Interesting way to wire speakers…???

do it, I like the idea!... but the bottom binding posts will squish the wire and the electric juice won't flow to the top binding post or only some of it will and voices will sound choked.
and..Exposing bare copper wire like that may cause a homeless person to break into your house and steal your cables

shhhh...the jumper cable salesmen are not going to want this secret out!

I have done the same thing with my Mapleshade Double Helix cables after struggling for a long time on what to do for jumpers. Made the most sense to me to have matching cable but maybe there is some weird physics going on with this setup, who knows!

The simple solution is to strip away the plastic coating only where it makes contact with the binding posts.

Or cover the bare wires with some Teflon tape or reapply the plastic sheath to cover the exposed wire.

This isn't a bad way to keep the system tuned to the sound of that single type of wire.

I hate what those speaker brass jumpers do,better to make your own with the same speaker wire.Jumpers add spades or banana connectors,hole in binding post may not be large enough for two wires.

Or you could open up the box and attach the internal wires to one pair of binding posts.I did that with a pair of Mirage M3si and enjoyed the sound of my single run of costly speaker wires.

If jumpers are used, then use bare wire not terminations. All spades,
bananas, posts etc... Degrade sound no matter the cost. Better off wiring as
the posters picture shows IMHO. Cleaning the wire regularly is also a good
idea. I don't use any posts or spades etc.., but simply use binding posts
to clamp the wires from my outboard crossover to the speaker cable. Nice
jump in sound quality. I found a very thin layer of WBT solder on the tips of
the exposed wire terminations works great.

It takes good copper quite some time to corrode enough to degrade sound, given a nice, tight crimp. The process can even be slowed further, by the use of a contact enhancer(ie: (https://walkeraudio.com/shop/e-sst-sst-extreme-super-silver-treatment-for-contacts/) or (http://www.vhaudio.com/contacttreatment.html) If the OP's point is better sound; his goal would be better served by the use of straight copper or(better yet silver) jumpers, cleaned with rubbing alcohol or a Caig's product, every few months, before corrosion sets in: (http://www.whatsbestforum.com/showthread.php?1652-Contact-Cleaning-The-Right-Stuff)

Sounds better than oxidized copper however if given the choice...right!?
I have found oxidized copper does have a sound degrading result. Simple point.

WBT's lead free/silver solder(0805) is 95.5% Sn(TIN), 0.7% Cu(copper) and 3.8% Ag(silver) Their lead-based(0800) is all of 4% Ag(silver). I love WBT solders, but not for a coating on terminations.

Use WBT top quality solder with silver and it will sound much better than oxidized copper will once the oxidation sets in.

"Audiophile silver?" What do they mix with the silver, to make that? All pure silver will eventually tarnish(a layer of silver sulfide), unless plated with another metal. Soldering the exposed conductors will defeat your purposes, as most fine solders are composed of over 60% tin, which isn't as good a conductor as copper(copper's six times better).

Not real audiophile silver.

05-13-15: Zd542
I agree. Silver would never tarnish.

Silver will tarnish.

Just tin the wire with solder and you are good to go!

I agree. Silver would never tarnish.

Hi Steve - your photo shows this to be single wired and not bi-wired. Should result in no issues at first, but the bare wire will oxidize fairly quickly and performance will degrade. The solution for that would be to use silver or silver plated wire rather than copper. Have Fun!