Magnepan LRS+ resistors on the tweeters… which?


I have a pair of LRS+ and after playing with the set-up positioning for a while I have finally found the spot where everything aspect of the sound is right apart from the treble: it is simply too high, and is tiresome after a couple of records.

But Magnepan knows it and fit a pair of sockets to allow the user to play with 10W resistors, ranged from 1 to 2 Ohm.

The resistors that come with the speakers are not the best and some users refer that they affect the sound too much.

So I wonder, what are the best resistors to fit in the LRS+ ?

audiofilo123

Finally I have found the perfect partner for the LRS+: the Copland CSA70 integrated amplifier.
Spec wise it kind of defies logic, comparing to what most people (and myself) thought that was needed to feed the little Maggies, but it is a revelation!
This amp totally transformed the LRS+ and solved all treble issues. True, I still have the 10w 1,5 ohm resistor in place (too lazy to remove it?) but the sound is beautifully balanced, free from any sibilance or aggressiveness.

Absolutely every aspect of the sound gave a gigantic step forward in quality, especially the soundstage, the sense of transparency and bass delivery. No subwoofer needed in my 18 sq meter room. The LRS+ are indeed a miracle!

This is the entry level from the danish brand and can deliver 140w / 4 ohm, but most importantly it is designed to handle loads up to 1 ohm! Brilliant stuff.

I only wonder what the CSA150 could bring to the table… but I happy with the CSA70 and my bank account too, so case closed :)

Putting a resistor on Maggies to solve a HF problem would be a last resort for me. Placement, toe in or toe out, different amp, tone controls, PEQ, etc., would all be tried first.

Why is it a last resort? If a manufacturer put it on the crossover instead or a guy like me sold you a modded (’non bright’) magnepan and you just didn’t know about it, everything’s ok then?

Wondering what the logic is around here.....Is the key here that you didn't know about it (so some belief system didn't intervene)?

From what I gather from the manual LRS+ are optimized to sound excellent in a good room (treated/ not too lively) and that they do, very much so. They included resistors to help correct a less than optimal room.

When I first got my pair, I found the treble had a bit too much sizzle when put on the more vertical aftermarket stands. I tried the resistors and it tamed the high end but they sound worse overall. After a little time that sizzle went away without using the resistors. My room is modestly treated and well damped and the LRS+ sound amazing in there especially with my two Rel subs helping out.

Here’s the blurb from the manual...

  1. OPTIONAL TWEETER ATTENUATION: There are several reasons for possibly needing to attenuate the tweeters in the LRS+:
      1. Recordings typically in the “pop” or “rock” vein often exhibit a pronounced rise in the treble region.
      2. The Magneplanar Quasi ribbon tweeter is very efficient in it’s total energy dispersion. If the surrounding walls are exceptionally reflective, the overall perceived acoustical balance can be tipped toward a “hot” high end.
      3. Put A and B together and it can be unbearable.
  2. Attenuation is accomplished by placing a resistor in the attenuation position on the connection plate (see Figure 1and 2 below). Provided with your speakers are 1 and 2 ohm resistors for this purpose. These resistors will provide 1 to 4 dB of attenuation. If you continue to have a brightness problem you might consider room treatment.

More than the treble issues of before, now completely fixed, to my absolute surprise it is the bass that is puzzling me, in a positive way.
With the Copland CSA70 the LRS+ is beautifully balanced with a total engaging and satisfying bass output: there is meat on the bones for sure, and no subwoofer is needed.