Large speakers plus EQ, what have you done?

I'd be interested in other's findings as well.

You may think this is another method, in any case, it's relative to the bass.

’Good Enough’, don’t try for Perfection, just adjust what you already like.

Document what you have to start, and results of changes. Patience!!!!

Start with test tones from a CD (not LP, something in your alignment could be slightly off)

CD, tracks 9 to 38 are 29 1/3 octave test tones

Measure at listening position, seated ear level

Sound Pressure Meter, need hole for tripod mount

Chart, copies, write things down, use Pencil. I made enlarged copies of the booklet track listing.

Adjust, how?

My speakers, 15" woofers, you do not adjust the bass, you adjust the midrange horns (2) and horn tweeter relative to the bass, with pair of built-in L-Pads, so more or less mids, then adjust the tweeter horn to the mids,

One side, other side, then both, reduce ? back and forth, take a break, until the best you can do, took me 1-1/2 days last time.

then use your ears: old ears like me, typically boost the highs some but not too much.

Use music you are very familiar with for the final by ear adjustments, i.e. Eurythmics ... Cassandra Wilson, War of the Worlds Richard Burton’s voice, Enough is Enough Streisand/Summers Duet .., Friday Night at San Francisco 3 guitarists last 2 tracks

EQUALIZER, no level controls, why not see what one can do?

31 Band, Dual Channel EQ (DBX Clone, identical)

Adjust the Equalizer using the SPL Meter, when done it has Bypass IN/OUT Switch, so you hear any detriment if any, when IN at zero, when OUT, and hear results of any adjustments. Use the meter, use your ears last.

After messing about with it, I disconnected it. Waiting for friends with younger ears to let me know what they hear.

I had some Klipsch LaScala's that i tried DSP, mainly for time alignment and better control of the bass cabinet. worked well but in the end, I preferred a newer designed passive crossover, it just sounded more naturel to me. Granted you miss out on some of the DSP functions and lose a bit of bass control and integration.

Note at the time i listened to vinyl primarily so that was a consideration, having to digitize the signal seemed to lose something in the musical side even with the benefits of the better driver integration. Potentially a better DPS then the one i used would help here.

lastely i would not use your ear for adjustment ( other then minor) if your going to digitize it anyway may as well use proper messurments and adjust to the room. Thats the biggest advantage of DSP IMO

I do use subs, for the reason being that what and how they do it isn't found in integrated form in a pair of floor-standing main speakers (the subs take up 20 cu. ft. per cab, as a FIY). The main speakers are large (6 ft. 2" in height) as well, and in conjunction with each of their corresponding sub is considered and treated like a single speaker system per channel. The system covers down to 20-25Hz at full tilt. 

If that's an acceptable outset for the criteria set by the OP (again, essentially they're large floor standing speakers divided into two cabs per channel, treated and configured as a single entity), here's the deal: they're "EQ'd" actively over the entire frequency range by the same, quality DSP unit, and as such - combined with placement and acoustic measures - gives you an elaborate way to "morph" the performance at the LP in all aspects of filter settings - on the fly. Normally one isn't granted such a plethora of EQ'ing possibilities, and thus the performance of speakers is mostly rooted in their pre-configured passive filters (and room integration) with any EQ'ing done "on top" of this as an extra measure/layer, either via DSP or some form of analogue equalizer device.

I find having the opportunity of described active EQ'ing capabilities to be indispensable. We near-field measured my main speakers for notch placements, and measurements at the LP indicated PEQ areas in the filter settings. Everything from hereon was done by ear; fine tuning Q's, gain structure, delays, crossover points, slopes, overlapping/not overlapping (asymmetrical) XO points, etc.

I've tried DRC FIR-filter in both the time and amplitude domain over my previous, passively configured speakers, but wasn't entirely satisfied with the results as I found there to be a noticeable processing imprinting. As is I prefer the more "manual" by-ear approach aided by measurements, actively - meaning the EQ'ing is applied at the heart of the speaker's intrinsically necessary DSP crossover as the only signal layer.  

Current speakers Paradigm 120H. Powered woofers with room correction from 300h down. Without running the room correction still sound good but with it engaged much tighter more articulate bass. Non corrected sounds much more bloated boomy and loose in comparison.