+2 Blu-tack. Cheap and effective, but after some time my wife’s speakers are now stuck to the stands like it’s cement, so make sure you place the speakers properly in the first couple weeks while it’s still tacky. Then again, it’s the bottom of the speakers so who really cares anyway? Best of luck.
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I have found that different speakers sounded best with different mounting methods. My Harbeths hated being secured tightly to the stands and worked best on spikes or some other hard interface, while my Operas functioned best when secured tightly with a dime-sized piece of Blu-tak on each corner. That said, if you have little kids or any other danger of the speakers getting knocked over, you should definitely use a secure mounting. But safety aside for the moment, you should experiment both ways. | |
I use IsoAcoustics Orea pucks. A nice clean surface s required on both sides but they have suction cups on top and bottom and do a nice job of holding things in place. It is also better to isolate your speaker from the stand than isolating the stand from the floor. They have a less expensive pro audio puck that is in black that is virtually identical in terms of performance but doesn't have the polished metal look. | |
Mine are bolted to a steel plate, which is then bolted to the Sound Anchor stands. I placed a small thickness of Isodamp elastomer between the speakers and the plate but that is more to protect the speaker bottom than for damping or sound improvement. My guess is that the best approach is dependent on several factors such as the speaker's dimensions, weight, and internal structure and the weight and stability of the stand. My speakers weigh 110 pounds each and the stands are 70 pounds so pretty heavy for a monitor. | |