Not sure for power conditioner my amp or not.


Hi, I have an VTA ST-120 I built using KT88C’s for my 2 channel. I have all my equipment running through a Torus Power TOT MAX Toroidal Isolation. I have heard 2 different versions on what to do. As far as what to plug my amp into. The wall or the TOT’s? I know this isn’t a "power conditioner" such as PS Audio sells. Should I keep everything plugged into the TOT, so all my grounds are the same and it has the optional surge protection? Or straight into the wall? I tried the wall once, but didn’t hear a difference really. But I didn’t test for long and not sure I ever got to the point of drawing too much power from the amp. Which is the best way to leave it? Thanks! Scott

VTA ST-120

128x128smoorenc

Hey Smoornc,

If you have all of your components plugged into the same surge protector which is plugged into the same outlet then it would be grounded together. One problem is some manufacturers float the ground on the power cord input. In that case they are not grounded together. 
Also, Most grounding rods connected to your breaker box are not for audio. It’s there as a safety measure. Plus, the products builders use can be ridiculous. Like pounding in a metal conduit pipe and using it as the ground. 
Star grounding from the chassis is great!  Especially if the manufacturer did not ground from the power cord. It also helps eliminate noise.

Signal ground is different. That is where you are using the negative terminal on your interconnect terminals connected to you equipment chassis or back panels. I would say leave signal ground alone unless you talk to a dealer. You can mess up you gear real fast if you short a class D amp or a balanced amp.

Puritan is a unique product line that can take care of all three. They even have a product called GroundMaster City in case you can not install your own grounding rods outside your building. It works upto 85% as well as the GroundMaster with the rods. Great for multi unit dwellings. 

Hey Facten, 

The only tube equipment I have for now is my tube preamplifier. It’s an ARC Ref 2 SE. I only have it on when listening. It has a lot of capacitors so it needed about a day and a half after I moved the power cord from the Puritan to the wall outlet. You can usually tell that something good is happening right away. I just like to be fair and compare apples to apples. Also, Anyone thinking about a Puritan product. The power conditioners take 12 days to break in. I call it the 12 days of Christmas. The first day it’s great because it’s the first present. Somewhere in the middle you get socks and underwear. That sucks! But somewhere between the 10th and 12th day you get the big gift- awesome sound! Or back in the day an Atari 2600 with games. I’m telling you this because I own two of these and they both did the same thing. I hope this helps. 

Well i had my Krell Illusion plugged into one circuit and my Krell Duo 300 XD

into another and wound up taking a lighting strike 1 mile from my house which

wound up blowing out the digital processor on my new Illusion which had to be sent to Krell for repair  while the amp was just fine needless to say i am now looking at putting some power conditioning on both of these.  Yes the odds of this happening could be rare but I had it happen to me and don't want to put my equipment at risk again 

 Very interesting article on Zero Surge. That also shows what @facten  talked about. No changes in power signal. I am ordering a zero Surge. Zero Surge Analysis and Review 

Smorenc,

What a beautiful amplifier! I have the same VTA ST-120 with KT120 tubes, but it is nowhere near as beautiful as yours.

My experience (and with the same amplifier as yours) is that it will definitely sound better plugged directly into the receptacle and bypass the power conditioner. I would also recommend (if you have not done so already), that you upgrade the power receptacles themselves.....that is worth another bump in sound quality. I can highly recommend 3 receptacles: Furutech GTX-D(G) gold plated, Furutech GTX-D(R) rhodium plated, or the Oyaide R1. All are around $200 give or take, and well worth the upgrade....or at least were in my system.