Is 15amp 120v all the same? Battery Technology

There was a high end audio battery solution offered for larger systems by Definitive Audio/Living Voice folks in the UK. It was quite elaborate and spendy. I use a line stage that, when operating, runs from lithium batteries, it is built to aeronautics grade, and uses tubes (and is very particular about which vintage/source of 6h30 is inserted).

My approach, without going completely crazy, was to trace back the power to the meter, have the meter pulled to inspect the block, then do a system "audit" with a commercial electrician, from feed lines to service panels, replacing and upgrading what was needed. I've lived in old houses, some going back to the colonial era, and the mishmash of wiring in some of these was frightening. 

My present abode is an 1880s Victorian that was fully restored from the foundation up in 2004. I nonetheless did a thorough system audit, installed a subsystem running 4 gauge through a 10kVA Iso transformer that sits in a large utility box outside, and feeds 4 gauge to a service panel adjacent to my listening area. From there, I run 10 gauge dedicated lines. I did as much as I could to eliminate possible noise issues attributable to the household wiring (when we installed the whole house back up generator, I had that isolated from the audio system so that the auto transfer switch is not even in the same current path as the audio system), but there are limits to what you can do. If the grid is iffy-- and the Texas grid gets strained by heat, demand, and the need for more infrastructure to support the boom here-- there isn't much you can do. People use power conditioners in situations where their household power is questionable. I've tried them in the past and found I could always hear their effects and not for the better. But, the baseline is what your power source sounds like to begin with, assuming you don't have contributing factors in the home wiring. 

I tend to prefer commercial electricians since they are used to demanding situations, including power for stadiums and auditoriums. It may cost a few bucks to have your system gone over by a good electrician but a reputable tradesperson will not try to sell you stuff you don't need. Whole house surge is good too, although it isn't a complete solution. 

Good luck, good listening, and welcome to the forum. 

Bill Hart

Makes sense about good power conditioning and beefy power station.  I never thought about that. Thank you for your well laid out responses. As for the neighborhood, it’s a large planned community 5-30 years old. All power underground. Multiple sq miles. Closes commercial building is about 1+ mile away. Have modern solar power system with no battery backup. Zero issue day or night. I have tried the battery a few times. At most 3 hours.  There may be some unseen risk that the battery can damage the amp so no need to drain battery to zero. So, I’m done messing with the battery hook up.

What surprised me the most was the amp pulled only 53 amps at a fair volume. Harbeth Super HL5plus XD is rated sensitivity is 86dB 6 ohms.  I do not know the relationship between speaker power needs and amp wattage power needs.

So that is a nice amp which I am sure has good power conditioning built in being used with a beefy power station. Probably has a decent inverter.  My sense is you will be fine. The quality of home AC is quite a local issue in any event. Much of the interference comes from within the home but the particulars of your neighborhood (any local arc welding for instance or big motors nearby) can degrade the quality. 

Correction: T + A streamer/CD player model is MP 2500 R

Sorry about the last post. Did not mean to have such a large font and be bold.

Accuphase E-4000 (A/B), T + A MR 2500 R, Harbeth Super HL5 Plus, and a mix bag of cables.  Being an A/B amp, it draws very little power, 54-66 watts, and 4.9-6 amps at 70 dB at 7 feet.  The Yeti, iPhone, and dB app software are not calibrated, nor do they need to be, for this exercise.

The battery serves as a backup in case of a power outage for the fridge and a light or two. The chance of the power going out is rare. Only twice in 5 years. As for testing the battery with an amp, it was more of a curiosity. 

I noticed you are a very new member to the forum  and have not bothered to list the equipment in your system. That will make a big difference in what kind of responses you get to your question. I too have been interested in battery power and have implemented it for both my streamer and dac  in one system I own and feel it works quite well. Powering the amplifier is a heavier lift and the question arises why bother converting the DC power to AC then converting it back to DC inside the amp. All amps use the sea in their inner circuitry. All batteries supply DC and have to be converted to AC using an inverter. The inverter is the source of potential noise pollution.