New electrical wiring specifications

I went down the 10/3 Romex route, std 15amp breakers. You can get special audio grade wire, which I am sure gets expensive quick. I did two circuits (I am using a stereo amp). This made a very significant improvement, very cost effective at around $1.5K. Later I upgraded from the hospital grade receptacles to Isotek and got another very cost effective improvement (~$400). 

I would think this would be a basic approach. If your system is or will be very good and you can afford it, it would be justified in going further. 

Regarding receptacles about a year ago I bought some Voodoo cryoed receptacles. Previously I've owned Oyaide and Furutech. Prefer the Voodoo.

Put your earth spike under an a/c drain, if you have a/c.

This stops drying out in the summer.

I would PM @jea48,

He is one of the best members on things electrical, IMO

Bob

I have done several rooms in different houses over the years- 10 gauge from the local sub panel, 20 amp receptacles. The receptacles can be a subject of debate- there are some pretty spendy ones that use different coatings on the contacts- the Porter Ports I use currently (and have used in previous installations are uncoated brass but) were made to special order and Albert has no more. I'm not sure what other folks are using as a good, neutral receptacle- you'll see all kinds of references to "hospital grade" but if you run a search of the threads here, you'll be able to see pretty quickly that people use receptacles in the same way they might choose cables or roll tubes--to create a certain sound that is simpatico with their objective. I never bothered with the high priced ones- not b/c I think they are voodoo, but never saw the need.

There are some parameters on distance which forum member @Jea48 might be able to chime in on. My main panel is a fair distance from the listening room, so the sub panel is fed by 4 gauge wire, through a very large iso transformer, which outputs via 4 gauge and terminates at the listening room sub panel. 

I also had the back up generator people wire my whole house generator in such a way that the hi-fi electrical is fed before any power is sent downstream to another box- which is where the Automatic Transfer Switch is located. The ATS has a 24 breaker panel in the same box, so only the appliances wired directly to the ATS box are energized by the generator. I did this partly because of Fremer's reports a few years ago that he could hear the negative effects of the ATS even when on grid power. Apparently, there were a lot of other issues with his home wiring that needed to be cleaned up. If you look at my posts here on the subject, I always recommend that an "audit" be done, starting at the meter, which can be pulled by the power company for inspection. (Other of my posts go into greater detail on the value of such an audit). You are supplying power to an audio system that shares load and ground with a whole bunch of noise making devices so the goal is to minimize the effect of those. The notion of a dedicated circuit may be misleading in this respect- it is essentially a "home run" line from the service panel or sub panel to the point of use with no other "shared" appliances on it. But that line is still part of your household electrical system and can be affected by it. 

Bill

Y’all need to run dedicated silver wire service from the substation to your distribution panel. Special silver circuit breakers. Enough circuit breakers for each component. And hard wire, with the silver audio wire, from each circuit breaker to each component. 
And buy a 6’ solid silver grounding round. Locate it outside near the service panel. Then run a nice silver grounding strap from the service panel to the grounding rod. 

Me I ran a couple 12 gauge lines from my distribution panel to some hospital grade connectors. Done.
Last week a fellow destroyed the electric pole which had an old transformer. So now there is a new transformer hanging on the pole next to my house. Made no difference.