surprise. Maybe the only other amp is the CODA #16 which I bought last week and not delivered yet. That clarity was one reason I got the #16, as was the more power compared to the AHB2. I want a lot of power for my Livingroom speaker. The Voyager and gear mentioned was in my office.

I sold the modded Voyager because it lacked power to match the CODA #8. I was also concerned about the modded Voyager not having a power switch (we agreed to remove it). My CODA 07x preamp (sold) also did not have a power switch and for safety and the extra power reasons I kept the CODA #8 over the modded Voyager.

My experience with the Voyager mods leads me to believe that the GAN1 will come back to me in a month or 2 sounding way better than stock. I do not have time to listen for total break-in this time of the GAN1 because I am going to be very busy for the next few months. I will let Ric figure that out.

 

 

I am with @kuribo on this topic. I read the manifesto, which I later learned was written by @ricevs after I made my comment. I am not an EE, but I have been involved in professional speaker development and management of for closing on 2 decades. I am technical enough to have picked up more than a few things. It is not hard to see that was @ricevs is writing about is a laundry list of audio cliches. In our products, we are responsible from everything from the input, which is often digital today, to what comes out of the drivers. We know, in great detail, everything that affects the sound coming out of the speakers. None of the items on that list of modifications would even begin to be a consideration unless there was an identified fault to start. There is as much chance, probably more, of creating a new issue as there is of fixing an unidentified issue that probably does not even exist.

@dolfan 
 

I know there are shortcomings in everything but for us regular folk the sound quality and simplicity we get for less and less money spent is incredible.

True, but there are much better products out there for the money than this poorly designed amp.

@kitsap2 

Science doesn't care about your opinion and I am not moved by your ad hominem attacks nor your arm chair psychology. If you, or anyone else, have anything germane to add to this discussion, by all means, feel free. Otherwise, your off topic, attack the messenger comments are simply just more noise.

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@kuribo we are grateful to you scientists for steadily advancing all things in this world. Most of us don't have a clue what you can so easily dissect. The advancements you guys make are truly amazing.

I know there are shortcomings in everything but for us regular folk the sound quality and simplicity we get for less and less money spent is incredible.

 

thank you, dolfan

I know it will be better than stock from the mods.

That’s called confirmation bias. Confirmation bias is the tendency to search for, interpret, favor, and recall information in a way that confirms or supports one’s prior beliefs or values.

Can you name one thing he will do that has any hope of altering this amp’s performance in a way that can be proven to be an improvement? Can he? No. All you will get is a meaningless spiel about how everything changes the sound and you can’t measure any of it. That’s ok, your confirmation bias has already made up your mind- he could literally do nothing and you will swear it sounds better. Chaching....

However, the rolled off quality maybe still be there if it does not disappear after more burn-in. Ric could also address that with his mods.

Really? He’s going to redesign the circuit and add an output filter? Lol, it’s people like you who keep people like him in business. Enjoy your kool-aid.

 

Well, my GAN1 is now gone for 1 or 2 months while Ric does his thing. I won’t be acclimated to it when I get it back. It won’t be a apples-to-apples comparison because I know it will be better than stock from the mods. However, the rolled off quality maybe still be there if it does not disappear after more burn-in. Ric could also address that with his mods.

@ricevs You should post your thoughts on the sound and the changes you hear with your mods to have a timeline or history.

I am not sure what to want with these mods because I loved the way it sounded on my SR1a last night. Whatever, the case it will be a fun exercise to see the outcome.

another owner heard but it went away after more hours. 

It's called acclimation.

I have been informed that the rolled of nature of the GAN1 that I described is something that another owner heard but it went away after more hours. 

@ricevs Ric, the amp is on the way for Wednesday delivery. I also sent you my RAAL SR1a earphone and RAAL adapter box for you to hear. I also have the second-best headphone cable for the earphone in the box.

I do not connect speakers (option available) to the adapter box just the earphones. I hope you enjoy it; at minimum you hear something totally different. That is 2-channel sound without room acoustics to worry about.

 

Maybe why some think so, but certainly not a sign of good design. Lots of people liked the old 1980's open loop Tripath class d amps too. And lots didn't.

My opinion is that the top end is definitely rolled off.

 

That's what happens with open loop class d amps...

Thanks for the info. I think i'll let someone else try it first. Don't want to break my amp

NO..NO.....You need a PLUS and MINUS 32 Volt 400+ Watt power supply for the module. Most switching and linear supplies only have plus voltage. Making your own linear supply would be easier than trying to find an off the shelf supply.......but maybe in your searches you will find a plus and minus 32V supply....happy hunting. It has to be rated at least 400 watts.....the more the better.

Looks like LHY audio has an 18v lps with enough juice, 8.8A, to power the gan 1, I think. Can you just hook up + to + and - to - and just ground it to the case? 

Sure, send me the amp.  I am just now ordering an IFI Zenstream and will mostly be listening to files through a usb stick plugged into the back of the IFI.....Especially want to hear my 24/192 download of Tea for the Tillerman that was transferred from the master tape using the $30K ADC from MSB.......

@ricevs If you want the amp, I can send it up to you. If you get back to me before 4PM I can send it today. However, I am going to stick with the SR1a for the GAN1 and not my 2-channel gear. I am going to setup the fibre steaming in my family room tonight and I am not going to move that stuff back up to the office to test 2-channel.

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One thing I did not mention in my rambling post from 3AM was the 3 amps that worked well with the SR1, the CODA #8, Parasound A21+, and KRELL DUO 175XD, all had the benefit for being connected to the CODA 07x preamp. This preamp is definitely warm and considered tube-like. I also had the smooth Musetec 005 in that chain. So that setup was geared towards warmth and smoothness. The GAN1 is sort of naked compared to the other amps.

 

There are no normal coupling caps in a digital amp.....just the filter caps to ground on the output.  However, sometimes on an spdif input there will be a tiny .1uf coupling cap to block DC.......we will see if there is one in the GaN1.....if so, I will certainly upgrade it.

A stock GaN1 amp is really good.....but there are so many ways to make it better:

1. Eliminate the junk AC/Fuse connector and use a Furutech inlet......The better inlet and removal off the fuse will sound much better. You don’t need two fuses: one on the power supply and one on the outside of the amp....one bad fuse is bad enough....two is worse.

2. Changing the AC input wire to the power supply with seriously good sounding larger gauge wire......better sound again.

3. Changing the fuse on the power supply to an audiophle fuse for better sound again.

4. Change the output wire to better sounding wire and hardwire at both ends....(no push on connectors).

5. Change the output jacks to the better sounding WBT nextgens.....or even better to my plastic clamp goodies (you cannot use bananas with my plastic clamps...only spades and bare wire). Clampng using plastic hardware (all metals....even as a clamp...wreck the sound) is really the same as hardwiring. You are clamping the wire coming from the output wire from the amp board directly to your spade or bare wire on your speaker wire. I will be ordering the plastic parts soon and have the clamps available for people to use on any amp and/or speakers. The plastic wing nutted clamps will be mounted on painted wood (either as a single pair for mono use....or two sets for stereo use). This is the worlds best connector....better than silver binding posts or anything else you can think of........same sound as soldering the wires together.

6. Change the spdif input wire to way better sounding wire (hardwire at both ends....no connectors).

7. Try removing the "extra" inductor on the speaker wires.

8. Change and or modify the output filter caps on the amp board.

9 Damp certain parts.

10. Shield certain parts.

11. etc. to infinity.

So, if it is this good now.......OMG.......you are in for a treat.

Down the road, completely different power supplies can be tried...Even linear supplies......fun times ahead.

It is 3AM no and I got kicked off my ROON server. I force the server to shutdown automatically so that I have to go to sleep. I had a great listen with the SR1a headphones. My intuition about synergy of the GAN1 + SR1a was correct.

Let me first answer @ricevs question

  • Benchmark LA4 preamp ($2500)
  • Benchmark AHB2 monos ($6400)
  • Audience FrontRow with SpeakON terminated speaker cable ($4K)
  • Musetec 005 DAC for KEF LS50 ($3200)
  • Benchmark DAC3B (hardly ever for KEF LS50, $1600)
  • Audience AU24SE XLR and RCA (maybe $3000)
  • Benchmark 15-foot XLR between preamp and amp ($200)
  • Magnum Dynalab MD108T tuner ($8000)
  • Accuphase T-101 tuner ($1300 modded)
  • Sonore OpticalRendu | EtherRegen as an FMC | SystemOptics parts ($3000 approx)
  • RAAL SR1a amp interface box ($700)

vs

  • Peachtree GAN1 ($1400)
  • Audience AU24SX speaker cable (2 foot used $500)
  • Sonore streaming gear ($4000) Additional cost for Sonore UltraDigital, and SPDIFcable
  • RAAL SR1a amp interface box ($700)

I know a lot about gear for the SR1a earphones. The earphones are magic, and I spent a lot of time in the past 2 years figuring out the proper 2-channel amp to sound the best with the uber detail and hot treble of the SR1a. I had 9 to 10 amps go through the house. The best combo was the following:

  • CODA 07x preamp ($7200)
  • Musetec 005 DAC ($3200)
  • KRELL DUO 175XD ($11000)
  • plus all the other cables and streaming pieces listed above

This setup was the very best of all the combos I tried. I spent that $11K for an amp just for the SR1a. The KRELL was incredible with the SR1a, a warm and buttery smooth sounding amp.

However, when the RAAL VM-1a headphone amp came out it blew all of that expensive gear out of the water, and I sold almost all my gear except the Musetec 005 DAC and the Benchmark pre and amp. I rated the VM-1a a 10/10 in sound quality and the KRELL + CODA combo 8/10. I thought it was 10/10 prior to me hearing the VM-1a.

The SR1a is hot on top and can get fatiguing, such as with the LSA Voyager 350 GAN. The only 2 amps that were really good with the SR1a were the CODA #8, Parasound A21+, and the KRELL 175XD. Everything else was too fatiguing.

So, this was an important factor in my observation of the GAN1. When I listened earlier with the LS50 Meta, I thought it was a laid-back sound. I started to think maybe it was rolled off on the top end (that is with the current break-in). That was not the best sonic signature for my KEF LS50 Meta but for the SR1a it had great promise.

Listening to the SR1a and GAN1 was incredible. It tamed the hot SR1a and the sound was as good as the KRELL + CODA setup. That is some $30K in gear. However, it was not close to the VM-1a, but nothing is so that is not a big deal.

The other day I was listening to the Pretenders "Brass in Pocket" and heard some guitar track that I never heard before with the tube VM-1a amp and my Benchmark DAC3B. With the GAN1 I was not able to hear this. I also listened to a lot of 70’s music tonight, at first, music that could be fatiguing (and I played it loud). Judas Priest, Zeppelin, April Wine, Rush, AC/DC. No fatigue at all. Then some Bee Gees, Al Green, Michael Kiwanuka to hear some nice vocals, these were also non-fatiguing and a real fun listen. So as of now I love this amp with the SR1a. A home run in every respect.

I actually preferred the leaner sound of the GAN1 over the lusher sound of the KRELL and CODA pairing on the SR1a. That is just my personal preference. I would rate the GAN1 as an 8.5/10 with the SR1a. That is pretty incredible in my eyes to be the best 2-channel amp for my SR1a.

My opinion is that the top end is definitely rolled off. I have too much experience with the SR1a to know how the sonic signature is interacting with the SR1a. I also get fatigued easily with bad sound. The fact that I did not with the GAN1 make me believe it is rolled off.

I have a DSP Convolution filter specifically made for the SR1a. It was coincidently created by Mitch Barnett, the guy who also did some DSP work for my 2-channel. The SR1a filter is available for anyone to buy. I do not use the DSP for the SR1a or my 2-channel anymore. The SR1a Convolution filter tames the top end of the SR1a with certain amps. I would never use it with the KRELL or CODA but with the Benchmark AHB2 it was needed (until recently but that is another story). The Convolution filter seemed to do the same thing that the GAN1 amp is doing (that laid-back sound).

 

 

 

 

 

 

What is the chain when you use the Benchmark?  Benchmark DAC3?, Benchmark pre?, Benchmark amp? with two analog cables?.....total cost? compared to $1400 stock GaN 1?  What power cords, footers and line conditioning are you using?  Do you have any damped weight on the Gan1?  Will be nice to hear what you say when it is fully burned in and also after you get it modded (rubbing my hands together in anticipation....he he).

You guys really need to use the Giandel 5000 watt inverter run on LifePo4 batteries.....will blow your mind.....so pure and open.

The amp has opened up a lot and now the bass is comparable to my AHB2. That is using the WyWire speaker cables that are exaggerating the bass. The GAN1 is now doing the same thing (that is good).

I still think the GAN1 is still a little more laid back over my AHB2 system on my KEF LS50. A lot of people may prefer that sound. If I did not have my AHB2 system, that I love, I could see myself living with the GAN1 as the system in my office. However, now that I have 2 great tuners, and that is a huge part of my listening routine, I will not use the GAN1 in my office with the LS50 Meta. It will go with my RAAL SR1a headphones. I am going to be listening to this amp like that going forward.

I have not listened at low volume or with a variety of music, I will do that with my SR1a headphones, which are an even better speaker than the LS50 Meta and see how it compares to the 9 or 10 other SR1a 2-channel amps I previously had in the house.

I will put it back with the LS50 after I have a few 100 hours on it.

 

@yyzsantabarbara you can just use cheap speaker cable for the sub that you can pick up at a hardware store. I wouldn't spend a lot on that.

@donnylovely Yes, I think you mentioned it previously on this thread. I did some research on this and now I forgot what the heck I learned. I will re-visit that later today.

I did get in a second set of Audience AU24 SX speaker cables today, though it is very short (2 feet). I now have 2 sets of speaker cables to try and integrate the sub. I think that is all I need to do that.

I am using some WyWire "Silver" speaker cables on the GAN1 + KEF LS50 Meta, at the moment. These were very boomy with my AHB2 but not so with the GAN1. Likely needs more break in to get that bad boomy sound. My Audience AU24 SX cables and Audience FrontRow (only for AHB2) are not boomy at all with the AHB2.

I got my GAN1 amp today and set it up with the gear described in my prior post. All is working great. I decided to use my best USB cable too.

The unit is FOB so it is not fair to comment too much, but I am seriously impressed by this unit. The sound is excellent. It sounds clean like my AHB2 amp and also like the LSA Voyager 350 GAN (after EVS mods, GAN1 better than stock LSA Voyager). The digital conversion is really good. There may be something to going DAC-less

It is a shame that I cannot integrate my KEF KC62 sub-woofer with my existing streaming setup and my KEF LS50 Meta. I have no plans to use any other streaming technology, so I am stuck. I like my Sonore OpticalRendu’s.

The GAN1 is a bit of a laid-back sound and thus should be great with my RAAL SR1a earphones. This is going to sound great with the SR1a and so simple. I am going to put this in my Family room where there is no music at the moment.

I also bought a used CODA #16 amp today so I now have 3 amps I will compare later in 2023, Benchmark AHB2 monos, GAN1, and CODA #16 with KEF Blade 2 Meta.

I also have 2 tuners that get at least 3 - 4hours of workout M-F in my office so the GAN1 does not help there.

 

 

 

I got the Gan 1 a couple days ago. Can only compare it to my Classe Sigma integrated. The difference is night and day. I like it. So simple yet so good. Using the Node with it. 2.1 setup for TV and streaming. I posted this in Digital thread earlier by mistake.

I have not received my GAN1 unit yet but I did receive all the extra streaming parts I listed in a prior post:

  • WyWiire "Silver" SPDIF cable with BNC to RCA termination
  • Sonore UltraDigital
  • a cheap USB cable (I have a WyWIre USB also but I am not bothering to use it since it is used elsewhere)
  • Sonore OpticalRendu + LPS
  • Fibre Optical outputs in a nice network switch
  • ROON

I am posting this because I was worried it would not work and it was also a bit tricky getting this to work. It is working now and sounds really nice on my Musetec 005 (via i2s) and Benchmark DAC3B (via SPDIF). I am using ROON’s volume control and set my Benchmark preamp to a high volume level.

Step 1: Connect all the wires. The UltraDigital is powered by the USB cable from the OpticalRendu. This is likely the weakest point in my setup.

Step 2: Since the Rendu is ROON READY, go to the ROON Client and select the DEVCE SETUP. There is a bug in ROON that does not enable the SAVE button, so change the MQA setting to enable the SAVE button. Press SAVE, then reset the MQA to whatever was set before, then SAVE again.

Step 3: Log onto the Sonore management web site running on your local Sonore web server. It is on the Rendu. it is running at this address, http://www.sonicorbiter.com/

Step 4: Select MANAGE for your Rendu. I have 3 OpticalRendu’s and have renamed them to help identify the endpoint.

Step 5: Click SETTINGS

Step 6: Click ROON READY SETTINGS and change the VOLUME CONTROL to SOFTWARE. Save changes.

Step 7: The volume icon on the lower right of the ROON Client will now allow you to change volume.

Changing the volume is actually done well. It sounds damn fine with my current gear. Benchmark LA4 preamp + Benchmark AHB2 monos + 2 DACs

 

 

 

@yyzsantabarbara Yikes!  You certainly did answer my question in spades!  Thank for enlightening me into the world of specialty products.  I'm not at this level of music listening, but it's always fun learning something new.

I have the GaN 1, Bluesound Node, and am really satisfied with that arrangement.  If Bluesound made a 200wpc Powernode, I'd have purchased that.

Party on, Garth!

@kitsap2 This video will describe my 2 headphones. I have 2 of the older RAAL amp interface boxes ($700) to the SR1a earphones. My older amp interface box will not work with the circumoral CA-1a headphone, but I have 2 other dedicated headphone amps in the house for that one. I say all of this while not being a fan of regular headphones. The SR1a do not sound like headphones and the reviewer below did not like them for that reason.

(1) What’s a RIBBON headphone? RAAL Requisite CA-1A Review with Resolve! | Headphone Reviews and Discussion - Head-Fi.org

I will be using the GAN1 with 1 of my existing RAAL amp interface boxes. I am now reading that the tone of the GAN1 amp is slightly warm, this is great for the SR1a.

The SR1a earphones are my very best setup and I know three 2-channel people that sold their 2-channel system, including someone with Magico, because the SR1a was comparable or better.

The GAN1 will be compared against the following amps I have used with the SR1a. I know for sure that it will not be as good as the dedicated RAAL VM-1a amp because the amp interface box is not needed there. However, 2 of the amps listed below got me real close to the VM-1a (the 2 KRELL’s)

  • Benchmark AHB2 stereo and mono (only amps still in the house)
  • KRELL K-300i integrated
  • KRELL DUO 175XD
  • CODA CSiB integrated
  • CODA #8
  • NAD M22 V2
  • Parasound A21+
  • LSA Voyager 350 GAN (pre and post EVS mods)
  • D-Sonic M3a 800s

I will also be using very short Audience AU24SX speaker cables which I bought specifically for this GAN1 + SR1a test. I also have a longer WyWire "Silver" speaker cable to test the GAN1 with my KEF LS50 Meta’s. However, the LS50 test is not that useful to me since I will not be able to integrate my KEF KC62 sub with the GAN1 given my current streaming gear (Sonore opticalRendu).

The best preamp for these amps and the SR1a was the CODA 07x preamp. I no longer have that preamp. The Musetec 005 DAC, a warm-ish and smooth DAC was perfect on the amps above and the 07x. The GAN1 has no preamp and no extra DAC and no interconnects. My very best SR1a 2-channel setup cost close to $30K while the GAN1 setup will be $4800.

You asked a simple question and look what I rambled on about :)

 

yzzsantabarbara, I don't know if I'm missing something, but how will you use headphones with the GaN 1?

I know some digital cables should not be too long. What is the max length suggested for SPDIF cables. I have a great location to put the GAN1 amp (for headphone use) and I would get a lot less grief from the wife if I could hide my 2 streamer units in the TV cabinet. Then have a 10-foot SPDIF cable to the GAN1 running under a carpet. Maybe not audiophile but musicphile also works for me.

A 10-foot SPDIF cable a good or bad idea?

 

evank posted: This was just posted on Peachtree Facebook page

Thanks for sharing this post as I do not have FB.

This was just posted on Peachtree Facebook page

 

 

 

Are zero feedback amplifier designs like the GaN 1 susceptible to speaker impedance?"

The short answer is yes. The longer answer, for the GaN 1, is that a 4 Ohm speaker load will generate a ~1dB softer top-octave response. Below are the actual AP measurements showing the GaN 1 amp module with an 8 Ohm load (top lines in cyan and green) and a 4 Ohm load (bottom lines in yellow and red). You can see they are flat lines until ~4-5K, then the 4 Ohm load creates as gentle rolloff of about ~1.2dB at 20K compared to an 8 Ohm load.

What does THAT sound like? Many probably won’t even notice it due to their own hearing sensitivity at those frequencies, but some may perceive it as an ever so slightly "laid back" or "polite" presentation.

We do NOT "voice" the GaN 1 to sound any particular way as you can see. It is ruler flat with an 8 Ohm load, but we do get frequently asked "what will MY speakers sound like with the GaN 1?" And below is the most objective answer we can provide.

Unfortunately, what we haven’t figured out how to measure yet is how to chart how open and transparent the GaN 1 sounds. The ear/brain is an incredibly complex system and this is one instance where the measurements are FAR less meaningful to what will actually be heard. Compared to pretty much any other amplifier we have put up against the GaN 1, the difference is NOT subtle.

 

May be an image of text that says 'Audio Precision DigiGaN-200S RevA, +/-32V Rail Freq Response @ -9dBFS 03/24/21 15:07:35 16 50 100 200 Sweep Trace Color 500 Line Style 1k Thick Data Solid Solid Cyan Green Yellow 2k Axis Comment 5k Anlr.Level Anir.Level Left 10k Ch1, -9dFS n, -9dFS 56.2 20k Out Dut 8-Ohms 8-Ohms 04 Freg Response at27'

 

I just rewatched the Youtube review of the GaN 400 and Pre DAC by Thomas & Stereo. Many of the good qualities he described of that pair is what I look for in my music. If the GaN 1 can get me all of those qualities and more, then I would be very happy.

I just bought a used Lumin U1 Mini specifically for the LEEDH volume control. I’m still waiting for the Holo Audio Red streamer which will now be used in DDC mode with the U1 Mini. I’m very eager to listen to all of this.

Is this what you are talking about?

An 16 bit word length doesn't work as well as 24 bits, 32 or 64.

atmasphere's avatar

atmasphere

10,753 posts

 

So Ralph, are you saying that the data output (to be sent the the input of the Gan 1) sampled at 96kHz would not necessarily be a restrictive limiting factor to the ultimate performance of the Gan -1?

I am. The limitation is in the word length, not the scan frequency.

 

Is this what you are talking about?

@dspringham I thought that was just for Bluetooth? I am sure it will be an issue for some. Wouldn't be an issue for me personally. I don't think it would be an issue for most, considering the price category. I don't think it will be a huge audible difference between 96 and 192, at least on my system. 

Keep in mind that the MiniDSP Flex only outputs at 96kHz on it's SPDIF connections so the MiniDSP/GAN 1 chain can't take advantage any any higher bit rate streams from the server. Does anyone see this as a disadvantage to using a conventional DAC/analogue amplifier chain?