Is the Technics SP10R motor controller using a switching power supply

With the present exchange rates+ Taxes and Shipping, the Purchase from Japan is presenting itself as attractive.

I can't answer the query you have raised, but do listen to a SP10 R > Glanz 12" TA > Miyajima Cart' on a regular basis, used in conjunction with Valve Equipment and Quad ESL's. I am always impressed with the presentation.

It apparently does use a switching PS but I don’t know about the variability of the voltage.

This from the Technics website:

To reduce the noise reaching the pickup, the switching power supply is equipped with a unique technology that provides a voltage supply with minimal noise by a newly developed "unwanted noise reduction circuit".

You can always run it off a variac or stepdown transformer.

@pindac 

What plinth do you use with your SP10R?

Can you see the back of your SP10R controller to see the inout voltage requirements please. 

I have FR66s and so am very interested in the Glanz 12". 

I use a Koetsu Coralstone Diamond 

This is copied from the online review linked below ("The external power supply is a switch-mode type, able to work on any mains voltage.").

Of course - confirm it with the manufacturer.

http://www.soundhifi.com/images/Technics%20SP10R%20HiFi%20World.pdf

DeKay

@ddriveman I do not own the SP10 R, it is a friends, this individual was initially a user of a Linn LP 12 that has many Upgrades included.  They purchased the SP10 R after being demonstrated my modified SP10 MkII. 

As for the TA Selection they were suppled a range of TA's to trial with the New un-plinthed  TT, mounting TA's on a Standalone Arm Pod.

I even loaned a SME IV to be trialed with other TA's, the 12" Glanz was the one that made the biggest impression.

This TT, is mounted in a Solid Aluminium Plinth produced by a machine shop to the owners dimensions, the TA remains mounted on a Pod.

My suggestion for you as a Plinth Material is to investigate the use of a Densified Wood such as, 'Panzerholz' or 'Permali'. To attain knowledge of this material early on in your planning will give a good footing for the future plans. I know from personal experience how valuable this Plinth  type is a addition to a DD, especially the Technics SP10 design. 

@pindac 

Thanks for your info.

I have a PanzerHoltz plinth for my current SP10mk3. It's an Albert Porter plinth.

I should be able to drop in the SP10R into the plinth.

@pindac 

Any chance you can ask your friend to take a look at his motir controller at the rear. Even better, send a pic.

Thanks.

@ddriveman You have done your research and in my view have invested wisely in the design for the Plinth. It would be very satisfying as a outcome, if only a minimum of modification is required to fasten the R to the plinth in place of the Mk III.

I will make an inquiry to have images taken, I am not too sure how to add images to posts on this forum. I only have had success with URL links. 

@ddriveman, the SP10Mk3 plinth should be a drop in for the SP10R. I ordered my Artisan Fidelity Panzerholtz plinth for a Thalmann-refurbished SP10M3 that was "lost" at the FedEx depot 22 miles from my home in No Cal the day before delivery. This was in June 2020, when shippers were suddenly overwhelmed by the pandemic. I have my suspicions. Anyway, because I bought the Mk3 from someone in Michigan and had it shipped directly to Bill in VA, who then shipped it to me, I never even got to see it. So near but yet so far! With the plinth already being made, I decided to pivot into the R. Luckily, one unit happened to be sitting in the Technics warehouse here in the States. Someone had ordered it and then suddenly backed out, likely because of a change in finances due to Covid. The typical wait had been around 3 months. Chris at AF received it within days from Technics and dropped it into the plinth, QED. Yours should fit no problem, although the grounding-rod arrangement Albert uses might need some relatively minor adjustment.

I’ll add, perhaps more to the point, that the Mk3 I bought was 100v. I was planning to run it with a Monarchy AC regenerator, which allows output voltage selection from 100 to 120. You could do the same with your R. I think Monarchy closed shop but you can probably find one used if you look. It was not expensive, something like $600, as I recall.

This is not a problem. Use an appropriate step down transformer that plugs into your house AC line, be it 120V or European. I have 3 different vintage Japanese turntables each happily running off a separate 120V to 100V step down transformer. Each step down transformer cost me not more than $50 or $60-ish. They’re to be found for sale on eBay. And that’s only if the SP10R is not already adaptable to 120V input (in the US) or whatever. My Victor TT101 was apparently sold originally via the US military and takes any of the standard voltages, apparently because of its switchable power transformer.

You sure do NOT need one of those $600 Monarchy things, which is probably a power regenerator, a la PS Audio, etc.

I also have a selection of Vintage DD TT's imported from Japan, and have a few en-route at present.

I am happy to use a simple Walwart Step Down Tranx when getting the early impressions of a TT. If it becomes one I am interested in for further investigations, it will be converted to 230V.

These TT's are usually purchased under the impression they are wanting in some way, which all have proved this to be the case, and the TT's are not in the same price bracket individually as a SP10 R. I can't but help feel, I would want to have the R, if it was reliant on other ancillaries to produce the correct working Voltage, having the R work with the supplied Mains Voltage would be my preference.

I find the R to be oddly sensitive to AC, which would seem to fly in the face of reason. Its speed never wavers, of course, but its sound can be subtly more or less tense depending on power cords and especially AC quality. Don’t ask me why. This is not the case with my other two turntables, a Brinkmann Oasis and a Nantais Lenco. I like the R best plugged into the Monarchy. Based on this experience, I’d be hesitant to use a stepdown that doesn’t reconstitute and stabilize the AC. But that’s me. Plenty of people report good results with them on their Technics.

@lewm , I never said he NEEDED anything. Just mentioned an option. And yes, as I said, the "Monarchy thing" is indeed a regenerator....

Wrm, sorry if that appeared harsh. Some who come here for advice will take that advice quite literally. Just wanted to clarify to the OP that he need not spend $600 in order to enjoy his new TT.

to others who seem to believe that using a step down is a compromise, I would point out that it may actually be advantageous. The transformer also isolates other equipment that shares the same AC line from noise that can be put on the AC by the TT motor. And I know of no reason to suggest that a properly sized step down could do any harm. Most of these TT s pull less than 25W. My step downs are rated for 50 or 100W. (I forget which.)

In other words, the step down acts as an isolation transformer, protecting ancillary equipment from EMI that may emanate from the TT motor.

Lewm, thanks for that, and your points are well taken. A step down can certainly do the job, and with the added benefit of isolating from the mains.

A glance at his system page suggested to me that the OP is a pretty sophisticated audiophile. I figured he knew about step downs, which are not esoteric, but perhaps not the Monarchy, which is a pretty nifty gizmo--and cheap for its type-- that not only regenerates the AC but can step it down (and change frequency) if one wishes. Just trying to add to the info pool.

Guys,

Thsnks for the inputs. My current SP10mk3 runs on 100v and I have a stepdown trans (300w) 120v to 100v. But was looking to svoid using this stepdown. You know how it is, too many gadgets, not enough sockets/space etc.

I also have a upgraded PS Audio 300 regenarator but don't use it currently.

I am a fan of the PS Audio regenerators and have no reason to believe the Monarchy is not also good. What I have found is that there is no telling in advance where they’re going to provide an audible improvement. My old PS300 failed and PS Audio doesn’t repair them any longer; instead they offer a favorable trade in. I then acquired their latest low output model( in terms of Watts). I’m using it to supply AC to my Sound Lab 845PXs, and it makes for a nice improvement in sonics. 
 

Ddrive, who upgraded your PS300? Can they do repairs as well?

By the way, ddrive, using a step down doesn’t add any sockets or even require a new power cord. They come with a hard wired AC cord. You plug that in wherever you would plug in your TT. The cord from your TT then plugs into the 100V outlets on the transformer casing. I’m sure you know this, so I’m wondering why you’d phrase it the way you did. Most of all, to anyone with a vintage Japanese TT that requires 100V, don’t plug it in to a 120V outlet and hope for the best. Many were damaged that way back in the day.