Before I start my post here is my current system for reference:
Auarlic Aries G1 --> Denafrips Terminator or SW1X DAC --> Audio GD HE1 XLR preamp or Sachs preamp --> various tube amps --> Cube Nenuphar Mini's w/ a pair of REL S510 subs. Cables and power conditioning commensurate with the rest of the system.
As warmer months approach I have been looking for a cool running amp to replace my Line Magnetic LM-518 and other tube amps for a few months as they run pretty hot.
I've been interested in the GaN FET amps and just purchased a used LSA Voyager 350 Gan FET amp which I should receive in a few days. I've tried class D amps before and while they checked a lot of boxes I just didn't feel drawn in. However, I like to explore so I figured I'd try the GanFET and since the amp has zero feedback and my speakers seem to prefer amps with little or no feedback I figured it be worth checking out.
Today, Peachtree Audio sent out an email inviting users to a beta of their new Gan 1 amp. Here are some excerpts from their email:
What is the GaN 1?
In basic terms it is a 200 Watts-Per-Channel (WPC) Power Amplifier designed to be the sole interface between your digital audio device with a variable output, like a Bluesound NODE, and your speakers. The GaN 1 is a simple, pure and cost-effective audio solution: connect the GaN 1 to a streamer and a pair of speakers and you have an amazing Hi-Fi system. That's it...no DAC, no preamp and no input switching. The signal path from the music to your speakers is remarkably short and free of artifacts. Want to hear the intricate details in your music that have always been there, but you couldn't quite make them all out before? Then the GaN 1 is for you!
What makes the GaN 1 so special?
First and foremost is the GaN-FET amplifier module. It has several inherent advantages in a power amplifier that even the best MOS-FET designs simply cannot achieve. A GaN-FET power stage provides a precise high-power reproduction of the Class-D PWM signal with extremely high linearity. This linearity eliminates the need for ANY feedback, ultimately allowing for the best possible audio quality providing clean, clear middle and high frequencies and a tight, solid reproduction of low frequencies. GaN-FETs track the complex audio waveforms MUCH more accurately than MOS-FETs, resulting in significantly more transparent and natural sound. The difference is something even a casual listener can hear and appreciate. The GaN 1 is also designed so that it does NOT require a digital-to-analog-converter (DAC). The digital audio signal at the input directs the amplifier outputs to drive the speakers. Although DACs have continued to improve over the years, there is no DAC better than NO DAC! This concept is not new as similar devices known as "Power DACs" made quite a splash in our industry years ago. But this time around, by executing the concept with GaN-FETs, the bar is raised to an entirely new level.
Key Features at a Glance:
200 WPC state-of-the-art GaN-FET module
ZERO feedback design
Regulated 450-Watt power supply
Coaxial S/PDIF input with native support up to 24-bit / 192kHz
DAC-less design
Power on/off trigger port
All aluminum chassis
No cooling fans
This sounded really interesting to me and since I have a good streamer I signed up for the amp beta only. One aspect that intrigues me is to create an extremely minimal signal path. My speakers are single driver, crossover-less design. Employing the GaN 1 will mean the system will be Auralic Aries --> GaN 1 --> Cube Nenuphar Mini's. Will that lead to a more engaging sound vs the full system? Will the Voyager GaN 350 outperform a tube amp in the full system? Who knows, should be fun to find out....
Now, I have no idea how either of these GaN FET amps will work with my speakers. The Cube Nenuphars seem to prefer amps with low damping and no negative feedback, which is more common with SET tube amps and Class A solid state amps. I'm not sure of the damping factor of the GaN FET amps, but both are Zero feedback designs, and both have way more wattage than I need. For reference, I have a 1.5 wpc 45 tube amp that sounds amazing with the Cubes, so high wattage is not required. I am interested though in what these amps will sound like compared to my tube amps, and I am particularly interested in what the streamer direct to amp Peachtree will sound like.
I am also looking to acquire a First Watt SIT-3, which is a great match with the Cubes, but now that they are no longer produced prices have gone above my current comfort level. If I can get one I will throw it into the experiment.
The Peachtree won't be shipped until sometime in June, or possibly later. In the meantime I will get the LSA Voyager in the next few days. I might even be able to get it hooked up this weekend so stay tuned, should be an interesting experiment...
@ricevs, it would probably be best not to post links to technical articles you do not fully understand. I was trying to be nice before and give you a way out. Class-D and PWM are not the same thing. A Class-D amplifier may use PWM. However, that is not what you said, you said this,
"The GaN1 is the DAC.....it changes PCM directly to PWM (class D analog switching)".
Class-D may use PWM, but PWM is not Class-D. Put in simpler terms, an Orange is a fruit, but not all fruits are Oranges.
Class-D is an amplifier architecture. Peachtree may call it Digital Class-D, but that is marketing. There is no such thing as "Digital Class-D". You are more accurate to call it a power DAC as you did because that is what it is. They call it an amplifier but it does not amplify anything hence why it cannot be a "Class-D" amplifier.
Did you measure the switching frequency on your oscilloscope? I was curious as to what it was.
The ego finds it easy to nitpick and cause a fuss and pretend to KNOW tthngs (I know, I have been there)......however, The SOUL wants everyone to be happy. It praises and celebrates every single second and every single person. I celebrate everyone.....I celebrate this and every moment.....for this moment is the most beautiful moment that has every existed in the entire history of the entire universe......it has always been so.....Thank you....I love you. There is only this moment....the past is gone....the future has not arrived......can you dig this moment? This most beautiful moment...........I hope you embrace it with all your passion......hugs and kisses for everyone.........Listening to "Where do the children play" right now.....lovely.
What the heck are you talking about. Nitpicking? I expect someone going in with a soldering iron and modifying someone else's amp to be an expert and understand what things are. Paragraphs of flowery language does not excuse that requirement. Caveat emptor. @atmasphere 's prior warning is ever more salient.
@thespeakerdudedon't send him your amp then. We all know your the smartest person on earth and that you are better than everybody else. No need to rub it in.
@donnylovely- No, I know I am not an EE, but I have quite a few who work for me and I have managed a lot of projects with EE involved. I understand my limitations especially when working on someone else's equipment. This is not a simple tube or transistor amplifier. @atmaspherewho is an EE I believe and an expert has discussed the issues of modifying a Class-D amplifier when you don't have the proper tools or experience.
I have a Bachelor's/Master's in CpE. I can say the mods I've made to my VTV D300 does not require any college education. It's fairly basic to switch out stock wires/inlets/connectors with better wires/inlets/connectors. The most crucial thing for me was to learn how to solder/crimp properly, to do research on parts and techniques, and to take my time to get it right the first time.
I'm now reaping the sonic rewards. It'll be great to hear about the gains from the mods on the GaN 1. I know I would be able to relate.
I am the guy whose GAN1 amp Ric is working on. I have zero concerns about what the heck he is doing. He modded my LSA Voyager 350 GAN amplifier sometime back and the result was WAY better than stock. Specifically in the clarity department.
When Ric is telling me the GAN1 is a bigger improvement over the Voyager mods I am now very enthusiastic to hear the amp.
I have 3 pretty fine streamers to hook up to the GAN1. It will be compared to a CODA #16 amp + Lumin X1 vs GAN1. The speakers are LS50 Meta (only ones I have these days). I will also compare against Benchmark AHB2 + Lumin X1.
The stock GAN1 could not keep up with the AHB2 and a Musetec 005 DAC before I sent it for the mods. The Lumin X1 has replaced the 005 and the system sounds a little better than when I compared with the GAN1. The GAN1 has some tough competition when it comes back home.
BTW - I had some mods done on my Sony SCD-1 SACD player about 20 years ago. The machine partially died last week (never to be fixed), but those Vaccum State 5+ mods were incredible and made me realize modding is something I want to do with the right gear. Ric knows his sheete.
1.Did not sound good stock.....very grainy, dry and harsh. Some of the problem is that you have to play it for at least an hour before it really performs.....this could be the turn on warmup of my streamer as well.....as I turn them on together using my inverter.......maybe the inverter has to warm up.
2. Covered the external fuse with copper foil.......noiticeably more musical and correct.....costs nothing. It has another fuse on the power supply inside so this external fuse is not needed.
3. Did the entire AC mod which removes the inlet/fuse holder and switch. Changed the inlet to a Furutech inlet and hardwired much better wire directly to the power supply...and did another mod to the power supply to reduce distortion. Now I was crying....it sounded so good. I thought to my self....."I could charge $500 for this mod alone and people would be amazed". But, this was just the beginning.
4. Removed the output connectors, stock output wire with inductors, and hardwired great wire directly out the back of the amp and soldered them to my speaker wires. This will be an option as I will be offering my plastic clamps as an output connector option (slightly less good sounding WBT Nextgens will be standard)......I NEVER use any kind of speaker connector. So glad I can offer that to people. Much more detail, dynamics and bass power.
5. Changed the digital input wire to my own custom wire and wired it directly from the input jack to the input pins on the board (bypassing two connnectors). More detail again. However, it had gotten slightly less juicy with the last two mods......so on we went.
6. Changed the output filter caps on the board to modified Wima polyprop caps....oriented so the outside foil goes to ground for best sound. OMG!!! Way more musical, detailed, real and bigger sounding.....more liquid yet more clear.....Now we have something special. The stock Kemet metalized Polyester are really not good. These same caps are also used the the EAS modules used in the Peachtree GaN 400 and the LSA Voyager. These amps would sound way better with those caps changed out.
For those ASR types.....none of these mods are measureable.....the amp will measure the same before and after the mods. But the sound......well, you judge.
Some info is on my website and I am now taking orders. This will blow your mind!
Upgraded the output wire and eliminated the extra output coils (not needed).
For those ASR types.....none of these mods are measureable.....the amp will measure the same before and after the mods.
@atmasphere do you care to comment? I think the removal of an output filter for Class-D will be very measurable. I guess when you don't have to worry about compliance testing, anything is possible. @atmaspherewhat would happen if you hooked these up to a big electrostatic speaker or something like a Magnepan? Aren't these switching at frequencies right in the middle of the AM band and then hooked up to all that wire in the speakers? Aren't those speakers big capacitors? What is going to happen without those filters?
2. Covered the external fuse with copper foil.......noiticeably more musical and correct.....costs nothing. It has another fuse on the power supply inside so this external fuse is not needed.
I think what you meant to say is it is not needed for anything other than safety. If you are going to break EMI compliance, may as well go all in and break safety compliance too.
You only need one fuse in an amp to protect it.....It has a fuse on the power supply....you DO NOT need two fuses in a row.
The coil on the output wire is not needed. Atmasphere, Purifi, Hypex, Orchard, LSA, etc. do not use an extra coil on the output, they just use the coil and cap on the board. VTV uses the same type of module with no coil. EAS, the manufacturer does not recommend a coil on the output. Mbolek already modded his Peachtree and also eliminated the "not needed coil" on the output wire with positive sonic results.....please read his experience. Lots of manufacturers put things on their products they "think" they need......but actually wreck the sound. Marantz thinks they need to protect the secondaries of their power transformers in their CD players.....so they add 'extra fuses"......which ALL degrade the sound. They also put coupling caps on the output stages that they do not need........you know...."just in case someone sends 30 volts into the output stage of their player"....which is as likely to happend as you winning the biggest lotto on earth......meaning never.
The first main rule in tweaking is to eliminate everything not needed for sound....as every single thing has a sound......meaning it has distortion (not measureable....but sonically hearable)....LESS IS MORE!
I changed the caps to polypropylene. The small polyprop Wimas (not any other larger series) with my mods are more transparent that practically any capacitor in the world. Also, you need a small part as you do not want to radiate noise (this is one reason why orienting the outside foil to ground helps the sound).
You only need one fuse in an amp to protect it.....It has a fuse on the power supply....you DO NOT need two fuses in a row.
How about you run that by UL, or ETL or TUV. I assume you don't understand what that first fuse is for, but the one on the power supply is not a replacement.
Assume means......make and ass out of u and me.......usually it means make an ass out of oneself. When you assume.....you think you know something you really don't know.
The amp is protected by the fuse on the power supply....it is not soldered on.....a fuse in a holder, on the board.
Do you pick nits out of your navel? There are two modes in the universe....ONE IS LOVE.....praising and being of service......the other is EGO...or defending your position and making things wrong. Would you rather be RIGHT or LOVING? Your choice, every second. When you choose love.....everyone wins........when you choose ego....no one wins.
The only problem there is ......is you thinking something is wrong.....with your self and therefore with others......You are amazing and totally loved.
Thank you for your LOVE.....whenever or wherever you feel and express it. You are beautiful......you are not broken.....nor is the universe......all is incredible.......60 trillion cells in your body.....all working together and making life......what a miracle you are!......What a miracle everyone is and every second is.....IN JOY AND LOVE........FOREVER.
@atmasphere do you care to comment? I think the removal of an output filter for Class-D will be very measurable. I guess when you don't have to worry about compliance testing, anything is possible. @atmaspherewhat would happen if you hooked these up to a big electrostatic speaker or something like a Magnepan? Aren't these switching at frequencies right in the middle of the AM band and then hooked up to all that wire in the speakers? Aren't those speakers big capacitors? What is going to happen without those filters?
The extra output coils mentioned are only part of the filter. Certainly the result will be measurable, and likely audible as well. As best I can make out, the output filter choke remains. The amp would not function without it!
A zero feedback class D amplifier will exhibit an electrical resonance when used on an ESL; this being the result of the choke inductance and the capacitive load of the speaker. I've seen this resonance cause some class D amplifiers to fail.
I'm sure those series inductors are there for a reason. For example, most solid state amplifiers have a resistor/inductor network across their speaker terminals to increase stability at ultrasonic frequencies. In a class D, the concern is always radiated noise. To this end, with any changes made to the amplifier, its a very good idea to test the radiated noise to the AC line, since that noise can leak into other parts of the system (such as digital devices) and really mess with them. That is why its important to not just meet EU Directives, but to actually have noise figures well below that, since a lot of consumer digital devices aren't that good at dealing with switching noise in the AC power. Radiated noise which might emit from the speaker cables (behaving as an antenna) can also get into other equipment, increasing noise in the system.
Because most class D amps (if designed competently) are meant to meet EU Directives and similar emissions ratings of other countries, its often a Bad Idea to mess with the components in the output filter since they are often chosen for their noise characteristics; for example many capacitors have leads which have inductance; if the inductance is increased you can wind up with parasitics, which in turn if they don't mess with the amp directly can mess with other parts of the system.
Put another way, reducing noise in a class D can have a very direct improvement on how it sounds!
The output inductors he’s taking about, is a ferrite on the speaker wire outputs, the speaker wire is coiled around it. Not a coil on the power supply. Looks like the know it alls, don’t know it all. This we don’t listen to people that have never seen the product.
@ricevs Referencing your recent post (3/8 @ 9:08 pm), you state that the stock amp "Did not sound good stock.....very grainy, dry and harsh.". I find this statement hypocritical, since the beginning of this thread you and others have indicated that the GAN1 is an exceptional amp. I understand how your mods may make it better, but many of the opinions on this thread and others indicate that it is an exceptional amp stock. I realize that you may not have actually heard it until recently, but i am amazed that your opinion differs so drastically from others. I understand that you are interested in modding thes amps, but some of your readers may only want to buy the stock unit.
The output inductors he’s taking about, is a ferrite on the speaker wire outputs, the speaker wire is coiled around it. Not a coil on the power supply.
@donnylovelyYes- that was very clear in his prior post. FWIW, the choke used in a class D is not in the power supply; I don’t think anyone here had thoughts otherwise! A choke used in series with the speaker output (as mentioned prior) wouldn’t be part of the power supply either.
However if the amplifier suffers parasitics on either account, those can cause noise to be radiated via the power supply.
I was the world leading pusher of this technology based on my past knowledge and what others said about it.......but, when I listened to the stock GaN1 it was not what I thought it was......now it is. You can read anything into this you like. I tell the truth.....that is all I can do. The dealer Verdantaudio felt it sounded dry and thought it was good but not great.....well, he should hear it now. You can read his comments on the best DAC under $7K thread.
I should get the amp back early next week. On the following Saturday I will take it to an audio manufacturer and musician who has an incredible ear. I am helping him with some other things, and I want him to hear the GAN1 along with my Lumin X1 + RAAL VM-1a headphone amp.
One bit of bad news is that my KEF KC62 sub died this week. I am sending it back to KEF this Saturday, so I am not going to have my best 2-channel to test the GAN1.
Though, I have a RAAL adapter box for the SR1a earphones and the GAN1 + CODA #16 + Benchmark AHB2 monos. I will listen with all 3 in the SAME setup to have an apples-2-apples comparison. The adapter box draws a lot of current from the amps. I saw this when I had CODA #8 amp with meters. More than my now sold Thiel CS3.7 at about the same volume.
I have the KEF LS50 Meta speakers but without the sub it is not comparable to the full-range sound of the RAAL SR1a.
BTW - anyone take a look at a GAN1 competitor or brother. This is a supped up GAN1 with volume, analog inputs, and likely better software.
When I have the KEF KC62 sub working I think the Benchmark AHB2 monos with the KEF LS50 Meta is my best 2-channel setup, better than the CODA. A bit more clarity and the sub fills in the bass nicely.
Now that the sub is broken the AHB2 monos take a back seat to the CODA #16. The CODA #16 makes you wonder if I even need a sub. What an amp.
No, I know I am not an EE, but I have quite a few who work for me
You just made this up to troll this thread. Anyone can claim anything but you need PROOF! You got NO system, NO speakers, and NO proof of even ONE claim.
I assume you don't understand
Arguing again, why not just go away, do you understand that?
Depending on how good the GAN1 amp is I am thinking of trying the Maria amp for 30-days with the KEF Blade 2 Meta that I am getting. I have saved up cash to buy an expensive DAC but the idea of a single box, DAC, volume, and at least 1 analog input for my tuner sounds like a winner proposition. Not sure if the Maria has a remote control. I need something that is easy for the wife to also use and the GAN1 will not be easy the way I will use it. I will have that in the office where I am the only user.
@mbolek I have a call with the dealer on Tues. Along with the sonics, I am interested in how the WiFi will work with ROON. Also, whether it has a has a remote control.
The bi-amping feature is another thing I want to understand.
Hope you can post on how it sounded and a comparison to some other gear.
I got the modded GAN1 amp and my RAAL SR1a phones back today. I will give a description of the setup I will be using in the next few days.
I was not able to figure out how to use the Lumin X1 DAC’s SPDIF streaming output with the GAN1. The X1 takes fibre in and outputs to SPDIF but I got no sound on the amp. If I can figure out how to do this and also control volume via the XI then I will have my best streaming source.
I pivoted from the X1 and put in my Sonore OpticalRendu + UltraDigital streamer
This is fibre optical-2-USB-2-SPDIF. It is not too bad. Not as good as fibre-2-usb or just fibre directly into the X1.
All my gear in this chain needs about 10 hours to settle in since it has been disconnected for 3 months and some not really burned in (ultraDigital and some SPDIF cables).
It is late at night, so I am listening with my RAAL SR1a earphones. The GAN1 is connected to the RAAL amp adapter box via a 1-foot Audience AU24 SX speaker cable. I control volume using ROON software.
In the morning I will move the amp next to my Benchmark AHB2 monos and CODA #16 amp. I will use the same streaming setup to drive my KEF LS50 Meta speakers.
Listening to some Marvin Gaye and Stevie Wonder at the moment and it is definitely better than stock. Now I loved the stock sound of the GAN1. Ric hated it and Scott at Verdant Audio posted that it was bright. I heard nothing like that and thought it was the very best 2-channel amp I have heard with the RAAL SR1a via the RAAL adapter box. Better than my prior best 2-channel combo, CODA 07x preamp | Musetec 005 DAC | KRELL Duo 175XD | cables and streamer. All of that cost about $30k and is now sold. The STOCK GAN1 was better than that combo on the RAAL, not 2-channel. Which was an incredible result for me and that is why I wanted to see if Ric’s mods can take it even higher.
As I am listening, th music already sounds beautiful and will only get better with a few more hours. If I can replace the king of the hill, my RAAL VM-1a headphone amp from my office with the GAN1, then that is the greatest compliment I can give it.
The GAN1 will never be as good as the VM-1a because it has to go through the RAAL amp adapter box, the VM-1a does not. However, if I can get about 80%-85% there then I will move the VM-1a to my bedroom. I bet that is what will happen given how it is sounding now.
This Saturday I am meeting up with one of the designers of the RAAL VM-1a amp. I told him that I will be bringing the modded GAN1 for him to hear. I think he will be very impressed as I am now.
Listening to Isac Hayes WALK ON BY. A song that really moves me and hits hard with its’ soul and brilliance. I hear all that with the modded GAN1, this is really sounding good.
I just got the great idea of GROUPING my ROON stream to both the Lumin X1-to-VM-1a amp and the Sonore OpticalRendu-to-GAN1. So, the same fibre stream is going to two different amps at the same time. I just need to disconnect the headphone cable from 1 amp to the other to quickly compare the same song.
The VM-1a sounds better as expected but it is very close (which is the shocking part, no 2-channel has come this close). The VM-1a sounds more powerful but tonally they sound similar. Let me now try a very demanding track.
When I want to see if an amp can deliver the power, I put on Led Zeppelin’s WHEN THE LEVEE BREAKS. On the VM-1a and the CA-1a headphones the sound is the very best I have heard the song. On the SR1a earphones it is the second best I have heard it. The CA-1a is a more dynamic phone. The GAN1 does not seem to be able to scale the power requirements to really hit as hard as the RAAL VM-1a amp.
Here is some context on the power requirements of the RAAL adapter box when connected to a 2-channel amp. In the past, I used to have a CODA #8 (with meters) and it was connected to a Thiel CS3.7 speaker. The Thiel is a very hard speaker to drive, and the CODA #8 did a great job. The power draw on the amp was not that much at my regular listening levels. The meters did not move that much. When I put the RAAL adapter box after the CODA #8, CODA the meters would fly with approximately the same volume. The adapter box draws a lot of current. I think about 300 watts @8 Ohms is the sweet spot for a 2-channel amp to really drive the earphones with dynamic music, like WHEN THE LEVEE BREAKS.
It seems like the GAN1 could use a bit more power with the RAAL Adapter box.
None of this really matter when one connects the GAN1 to some 2-channel speakers (forget about the RAAL). I am looking forward to that on Friday. The sound is really opening up now. On slower less demanding music it hard to tell the difference between the GAN1 and the VM-1a (that is shocking).
These are the other 2-channel amps I have tried in the same comparison.
- CODA #8 (the CODA #16 will be compared tomorrow)
I am now using the Lumin X1 with Leedh volume to stream and volume. Sounds real fine.
It is 2AM and I cannot stop listening or start the work I was supposed to do.
My Audience AU24 SX cables from the amp to the adapter box seems to have baked in a bit because the sound has improved. WHEN THE LEVEE BREAKS is better now, maybe the amp does have enough power.
I can say for sure that this 2-channel amp is by far the VERY BEST I have had with the RAAL Adapter box. I am going to move my RAAL VM-1a to my bedroom.
I have a second free RAAL adapter box and I am thinking of buying a second GAN1 to put that in the family room. Now that the Lumin X1 can stream and do volume via SPDIF I have an extra streamer and another short speaker cable in storage.
Tomorrow let me see how this amp is with the KEF LS50 Meta. Whatever the case, the fact that I am moving the VM-1a to another room is mind boggling to me. I would have never thought that was possible.
BTW - I am fond of using Lynard Skynyrd SWEET HOME ALABAMA to hear how detailed DAC is. At the 57 second mark there is a background singer saying SOUTHERN MAN. On most gear I do not hear that vocal. On the GAN1 I do hear it not too faintly but not loud either. On the X1 and VM-1a it seems about the same.
I have been listening to the GAN1 amp + CODA #16 amp + Benchmark AHB2 mono amps + Lumin X1 DAC/Streamer + Benchmark LA4 preamp in various combos with the KEF LS50 Meta speakers. It turned out to be a lucky break that my KEF KC62 sub died last week and I sent it in to KEF for repair. So my LS50 Meta is naked. I also used the same used $200 WyWire Platinum speaker cable on all 3 amps.
A long story short, there is a new sheriff in town. It is called the PeachTree GAN1 by Ric Shultz.
I am selling my 2 AHB2 monos (maybe keep 1). Selling my Audience FrontRow speaker cable for the AHB2. They only work with the AHB2 since they have SpeakON termination at the amp end. I will buy a replacement FrontRow cable for the GAN1.
This will be my new setup in my office:
Lumin X1 stream via SPDIF to GAN1. I have a remote control and the X1 has the amazing Leedh algorithm working for volume on this SPDIF output stream
Lumin X1 as a DAC into my RAAL VM-1a tube headphone amp
I have a 15 foot Benchmark StarQuad XLR to go from the X1’s new location to my audio rack where the VM-1a resides. The X1 resides on the floor in-between the speakers, next to the GAN1 (on a block of wood)
KEF LS50 Meta (without the KC62 sub, selling it)
Trying to determine if the KEF Reference 1 Meta will fit into my 12 x 11 x 9 (plus 4 addition feet with a removed closet door (my desk is in there)
My only issue is getting my amazing Magnum Dynalab MD108T tuner to work but I can use the RAAL VM-1a headphone amp with the RAAL SR1a during the 3 hours I listen to radio (KCRW from 9AM - 12PM). I never consider it a downgrade when I listen to the RAAL phones.
My Livingroom system will be the following:
CODA #16
Accuphase T-101 tuner
Benchmark LA4 preamp
Benchmark DAC3B (sounds good with the CODA #16)
eventually getting a Playback Designs DAC/SACD player to replace my Sony SCD-1 that died 2 weeks ago
KEF Blade 2 Meta speakers
I got to get back to work. If I have time I will give some observations on the sound differences between all the gear.
@ricevsI sure hope you didn't charge yyz for your mods. Especially after his advertising...
The GaN1 is definitely a disruptor within the current amplifier landscape. I have had mine for over six months and it betters any previous Class D that I have had. This includes early Hypex, nCore, Purifi, Teac, NAD, Class D Audio, GaN400. It is neck and neck with my current reference (Hifi Rose RA180).
I did my mods and it was less than $50. I eliminated some of the switching, replaced internal wiring/binding posts/connectors. Trust me, the stock version sounds really good and the only reason I did it was for fun. I honestly can't say that it sounds any better. For me, incorporating better conductors/connectors and more secure connections are more of a priority.
I wrote about how I will use the GAN1 because it was a mystery to me at first with the amp having only a single SPDIF input. I also did not want to get the Bluesnode streamer. I think getting the Lumin X1 was a very lucky break. It seems perfect for how I am now sending music to the LS50 Meta and VM-1a (for the phones).
When my KEF KC62 sub died I revisited my initial complaints about the AHB2 and LS50 setup. It was lacking low end power and a little flat sounding. Adding the KC62 to the setup made the sound great, I loved it.
Today, without the sub the AHB2 came in last place in my shootout. The AHB2 has the most razor sharp outlines on the soundstage. The music is also the most clean sounding. This is something that I was always drawn to whenever I came back to the AHB2. However, that is with the KC62 sub and the Lumin X1 DAC.
The CODA #16 with the Lumin X1 DAC is a firehose of music. I am seriously concerned that the amp will blow up the drivers. The amount of sound and BASS I get from the small LS50 is incredible. This is clean, detailed, and powerful sound. Just a hair less clear sounding than the AHB2 but miles ahead in power. This has so much power that I was getting a bit of fatigue in my small room. I realized that I cannot listen to this amp in this small room for 8+ hours a day. However, this amp has got me excited to pair it with the KEF Blade 2 Meta later this year in my larger Livingroom.
The Peachtree GAN1 and Lumin X1 SPDIF stream via fibre optic input stream was more like the CODA #16 than the AHB2. The bass was more than the AHB2 and the clarity and detail on the music was like the CODA #16 and Lumin X1. That is a tad less razor sharp but rounder and warmer sounding, likely preferred by most over my AHB2 clarity preference.
The GAN1 bass was not as good as with the AHB2 + KC62 sub but it was at a point where the low end was sort of sufficient. I wish it would be easy to incorporate the sub into the GAN1. I do not want to hook up speaker cables into the sub and then speaker cables to the LS50 Meta. That does not seem like the right way for me to do the sub integration. I will figure out something later on this sub issue.
The music from the GAN1 is rather big. Similar to the CODA #16 in that it is wide and deep. However, the firehose intensity of the sound is not as strong. I never got any fatigue with the GAN1 (or AHB2's).
The integration of the DAC into the GAN1 seems to be a killer approach. I got the sense that I was hearing more (not detail), just a fuller dose of music.
In my home, the king of the hill is still the RAAL SR1a | VM-1a Lumin X1 (via fibre). I would love to have this same GAN + DAC tech inside the VM-1a. This Sunday, I am taking the GAN1 | Lumin X1 | VM-1a to one of the designers of the VM-1a. We had planned on meeting weeks ago for some computer/audio networking issues. I told him how good this GAN1 amp was and that he needed to hear this tech. His ears are the best and I am interested to get his feedback.
I only had the stock GAN1 for a day and it was breaking in as I was listening to it. I did not hear the bad sound that Ric or Scott at Verdant Audio first heard. I do remember that the stock GAN1 (brand new) was not that great on the LS50 Meta so I quickly moved it to the VM-1a.
It showed great promise on the VM-1a amp and that was going to be the intended future use. However, the amp today sounds incredible on the LS50 Meta. I am also someone who has had close to 10 amps in this room over the last 3 years. The GAN1 sound is similar in quality to the best of those amps. Though I get that sound with less gear. No extra DAC or preamp needed, that is the secret sauce in this GAN1.
BTW - the Peachtree GAN1 is an amp I am not selling, The LSA Voyager 350 GAN (also modded by Ric) could not beat my former CODA #8 and was sold. The GAN1 can hang in some ways with the CODA #16. That is great.
mbolek, I sure hope you don't charge people for work you do. Getting paid for hard work and knowledge is unamerican. When someone posts here about their thoughts on an amp it is because they want to. My paid ads on the amp will be on Audiogon soon. I don't do free mods in exchange for people posting positive comments. Certainly is helpful and kind when someone goes out of their way to describe in detail what something does......products, mods, whatever. Most people who I talk to say I charge way, way to little for my work.
I honestly CAN say that every mod I did made a significant sonic improvement.
Just like any component, the GaN 1 needs to be tuned up. The feet and platform underneath the amp will make a tremendous difference. Adding damped weight on top could help (footer dependent). The choice of power cord can make all the difference in the world.....same with the choice of digital coax cable. Read what Audio Bacon says about different audio cables (especially coax cables). You really need to get your whole system off the grid using the Giandel 5000 pure sine wave watt inverter......you only need a single 100 amp hour LifePo4 battery with a GaN 1 (it idles at 18 watts). You will hear a whole nuther level of detail when you put a great inverter on your system (and your system will always sound the same....not better at night or whenever you turn something off).....and another jump comes from a great line filter like the Puritan when used after the inverter and also using a dedicated ground rod for your stereo and ground filtering is another step up. The GaN1 and VTV D300 (more power and possibly more grunt....will be testing the modded VTV D300 soon)....are so inexpensive you can use the money saved to really tweak your system.
I forgot to mention that the AHB2 was better at low volume than the GAN1. Though now that I have the RAAL gear I do not listen at low volume while the family sleeps. Now, It is hard rocking all the time. :)
The Lumin X1 direct to amp, is almost as good as the Benchmark LA4 preamp and AHB2 monos at low volume. That Leedh volume is great. The only deficiency is that at very low volume it does not scale up in a constant intervals, like the LA4 preamp. That is nit picking though.
@ricevs I sure hope you didn't charge yyz for your mods. Especially after his advertising...
I am setting up a GoFundMe on my behalf. I will post the link shortly.
Can anyone tell me what my implementation options are for adding my KEF KC62 sub with the GAN1?
I am putting together a list of items that I am going to advertise to sell tomorrow. I am wondering whether to keep the fine sounding KEF KC62 or sell it. I plan on buying a bucket list speaker to replace the LS50 Meta in my office (with more bass), the Yamaha NS3000. The NS5000 is actually the bucket list speaker but it is way too powerful for my office, so the NS3000 will have to fill in. A sub is not essential with the NS3000.
My strong impression of the GAN1 + Lumin X1 has given me the confidence to sell the following gear,
Benchmark AHB2 x 2 (monos)
Audience FrontRow speaker cable with SpeakON at amp end and banana at speaker end, 44 inches long. Perfect for the AHB2’s. Too short for the stereo GAN1. Can be re-terminated by Audience.
Benchmark LA4 (50% chance I buy this again)
Benchmark DAC3B
KEF LS50 Meta
KEF KC62 sub (I would like to keep this if I can integrate it with the GAN1)
Sonore OpticalRendu
I am also considering the KEF Reference 1 meta and non-meta. The KEF can be bought in the USA while the NS3000 seems to be available only from Canada.
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